zmr 250 kit plus 4mm arms upgrade.

[jipp]

yeah i have a taranis. not used it yet.. figure on my next build i will.

im 99 percent sure i need to ream the props.. once it goes down to the base of the bell housing it will be fine.

im sorta confused. the china add says 5mm then oboes into SAE.. yeah take a measurement of your 1806.

well you can get the same SAI version here in the states. i think i may order one and see ifi t works.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Great-Plane...614253?hash=item2ed94418ad:g:CxAAAOSw~1FUXrK7



that space that you see in the picture would give me the needed space im missing to secure the props using the nyloc aluminum.. so im 99 percent sure i need the reamer.. maybe the molds are still new for these small 4" props hence why iv not experience this in other genfan props iv tried?

sigh, i cant sleep.

i guess i can start building my martian 230mm 5" props cough **5646765765** on paper that is as no parys for oasapoi[

 

[jipp]

well i took a chance i ordered a prop reamer.. we all need one in our tool box.. its not if its when you need one correct? sorta like prop balancers i guess.

now this 180mm is idle till that gets here.. on wens day my 7" fpv monitor will be here. then i will play with that and the zmr 250FPV.

now i just have to wait for my martian 230mm frame to get here:

http://www.goodluckbuy.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=117951


that will be my next build.. i do not see my self building anything smaller than 180mm for a while.. my skills need to keep improving so i can improve my rat-nest syndrome. heh. which you must have a cure for to build neat smaller builds.


i figure the martian 230 is going to be a 4s capable.. 2204-2206 motor size.
i will go ahead and give NAZE a go. it is a true racing frame after all.. so may as well dive in and see how it differs from cc3d. ( im also gonna use this frame as a excuse to force my self into the taranis radio.. so yeah.. there is that too )
i will order the battery rubber pad, and LED ring from soma.. send a few bucks his way since i can not justify the full price for a real
alien. but i am curious about the X configuration so hell yeah ill spend the 42.00 a try.
5" props may even try some tri-blades too.
LEDS, may as well play with the led since soma add the code to plug into the CLI.
i will use the camera soma recommends on the aliens webpage the enclosed unit.
so yeah ill buy the fpv camera from him.. for VTX, ill probably get one that has the 8 race bands so that part is cover.
and 30amp ESC. since i am considering the emax red bottom motors and they draw 2-3 amps more than RCX 2205s v 2.. which is my other consideration.


untill that gets here i guess i will work on moding the HK quanton v2 DIY goggles by adding a external fpv camera.. i had mike print me the 3d parts to make add it.. got the parts of thingverse.. looks like it will make doing this mod easy and also help protect the parts.. the camera i will be using is a cheap dal brand board cam.

also it will be nice having the 7" fpv monitor so i can test fpv stuff with out having to "he puts the goggles on and takes the lotion off the basket" heh.

well that is where im at.. i will start a new thread when the martian build starts. for now ill keep using this as a active blog

im just glad my flying and building techniques are improving with each build.

 

[jipp]

well i cant sleep yet again, my leg is killing me and swellig up too.. at this rate il probably have a hreat attack before i can say damn... heh anyhow, i was bored so i figure id see what props i had would fit on the rcx 1806 shafts.. sure enough every prop i tried minus the 4" gemfan bullnose job. sigh.. anyhow i thnk today i will cut up some of my cheap 6" gemfans and turn them into some 4" bullnose.. i figure ill just use a exacto blade.. so looks like i will be able to work on the 180 some more while i wait for the

 

[BankNYank!]

Hey jipp! Glad to see you back in the forum again! I guess you got the computer issue sorted?

Your build is looking great! It looks like your developing your building skills nicely!

im 99 percent sure i need to ream the props.. once it goes down to the base of the bell housing it will be fine.

I thought the prop was just tight on the shaft but it's actually coming out too tall. I've heard others having this same issue on these smaller motors but the solution is to use a low profile screw and I see you already have one on there. So yeah, I guess your only other option is to ream out a little on the base of the prop so it'll sit down against the bell better. Well, that or try sanding some height off the center hub of the prop. Just make sure it's flat and your not sanding into the blades!

anyhow i thnk today i will cut up some of my cheap 6" gemfans and turn them into some 4" bullnose.. i figure ill just use a exacto blade..

