Why?

[NightFox77]

I recently built the Bloody Baron plane and also purchased the power pack C kit for it as well, but for some reason something doesn't quite add up under a complete kit. Why didn't they include everything to get you flying? So lost right now, dont know what I need in connecting the battery?

 

[ZoomNBoom]

You bought a power pack with an XT60 connector, (yellow one) that can handle high currents. Your battery is intended for smaller planes drawing less current, as such it has an JST connector, that red one. You'll need to change one or the other (or get an adapter cable or get a XT60 battery if you really cant solder. But in that case Id say, learn it, you'll need to anyway).

 

[Balu]

You might also be able to go to a local hobbyshop and ask them to solder the XT60 connector to your battery. Most batteries I buy don't have any type of connector, because there are a lot to choose from. XT60 seems to be quite widespread though.

 

[Gryf]

Most Hobby King batteries and equipment defaults to XT60, if that helps.

Gryf

 

[RAM]

Maybe FT needs to add adapters to their inventory. Recommended parts should be plug and play as much as possible considering the new pilots needs.

 

[Craftydan]

to add a minor point . . .

That motor/prop at full throttle will suck that battery dry with a battery-puffing vigor. Even if the adapter was sold, you DON'T want to use it.

There's a reason that pack (as well as many others similarly rated ) come fitted with a JST connector.

FT's 2s/3s 800mAh batteries are on the small side, but they're only intended to power the mighty-mini airframes and the smaller power systems. Perhaps that should be stated, but as others have mentioned, go with the bigger power system -- you will need to source your batteries elsewhere (in fairness, it appears from a recent email they are partnering with luminer and may be providing batteries from them -- if they do, one of their packs could very well be a suitable power source for that combo).

 

[Pig007]

Although FT tries their best to get you up in the air, they are not RTF's. You still need at least a battery, Receiver and Transmitter. If your new I suggest posting in the forum what you would like to build and you will get a ton of help from the community to ensure you get compatible parts. I run http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...200mah_3S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack_AR_Warehouse_.html and had great success for the price. I get almost 15 minutes of flight time flying aggressively.

One other tip is if you end up putting the battery inside the power pod make sure your battery cant hit the screws or the shaft of the motor if you auger it. If you dont protect it you will have a nice little fire in your wreckage.

 

[kulens]

My personal advice, get rid of the red (JST) connector. I don't trust those connectors! I had 2 batteries with those connectors. 1 of them didn't want to charge any more because of a bad connection. The other made my glider crash during take-off, also because of a bad connection! So I've replaced all my connectors with the Deans (http://www.rcheliwiki.com/Deans_connectors)

 

[nerdnic]

to add a minor point . . .

That motor/prop at full throttle will suck that battery dry with a battery-puffing vigor. Even if the adapter was sold, you DON'T want to use it.

There's a reason that pack (as well as many others similarly rated ) come fitted with a JST connector.

FT's 2s/3s 800mAh batteries are on the small side, but they're only intended to power the mighty-mini airframes and the smaller power systems. Perhaps that should be stated, but as others have mentioned, go with the bigger power system -- you will need to source your batteries elsewhere (in fairness, it appears from a recent email they are partnering with luminer and may be providing batteries from them -- if they do, one of their packs could very well be a suitable power source for that combo).

FT has an 800mah listed as the needed battery for the Baron. To my knowledge the battery pictured is the 800 they sell in the store. Sadly this is pretty misleading for a new pilot. I hope the luminer partnership can correct this misguidance.

 

[nerdnic]

Nightfox,

Best thing to do is buy a bigger battery. This one will work and be plug and play:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...Flightmax_1500mAh_3S1P_20C_US_Warehouse_.html

 

[Craftydan]

FT has an 800mah listed as the needed battery for the Baron. To my knowledge the battery pictured is the 800 they sell in the store. Sadly this is pretty misleading for a new pilot. I hope the luminer partnership can correct this misguidance.

Hmmm . . . not on the store listing. perhaps that's for the better

Then again it *sorta* makes sense on the B pack. An 800mAh 20C pack makes no sense on the C pack -- WAY too small of a battery for that power system -- not that a new builder would know that. The bloody whatever series airframes will happily tow up some hefty batteries anyways (mine regularly fly on 3S 2200's). I suppose it's an advantage it can pull anything from an 800mAh pack to a 2200mAh, depending on the demands the motor/prop.

