Help! REAL GREENHORN

[BRYAN STONE]

Soooo ... I'm just beginning to get onto this hobby ... a real greenhorn here. I am looking at building 3 different planes at this point. I have built one that requires the power pack A. It comes with everything you need, transmitter and battery included. No problem here. But the other plane's require power pack's A and B. These have everything except battery and receiver. I have an old Spectrum multi Chanel transmitter. So, how do you pick out the transmitters and batteries/chargers to go with the individual power packs. I'm sure it must be fairly straight forward but I need a hint as to where to start.... remember .. I KNOW NOTHING ... any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Peb

 

[TheFlyingBrit]

Firstly you need to understand how LiPo power packs work. The rating of a Lipo pack is defined by: The number of cells ie voltage, the mAh (milli amps per hour) the available current and the C rating current output.
lets start with the voltage:

Every motor and ESC combination has a Cell rating, that specifies the maximum operating voltage. Example: a specific motor may specify it can operate with either a 2s or 3s lipo so its operating voltage is 8.4 to 12.6 volts maximum.
The next thing to consider is the mAh rating, the higher the current rating the longer you get to fly before it runs out. The down side's are: the more current capacity you choose the bigger and heavier the battery becomes, so it becomes a trade off between weight and flight time. The other consideration is the ESC (electronic speed controller) rating if the current draw of the motor exceeds the ESC current rating you burn it out, so you need to get the specification correct to start with. The C rating quite simply is the amount of current a specific LiPo can discharge at any point in time. Its more important when there is a high current draw required for example flying EDF powered models.
Flite Test use a term which can be confusing in general modelling circles "Power Pack". They refer to a collection of parts which they supply for a specific model type. For example: The Simple cub, which if memory serves me, is a power pack 2. This comes with a motor, ESC, servos, prop and leads etc. The rating of that motor, prop and ESC will define the optimum Lipo pack you should use and is usually provided.
My understanding of a power pack is: A self-contained transportable unit which stores and supplies electrical power (battery).

As for Lipo chargers that's a matter of opinion and personal choice, I tend to use Imax B6.

It can operate off mains power, or 12V lead acid battery for charging in the field it comes with a selection of LiPo battery connectors just in case. It will certainly charge all LiPo's up to 4s.
However, I am sure there are plenty of others on the forum with alternative suggestions.
This is just a quick over view hope it helps.

 

[Merv]

Welcome to the forums. Here is a link to the beginner series
https://www.flitetest.com/articles#/textSearch=Series: beginner series

+1 on the IMax B6

Just to add to what the Brit said. The IMax comes in 2 models, one can ONLY run on 12-18v and the other can run on 120v or 12-18v. Not sure if they have some that run on 240v. The B6 can change up to a 6s pack.

You need to do a bit of math to calculate the amperage a battery can safely supply. The formula is mAh / 1000 x C
Example, a 2200 mAh 20C battery can safely supply 44 amps (2200/1000 x20 = 44)

Sometimes a battery will have 2 C ratings, always use the smaller of the 2. The larger rating is called a burst rate, you can only pull that many amps for a short burst, maybe 10 seconds or so.

Use the 1C rate to charge a battery. Charge a 2200 mAh battery at no more than 2.2 amps, maybe 2.4 or 2.5 if that is the setting your charger has, but a hard no on 5 amps.

All of the amp ratings are DO NOT EXCEED. It’s fine to use a battery that can supply 60 amps if you only need 40. Don’t try and draw 60 amps from a battery that can only supply 40.

 

[bisco]

Soooo ... I'm just beginning to get onto this hobby ... a real greenhorn here. I am looking at building 3 different planes at this point. I have built one that requires the power pack A. It comes with everything you need, transmitter and battery included. No problem here. But the other plane's require power pack's A and B. These have everything except battery and receiver. I have an old Spectrum multi Chanel transmitter. So, how do you pick out the transmitters and batteries/chargers to go with the individual power packs. I'm sure it must be fairly straight forward but I need a hint as to where to start.... remember .. I KNOW NOTHING ... any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Peb

what transmitter and receiver came with the one you built? maybe you can use that transmitter?
i'm not familiar with old spektrum multi channel transmitters, but you have to be careful mixing old with new receivers. dsmx and dsm2, plus the old ones were not always reliable.

the power packs should list the required battery in the test flight store. i also like the b6 charger above.

 

[Incader]

The transmitter you use does not differ between planes that much in the early stages. You only need one transmitter (depends on the model) and switch between model planes. If you have a transmitter without those features, then you’ll have to bind the transmitter to each plane before you plug it in.
If or when you get really into the hobby, then I suggest getting a good transmitter. There is a rule: “Good gear can sometimes be just the push you need to go beyond”
-A wise man

 

[TheFlyingBrit]

Welcome to the forums. Here is a link to the beginner series
https://www.flitetest.com/articles#/textSearch=Series: beginner series

+1 on the IMax B6

Just to add to what the Brit said. The IMax comes in 2 models, one can ONLY run on 12-18v and the other can run on 120v or 12-18v. Not sure if they have some that run on 240v. The B6 can change up to a 6s pack.

