Possibe Sticky for this Multirotor Page

FinalGlideAus

terrorizing squirrels
I was originally writing an article for the multirotor newbies to help them out but then thought that this might be useful as a sticky for the top of the multirotor forum. It may help to reduce the same questions being asked over and over and may just stop some from making a mistake in the first place. I'll post my raw article piece below for you to comment. Anyway, what do you think Craftydan? As a moderator, would you want something like this heading this forum? Input Welcome. Especially if I have anything wrong. Have I missed anything important?

Multirotor Top Tips

Learning to fly a multirotor can be a fun experience if done correctly but can be rather frustrating if done the hard way. These Top Tips have been compiled from the lessons learned by others so you won’t have to learn the hard way. Following these tips does not guarantee a smooth progression as not following them does not guarantee a disastrous experience but rather the odds are in your favour if you don’t re-learn others mistakes.

1: Expect a steep learning curve.
If you have no previous RC experience expect a steeper learning curve. This is not to say you will fail, but rather expect things to progress slower. Multirotors can be harder to fly than RC planes due to their inherent instability and having no previous RC knowledge can make things harder. If you know someone who can be a benefit then ask for their help.

2: Expect to crash.
This is a given. You WILL crash. You WILL break things. How much it costs to fix and how often is up to the multirotor you buy and the decisions you make as you learn.

3: Study Study Study
There is HEAPS of info on the internet and in forums like here at FliteTest so spend you’re time while deciding what to buy and soak up what info you can while you wait for your parts to arrive. Hopefully doing this you will have already helped to answer the inevitable questions you will have when it comes time to build and fly.

3: Select a proven design and motor setup.
Although scratch building can be rewarding, there are so many variables that go into a multirotor that for your first one it is best to go with a proven design. This also goes for the motor/prop choice. Getting the wrong setup can be frustrating and expensive. Choose either a setup recommended by the kit manufacturer or go with a setup many others have proven to be a good choice for your multirotor.

4: Forget about a 4S battery for now.
4S battery powered multirotors are for the experts. 3S battery setups are for everyone else.

5: Leave the GoPro and FPV gear on the work bench for now.
Yes! I’m talking to you...
I know you’ve seen all those amazing video’s posted on YouTube but forget about that for now. Learn to fly first, then strap on the camera. Learn to crawl before you walk. Doing so will probably save you from breaking your FPV gear and GoPro before you get to really use it.

6: Keep it simple, keep it light.
The more simple and light it is, the less likely you will crash it and the more likely it will come out unscathed when you do. Following the above tips will help ensure this. Right now you do not not need the complication of GPS and Return to Land functions etc.

7: Balance your props and motors
Vibration is the enemy of a multirotor. It adversely effects the flight controllers ability to fly and can cause general badness on a multirotor. The link below shows clearly how to balance a propeller.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2OwSc35Ozc
The next link shows how to balance a motor using an Iphone Vibration App.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RItntpZZH4g
The next link shows how to balance a motor using a mirror if you don’t want to use an Iphone.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtYxYMczkvg

8: Flash Your KK2 (or KK2.1)
If using these popular Flight Controller boards the stock Firmware that comes on these is pretty ordinary. Some people have a nightmare trying to fly with it while some not so much. Either way, there is a noticeable improvement when you do. Although everyone has they’re own favourite firmware version, a beginner won’t go wrong with Firmware version “Steveis 1.6” for the KK2 and Firmware version “Steveis 1.12S1 Beginner” for the KK2.1. To do this you will need a flashing tool like the “USBasp” flash tool in the link below. This link also shows you the steps involved in flashing your KK2/KK2.1 with your desired Firmware version. These flash tools can be found on Ebay as well as Hobbyking among other places very cheaply.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_oXzVEdjuTE
Some people have found they need to do a factory reset in the KK2/KK2.1 menu after updating the firmware if they have problems which rectifies things.

9: Fixing a tricopter with a KK2/KK2.1 that is spinning out of control
A common fix to a tricopter that does this is the servo value needs to be changed in the KK2/KK2.1 mixer editor on the menu screen. Scroll down and select the “mixer editor” and in the top right of the screen select “CH:1” (channel 1) and change to “CH:4” (Channel 4). Now select “Rudder” on the screen and change the number from 100 to -100. The problem should be fixed. Some servo’s require 100 value and some require -100.

10: Leave your Flight Controller flight settings and radio settings alone.
If you have built your multirotor well and setup your flight controller properly with the right Firmware it should fly pretty good right out of the box. If that is the case then don’t be tempted to fiddle with it. You don’t yet have the skills to know how to adjust things. Learn the basics of hovering first and then start adjusting things. Fiddling with the settings early on will most likely end up with the multirotor flying worse and harder to fly. If you must, then consult the experts on the forums first. A video showing the symptoms will help others resolve the issue.