 

[FlyingMonkey]

Hi... I'm Fred

I've been providing both live, AND email customer support for the store recently. It's been fun, and I get to meet lots of the fans who want to support the show while getting themselves cool gear.

I'm going to let anyone reading this thread in on a secret.

The Flite Test store has a feature at the bottom of each (most...) product page(s) where they list the suggested items for each build. There's a whole list. With links! Links to the products the store has, AND links to similar products that other shops carry. You don't even have to buy the stuff from the store, they'll tell you where you can get it if you want to shop around.

Even with this, my most common question after "who am I talking to, is this Josh?" is "what do I need to build this airplane?"

I'm not trying to talk myself out of a job by telling people how to get the answers for themselves, without needing the chat, or the email, but... why waste the time waiting for a response, when the information is just a short mouse drag away?

Because really... who actually wants to talk to me if they don't have to?

 

[nerdnic]

The article and plans show the 800 recommendation. I flew mine on a 2200 also and it was fine but I could see it being an issue for a new pilot.

 

[FlyingMonkey]

Thanks Nick. I didn't see it on the plans, and I can't fix them. But I edited the article to explain it better.

 

[nerdnic]

Cool. Looks like Dan fixed the plans - they now show 1300-2200.

 

[Torf]

FT has an 800mah listed as the needed battery for the Baron. To my knowledge the battery pictured is the 800 they sell in the store. Sadly this is pretty misleading for a new pilot. I hope the luminer partnership can correct this misguidance.

It's not totally misleading...

FT sells Power Pack B with JST connectors, and that power pack and battery is suitable for the Baron. My flights with a Zippy 850 mAh 3S battery are about 10 minutes with that "B" Emax CF2822 motor and a 8x4 prop. Granted, it isn't a super high performance plane when setup like that, but it's pretty aerobatic just the same.

 

[razor02097]

That battery appears to be one for a park flier. As Craftydan said that battery will be insufficient. You will damage that battery under high load. If you use an 800mAh battery you will need one rated AT LEAST 35C preferably 40C or more. I run 1300mAh 25c batteries on most of my planes. I have had good luck with them... here is a link

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8936__Turnigy_1300mAh_3S_25C_Lipo_Pack.html

They are good for about 32 amp draw continuously.

Make sure you have a decent balance charger so your batteries last.

 

[HawkMan]

That battery appears to be one for a park flier. As Craftydan said that battery will be insufficient. You will damage that battery under high load. If you use an 800mAh battery you will need one rated AT LEAST 35C preferably 40C or more. I run 1300mAh 25c batteries on most of my planes. I have had good luck with them... here is a link

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8936__Turnigy_1300mAh_3S_25C_Lipo_Pack.html

They are good for about 32 amp draw continuously.

Make sure you have a decent balance charger so your batteries last.

32 amps continuously is right up where it's rated at, generally with at least the cheaper batteries and not the expensive brand name batteries sold with warranties, I would subtract at least 5 if not 10C from the rating depending on others experience and reputation.

For a smaller battery like that taking of 5 makes it 21A. which seems about right and something it should be able to do without puffing.

 

[razor02097]

32 amps continuously is right up where it's rated at, generally with at least the cheaper batteries and not the expensive brand name batteries sold with warranties, I would subtract at least 5 if not 10C from the rating depending on others experience and reputation.

For a smaller battery like that taking of 5 makes it 21A. which seems about right and something it should be able to do without puffing.

Back when I first built my 250 quad I flew it with a Turnigy 1300 25C without it puffing. Granted it got quite warm, I was probably pulling well over 30 amps but only being able to handle 21A? I kind of doubt that.

 

[Capt_Beavis]

The B pack has a JST connector, the C pack needs an XT60. Is that is a 3s 800mAh I wouldn't fly it without a voltage alarm attached. I fly mine with a 1300mAh 3s and I get about 10min flight times. If you have a good hobby shop in the area see what they have for 1300-2200mAh 3s with an EC3 or XT60 connector. On the plus side, you have a great battery for your next Mighty Mini.