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Solved Simple Cub? nope, Simple Scout First build - Alternative Battery

hiroshiman

Active member
#1
Cheers everyone,

First of all thank you for all the resources/info/stuffs that you guys provide. I'm about to build my first Simple Cub. I live in Europe and ordered 5mm Foam boards so the plane will be a bit bigger than on the blueprints instructions.

I'm ordering a power pack B but can't get the battery from flitetest shop. 140$ to send a battery oversee ? Ouch...
I'm a bit lost, of course, when it comes to matching the electronic and I would like to know if this battery will work well, and not toast my setup. It's a TATTU - TA-45C-1550-3S1P. From my understanding it should work fine, and it's just 10 grams heavier than the on on the shop.

Putting aside the weight or size issues, would this battery also work with the electronic from the B power pack ? TATTU - TA-75C-1800-3S1P

Can't wait to hear you guys advice.

Cheers
Anthony
 

FDS

Well-known member
#3
You can just use Hobbyking’s lipo range with any FT plane, you want at least 30C.
Avoid going too much bigger, if using Westboard (EU 5mm white) then make the nose longer by 30mm, in front of the wing. This will help counterbalance the heavier tail and make it easier to get the correct CG.
You also don’t need to buy the expensive Graupner power packs, there’s other options, for example Model Shop Leeds sell these excellent alternatives , I am sure you can get similar. I just buy the servos etc from Hobbyking, it’s even less that way.
 

hiroshiman

Active member
#5
You can just use Hobbyking’s lipo range with any FT plane, you want at least 30C.
Avoid going too much bigger, if using Westboard (EU 5mm white) then make the nose longer by 30mm, in front of the wing. This will help counterbalance the heavier tail and make it easier to get the correct CG.
You also don’t need to buy the expensive Graupner power packs, there’s other options, for example Model Shop Leeds sell these excellent alternatives , I am sure you can get similar. I just buy the servos etc from Hobbyking, it’s even less that way.
Thanks FDS. I will follow your advice on the nose, and I'm now looking for alternative power packs, options.
I have to confess that I'm totally lost. Buying on FT store seemed like the easiest way to have matching parts, but I will look around the forum. I'm also surprised that I read a few times things like "Don't use FT specs", "do not go with their power packs", do you agree?

The power kits are mostly Graupner on modelshopleeds, and sold out, and yes expensive.

I'm not even sure if I prefer Mode 1 or Mode 2 for flying... I'll go with Mode 1 as it looks more video games like, that might help :). The Spektrum Dx6e sounds like a good transmitter, with switchable modes, but I can't find it on modelshopleeds, lot's of research ahead... It's just the beginning of the journey it seems.

Lost lost lost
 

FDS

Well-known member
#6
Model Shop Leeds is just an example seller. There must be model stores in Switzerland? There’s certainly tons in Germany. The key thing on that page was the MSL version of the power pack for about €75.
You don’t need Spektrum to fly. There’s lots of radio options, many of them cheaper than the DX6E.
If you want to fly Horizon Hobby ready made BNF planes then a radio that uses their protocol DSMX might be useful. Different radio makers transmitters will not work with other receivers, they use a wide array of different radio protocols, none of which are compatible.
All decent radios can be switched between mode 1 and mode 2.
There is a big thread on radios here, DO NOT rush buying one.
https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?threads/which-transmitter-you-should-buy.37966/

If you are building in EU foamboard, all you need to change is to add a little bit of length to the nose on the simple series. You should follow the FT specs for your first few builds, it helps you learn faster since you don’t have to stress about all the parts.
The Simple Cub would also not be my recommendation for a first plane, many people find them harder to fly than the alternatives. I like the Tiny Trainer better, it’s more versatile. The Simple Scout is a popular learner build too.
You could just buy a WLtoys 182 like this one with everything in the box, fly that, then decide what more gear to buy. It’s winter, building season, so you will have plenty of time to make a fleet of stuff to crash when the weather improves!
I would also recommend looking for a local RC flying club, they will be able to help you with gear and learning to fly.
 
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hiroshiman

Active member
#7
OK thanks! But it does say in the requirements: Flitetest model with a Power Pack A requirement :rolleyes:

There is a big thread on radios here, DO NOT rush buying one.
Got it, I will read this thread, thanks. The idea is to build planes and swap the electronic for me. Building is half of the fun, so I thought I'll just buy a good radios with the matching receiver and always use the same setup.
 