11: Time to hover so take things slowly
Find a nice grassy and open area to start with little to no wind preferred. Your concrete driveway is NOT a suitable place to learn to fly a multirotor. The hard driveway, your garage door, your boundary fence or neighbors roof will confirm this.

Start by hovering into wind with the multirotor’s tail facing you. It may sound boring but keep doing this until you get confident at it. Maybe try going forward and back or maybe in a little wind but keep the tail facing you and don’t go too high. Once you’ve mastered that then try a hover with the multirotor sideways to you. This may not seem like much but you need to learn to hover at different angles before you can fly circuits. Once again try forwards and backwards and maybe side to side but not too high. Holding the hover in some wind will confirm your getting good at it.

Now your ready for some gentle circuits. Try to do figure eight patterns so all your turns are away from you. Lastly you need to master the nose in hover. With the multirotors nose facing you, your controls are backwards and things get confusing very easily. Practice practice practice and some patience will get you where you want to be.

12: Adjusting P and I gains.
Once you have the hang of flying your multirotor you may want to play with your P and I gains. The link below explains how to set them. Remember that the values are different between firmware versions and different multirotors so don’t get fixated on the numbers unless the multirotor matches yours in all aspects.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=82naZVGX3yY
The link below explains KK2/KK2.1 auto level setup.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f0Bh3fMGHbM

13: Stick Scaling, Radio Dual Rates and Expo.
Now you can play with these fun things. Stick Scaling and Dual Rates are basically the same thing but stick scaling is what is adjusted on the multirotor in the Flight Control board. Dual Rates are adjusted in transmitter and can have different settings on a switch that can be changed mid flight to increase or decrease control response. When you increase either the stick scaling or dual rates the multicopter will then become more twitchy. Expo is then programmed into the radio to “numb” the centre of the controls down while still giving you full control at the extremities. As you increase the Stick scaling/Dual Rates, you generally increase the expo but beware that having too much expo can be worse than none at all. It is all a fine balance. The link below explains Dual Rates and Expo. Skip forward to the 11minute mark in the movie.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jBNz0DBY3w#t=36
The link below talks about Stick Scaling.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99ItmKr_HJ4



By now you’ve probably got enough experience to do things yourself and probably have quite a bit of knowledge so why don’t you stay on the forum and help out some of the new pilots on here going through the same things you have had to overcome to make it this far.

Happy flying.
 

eagle4

Member
Great Article mate. Although one suggestion would be to get the site's name correct ;) its Flitetest not TestFlite.

3: Study Study Study
There is HEAPS of info on the internet and in forums like here at FliteTest so spend you’re time while deciding what to buy and soak up what info you can while you wait for your parts to arrive. Hopefully doing this you will have already helped to answer the inevitable questions you will have when it comes time to build and fly.
 

Craftydan

Hostage Taker of Quads
Staff member
Moderator
Mentor
FGA,

Might I suggest . . .

Keep this guy up for a while, but collect comments, edit and refine the first post. (I haven't taken the time yet to read it, but the bullet points look good -- perhaps more comments later).

In about a week or so, if you've got it refined and any issues are down to quibbles, Drop me a PM, and I'll sticky it and rename the thread (I take suggestions for names).

a good FAQ thread that hits the general high points is a good Idea -- This isn't the first attempt at it, but I gotta say the boldest attempt at making it sticky ;)
 

Mustang7302

Senior Member
A sticky in the forum section is not a bad idea, to an extent. Content like this should be easy to find and not overwhelming to read and digest. Additionally, it should be kept clean of chatter so content isn't spread out page after page hunting for the little nuggets of information.

The single biggest recommendation I can think of is to get a micro quad to learn on while you're studying up on building bigger multirotors. Something like a Nano QX has a low price of entry to get immediate satisfaction while being intrigued by the hobby, is small enough to not hurt anything or itself, and flies extremely well even in mild wind outside.

I suggest keeping topics like flashing or advanced flight controller configuration, as seen below in points 8 and 9, out of a thread like this. These are topics to cover later, after someone has learned basics like how to build one of these rigs.

8: Flash Your KK2 (or KK2.1)
If using these popular Flight Controller boards the stock Firmware that comes on these is pretty ordinary. Some people have a nightmare trying to fly with it while some not so much. Either way, there is a noticeable improvement when you do. Although everyone has they’re own favourite firmware version, a beginner won’t go wrong with Firmware version “Steveis 1.6” for the KK2 and Firmware version “Steveis 1.12S1 Beginner” for the KK2.1. To do this you will need a flashing tool like the “USBasp” flash tool in the link below. This link also shows you the steps involved in flashing your KK2/KK2.1 with your desired Firmware version. These flash tools can be found on Ebay as well as Hobbyking among other places very cheaply.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_oXzVEdjuTE
Some people have found they need to do a factory reset in the KK2/KK2.1 menu after updating the firmware if they have problems which rectifies things.

