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Scratch Built Micros - FT Store and Bullet Connectors

#1
I am trying to find a lightweight power setup for a mini nutball (~14") design and the new FT store is making it a bit hard. My goal is just a small solder-less power system for an AUW 100-125g plane. Given how light everything else is an H, A or even F pack motor should work but smaller is better. I could put an F-pack (that I have laying around) on it for giggles but I would rather a slow flyer then a fast one. With everything but the motor/prop/firewall I am at 95g. I want to avoid soldered connections so my daughter can put it together herself. If I can pre-solder bullets myself I am happy to waste a few grams to make it easier.

I was looking at the A and H power setups, but I dont need the whole power pack. I wanted to make sure I could actually connect the motors to my 12A emax ESCs. I've bought the 1806 from FT before and it came with bullets. The store page says nothing about bullets on the motor. Does it still have them?
https://store.flitetest.com/emax-mt1806-2280kv-brushless-motor-cw-thread-emx-mt-0006/p694264

For the 1106s, I cant find the emax pbd sold by itself, the page doesnt mention bullets and I cant find bullet connectors on the FT store. Anyone bought the motor itself before? Did you connect it without a PDB?
https://store.flitetest.com/emax-rs1106-micro-brushless-motors-4500kv-emx-1106-4500/p682351

I was even looking at the 3000kv version of the 1106 as slower is better. What power setups do you use for your brushless micros?
 

Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
Mentor
#2
If you get desperate for motor to ESC bullet connectors you could always make your own.

For some of my models I just cut up old XT30 or XT60 connectors, Male and female, from old batteries and damaged ESCs. All you need then is a few small lengths of heatshrink and you are all set!

It works for me!

have fun!
 

mrjdstewart

Well-known member
#3
I am trying to find a lightweight power setup for a mini nutball (~14") design and the new FT store is making it a bit hard. My goal is just a small solder-less power system for an AUW 100-125g plane. Given how light everything else is an H, A or even F pack motor should work but smaller is better. I could put an F-pack (that I have laying around) on it for giggles but I would rather a slow flyer then a fast one. With everything but the motor/prop/firewall I am at 95g. I want to avoid soldered connections so my daughter can put it together herself. If I can pre-solder bullets myself I am happy to waste a few grams to make it easier.
something like this?

20180824_175303.jpg

I was looking at the A and H power setups, but I dont need the whole power pack. I wanted to make sure I could actually connect the motors to my 12A emax ESCs. I've bought the 1806 from FT before and it came with bullets. The store page says nothing about bullets on the motor. Does it still have them?
https://store.flitetest.com/emax-mt1806-2280kv-brushless-motor-cw-thread-emx-mt-0006/p694264
yes, all the 1806's, and 2205's i have ever bought from FT have always come with the mini connectors that fit the 12a BLHeli ESC they sell.

For the 1106s, I cant find the emax pbd sold by itself, the page doesnt mention bullets and I cant find bullet connectors on the FT store. Anyone bought the motor itself before? Did you connect it without a PDB?
https://store.flitetest.com/emax-rs1106-micro-brushless-motors-4500kv-emx-1106-4500/p682351
do a google for any micro PDB. you can get away with anything so long as it has a 5v power supply for the receiver assuming you don't need FPV, or other trinkets, even then most still do. Yes, you can wire them directly to a 12a esc, 3 wires just as normal. there are no bullets pre-soldered to the 1106's, or the H-pack ESC's

I was even looking at the 3000kv version of the 1106 as slower is better. What power setups do you use for your brushless micros?
i have built 3 Darts using the PDB, each was a bit of work considering how simple the aircraft was. you have to be able to solder. one the main issues with the emax pdb FT sold was over puddling your solder, and shorting your power leads. the positive and neg pads were next to each other and if your not used to this kind of work, it's pretty easy to ruin the board. i would guess that may be the reason it's been replaced.

if all you are building is an airplane, there is NO reason to go to the PDB unless running FPV and a bunch of other things. if building a simple nutball, i would not due to the additional work required and possibility of messing something up. for it's size, the pdb delivers a good amount of Amp's and a great deal of flexibility, but if not needed...

good luck,

me :cool: