Sig 1/4 Clipped Winged Cub and time to change my Avatar

cyclone3350

Master member
Making these scale struts is going to an adventure. About the only thing I was able to fabricate today, was the strut attachment fittings on the the wings. This wasn't as bad as i thought. I used a .032 aluminum sheet, made a pattern, and with some metal shears, a file and a bender, made these attachments. Now I can measure the length needed from streamline tubing. The cubden.org has a very good detail instructions on how to do this. Of course I had to put the cowling on, the door and spinner to give me an idea as to how this thing is going to look.

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cyclone3350

Master member
Old stock struts verses the new fabricated ones. Old gear verses new one
I went with scale struts and dog gone it, it is tanking me forever. Got one side done and now that I know how to do it, I am hoping the other side will be a lot quicker. I started with a set of H9 1/4 Cub struts that I found @ a R/C garage sale. That was all he had left from his Cub and he gave them to me as they were pretty beat up. In fact on one side, the front strut was curve badly from impact and the threaded rod ends where missing on two of them. The curved strut will made of three pieces with the resin inserts for reinforcement. This is a clipped winged and cutting down the lengths is needed. So this how I made a resin cast from one of the pieces cut off and used that to install a threaded rod on the cut down ends. I had to remove the jury strut bands to reposition them. Well, they were rusted and riveted in and broke during removal. New ones had to be made. I also had to make longer jury struts from K$S 5/8th streamline tubing. These were to thick, so I flattened them by putting an 1/8 spruce square inside them and this allowed for me to flatten them all equally. I was able to make use of the original blind nuts for the stock struts. this meant I had to fabricate new attachment fittings, but they work.

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Ratcheeroo

Legendary member
Old stock struts verses the new fabricated ones. Old gear verses new one
I went with scale struts and dog gone it, it is tanking me forever. Got one side done and now that I know how to do it, I am hoping the other side will be a lot quicker. I started with a set of H9 1/4 Cub struts that I found @ a R/C garage sale. That was all he had left from his Cub and he gave them to me as they were pretty beat up. In fact on one side, the front strut was curve badly from impact and the threaded rod ends where missing on two of them. The curved strut will made of three pieces with the resin inserts for reinforcement. This is a clipped winged and cutting down the lengths is needed. So this how I made a resin cast from one of the pieces cut off and used that to install a threaded rod on the cut down ends. I had to remove the jury strut bands to reposition them. Well, they were rusted and riveted in and broke during removal. New ones had to be made. I also had to make longer jury struts from K$S 5/8th streamline tubing. These were to thick, so I flattened them by putting an 1/8 spruce square inside them and this allowed for me to flatten them all equally. I was able to make use of the original blind nuts for the stock struts. this meant I had to fabricate new attachment fittings, but they work.

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Yep you definitely upgraded(y)(y)
 

cyclone3350

Master member
Let's see how much longer to finish. A couple of loose ends to tie tie up, putty some balsa dings, paint the metal part and cover.

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cyclone3350

Master member
I can't believe it has been 2 weeks since my last post. I have been working on this thing and still don't feel like I have made much progress. The sanding, priming, prep and painting all these little parts have taken me forever.. I have added all the little pieces of covering to the bare structure in the interior and what a job that turned out be. Going to start on the final covering and hopefully that won't take me too long. That is, until I add the red trim. Which I know will take another 2 to 4 days once all the white is on.
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cyclone3350

Master member
Now the covering begins!

The Sig construction manual has the top of the fuse done in halves with the rudder and top half as one piece. I thought this was crazy, but it worked out. I am using Oratex fabric which stretches oh so nicely. I can't imagen doing this with plastic film.
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speedbirdted

Legendary member
When people cover a Cub and skip the tail fillet it really disappoints me. I think it's a very clever and good looking feature of the full scale. You did it perfectly. (y)

I've used Solartex before which could be considered a sort of precursor to Oratex. I was very impressed by it. I never expected a woven material to have the potential for shrinkage like it does, and not only that but I've found it's very resistant to sagging over time and once sealed almost never requires a re-shrinking. I hope this quality was carried over to Oratex.

I assume you will paint on the bits of red trim to match the cowling? Or will you just use the red precolored Oratex?
 

cyclone3350

Master member
When people cover a Cub and skip the tail fillet it really disappoints me. I think it's a very clever and good looking feature of the full scale. You did it perfectly. (y)

I've used Solartex before which could be considered a sort of precursor to Oratex. I was very impressed by it. I never expected a woven material to have the potential for shrinkage like it does, and not only that but I've found it's very resistant to sagging over time and once sealed almost never requires a re-shrinking. I hope this quality was carried over to Oratex.

I assume you will paint on the bits of red trim to match the cowling? Or will you just use the red precolored Oratex?

Thanks, I wasn't sure if this fillet would have worked out. I was a major Solartex fan myself. I find the Oratex to be a great substitute. I just wish there where more colors to choose from. The Cub I am modeling this one on, has just a solid white cowling with some fancy red scallops on the top of the wing, and red checkers on the tail and the bottom of the wing.
 

cyclone3350

Master member
Making good progress. Have the fuse covered, the windows in and and the side hinged window attached. I am posting a trick I like to use with Oratex. For installing side windows, I make a pattern about a 1/16th of an inch smaller than the opening. After covering. I use some 3m 77 spray adhesive to attach the pattern to the covering and use that to out the window opening. With the Oratex overlap, I install the window and using a trim iron, I use the Oratex glue to secure it. this is clean and no worries about getting unwanted glue stains on the clear plastic. I also use doll house door hinges from Hobby Lobby for the top hinge glass door. Hope to have this completed by this Wednesday.
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cyclone3350

Master member
Wanted to try my hand @ doing checker boards. Yes, I cut out each red square and ironed them on individually..
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before I call it a night.
 

cyclone3350

Master member
Everything except for the wing is covered and all the red trim is done. Installed the ESC and BEC along with all the radio gear. I have the all the tail control surfaces attached and control linkages hooked up. For the interior, I ran the wires behind the side panel. This made it a little wavy on the bottom. Once all the interior parts R installed, this will pretty much hide all the electronics.

