mjmccarron
Member
I use Elmers Repositionable glue stick to stick the plan to the foam board then cut it out. Once you're done, just peel the plan off and your done.
Printing and Transferring Plans
- Thread starter Phil Mitchell
- Start date
brettp2004
New member
For what it's worth, I thought I'd share how I transfer plans to DTFB. First, I found a local printing shop that will print the plans for usually less than $10US, never more than $15. And thats for all sheets, for example the storch was 3 sheets and only cost me $8. Then, I cut the plans out of the paper with a exacto knife. I also cut little squares in the corners of things like servo locations, aileron lines and things like that. Then I lay the paper on the DTFB (I don't even tape it) and make marks were all the angles are for straight lines. If its an arc or curve I'll just trace around the paper, but if it's straight lines I just mark the beginning and end. Then I go through with a ruler and connect the dots. This way might have an extra step or two but it gives great results, and cutting the plans out of the paper only takes about five or ten minutes. Hope this helps someone. Look for a local printing shop!
I did something similar to brettp2004, took the full size plans to local print shop and cut them out to use as a traceable template on the foam board. But before cutting out the plans, I placed clear packing tape over the smaller cut outs, like the servo openings, tab slots, and the hole locations for the skewers. This seems to make the templates a little tougher so they can be reused over time to make replacement parts for when I eventually crash the plane beyond repair.
SnowRocker88
Amateur pilot and builder
For transferring plans I just cut out my profiles oversized (just so they're easier to handle separate instead of one big sheet) and trace the lines. So I'm not actually putting ink on the foam, just making a shallow crease that I can trace later for cut lines and just crease a little more if they're crease lines.
Mostly Harmless
Member
I've had success with both methods (tracing around the cut out paper pattern and transferring via a pin poked through the pattern).
I haven't tried one of these, but I wonder if it'd work... http://www.fashionsewingblog.com/tracing-wheel
These are used to transfer sewing patterns to cloth -- might work for foam board. Has anyone tried this?
I haven't tried one of these, but I wonder if it'd work... http://www.fashionsewingblog.com/tracing-wheel
These are used to transfer sewing patterns to cloth -- might work for foam board. Has anyone tried this?
brettp2004
New member
I've used something similar on a pumpkin... You could probably find one really cheap right now in the Halloween section of most stores. They are usually a little bit smaller than that one so they won't puncture the paper on the foam board.
Using a projector to transfer plans.
I have an ancient projector, a Dell MP1100 ($12.00 on kbids.com). I hooked it to a pc, and projected the FT spitfire against the wall. Using the inch marks at the top, I was able to check the scale by placing a ruler in the projection and adjusting the image accordingly. I checked that the projection was square, by measuring the width at the top, bottom and diagonally. Once the image was stable and square I just used masking tape to fix the foam to the wall. From there it is just a matter of standing to the side with a pencil and tracing the writing on the wall.
I have an ancient projector, a Dell MP1100 ($12.00 on kbids.com). I hooked it to a pc, and projected the FT spitfire against the wall. Using the inch marks at the top, I was able to check the scale by placing a ruler in the projection and adjusting the image accordingly. I checked that the projection was square, by measuring the width at the top, bottom and diagonally. Once the image was stable and square I just used masking tape to fix the foam to the wall. From there it is just a matter of standing to the side with a pencil and tracing the writing on the wall.
HilldaFlyer
Well-known member
Plan Printing and Transfer Tips
There have been a lot of great suggestions in this thread. At some point, someone should recap all the ideas. The following is my method and tips for printing and transferring FT Plans.
Printing plans
I print 2 copies of the untiled plans as a poster. I use Adobe Illustrator, so I use the tools in its menu to produce cut marks etc. on 11x17 paper. The free Adobe Reader also prints posters at 100%. The reason for 2 copies is so I can tape together the pieces of paper that go together in order to produce a single part. For example, a single sheet of paper may have a portion of a wing and a fuselage. I use one copy for the wing and another for the fuselage. This way I don't have to align 12 or more pages. I found it very difficult to keep the paper aligned when taping them in big sheets - there were always bulges and wrinkles.