FDS

Well-known member
#8
The MSL alternative packs come in
Power Pack A alternative
Power Pack B alternative
Power Pack C alternative

There is no complex process in finding the parts for a build, you buy the size of servo required, usually 5g or 9g, you are only going to need the basic plastic gear analogue ones, which are easy to get cheap on eBay, Hobbyking or any model shop. Then you put the motor size and KV into google and find one that’s close in size and the same in KV, buy an ESC that has an onboard Bec and is big enough for the motor. Then you need servo Y leads, a coupe of servo lead extensions, some linkage stoppers, 1.3mm wire for push rods, some firewalls or hobby ply to make your own, some control horns or make them from the template on the plans.
If you find a retailer in your own country, show them the FT store listing, they will put together he parts. If you want help finding the electrics I can put a list together if you want, Hobbyking or any EU internet stockist of RC stuff will have what you need.
 

hiroshiman

Active member
#9
I just saw your edit.

If you are building in EU foamboard, all you need to change is to add a little bit of length to the nose on the simple series. You should follow the FT specs for your first few builds, it helps you learn faster since you don’t have to stress about all the parts.
I was not going to change the specs, I just read a few posts saying they were not ideal. But I was planning to resize the plans though, so that the folds match the additional thickness.

The Simple Cub would also not be my recommendation for a first plane, many people find them harder to fly than the alternatives. I like the Tiny Trainer better, it’s more versatile. The Simple Scout is a popular learner build too.
About to check that. I promise my nephew I would build a seaplane, a future conversion from the Cub sounded perfect.

You could just buy a WLtoys 182 like this one with everything in the box, fly that, then decide what more gear to buy. It’s winter, building season, so you will have plenty of time to make a fleet of stuff to crash when the weather improves!
I would also recommend looking for a local RC flying club, they will be able to help you with gear and learning to fly.
Naaaa, definitely building it :). I have friends who know how to fly, I will ask them for advice first.
 
#10
The MSL alternative packs come in
Power Pack A alternative
Power Pack B alternative
Power Pack C alternative

There is no complex process in finding the parts for a build, you buy the size of servo required, usually 5g or 9g, you are only going to need the basic plastic gear analogue ones, which are easy to get cheap on eBay, Hobbyking or any model shop. Then you put the motor size and KV into google and find one that’s close in size and the same in KV, buy an ESC that has an onboard Bec and is big enough for the motor. Then you need servo Y leads, a coupe of servo lead extensions, some linkage stoppers, 1.3mm wire for push rods, some firewalls or hobby ply to make your own, some control horns or make them from the template on the plans.
If you find a retailer in your own country, show them the FT store listing, they will put together he parts. If you want help finding the electrics I can put a list together if you want, Hobbyking or any EU internet stockist of RC stuff will have what you need.
That is really kind of you man, I appreciate it. I will do as you say and find these matching parts, it's just a bit confusing at the beginning. Thanks a lot for your help mate!
 

FDS

Well-known member
#11
The stock FT plans, printed at 100% and cut on the outside edge of the lines, match EU 5mm foamboard. No need to resize.
You can put bigger motors on the larger planes, my Sportster has a 2812 1000kv with a 10x4 prop, plus a 2200mah 3s battery, it flies fine. The only planes that are hard to make in EU 5mm are the minis, with those you can use 3mm EU board instead. Cut inside the groove lines for A and B folds, it should all work.
 
#12
There is no complex process in finding the parts for a build
This is actually a great sentence. I built quite a few different things in my life, always started by reading a lot, got confused and mixed up, and then it would always come together. Thanks

The stock FT plans, printed at 100% and cut on the outside edge of the lines, match EU 5mm foamboard.
Perfect then, I'll follow your lead.

So, if I may pick your brain a little bit more, do you mind reviewing my shopping cart? I wonder if I got it all right or wrong. Buying everything from the same seller would be better (except the batteries).