9: Fixing a tricopter with a KK2/KK2.1 that is spinning out of control
A common fix to a tricopter that does this is the servo value needs to be changed in the KK2/KK2.1 mixer editor on the menu screen. Scroll down and select the “mixer editor” and in the top right of the screen select “CH:1” (channel 1) and change to “CH:4” (Channel 4). Now select “Rudder” on the screen and change the number from 100 to -100. The problem should be fixed. Some servo’s require 100 value and some require -100.

Just like suggesting different firmware for a KK2/2.1 might become out of date, motor/prop/esc/battery combos may also become out of date to an extent (look at the recommended hardware on the FT store). Still, there is a lot of merit in having some power plant setup recommendations available. These recommendations should be tailored around the all up weight range, as well as common frames and/or additional payload.
 

Craftydan

Hostage Taker of Quads
Staff member
Moderator
Mentor
Anyway, what do you think Craftydan?

Ok, well that was eerie -- I hadn't read this before my previous speed-read-comment and had no idea you'd called me out. :eek: Just spooky ;)

You've hopefully seen my comments above.

1: Expect a steep learning curve.

There's a big differnce between the "building" and "flying" learning curves, and doing *both* at the same time is quite a bit diffrent than buying an airhog quad and landing it on the celing . . . not sure if it needs to be mentioned here or pulled into a seperate thread with links between.

I know you discuss this later, but even building from a kit/ARF as opposed to an RTF/BNF model is a differnt creature.

2: Expect to crash.

Great point. possibly mention "consider the cost of spares in the total cost of any model and plan on buying spares with the model if your Local Hobby Shop (LHS) doesn't carry the parts, or isn't very local"

3: Study Study Study

Quibble: we're creating this to head off the first level of FAQs (hopefully it will), but don't want to RTFM anyone in the FAQ's either -- not what we're about. Someone gets that vibe they're likely to shy away from asking something.

It's a quibble because I don't know how to better say "run a search first ya' lazy bum!" with "but feel free to ask stupid questions" all while encouraging and not insulting. :p (and yes, I *will* be deleting this before it get's stickyed ;) )

3: Select a proven design and motor setup.

3 again? must be an important number ;)

I'll sorta echo Mustang -- might want to add a comment (or point 3.a) of "start small" -- a stable 180 size or smaller won't injure anyone or break much more than itself.

I'd hesitate to publish model names becasue that will get dated *quickly* -- the NanoQx is a nice quad, but what will repace it? Will Wakera's or Hubsan's next quad be just as nice at half the cost? DJI make a micro quad under $300? (ok the last one just ain't gonna happen -- it would cost way more)

4: Forget about a 4S battery for now.

5: Leave the GoPro and FPV gear on the work bench for now.

Good points . . . but perhaps consolidate into one? "Leave the big batteries/GoPro/Gimbal/FPV/payloads on the bench where it can't be broken -- learn to fly first". perhaps move the training tips up closer to this? move this down?

BTW, I didn't learn on 3S . . . I leaned on 1S, and there are a *small* number of 2S quads out there . . . But agreed -- don't go for a professional grade rig when you're trying to learn orentation.

Might also want to add a "what I need to learn before I fly the "good stuff" " as a sub point -- keeping orentaion and instinctive control.

6: Keep it simple, keep it light.

Perhaps two additional points here (feel free to edit or comment)?

- stay close . . . -- don't try to fly too high or get too far while you're learning. Distance is the enemy of orentation, and you need to learn that quickly.

- . . . but in a big aera. -- Find out how much space youll need to fly your sized model and double it . . . then double it again. Rotorcraft really need area when you make mistakes. In fixed wing they talk about the number of mistakes high -- how many sequential mistakes can you make from an altitude before it will crash -- in multirotors, usually you'll run out of lateral distance before you can't recover it.

not sure how this meshes with your other training tips . . . lots of overlap, and the order of the tips might become a bit wonky . . .

8: Flash Your KK2 (or KK2.1)

9: Fixing a tricopter with a KK2/KK2.1 that is spinning out of control

While it's a pretty common FAQ . . . I'd avoid the board refernces for the same reason as avoiding naming quads.

Posibly a more generic comment of "make sure your flight control board is up to date with the latest stable build" -- a good general suggestion.