Transferring Plans
For most of the FT plans, I cut them out leaving about 2 cm margin. Then I remove little segments (triangles) of paper to indicate where the line or corner is. This is similar to poking a hole. I tape the plan to the foam in two or more places to hold it from shifting, and then I mark with colored pens where the lines should go. This is great for the straight lines, but a little more difficult for the curvy pieces. For the curves, I cut a slot in the paper plans with a blade leaving an uncut portion of the line every inch or so (holds the slot to form). Then I trace in the slot with a pencil.
Using this template method, rather than making a right and a left wing plan, you need only one. To make the opposite (mirror) wing, simply flip the template over. Symmetry is maintained between the two wing halves, even if the template isn't perfect.
Cutting Out Parts
I remove the paper plans from the foam board and cut between all the marks. The curves have a pencil line to follow freehand. For score cutting I use a retractable break off utility knife set so it cuts only half way through the foam and I use a metal ruler as a guide.
There have been a lot of great suggestions in this thread. At some point, someone should recap all the ideas. The following is my method and tips for printing and transferring FT Plans.
Printing plans
I print 2 copies of the untiled plans as a poster. I use Adobe Illustrator, so I use the tools in its menu to produce cut marks etc. on 11x17 paper. The free Adobe Reader also prints posters at 100%. The reason for 2 copies is so I can tape together the pieces of paper that go together in order to produce a single part. For example, a single sheet of paper may have a portion of a wing and a fuselage. I use one copy for the wing and another for the fuselage. This way I don't have to align 12 or more pages. I found it very difficult to keep the paper aligned when taping them in big sheets - there were always bulges and wrinkles.
Transferring Plans
For most of the FT plans, I cut them out leaving about 2 cm margin. Then I remove little segments (triangles) of paper to indicate where the line or corner is. This is similar to poking a hole. I tape the plan to the foam in two or more places to hold it from shifting, and then I mark with colored pens where the lines should go. This is great for the straight lines, but a little more difficult for the curvy pieces. For the curves, I cut a slot in the paper plans with a blade leaving an uncut portion of the line every inch or so (holds the slot to form). Then I trace in the slot with a pencil.
Using this template method, rather than making a right and a left wing plan, you need only one. To make the opposite (mirror) wing, simply flip the template over. Symmetry is maintained between the two wing halves, even if the template isn't perfect.
Cutting Out Parts
I remove the paper plans from the foam board and cut between all the marks. The curves have a pencil line to follow freehand. For score cutting I use a retractable break off utility knife set so it cuts only half way through the foam and I use a metal ruler as a guide.
I didn't see anyone post the method I use for cutting out parts (though I'm only 2-1/2 planes into this hobby, so maybe there is a downside I haven't encountered yet.
Just print the plans on cardstock, and cut out all the parts, including the servo and access holes.
Tape the cardstock pattens directly to the foam along the edges. 4-6 pieces of tape work for all but the most complicated parts.
Using an x-acto knife cut along the cardstock pattern. Two passes usually will cut through the foam. The knife easily follows the cardstock pattern, especially the curves. Work from the inside out, cutting out interior holes before the outline, and leave the taped spots to be cut out last. Half the tape will be left on the template, and the other half will be left on the waste foam outside the part.
For the short 50% score lines, just cut through the pattern and partway into the foam. For the longer ones just put a small nick through the pattern at both ends and complete the cut with a ruler after removing the pattern. Also, to easily align the ruler with the score line, put your knife into the nick at one end, push the ruler against it, and then position the other end at the second nick, so you don't have to work so hard to get both ends at once.
Just print the plans on cardstock, and cut out all the parts, including the servo and access holes.
