2017/2018 Balsa Build Along, SIG HOG BIPE ELECTRIC CONVERSION
- Thread starter nhk750
- Start date
nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
I'm thinking about a yellow, black and silver color scheme. I need my color schemes designed so I can easily tell orientation, so I may have some black and yellow checkers on the bottom wingtips also. I need to find a way to see the color schemes on the computer, maybe Photoshop?
nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
BI-PLANE WING ALIGNMENT
Since I had the model "in the bones" it would be a good idea to align the wings, check the incidence, decalage and drill the interplane struts. For some reason Sig has you do these steps after covering the model towards the end of the build. In my opinion, this should be done way before you cover or finish the model so you have a chance to correct any problems early on.
The incidence for this model is 0 deg for all wings and horizontal stabilizer. Using the Robart incidence meter everything was checked and came out perfectly, so I drilled and bolted the interplane struts, making sure there is a small gap between the wings and interplane struts to account for covering and to resist binding (per the plans). I also measured and set the top wing to match the bottom between the wings and to the tail, also checking visually the leading edges to make sure they matched.
I also drilled out some 4-40 blind nuts and will install them in the interplane struts so there will be some built in washers and protection from wear to the light ply that the interplane struts are made from.
Meanwhile, work continues on the horizontal stabilizer. There was a lot of Titebond II applied to the frame when gluing on the sheeting, so I am letting it sit under some magazines on my flat building board for a few days, while I do other work, to resist warping while the moisture dries out of the glue.
Since I had the model "in the bones" it would be a good idea to align the wings, check the incidence, decalage and drill the interplane struts. For some reason Sig has you do these steps after covering the model towards the end of the build. In my opinion, this should be done way before you cover or finish the model so you have a chance to correct any problems early on.
The incidence for this model is 0 deg for all wings and horizontal stabilizer. Using the Robart incidence meter everything was checked and came out perfectly, so I drilled and bolted the interplane struts, making sure there is a small gap between the wings and interplane struts to account for covering and to resist binding (per the plans). I also measured and set the top wing to match the bottom between the wings and to the tail, also checking visually the leading edges to make sure they matched.
I also drilled out some 4-40 blind nuts and will install them in the interplane struts so there will be some built in washers and protection from wear to the light ply that the interplane struts are made from.
Meanwhile, work continues on the horizontal stabilizer. There was a lot of Titebond II applied to the frame when gluing on the sheeting, so I am letting it sit under some magazines on my flat building board for a few days, while I do other work, to resist warping while the moisture dries out of the glue.
Last edited:
nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
I worked on the horizontal stab a bit more tonight and the elevators. I opened up the elevator gap, as others suggested, to give the rudder a bit more throw for more authority. I only took off about 1/4" on each side so not much but it will make a difference. I still need to sand the edges to round them.
nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
Working on the horizontal stabilizer and the rudder this weekend. I am just about done with the main construction and will be ready to cover it soon. I have decided to glue on the tail feathers before covering it, I could cover then glue the tail on, but it is no big deal to cover around the tail as I have done that before. I wont glue on the control surfaces until it's covered though. I'm actually hitting a little burn out on the project (as I have been working on it everyday since November) and the sun coming out has got me flying more, but I will finish this probably around April or so.
Before I epoxy on the tail feathers I will need to disassemble everything so I can balsa fill (some dings and minor gaps) and finish the sanding on the fuselage as I don't want to manhandle the fuse to much and risk damaging the tail.
All the control surfaces have Robart hinge pins installed, but on the rudder I decided to install Dubro nylon hinges as the rudder is thinner than the Horizontal stabilizer and the 1/8" Robart's wont work on it. I could use 1/2A (3/32") Robart's, but I had the Dubro's on hand they will work great. I like Robart's just as much as the Dubro's as they seem to be just a hard to install and are both very sturdy hinges.
You will notice I had to relocate the bottom hinge on the rudder a little higher than the plans as it will interfere with the control horn fasteners. Sig has you using CA hinges and they want you to drill through the CA hinge when mounting the control horn.
Before I epoxy on the tail feathers I will need to disassemble everything so I can balsa fill (some dings and minor gaps) and finish the sanding on the fuselage as I don't want to manhandle the fuse to much and risk damaging the tail.
All the control surfaces have Robart hinge pins installed, but on the rudder I decided to install Dubro nylon hinges as the rudder is thinner than the Horizontal stabilizer and the 1/8" Robart's wont work on it. I could use 1/2A (3/32") Robart's, but I had the Dubro's on hand they will work great. I like Robart's just as much as the Dubro's as they seem to be just a hard to install and are both very sturdy hinges.
You will notice I had to relocate the bottom hinge on the rudder a little higher than the plans as it will interfere with the control horn fasteners. Sig has you using CA hinges and they want you to drill through the CA hinge when mounting the control horn.
