cyclone3350
Master member
I see U R making progress on yours also. I think U R going to like Oratex. I have used it for the first time on my 110" Rascal Chines knock off and was very pleased with it. This one will be covered with it too.
Sig 1/4 Clipped Winged Cub and time to change my Avatar
- Thread starter cyclone3350
- Start date
I see U R making progress on yours also. I think U R going to like Oratex. I have used it for the first time on my 110" Rascal Chines knock off and was very pleased with it. This one will be covered with it too.
cyclone3350
Master member
Instrument panel is done. First, I want to make a disdainer to explain how this type of panel made it to a J3. The Cub I am replicating is explained in this EAA article along with all it's mods. The panel is two pieces of .020 polystyrene plastic and the instruments R pictures from various aircraft suppliers and saved as a jpg. They R printed out on glossy photo paper and glue behind the first piece. Then the final backing is added behind that. Clear plastic circles were cut and glued behind the round bezels before that was glued in place. I used pins to replicate the mounting screws and were painted with Testors gun metal metalizer paint. A paper pattern was made to unsure consistent placement of the screws and a pin vise made the holes for the pins to slide in. Wire cutters trimmed off the excess.
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Ratcheeroo
Legendary member
All I can say is WOW! Think I'm going to have to up my game for this challenge. Awesome work you got going on this one
cyclone3350
Master member
Time to vent out. I am tired of being an old guy doing old school.
I have been working on this metal fitting set for the seat belts all day and was hoping to have it done.. I made a single blank for the various parts and then replicated it in silicone putty for resin casting. I will have about 7+ hours in just these parts without painting and assembly. This is starting to drag on taking the fun out of it. I am asking you 3D printer folks to take a look @ what I have and tell how long it would take to deign and print it out. The pieces themselves R about 15 - 20mm in length and width and about 2mm thick. 3/4 of an inch or less by 3/32 thick for us US readers. I am asking because, I think I need to save some time and new toy for my work shop.
I have been working on this metal fitting set for the seat belts all day and was hoping to have it done.. I made a single blank for the various parts and then replicated it in silicone putty for resin casting. I will have about 7+ hours in just these parts without painting and assembly. This is starting to drag on taking the fun out of it. I am asking you 3D printer folks to take a look @ what I have and tell how long it would take to deign and print it out. The pieces themselves R about 15 - 20mm in length and width and about 2mm thick. 3/4 of an inch or less by 3/32 thick for us US readers. I am asking because, I think I need to save some time and new toy for my work shop.
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Ratcheeroo
Legendary member
Holy crap! yep you need a 3d printer. Hoping Santa is gonna drop one off for me this year
cyclone3350
Master member
Holy crap! yep you need a 3d printer. Hoping Santa is gonna drop one off for me this year
Yeah, I think I see one one on the way before the end of the year.
cyclone3350
Master member
cyclone3350
Master member
I think all that time making those resin cast fittings paid off. Fortunately, when Alvin Musser modified this clipped wing, he left the front seat a lap belt. I don't think I could another 5 point harness.
Ratcheeroo
Legendary member
Looks awesome!
cyclone3350
Master member
speedbirdted
Legendary member
Will you install a pilot? If nobody's in the cockpit I would argue there's no need for belts... or seats... or any cockpit at all
cyclone3350
Master member
Will you install a pilot? If nobody's in the cockpit I would argue there's no need for belts... or seats... or any cockpit at all
Right now, the plan is to eventual to see how the belts will work with a pilot. The initial flight test will be without. The primary purpose here is a dry run for the next cub build. I actually intend to build a L-4 using carbon fiber tubes and factory drawings to replicate the tube frame and go all out scale.
cyclone3350
Master member
Haven't heard of a resin printer. I will definitely look into it to see if that is more fitting for my needs. Thanks.
cyclone3350
Master member
Got the floor boards done and did some dry fitting to see how everything looks together. The only thing left is to make a control stick for the rear seat. Now I have to fabricate the wing struts and drill out the holes for the main gear and should get to the covering soon. Had to make the front seat removable via magnets as the battery tray wont fit with it in.
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cyclone3350
Master member
This is it for detailing the cockpit. Control stick done. Won't put one up front, as the front seat will be removed for flight to fit the battery tray. As U can see, it is held in by magnets. I like the way @Ratcheeroo make use of the black paper of DTFB, that I peeled some off and used it to cover the floor boards. I used Testors Decal Bonder to water proof it.
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Ratcheeroo
Legendary member
Wow, that looks absolutely incredible!
cyclone3350
Master member
The main gear is done, fitted and operational. All that is left is to paint and cover. This now, gives me the opportunity to start fabricating the wing struts. The gear is from a H9 Cub that I bought as wreck for the parts. What a pain in the ants to get it to fit. First, where the blind nuts go, I had to trim keep from interfering with the seat magnets as well as grove out the rear hardwood maple support. Then the angle on the center bungee support had to be increased to make up for the fuse being narrower than the H9. Finally the bungee tubes hade to be shortened a 1/4in. It is on, and was a lot cheaper than buying the Robart scale gear.
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Ratcheeroo
Legendary member
That gear is incredible,what a build you have going there my friend, wow. What I am doing does'nt even compare to this, WOW!
cyclone3350
Master member
Many thanks @Ratcheeroo. I dunno, I've done some fancy foam boards before, but never could design one in the speed and quality that U produce. That Cobra skin scheme is going to be hard for U to top on your next one.