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Taildragger

Legendary member
Everything except for the wing is covered and all the red trim is done. Installed the ESC and BEC along with all the radio gear. I have the all the tail control surfaces attached and control linkages hooked up. For the interior, I ran the wires behind the side panel. This made it a little wavy on the bottom. Once all the interior parts R installed, this will pretty much hide all the electronics.

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WOW
Well Done. U built that cub the right way clearly. It looks amazing (y)(y)
 

cyclone3350

Master member
Had a productive weekend. My removable interior parts worked out perfectly. Everything screws in as well as the Velcro for the rear seat sling. All electronics R hidden except for the two aileron wires. Test fit the battery tray with the batts. The magnetic front seat comes out very well as it is for display only. Motor is mounted and my homemade decals R on. The lightning bolt was a complete nightmare and took all day Sunday to get it to work. I used Cricut vinyl because it had the length and it was cheap. It cut out well by hand. This stripe is 53" long and is very thin. Soap and water sprayed on allowed me the position it straight., This was not an easy task. Took me all day today to to make the pattern for those damn top cut outs for the windscreen, I wanted a perfect scale look and fit and was not going to give up. I think I got it right. Now on to cutting out the clear sheet.
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Taildragger

Legendary member
Had a productive weekend. My removable interior parts worked out perfectly. Everything screws in as well as the Velcro for the rear seat sling. All electronics R hidden except for the two aileron wires. Test fit the battery tray with the batts. The magnetic front seat comes out very well as it is for display only. Motor is mounted and my homemade decals R on. The lightning bolt was a complete nightmare and took all day Sunday to get it to work. I used Cricut vinyl because it had the length and it was cheap. It cut out well by hand. This stripe is 53" long and is very thin. Soap and water sprayed on allowed me the position it straight., This was not an easy task. Took me all day today to to make the pattern for those damn top cut outs for the windscreen, I wanted a perfect scale look and fit and was not going to give up. I think I got it right. Now on to cutting out the clear sheet.
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doing your hair while building?
 

nhk750

Aviation Enthusiast
Wow, I just got all caught up on your build and it looks beautiful! I am just getting ready to install the battery tray idea and noticed you have your batteries forward a bit. How is the balance so far, have you checked it? Also it looks you you used magnets at the front of the tray? I have heard this plane can be tail heavy with the lighter electric motors, but just wanted to double check before I start on the battery tray. I wont be doing all the beautiful scale work you have created, but just a solid flying standoff scale model.
 

FlyingWithRyan

Elite member
God this isn't even fair how pretty this plane is... I need to get on restoring the 1/4 Sig Cub in my basement. Not sure how scale I want to go though. Definitely don't have this type of time... or space being in college.
 

Ratcheeroo

Legendary member
Had a productive weekend. My removable interior parts worked out perfectly. Everything screws in as well as the Velcro for the rear seat sling. All electronics R hidden except for the two aileron wires. Test fit the battery tray with the batts. The magnetic front seat comes out very well as it is for display only. Motor is mounted and my homemade decals R on. The lightning bolt was a complete nightmare and took all day Sunday to get it to work. I used Cricut vinyl because it had the length and it was cheap. It cut out well by hand. This stripe is 53" long and is very thin. Soap and water sprayed on allowed me the position it straight., This was not an easy task. Took me all day today to to make the pattern for those damn top cut outs for the windscreen, I wanted a perfect scale look and fit and was not going to give up. I think I got it right. Now on to cutting out the clear sheet.
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I would say that was a very productive weekend. Decals look awesome, everything looking really really nice!(y)(y)(y)(y)(y)(y)(y)(y)(y)(y)
 

cyclone3350

Master member
Wow, I just got all caught up on your build and it looks beautiful! I am just getting ready to install the battery tray idea and noticed you have your batteries forward a bit. How is the balance so far, have you checked it? Also it looks you you used magnets at the front of the tray? I have heard this plane can be tail heavy with the lighter electric motors, but just wanted to double check before I start on the battery tray. I wont be doing all the beautiful scale work you have created, but just a solid flying standoff scale model.

Many thanks on the compliments. I have been reading your thread as well. Those gussets R an excellent idea. I tend to be little rough on my bird around when flipping it around to work on it. I used Titebond and epoxy for my space frame and did knock a few glue joints loose. I would have used the gussets if I had seen your post. I did put everything as much as possible together to do a CG check before covering. The forward tray screw hole works for the 4000mah 40c 4s's, and the last one is for the 5000mah 65c 5s. The previous picture is with the 5000mah 30c 5s in the rearward hole. Yes, I did use magnets to take some stress off of the hold down screw. Wow. From Alaska to Cancun. A man of many latitudes in your travel. BTW, the 4s weighs about 23oz. and the 5s is 29oz. each.
 

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