Last edited:
nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
Epoxy horizontal stabilizer
I dismantled the parts down to the fuse, filled some small gaps and holes with Hobbylight balsa filler, then sanded the fuse and the rounded the bottom edges per the directions. Then went over the fuse lightly with some 220 and before I cover it I will hit it with some 400-500 grit then vacuum clean the wood. I think I'm going to try some Ultracote on this model and yellow fuse with black bottom wings, yellow on top of wings and some yellow and black checkers on the bottom wingtips and tail.
Anyway, I epoxied on the horizontal stablizer with some 30 min and clamped in place. I'm going to let it cure and install the verticle stabalizer tomorrow. I measured from the wing tips to the stab tips and sited to the bottom wing for level (I also checked measurments all over to double check everything) and everything looks really good.
I dismantled the parts down to the fuse, filled some small gaps and holes with Hobbylight balsa filler, then sanded the fuse and the rounded the bottom edges per the directions. Then went over the fuse lightly with some 220 and before I cover it I will hit it with some 400-500 grit then vacuum clean the wood. I think I'm going to try some Ultracote on this model and yellow fuse with black bottom wings, yellow on top of wings and some yellow and black checkers on the bottom wingtips and tail.
Anyway, I epoxied on the horizontal stablizer with some 30 min and clamped in place. I'm going to let it cure and install the verticle stabalizer tomorrow. I measured from the wing tips to the stab tips and sited to the bottom wing for level (I also checked measurments all over to double check everything) and everything looks really good.
roversgonemad
Member
That’s s great looking build. Nice work! Did the instructions specify to glue on the tail surfaces prior to covering? I frequently cover then do final assembly. I’ve found it keeps me from breaking as many things during the covering process. But then I a bit clumsy....:black_eyed:
I think mine will get built next winter. I need to run the Saito FA-100 that I have slated for it. I replaced push rods and push rod covers, so it needs a run to verify it’s all good again.
I think mine will get built next winter. I need to run the Saito FA-100 that I have slated for it. I replaced push rods and push rod covers, so it needs a run to verify it’s all good again.
nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
The directions weren't very clear, they say "time for covering" then the next step is mounting the stabs. I like to cover after mounting the stabs that way I can overlap the covering in the corners and make it look more seamless.
I also want to fully assemble the plane, before I cover it, to set up the weight and balance (easier to do the course adjustment without covering, then do the final weight adjustments after covering) and the tail needs to be finished before I can do that. plus, it will make for a cool picture "in the bones" fully.
I also want to fully assemble the plane, before I cover it, to set up the weight and balance (easier to do the course adjustment without covering, then do the final weight adjustments after covering) and the tail needs to be finished before I can do that. plus, it will make for a cool picture "in the bones" fully.
nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
Actually, yes, it gets blocks of wood glued in place after being carved to shape. And it makes it very nice looking.
a. Place the 5/8"x5/8"x6" balsa filler blocks on either side of the fin. Mark the profile of former F-8 on the front of both filler blocks.
b. Carve and sand each block to match the traced shape of F-8 and the tapered shape shown on the plans. Check the fit and
shape of both parts with the assembled fuselage, stabilizer and fin. Try for a smooth and even blend from F-8 to the aft
end of each block.
a. Place the 5/8"x5/8"x6" balsa filler blocks on either side of the fin. Mark the profile of former F-8 on the front of both filler blocks.
b. Carve and sand each block to match the traced shape of F-8 and the tapered shape shown on the plans. Check the fit and
shape of both parts with the assembled fuselage, stabilizer and fin. Try for a smooth and even blend from F-8 to the aft
end of each block.
nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
Got the vertical stabilizer glued in (30 min epoxy) and magnetically jigged in place until it cures. It is square with the HS and looking good so far. I found that my fuse had a very minor twist to it in the tail, but I worked the stabilizers square with the wings and paid no mind to the minor imperfection. Just a little sanding on the horizontal stab saddle was all that was needed to align things perfectly.
The plastic wrap on the table helps the magnetic jigs slide around easier to get them into place.
The plastic wrap on the table helps the magnetic jigs slide around easier to get them into place.
Last edited:
nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
Tail feathers on!
The tail looks great and came out lined up square and all that. Now I'm at the point of doing a full assembly, work on installing servos and linkages, testing electronics, weight and balance, then take it apart to cover. So, a whole lot of work left to do...I still need to order covering. Still not sure about wheel pants yet as I fly off grass, but this planes does look nice with them.
The tail looks great and came out lined up square and all that. Now I'm at the point of doing a full assembly, work on installing servos and linkages, testing electronics, weight and balance, then take it apart to cover. So, a whole lot of work left to do...I still need to order covering. Still not sure about wheel pants yet as I fly off grass, but this planes does look nice with them.
