Opinion: Multistar ESC's considered harmful

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
Mentor
I've seen quite a few posts the past few days with people listing proposed parts lists and the multistar ESC's keep coming up. I can see why, they say "multi" right in the name and the marketing talk from HK sure makes them sound like they're designed for multirotor use.

But I'm going to pull up an OLD meme and try to warn people away from them.

When I built my quad I picked the 10A multistars because they were cheap and claimed to be designed for multirotor use. It also looked like they were on at least one of the quads in the FT knuckle video so I figured they must work fairly well on a multirotor and were worth giving a try. I also saw reports that they probably could be flashed with SimonK so I figured even if they didn't work well I could always reflash them and be good.

Don't make my mistake!

The stock firmware is not great at all. It has a slower PWM rate than the stock Blue series, it has no ability to program throttle end points, and even changing the other settings the instructions provided with them don't seem to actually work as intended. But worst of all is they can stall. If the motor encounters any resistance at all it will stall and you won't be able to restart until throttling all the way down.

I run MultiWii on my quad so when I arm it starts the props spinning at a slow idle speed. At this low speed any contact with the props, motor bell or spinner will likely stall the motor. Lightly tapping the spinner is enough. And if I set my quad in tallish grass - the impact of the props against the blades of grass is enough to stall them. I then have to disarm and rearm to get the ESC's to respond again. Thankfully this never happened to me in the air...but I have heard anecdotal reports from other people who tried the multistars that it has happened to them in the air when doing extreme maneuvers.

But they're cheap, and you can flash them! Well....The 10a's are all but impossible to flash. I tried. Theoretically its possible. But they use an ultra tiny leadless MLF package chip which is too small to use a "socket tool" on and they don't have pads for programming. Maybe with a stereo microscope and ultra fine point soldering iron and the hands of a surgeon it's possible...but with my meager magnification and merely fine pointed soldering iron (which I do most SMT parts with no complaints) it was impossible. The lead free solder they use is just ridiculously hard to remelt and attach a tiny tiny wire too. (If you do try I found that 80 pin IDE cables have just about the perfect size wire to use.)

The 20a's are flashable with a socket tool, and the 30a's and up do have programming pads. So they can be flashed with SimonK - BUT. They're still a poor choice because:

1) They use the kda.hex version of simonk - because of the way the hardware is designed on these even if you flash them with the simonk bootloader you can't reflash them over the servo wire.

2) They don't work well at high refresh rates and the reports I've seen of people who have successfully flashed them have had to lower the refresh rate to get them to work - minimizing one of the big benefits of simonk.

3) Other than the 45a version they're all P/N FET designs which are inherently less efficient than all N FET designs.

Considering all that there are other options such as the HK Blue's and the cheap F20/F30 ESC's which are can be reflashed through the servo wire, are all N FET designs, work great at high refresh rates and in some cases are actually cheaper than the Multistars.

Or if you're not into flashing ESC's yourself there's the outstanding AFRO's and a number of other sources for pre-flashed simonK ESC's.

Don't make the mistake I did and fall for the multistar marketing hype. The difference simonk makes is astounding and there's just no comparison between it and the multistars. If you already have them - flashing is an option. If not put your money towards better ESC's than the multistars.
 

Shep_pard

Junior Member
Hey jhitesma,
thanks for the warning, because I use them(15amp) and have a few trouble with them, even after flashing them with SimonK.
Btw it is possible to flash them if you have a thin soldering tip and steady fingers :)

Could you recommend the Turnigy Plush for Multicopters? I have a few of them but not quite enough for my Hex, or should I get ones you recommend.
 

Cyberdactyl

Misfit Multirotor Monkey
Although it's an understatement for most who read this forum, one person who is pretty well known in the DYI multirotor community is rcexplorer. A couple years ago, I read through all his builds before I even ordered parts. Also an understatement, is my suggestion of buying the HK F-20 and F-30 ESCs. However, I certainly cannot claim that as 'my discovery'. Other component and design suggestions by David have been innovative and have become 'mainstream' build techniques, such as the suspended undercarriage camera platform, the pivoting tri booms, using DT750's, etc.

Now that I understand and can appreciate the confusion and frustration new people coming into the multirotor community go through, I probably wouldn't have suggested DT750, because of all the 'gotchas' that are associated with the motor, even though it is a rugged workhorse when modded correctly.

But as David recommends, the F-20s are pretty much the best budget ESC IF you're going to flash the ESCs yourself.
 

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
Mentor
Hey jhitesma,
thanks for the warning, because I use them(15amp) and have a few trouble with them, even after flashing them with SimonK.
Btw it is possible to flash them if you have a thin soldering tip and steady fingers :)

Could you recommend the Turnigy Plush for Multicopters? I have a few of them but not quite enough for my Hex, or should I get ones you recommend.

The 15A's look like (photo here from the simonk spreadsheet here) the they use the TSOP sized version of the chip that's used on the 20a's and others - so the socket tool would work on them and personally I'd say yes you could do it with steady fingers and probably a bit of magnification (one thing I've done in the past for magnification is use a webcam with a cheap loupe over the lens.

DSCN2519-L.jpg
(That's just using the built in software "magnification" of the cheapest webcam I could find about 10 years ago. The pads I'm focused on are from a TQFP package with leads about the same size or smaller as the ones on the processor on a TSOP ESC processor.)

(few more shots of my SMT soldering setup and my various iron tips under magnification here: http://www.dunephotos.com/Electronics/SDR/Janus-Construction/2946190_RfJmwN#!i=159086500&k=BhfDkxj)

Instead of the webcam I now use a cheap desk magnifier with built in light that I picked up for $10 at a Fry's electronics a few years ago. It doesn't magnify quite as much but since it doesn't have the lag of the webcam it's MUCH easier to work with.

As for the Plush's...I haven't tried them for multi use. I do have one I use in one of my swappable pods but that's the only experience I have with them. I have heard that they've switched from the AVR to a different chip so simonk doesn't run on all of them now - but blheli does.

But like I said in my first post and Cyberdactyl echoed I'd just go with the F20's if I was going to flash my own ESC's again. They're good hardware, easy to flash and one of the cheapest options. The only downside I can think of to them is that they seem to be out of stock right now :D
 

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
Mentor
Oh and as for flashing the 10a's...here's why it's virtually impossible:

escs.jpg

That's a 20A HK blue on the left and a 10A multistar on the right. Circled in red are the processors. Pinouts are the same but the package on the chip used on the 10A is MUCH smaller! Those tiny beads of solder on the edges are just way too small to solder anything to. I tried making my own socket tool to fit...but couldn't come up with anything precise enough to hold the wires in the right spots.
 

Shufty

Senior Member
+1 for the Afro's, I use them on my bat bone, they work great and are really easy to flash with the Afro USB dongle (through the servo cable). If you are buy them, definitely make sure to get the USB dongle too, it's only a couple bucks extra.
 

cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding face plant!
Mentor
+ 1 for the iPeaka ESCs from Altitude. Pre-flashed with Simon K and work right out of the static bag...
 

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
Mentor
I have no experience with the RTFQ F20A ESCs, but they sound almost too good to be true. . . in that they are actually CHEAPER than HK F20s, but come flashed with simonK.

That board layout looks really clean. I seriously considered getting ESC's from him but last time I looked the only ones he had that were cheaper didn't have BEC's and the way my quad is setup I need multiple ESC's right now. I thought about going with the optos and then rewiring my quad to run off a single sbec/ubec...but decided I was too lazy to save money that way :)

Don't know if I missed those or if he added them since I checked. I'm seriously considering a FC from RTFQ for my next quad and now I've got those on my want list as well....
 

Cyberdactyl

Misfit Multirotor Monkey
That board layout looks really clean.

Yes, it appears they may be the same F20 and 30 HK offers. RTFQ may be purchasing them from the same source.

Caveat for anyone buying the "naked" version. The photo shows them with the motor and power wires attached. The naked version does not have the wiring.

Here's what the purchase would look like. . . with a heat sink plate of course.

http://s4e3c56b671b69.img.gostorego...d6e5fb8d27136e95/1/-/1-21-2014_8-47-33_am.jpg
 
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crlock

Senior Member
Hey jhitesma,
thanks for the warning, because I use them(15amp) and have a few trouble with them, even after flashing them with SimonK.
Btw it is possible to flash them if you have a thin soldering tip and steady fingers :)

Could you recommend the Turnigy Plush for Multicopters? I have a few of them but not quite enough for my Hex, or should I get ones you recommend.

I fly with the turnigy Plush 18, with 800kv motors swinging 11x4,7 props. They are rock solid (for my taste at least) no reflashing or anything and they perform like champs. In one afternoon, i've put seven 3S 2200 and one 4S 2200 packs, one after the other with barely 30 seconds of rest between the packs and those babies take it like a baus. They do get pretty hot, i would say above 45°C but still work awesome. So yeah, i would reccomend them

Cheers
 

Shep_pard

Junior Member
jhitesma, thank you for your answer,
I will for now just try the Plush. A friend of mine has them on his quad and the handle quite nicely.
And if not I still can get the F20 afterwards.
Shep_pard
 

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
Mentor
Yes, it appears they may be the same F20 and 30 HK offers. RTFQ may be purchasing them from the same source.

The layout looks the same...but the build quality looks a step up. Of course it's hard to judge from photos and that's all I have to go on for now...but the F20 photos I've seen parts aren't well aligned, solder looks greyish and lumpy and extends over the heavy power traces on the FET side of the board. The RTFQ version the parts look more like they were done by machine than hand, the solder joints look clean and shiny as well as smoother and more controlled - and the solder is confined to where it's needed and not spread across the bare traces as much.

Probably just cloned the F20's and is assembling them in a shop that pays a little bit more attention to detail from what I can see.
 

Craftydan

Hostage Taker of Quads
Staff member
Moderator
Mentor
Or it's the same factory but one vendor orders from the "A" quality batches, and another from the "B" quality batches. The more I dig into the ESC's the more I realize there's not all that many unique builds (a few dozen or so, including all the sizes, it seems to me), and I imagine the big diffence between identical ESCs is in the QA.

Also keep in mind, If I'm going snap a picture of a bare board for my store, am I going to pick a random product off the stack, or the first really nice one I see in the batch?

In all fairness to HK, I've stripped and flashed several of the F-20A's and while some didn't look spiffy-polished, none of them looked all that bad.
 

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
Mentor
Great points Dan!

And yeah, the range of "choices" and prices in ESC's shocks me considering how little difference there really is between them. When I first got into brushless I was shocked at the range of ESC options and trying to figure out what the differences were that caused such price variation.

The more experience I gain the more the big difference seems to be marketing more than anything else.

There do seem to be people working on some actually different designs for ESC's:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2083052
http://autoquad.org/esc32/
http://witespyquad.gostorego.com/rtf32.html

But when it comes down to it there are only so many ways to do what an ESC does and for the majority of flyers (especially those starting out) there's really no point in spending more than necessary.

The one exception to that rule is I would say the Afro's and other SimonK pre-flashed options are worth a little more for those who don't want to do their own flashing. Though personally I can't justify the extra cost and if I did I'd want to make sure I was buying them from a source that actually gives some of that extra cost back to the developers even if they aren't required to.