If you want to cut props I highly recommend making up some sort of jig. Do you have a dremel/rotary tool? If so I can print up a jig and get it sent out to you tomorrow. If not you can still use a utility blade but it's a lot harder and it is very important that you get both blades exactly the same length. If you have to do it by hand then I recommend taking a paint stirrer or some other flat stick and put a hole through it then put a screw or bolt through the stick that you can put the prop onto but make sure the diameter is as close as possible to the hole in the prop. Then mark a spot on your stick at four inches. This way you can put the prop on the stick and easily make sure both blades are the same length. If you get them close then you can use sand paper to take down the longer one until they are even. In this instance a prop balancer is highly recommended!

 

[jipp]

Hey jipp! Glad to see you back in the forum again! I guess you got the computer issue sorted?

Your build is looking great! It looks like your developing your building skills nicely!



I thought the prop was just tight on the shaft but it's actually coming out too tall. I've heard others having this same issue on these smaller motors but the solution is to use a low profile screw and I see you already have one on there. So yeah, I guess your only other option is to ream out a little on the base of the prop so it'll sit down against the bell better. Well, that or try sanding some height off the center hub of the prop. Just make sure it's flat and your not sanding into the blades!



If you want to cut props I highly recommend making up some sort of jig. Do you have a dremel/rotary tool? If so I can print up a jig and get it sent out to you tomorrow. If not you can still use a utility blade but it's a lot harder and it is very important that you get both blades exactly the same length. If you have to do it by hand then I recommend taking a paint stirrer or some other flat stick and put a hole through it then put a screw or bolt through the stick that you can put the prop onto but make sure the diameter is as close as possible to the hole in the prop. Then mark a spot on your stick at four inches. This way you can put the prop on the stick and easily make sure both blades are the same length. If you get them close then you can use sand paper to take down the longer one until they are even. In this instance a prop balancer is highly recommended!

hi yeah i do have a rotary tool.. ill take ya up on your offer.. so please make me one .. the reaming is not working so well.
so im gonna end up having to just cut down props till i find a brand that has a small center section.

i was expecting a 7" fpv monitor to be here.. but it seems to have been lost in the mail.. so i have to decide to have my money return or have him/her resend the 7" monitor. obv i want the monitor so ill just wait. heh

i was looking at the props. and yeah the size is much thicker robust on the 4" props.. which does not make any sense.. because you would think that is what you would want on your 6" model since that is the biggest complaint for gemnfams.. breaking at the hub when you gas it with 4s etc.

by the way do you remmeber the url to the 3d part you printed for the board camera to the hobby king v2 goggles.. iv been searching thinguniverse and i can not find it... but man so many cool new items that wold be fun to try..

also i thinmk banggood in the USA has the best ZMR 250 frame on the market right now.. 5mm arms.. and priced at 31 bucks. you can get 5mm, 4mm , and 3mm arms all in the USA store for under 31.00

looks like i will be building at least one more zmr 250 as you see, i have a zmr PDB plate with mini os.

it should make for a clean build and i have the pdb/ etc already.. so yeah down the road i see my self building 0one more zmr.. laughs.. what can i say its a good frame, it works and the price is right.. and with the upgraded carbon/size of arms it has come a long way from its cheap quality maybe carbon copy of a black out.. to a respectable quad you can bash around.. so im happy the market has upgraded to good carbon and thicker arm options. and tons of 3d printed parts for it. i was thinking maybe a half build would be cool even.


http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1154323
here is the half build im thinking for my last zmr build for a while.. with 5mm arms, zmr pdb, ETC.
a project o think about after the 230 martian.
chris.

 

[BankNYank!]

I don't seem to get alerts anymore for subscribed threads. Well, I do but they can be weeks late! Anyway, I just decided to check this thread and saw your post.

I'll see if I can find the link for those Quanum v2 parts. I'm sure I still have the files saved. I'll have to dig through my stl folder and find it for you if that's what you need.

I can print that zmr spacer kit for you that you linked at the end of your post and I'll get you a dremel tool prop cutter printed out too!

Cheers!

 

[BankNYank!]

All the frame is in carbon?If I enter the components of this drone in this frame it could come out a great racing drone?

If your looking for a race quad then I'd say no, the one you linked is probably not what you are looking for. Generally a racing quad has anything nonessential stripped off it so things like gimbals would not be present.

If your truly wanting a racing quad your best bet is to build one. This way you can select the components you want for your personal style. If you are looking to save money then building is also your best way to go as you can research and find the best price and get the components you are wanting.