PROPDRIVE V2 2826 1100kv Brushless Outrunner Motor
HXT900 Micro Servo 1.6kg / 0.12sec / 9g
HXT500 Micro Servo 0.8kg / 0.07sec / 6.2g -> For future projects I guess
HobbyKing 30A ESC 3A UBEC
15cm Servo Y-Lead (Futaba) (5pcs/bag)
20cm Servo Lead Extension (JR) 26AWG (5pcs/bag)
OrangeRx Tx6i Full Range 2.4GHz DSM2/DSMX compatible 6ch Radio System (Mode 1) International Version -> Looks awfull, but it seems like a good pick for begginers. The Jumper T16 looks great, I could afford it but it might not be the best for starting. Thanks for sharing that link, very helpfull.
TATTU - TA-45C-1550-3S1P
TATTU - TA-75C-1800-3S1P
Brass Linkage Stopper For 1.3mm Pushrods (10pcs)
Brass Linkage Stopper For 1mm Pushrods (10pcs) -> For future projects I guess

Connectors are not pre soldered on the ESC so:
Turnigy Heat Shrink Tube 4mm Red (1m)
Turnigy Heat Shrink Tube 4mm Black (1m)
PolyMax 3.5mm Gold Connectors 10 PAIRS (20PC)
Nylon XT60 Connectors Male/Female (5 pairs) GENUINE

What do you think ?
 
#13
Oh, I will have to find the push rods in a shop here, I couldn't find the 1.3mm you advised. There is actually a shop in my town but it's too expensive and the owners, well, not nice, trying to be polite here. Anyway, I can probably find the wire there.
 

FDS

Well-known member
#14
You want K&S “Music Wire” for control rods. Cornwall Model Boats sell it, they ship to the EU. They have ply for firewalls too, go thicker than the FT recommended size if you use that big motor. I used 4mm ply on my big Sportster. Get some 3mm Music Wire as well since you will want that for undercarriag.
A 2826 is quite a big motor, it will certainly help counter the tail weight, set the CG up by moving the powerpod back and forth with the battery near the front of its travel, as you can push the battery back easier than going forward, don’t put bbq skewers into the pod sides until that’s set.
You don’t need 1m of heat shrink, I buy a mixed box off eBay with lots of sizes in for about €5. They are handier than lots of one size.
You could buy a much cheaper Lipo,
This one
or this one
will work easily as well as the Tattu ones.
When you order from Hobbyking be sure that everything you buy is from the EU warehouse or UK, try to get all parts from one place, don’t buy anything that is only in the International warehouse as that is in China and takes ages to arrive. Everything else looks fine. Don’t forget Linkage stoppers and some 55-60mm wide wheels for undercarriage if you are using it.
 
#15
I ordered everything, followed all your advice. (y)

I just realized that the ORANGERX R620X V2 I ordered was CPPM. It was out of stock at HobbyKing, but it was the SBUS version they were selling. I just read about the 2 protocols and sent an email to the shop asking them to swap the product.

Thank you so much FDS, you've been really helpful. I will obviously give a feedback when I'm done building, or during the process.

I wonder if this thread should not be moved by one of the admins in the scratch builder corner. Can we ping an admin?
 

FDS

Well-known member
#16
The LemonRX DSMX receivers are my favourite, less weight, smaller and cheaper.
Goid luck with the build, hope it all goes together OK.
 
#17
The LemonRX DSMX receivers are my favourite, less weight, smaller and cheaper.
Goid luck with the build, hope it all goes together OK.
Hey mate, I received almost everything, built a good part of the plane already. But I just realized that this motor has to be mounted against the firewall. Am I supposed to do that ? Or invert reverse the shaft ? This is confusing. Also I have to check how to mount something on the shaft, I thought it would be easy peazy but it's confusing also...
 

FDS

Well-known member
#18
Yes the main bit of the motor mounts to the firewall. You can also use the X mount they supply, the firewall doesn’t have to be drilled like the FT one, I make a square of material the right size for the end of the power pod. Then I draw an X from corner to corner, then you drill a centre hole for the motor shaft if it needs clearance. That gives you the marks to align the X mount for the motor, drill 4 holes for that and fix it to the motor then bolt it to the firewall with M3 nut and bolts. Use a bit of blue threadlock.
Post a picture of the hardware for the motor, they have a collar for the prop sometimes.
 
#19
It's the V2 version of the motor, so it comes with the mounting plate and everything needed. And I think I just figured it out, this beautiful element with 3 holes can actually be mounted in the back and replace the shaft, so if mounted in front of the firewall, the shaft protrudes inside the plane, and the prop can be mounted in front. Am I a genius or did I get it all wrong ?

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