I wanted to see what black looked like so painted that as a first layer. But decided i wanted the original blue. Just waiting for the paint to dry and decals going on from callie. I am somewhat concerned as i got the 1/10 scale size, but oh well.
*Unofficial* FT Corsair
- Thread starter SP0NZ
- Start date
I made up a 4x cell nihm pack from 4200mah 1.2v turnigy cells. Came in at 273g. I put this in the power pod right up against the firewall. Still had to slide the power pod forward so the firewall was even with the front of the plane, but it got cg without having to add any dead weight. Should power the 4 servos for like a week lol. No really.
For charging the battery i added a pretty common part used in slope planes. Its a switch charge jack. When the pigtail is plugged in, it disconnects the receiver and allows you to charge the battery. So to turn the plane "off" you plug it in. As soon as you unplug it the reciever gets power.
I had some old nose cone laying around that looked like it would fit and sanded it up and painted black. Couple big globs of hot glue on the four corners of the firewall and its on pretty good.
And than the decals from callie graphics. Had a few spots where i must not have sanded it well enough and the transfer tape pulled paint up. Once i realized this i would put the decals down, heat it up with an air gun, than slowly pull the transfer tape off. This made a big difference and i had a lot less paint damage. I will have to spray some paint into a cup and paint brush the spots i messed up. At this stage, in the pic below, i have about half the decals on. As i suspected from @Mid7night comments, the 1/10 size decals are a little big for this plane. Some go on just fine but others will not fit at all. Thats ok, ill just put them on the bottom side of the wing and cut the excess off.
After all the decals are on i will do a protective coat of some type to give the decals some sun protection and belly landing protection.
For charging the battery i added a pretty common part used in slope planes. Its a switch charge jack. When the pigtail is plugged in, it disconnects the receiver and allows you to charge the battery. So to turn the plane "off" you plug it in. As soon as you unplug it the reciever gets power.
I had some old nose cone laying around that looked like it would fit and sanded it up and painted black. Couple big globs of hot glue on the four corners of the firewall and its on pretty good.
And than the decals from callie graphics. Had a few spots where i must not have sanded it well enough and the transfer tape pulled paint up. Once i realized this i would put the decals down, heat it up with an air gun, than slowly pull the transfer tape off. This made a big difference and i had a lot less paint damage. I will have to spray some paint into a cup and paint brush the spots i messed up. At this stage, in the pic below, i have about half the decals on. As i suspected from @Mid7night comments, the 1/10 size decals are a little big for this plane. Some go on just fine but others will not fit at all. Thats ok, ill just put them on the bottom side of the wing and cut the excess off.
After all the decals are on i will do a protective coat of some type to give the decals some sun protection and belly landing protection.
So i weighed my corsair last night and its 795g. Anybody remember what theirs weighed?
**edit: Actually i was asking so i could compare my weight with others, but i ended up find in the plans the wing area (355 sq in) and the recommended flying weight (1020g). So knowing already that Josh thought the Corsair had a light wing loading and im 20% less is good to know. Based off those stats and my known weight heres where im at:
wing loading: 11.4oz
wing loading: 11.4oz
Cubic loading: 7.26
calculated stall speed: 16.5mph
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Usafa93
Member
Here's how it turned out with LG. I went with a light blue canopy to hopefully help with orientation in flight. Cant wait to maiden!
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I just received the kit with the precut parts and linkages. Question for you veteran builders - once i popped out the parts they are not flush cut as I would have expected there is considerable shrinkage of the foam from the paper leaving a U shape. Not sure how that works to glue together with hot glue - is it normal on these precut kits to have that much recession or shrinkage from the paper at the cut lines See attached pictures
seems like i would need to trim some of the parts to make them flush for better gluing which ands more time and it why I ordered it precut any thoughts ?
seems like i would need to trim some of the parts to make them flush for better gluing which ands more time and it why I ordered it precut any thoughts ?
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JTarmstr
Elite member
Yes, it occurs in all the laser cut kits I bought. When I got the kit, my foam recession wasn't quite as bad as that, however it was still noticeable. I just made sure that the parts with recession had a bit of extra glue, didnt trim anything off. I dont think it causes major issues and all my parts fit together well, except for the cowl/motor mount, you have to be careful with that.
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Kyle124rombo
Member
Wildthing
Legendary member
That's cool, do you have a link to your motor and prop setup?
usaserres
Active member
Bought the motors on ebay at:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Patent-Ite...660161&hash=item26188dafdd:g:D6kAAOSwnTdZ9~V5
They have multiple versions of motors.
On mine, prop size were 8x4. The motor comes with 8x4 props but they are a bit too flexible so I replaced them by MR series 8x4.5 master-airscrew props which are way better.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Patent-Ite...660161&hash=item26188dafdd:g:D6kAAOSwnTdZ9~V5
They have multiple versions of motors.
On mine, prop size were 8x4. The motor comes with 8x4 props but they are a bit too flexible so I replaced them by MR series 8x4.5 master-airscrew props which are way better.
![IMG_9255[1].JPG](https://ftforumx2.s3.amazonaws.com/2019/07/240812_8143acb5e2eed8b3f8f02a9f372042e1.jpg "IMG_9255[1].JPG")
Wildthing
Legendary member
Good luck on the maiden
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