If you want a pre-built ready to fly machine then the eachine racer is a good place to start but keep in mind it's not as durable and won't hold up as well as the more expensive models will.

Another ready to fly package and probably one of the more desirable among ARF mini quads is the Vortex Pro. It is going to be more durable and has the capabilities to do a lot more and will push your skills a lot further than the eachine racer.

There are other mini quads available and others may chime in with their opinion. But I highly recommend you make a new thread with your question there so we don't hijack this thread while answering your questions.

Cheers!

 

[BankNYank!]

But for components as GPS, motors.. is the same? And can you do a comparison between zmr250 and eachine racer 250?Thanks very much

Myself and others will be more than happy to answer all your questions but first I recommend you start your own thread so this one can stay on topic!

 

[jipp]

i ordered some props from a shop here in AZ.. and these 4" props have a little indent in the top of them for the low lock nuts to mount down into. so i guess for these rcx 1806s they will have to do. i would not recommend these motors for 4" they are more suited to 5", and 6" props because of the shaft length.. not sure why the center section on the 5", 6" props are lower then on 4" but it seems to be that with the several brands of 4" iv tried.. but this one with the dish for the nut to lay in is the best iv found..

chris.

 

[FPVology]

Looks great man! I'm loving the Alien, but can't wait to get my hands on a little 180. They just seem like too much fun.

 

[jipp]

thanks. yeah 180 are pretty nimble.. i have a martian alien clone coming.. should be fun to compare it to these zmr 250,180 frames.

but with increase in battery price to come.. sorta wondering if should just cut my loses now..
im collecting parts for a bartop mame cab right now

chris.

 

[jipp]

ooo look what came in the mail today. i will start a new thread when i start this frame.. as its not ZMR related.. but no point starting a build thread till i get parts for it..

this is the first frame i bought that came with instructions.. amazing! the 4mm arms are good carbon.. im impressed with this quality of the martian frame.. its official name would be i guess reptile martian 230 5" race quad? shrugs..













cheers.
chris.

 

[Cyberdactyl]

Cool. Looking forward to your impression.

 

[jipp]

will do man. now i have to decide how im gonna set this up.. I figure ill set it up so it can do 4s if i choose too.. but will just stick with 3s 1300s since i have 6 of them.

im thinking 2204-2205 size.
30amp ESC, stock PDB since its very nice.. but will need to drop the voltage.
fpv gear ill just make sure it can run off 5v.. that way i only need one 5v BEC/or voltage dropper ie.. poulu. ( i have one left so maybe i can figure out how to attach it. )
i do have a bascom vxt already 200mw.. but i may consider the fpvninja 200mw VTX since its smaller and 40ch. and ill use a fatshark mushroom antenna.


ill use a battery trap from gotheli in AZ.. they have a real cool rubber coating on one side of the velcro. this will grip to the battery very well.

i i keep looking on the alien web page to buy the LED they sell to use with this. and if im capable of getting the LED>. i will go with a naze 32. not sure what version.. maybe one of the newer SP3 units. i do have one naze ver 5 already. i assume it should be able to handle the LED code too. also i am sorta afraid of using a naze since iv never used it.. but it sorta makes sense to use it with this.

also i plan on using the rubber battery pad alien sells.. but im not gonna order until i know i can get a LED too no point wasting money on shipping for a 4.00 part.

props i may try some 5" tri-blades.. but i do have some 5" here so we will have to figure that out as it comes..

so i have a mental vision of this build already. just have to figure out what parts i want to buy or should i just go cheap and use what i have.. shrugs.


chris.

 

[jipp]

hey guys i would want 4 of these correct?

EMAX RS2205 2600KV Red Bottom Motor for FPV Racing - CCW


http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=505_506_599&products_id=5290

this should be ok on 3s 1300 or so till i upgrade to 4s down the road, yeah?
im pretty sure i want for of the CCW. with a low profile nyloc nut.

thanks guys. i need to motivate my self at this low point in my time line.
so may as will build this martian i have the funds waiting for it so... lets rock and roll.

chris.

 

[pilot1]

hey guys i would want 4 of these correct?