Tape the cardstock pattens directly to the foam along the edges. 4-6 pieces of tape work for all but the most complicated parts.
Using an x-acto knife cut along the cardstock pattern. Two passes usually will cut through the foam. The knife easily follows the cardstock pattern, especially the curves. Work from the inside out, cutting out interior holes before the outline, and leave the taped spots to be cut out last. Half the tape will be left on the template, and the other half will be left on the waste foam outside the part.
For the short 50% score lines, just cut through the pattern and partway into the foam. For the longer ones just put a small nick through the pattern at both ends and complete the cut with a ruler after removing the pattern. Also, to easily align the ruler with the score line, put your knife into the nick at one end, push the ruler against it, and then position the other end at the second nick, so you don't have to work so hard to get both ends at once.
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PHugger
Church Meal Expert
I'm able to print out full sized plans on very heavy paper stock. After cutting out the pieces I can easily trace around them with a pencil. A few bits of masking tape hold it in place long enough to complete.
My problem is how to store the patterns. Currently I place them between sheets of DTF. There must be a more elegant way to store them. I want them flat - a large envelope (the size of a DTF board) would be great. The way mine are stored now I just know I'm going to lose something. It seems like something an illustrator or architect would need.
For doing the half depth cuts I use this -
(it slides along my straight edge)
Best regards,
PCH
My problem is how to store the patterns. Currently I place them between sheets of DTF. There must be a more elegant way to store them. I want them flat - a large envelope (the size of a DTF board) would be great. The way mine are stored now I just know I'm going to lose something. It seems like something an illustrator or architect would need.
For doing the half depth cuts I use this -
(it slides along my straight edge)
Best regards,
PCH
paper size
For printing the tile plans.
Easy printing for these plans are not so easy. The plans are created on papersize 203 x 254 mm paper size.
US letter measures 216 mm x 279 mm (8.5 by 11 in)
A4 measures 210 by 297 millimetres (8.27 in × 11.7 in)
You can play with zoom and print or just print and clip the sides.
The full size plan is 873 x 728 mm and have no clue what paper size that is
Something between A0 and A1 and most likely that nobody has a printer that size.
Maybe FT could publish the plans tiled on standard US Letter and A4 since they use Illustrator on a Mac it should be easy.
For printing the tile plans.
Easy printing for these plans are not so easy. The plans are created on papersize 203 x 254 mm paper size.
US letter measures 216 mm x 279 mm (8.5 by 11 in)
A4 measures 210 by 297 millimetres (8.27 in × 11.7 in)
You can play with zoom and print or just print and clip the sides.
The full size plan is 873 x 728 mm and have no clue what paper size that is
Something between A0 and A1 and most likely that nobody has a printer that size.
Maybe FT could publish the plans tiled on standard US Letter and A4 since they use Illustrator on a Mac it should be easy.
For printing the tile plans.
Easy printing for these plans are not so easy. The plans are created on papersize 203 x 254 mm paper size.
US letter measures 216 mm x 279 mm (8.5 by 11 in)
A4 measures 210 by 297 millimetres (8.27 in × 11.7 in)
You can play with zoom and print or just print and clip the sides.
The full size plan is 873 x 728 mm and have no clue what paper size that is
Something between A0 and A1 and most likely that nobody has a printer that size.
Maybe FT could publish the plans tiled on standard US Letter and A4 since they use Illustrator on a Mac it should be easy.
What everyone seems to recommend instead of tiled plans is to grab the single page document and use Adobe Acrobat Reader to do the tile for you.
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When you go to cut your parts out, the curves will be the hardest part so save them for last. Whenever I cut curves, I kinda score the edges on the first pass. Your blade will kinda bind if you try to cut all the way through around sharp curves. Take a couple passes and it'l come out a lot cleaner. If the edge comes out kinda angled, you can always sand it back straight.
nevenelestate
No Agenda FPV
Agreed. For outside curves I sometimes cut a square corner and then take out slices to make the curve.