You need to do a bit of math to calculate the amperage a battery can safely supply. The formula is mAh / 1000 x C
Example, a 2200 mAh 20C battery can safely supply 44 amps (2200/1000 x20 = 44)

Sometimes a battery will have 2 C ratings, always use the smaller of the 2. The larger rating is called a burst rate, you can only pull that many amps for a short burst, maybe 10 seconds or so.

Use the 1C rate to charge a battery. Charge a 2200 mAh battery at no more than 2.2 amps, maybe 2.4 or 2.5 if that is the setting your charger has, but a hard no on 5 amps.

All of the amp ratings are DO NOT EXCEED. It’s fine to use a battery that can supply 60 amps if you only need 40. Don’t try and draw 60 amps from a battery that can only supply 40.

I have two of them and both mine run on either 240 v mains or 12v battery

 

[bisco]

Soooo ... I'm just beginning to get onto this hobby ... a real greenhorn here. I am looking at building 3 different planes at this point. I have built one that requires the power pack A. It comes with everything you need, transmitter and battery included. No problem here. But the other plane's require power pack's A and B. These have everything except battery and receiver. I have an old Spectrum multi Chanel transmitter. So, how do you pick out the transmitters and batteries/chargers to go with the individual power packs. I'm sure it must be fairly straight forward but I need a hint as to where to start.... remember .. I KNOW NOTHING ... any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Peb

which plane did you build? have you flown it?

 

[BRYAN STONE]

Firstly you need to understand how LiPo power packs work. The rating of a Lipo pack is defined by: The number of cells ie voltage, the mAh (milli amps per hour) the available current and the C rating current output.
lets start with the voltage:
View attachment 215811
Every motor and ESC combination has a Cell rating, that specifies the maximum operating voltage. Example: a specific motor may specify it can operate with either a 2s or 3s lipo so its operating voltage is 8.4 to 12.6 volts maximum.
The next thing to consider is the mAh rating, the higher the current rating the longer you get to fly before it runs out. The down side's are: the more current capacity you choose the bigger and heavier the battery becomes, so it becomes a trade off between weight and flight time. The other consideration is the ESC (electronic speed controller) rating if the current draw of the motor exceeds the ESC current rating you burn it out, so you need to get the specification correct to start with. The C rating quite simply is the amount of current a specific LiPo can discharge at any point in time. Its more important when there is a high current draw required for example flying EDF powered models.
Flite Test use a term which can be confusing in general modelling circles "Power Pack". They refer to a collection of parts which they supply for a specific model type. For example: The Simple cub, which if memory serves me, is a power pack 2. This comes with a motor, ESC, servos, prop and leads etc. The rating of that motor, prop and ESC will define the optimum Lipo pack you should use and is usually provided.
My understanding of a power pack is: A self-contained transportable unit which stores and supplies electrical power (battery).

As for Lipo chargers that's a matter of opinion and personal choice, I tend to use Imax B6.
View attachment 215815
It can operate off mains power, or 12V lead acid battery for charging in the field it comes with a selection of LiPo battery connectors just in case. It will certainly charge all LiPo's up to 4s.
However, I am sure there are plenty of others on the forum with alternative suggestions.
This is just a quick over view hope it helps.

Firstly you need to understand how LiPo power packs work. The rating of a Lipo pack is defined by: The number of cells ie voltage, the mAh (milli amps per hour) the available current and the C rating current output.
lets start with the voltage:
View attachment 215811
Every motor and ESC combination has a Cell rating, that specifies the maximum operating voltage. Example: a specific motor may specify it can operate with either a 2s or 3s lipo so its operating voltage is 8.4 to 12.6 volts maximum.
The next thing to consider is the mAh rating, the higher the current rating the longer you get to fly before it runs out. The down side's are: the more current capacity you choose the bigger and heavier the battery becomes, so it becomes a trade off between weight and flight time. The other consideration is the ESC (electronic speed controller) rating if the current draw of the motor exceeds the ESC current rating you burn it out, so you need to get the specification correct to start with. The C rating quite simply is the amount of current a specific LiPo can discharge at any point in time. Its more important when there is a high current draw required for example flying EDF powered models.
Flite Test use a term which can be confusing in general modelling circles "Power Pack". They refer to a collection of parts which they supply for a specific model type. For example: The Simple cub, which if memory serves me, is a power pack 2. This comes with a motor, ESC, servos, prop and leads etc. The rating of that motor, prop and ESC will define the optimum Lipo pack you should use and is usually provided.
My understanding of a power pack is: A self-contained transportable unit which stores and supplies electrical power (battery).

As for Lipo chargers that's a matter of opinion and personal choice, I tend to use Imax B6.
View attachment 215815
It can operate off mains power, or 12V lead acid battery for charging in the field it comes with a selection of LiPo battery connectors just in case. It will certainly charge all LiPo's up to 4s.
However, I am sure there are plenty of others on the forum with alternative suggestions.
This is just a quick over view hope it helps.

 

[bisco]

what just happened?

 

[TheFlyingBrit]

?

 

[bisco]

bryan?