EMAX RS2205 2600KV Red Bottom Motor for FPV Racing - CCW


http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=505_506_599&products_id=5290

this should be ok on 3s 1300 or so till i upgrade to 4s down the road, yeah?
im pretty sure i want for of the CCW. with a low profile nyloc nut.

thanks guys. i need to motivate my self at this low point in my time line.
so may as will build this martian i have the funds waiting for it so... lets rock and roll.

chris.

If you want the 2300kv motors you can get them for $15.99 from gearbest
Just use coupon code APMT1 at checkout
CW http://www.gearbest.com/multi-rotor-parts/pp_300512.html…
CCW http://www.gearbest.com/multi-rotor-parts/pp_300511.html…

 

[Snarls]

hey guys i would want 4 of these correct?

Hey Chris. Make sure its the 2600kv that you want. The 2600kv are more for swinging 4" props on 4s while the 2300kv is more for swinging 5" props on 4s. Check out Oscar's prop data if you are interested.

Make sure that you get two CW and two CCW. Yeah its annoying to deal with counterclockwise nuts, but these motors have a special design that helps cool the motor. If they spin the wrong way they will overheat easier.

Also if you want to save a little, Gearbest has a sale as Pilot says.

 

[jipp]

If you want the 2300kv motors you can get them for $15.99 from gearbest
Just use coupon code APMT1 at checkout
CW http://www.gearbest.com/multi-rotor-parts/pp_300512.html…
CCW http://www.gearbest.com/multi-rotor-parts/pp_300511.html…

404. also gearbest is in china yeah?

 

[jipp]

Hey Chris. Make sure its the 2600kv that you want. The 2600kv are more for swinging 4" props on 4s while the 2300kv is more for swinging 5" props on 4s. Check out Oscar's prop data if you are interested.

Make sure that you get two CW and two CCW. Yeah its annoying to deal with counterclockwise nuts, but these motors have a special design that helps cool the motor. If they spin the wrong way they will overheat easier.

Also if you want to save a little, Gearbest has a sale as Pilot says.

darn, i was afraid of that.. but i guess it makes sense.. and of course they are out of 2300 in cw.

i will collect my thoughts this after noon and see if i can not track down. im just having a bad month, pain is off the freaking scale.. so i apologize in advance for any quick witted, or snarky remarks in advance i may make. i think im just gonna go full bore on this alien clone.. its only money right. so i figure ill try some kiss esc and it seems i would be stupid not to run dRonin so that helps with picking a FC.. maybe i should use the sparky II for this build.

ok, i hope everyone has a great morning, and were able to sleep in.

chris.

 

[jipp]

Hey Chris. Make sure its the 2600kv that you want. The 2600kv are more for swinging 4" props on 4s while the 2300kv is more for swinging 5" props on 4s. Check out Oscar's prop data if you are interested.

Make sure that you get two CW and two CCW. Yeah its annoying to deal with counterclockwise nuts, but these motors have a special design that helps cool the motor. If they spin the wrong way they will overheat easier.

Also if you want to save a little, Gearbest has a sale as Pilot says.

thanks again for pointing out i need one in CW,CCW. the whole cooling thing from there first marketing of such seem a little bit of a gimmick to me since there budget motors did not seem to get to hot.. and the price difference between cooling and regular was almost a 50 percent increase.

then jump in time 6 month i guess and these nifty fat bottom girls show sporting red nickers. and the price is the same as the first run of self cooling motors with a red racing stripe so you know it has to be faster than its competition... red stripes make everything go 50 times faster its just quantum physicist, do

anyhow, thanks again.


now its time to think about spending more money. this is probably gonna be my most expensive quad to date.
i think since these are capable of drawing high amps. i need to by my first set of F1 racing esc. besides it will be nice to know how well these KISS fly compared to every other ESC since it seems it is the industry standard for how a quad esc should do its job.. no matter what special sauce each company uses as long as they have esc that are on part, people seem to be quite happy.

now im a crippled so money is always tight, i did come into a extra 200.00 i normally would not have. the way my health is going this month i could die tomorrow for all i know... and i sure and the heck cant take anything with me so im calling a mulligan, and gonna order some KISS esc for this build.. also since these motors can draw some major amps, seems you need the best esc money can get to protect your go power interest anyhow....

now the question which KISS esc would you recommend for these red bottoms and were do you normally order from? is ordering directly from him quicker than china for example? id sure hope so. could anyone help me out here? im assuming i would want a 30a esc.. but im not sure. also its a good idea to order 1 extra esc from him too since these are not noob friendly. heh.