Might also be an appropreate place for "why my kitbuilt/scratchbuilt multirotor flips out on takeoff" list . . . I've seen them around, but don't trust myself to hit them all off the top of my head.


perhaps someone else would post such a list? Any of you guys have one handy?


10: Leave your Flight Controller flight settings and radio settings alone.

Not sure I agree with this. I know what you're getting at, but even good ROM's can be put on a frame the stock settigns won't like. They can still be tuned, but they'll still need it out of the box. (one more argument for a RTF/BNF above a ARF)

Also, we want to encourage people to ask if this doesn't answer their question or they don't understand -- I get what you're saying, but the last sentance implies we're unapproachable, and shouldn't be bothered by trivial things. Not true -- we love trivia ;)

12: Adjusting P and I gains.

Two comments
- MANY other boards have PID controllers. the KK2 is fairly unique in it lacks the Differntial loop.

- Haven't watched the videos, but expect you've picked good ones -- perhaps find one a little less board centric? the procedures for hand-tuning a PID are pretty much universal. Sorry, wish I had one to suggest.



Overall, looks like you've hit the high points for an "First steps into the world of multirotors" (or similar), and done a fairly good job to boot. Don't take my long list of comments as "I think you've done poorly" -- Not so! I think this is an excellent list, but if it goes to a sticky, we want take the time to polish it.



general comments --

Might want to end with a "links" section, or if you create a new thread out of this, make it post #2 -- Cyber's suggestion would go nicely in there. These lists can become quite large but can be helpful for deeper topics or issues specific to poular products. I'd also expect this to be a "living" portion of this thread. Are you willing to keep this up to date(ish)?

BTW, someone else did a thread similar to this recently . . . I can't find the link ATM. (Someone else have the link handy?). If someone digs it up, might be good to look over that one too. Possibly, if the author is still hanging around, hopefully they'll want to merge the info/ideas/tips, or help create a matched pair of "begin flying" and "begin building" threads -- Related topics, but seperate issues.

As I mentioned before, FAQ's are to head off simple questions, but it's the simple questions that draw some poeple into discussions and more involvment. As you're reviewing what you wrote and looking at comments, keep that in mind. A good tone to shoot for is "we want to quickly answer the obvious here, and hope you'll dig deeper, but please ask the question if it doesn't make sense". Other than a few points, what you've written already leans this way. I say this because quite a few of us who have stuck around here, have been drawn into the forum this way -- answering questions in a good way is just as much recruting as it's lending a hand ;)


Finally, everything I've said is up for discussion -- get two pilots in a room you'll have three opinions -- but I hope others will continue to help refine this, since posting something up top would reflect on the community as a whole.
 

Hionimi

Sky Pirate
Cool guide. Might I also suggest considering the option to flash the ESCs. I know not all ESCs need it, but some have a nasty voltage cut-off, especially the ones not really meant for multirotors.

2: Expect to crash.
This is a given. You WILL crash. You WILL break things. How much it costs to fix and how often is up to the multirotor you buy and the decisions you make as you learn.

Darn, missed this step. :p

Though, admittingly, I never did anything too crazy that challenged the laws of physics with my multicopter... :rolleyes:
 

FinalGlideAus

terrorizing squirrels
Thanks for the response so far guys. It just shows how late I was up last night finishing it since I called this place TestFlite LOL!

Happy for all feedback and I'll have a go at implementing the input shortly although I have only skimmed through it so far being at work. The only reason I'm trying this is because of the friendly nature of the FliteTest forum. I wouldn't dare do this on RCgroups. This is thanks to the people on here and our friendly carebears like you Craftydan :).

Keep the feedback coming and I'm sure we'll come up with a good generic sticky post.
 

Balu

Lurker
Staff member
Admin
Moderator
I've just updated my "A beginners guide to multirotors (written by a beginner)" posts that have more comprehensive, but also more basic information on what I am learning right now on my way to building my first multirotor.

Perhaps we can combine these two somehow? Yours are more like short "pro tipps", while I try to go more into detail - as far as a newbie like me can ;)

Balu
 

FlyingMonkey

Bought Another Trailer
Staff member
Admin
I have missed you FM. I have even missed Patrick (EST). :p

Thurmond

Not to continue in this hijacking of the thread (of course if this makes sticky, these posts will all go away…) but thanks. I never left, I just didn't post as much.
 

Tritium

Amateur Extra Class K5TWM
Back on topic:

Unless you like to spend lots of money get a small 1S quad and when you can fly (without crashing) it blindfolded on a night of a new moon :rolleyes:, THEN, you are ready for advancement to a "bigger, better" model.;)

2S battery quads can be quite responsive and even acrobatic. :eek:

Don't leave off the camera till you learn to fly well, just use a cheap keychain camera so others can enjoy the carnage of the crash.:p

Thurmond