Help! Quad Unbinds at takeoff

[GuardianVex]

Timestamp : 3:40
5:25
I have the same issue as him and have no issue for the drone externally and all the parts are in good condition

(436) Do not buy the Eachine QX95 until you watch this. - YouTube

 

[JasonK]

you mean it disarmed? (unbinding would be something different).

Did your OSD say anything about it? what was your RSSI when it happened?
if the issue keeps happening, please get the RSSI, status line, throttle on your OSD and DVR the situation. Hopefully something will indicate what problem your having.

That video looks like the person flew into a null/dead zone in their TX pattern (or ran into some sort of control link interference) which triggered a fail-safe condition.

 

[GuardianVex]

you mean it disarmed? (unbinding would be something different).

Did your OSD say anything about it? what was your RSSI when it happened?
if the issue keeps happening, please get the RSSI, status line, throttle on your OSD and DVR the situation. Hopefully something will indicate what problem your having.

That video looks like the person flew into a null/dead zone in their TX pattern (or ran into some sort of control link interference) which triggered a fail-safe condition.

Yeah, I meant Disarm , and for the OSD troubleshooting I do not have an fpv camera or goggles

 

[JasonK]

Yeah, I meant Disarm , and for the OSD troubleshooting I do not have an fpv camera or goggles

Do you have RSSI telemetry back to your radio? you could setup an alarm. but either way we need more information, else all we can do is guess at common causes.

 

[PsyBorg]

If you get that tilt n fall behavior where one motor stops then it rolls back and to one side then all motors stop that is a fail safe condition. That is exactly what is going on with the guy in the video you linked has going on.

Several things are happening.. first its a 1s quad. Yank the led's off it (turn them off in beta flight) they just suck power from an already weak sauce condition. Second its a 1s system known for crappy connectors and power current handling. Third low C rated batteries. The C rating is being negated with poor current handling from the connectors and you are getting receiver brown outs causing the fail safe condition.

Battery voltage will look normal when checked static under no load which is why this problem is so deceiving leading people in other directions.

 

[GuardianVex]

If you get that tilt n fall behavior where one motor stops then it rolls back and to one side then all motors stop that is a fail safe condition. That is exactly what is going on with the guy in the video you linked has going on.

Several things are happening.. first its a 1s quad. Yank the led's off it (turn them off in beta flight) they just suck power from an already weak sauce condition. Second its a 1s system known for crappy connectors and power current handling. Third low C rated batteries. The C rating is being negated with poor current handling from the connectors and you are getting receiver brown outs causing the fail safe condition.

Battery voltage will look normal when checked static under no load which is why this problem is so deceiving leading people in other directions.

My battery is a 25c , could that be the problem

 

[JasonK]

what is your total expected flight time? a constant 25c would only be 2.4 minutes of flight time, however that is the _average_ draw, not max. that battery would need to have the capacity to get you 7.5+ minutes for 25c to be 'sufficient'. Also, in general, a higher C rating means less voltage sag overall.

 

[GuardianVex]

Max 5 min flight time

what is your total expected flight time? a constant 25c would only be 2.4 minutes of flight time, however that is the _average_ draw, not max. that battery would need to have the capacity to get you 7.5+ minutes for 25c to be 'sufficient'. Also, in general, a higher C rating means less voltage sag overall.

 

[GuardianVex]

And another thing is a wiring got burned and there was a small fire , but all the electronics seems to be in good shape

 

[PsyBorg]

And another thing is a wiring got burned and there was a small fire , but all the electronics seems to be in good shape

Yeah that sounds like that connector thing not handling current properly between motor draw, leds AND a vtx off a 1s battery. Burned wires = bad... without electronics experience and or really good soldering skills to repair all that I would suggest writing that one off and researching something a little more robust to replace it with. Burnt wires is bad enough, an exploding lipo battery or one that catches fire is another. No need to burn your house down over a toy.

 

[GuardianVex]

I just found out that when I test the motors in betaflight and arm it when connected with a usb there is no unarming issue at all . Could this be a battery problem

 

[GuardianVex]

Yeah that sounds like that connector thing not handling current properly between motor draw, leds AND a vtx off a 1s battery. Burned wires = bad... without electronics experience and or really good soldering skills to repair all that I would suggest writing that one off and researching something a little more robust to replace it with. Burnt wires is bad enough, an exploding lipo battery or one that catches fire is another. No need to burn your house down over a toy.

I just found out that when I test the motors in betaflight and arm it when connected with a usb there is no unarming issue at all . Could this be a battery problem

 

[PsyBorg]

I stick by my words that you should probably let this one go and start fresh if you have burned wires. That said.. you should get a battery tester that reads internal resistance of a battery. This will better tell you the health of the battery and if it is damaged where it wont properly hold or move a charge.

This all still leads me to think the quad is drawing too much from the battery and not keeping enough current flow to power the FC, motors, video system and leds. Turn off the LEDS, disconnect all video gear both camera and vtx even if you have to cut a positive wire as you can always solder that back together later just leave yourself room to work. Then hover the quad line of sight. if that does not dis arm that is proof of too much current draw for that battery.

 

[GuardianVex]

I stick by my words that you should probably let this one go and start fresh if you have burned wires. That said.. you should get a battery tester that reads internal resistance of a battery. This will better tell you the health of the battery and if it is damaged where it wont properly hold or move a charge.

This all still leads me to think the quad is drawing too much from the battery and not keeping enough current flow to power the FC, motors, video system and leds. Turn off the LEDS, disconnect all video gear both camera and vtx even if you have to cut a positive wire as you can always solder that back together later just leave yourself room to work. Then hover the quad line of sight. if that does not dis arm that is proof of too much current draw for that battery.

Are there any troubleshooting steps I can do , Already planning to buy a new kit , but I want to trobleshoot just to be sure

 

[PsyBorg]

Uhhhmm.....

"you should get a battery tester that reads internal resistance of a battery. This will better tell you the health of the battery and if it is damaged where it wont properly hold or move a charge.

This all still leads me to think the quad is drawing too much from the battery and not keeping enough current flow to power the FC, motors, video system and leds. Turn off the LEDS, disconnect all video gear both camera and vtx even if you have to cut a positive wire as you can always solder that back together later just leave yourself room to work. Then hover the quad line of sight. if that does not dis arm that is proof of too much current draw for that battery. "

I would also replace the burned wires with slightly thicker gauge and maybe look into better connectors then the stock ones but 1s is kinda limited in that option. Kinda why I dont bother with things that small. The OG FT Gremlin on 2s or 3s is a way better option over all that mass produced 1s stuff.

Not sure what your soldering skills are or your mechanical abilities so hard to say past replace the one you got n move on.