2017/2018 Balsa Build Along, SIG HOG BIPE ELECTRIC CONVERSION
- Thread starter nhk750
- Start date
nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
For those watching and waiting on this project, I'm in a holding pattern until I get my motivation back to finish this plane and I just finished a balsa ARF (Tower Hobbies Sport 60") that I'm going to maiden today. This ARF took my time away from the Hog this past week, plus I'm getting some friction from the wife on all the time I spend on the hobby... Hopefully after Easter I will get back to it.
Yeah... that happens from time to time :black_eyed:
After 23 years of marriage my wife tends to be happier when I'm in the basement working and not bothering her!
nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
I cant wait for that day to come...
roversgonemad
Member
Happy wife, happy life!!!!
Home stretch! Won't be long before the covering is one and it's screaming "fly me!"
nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
Finished the aileron control linkage soldering tonight and dissasembled the airframe to get ready and start the finishing process. I still need to mount the rudder and elevator servos and linkages though. I had a brain malfunction and tried to remove the bottom wing without disconnecting the top wing first, no dammage, but at least I know the interplane connections are very strong...
nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
Sig really doesnt give detailed instructions or pictures on the servo installation for the rudder and elevator so I did my own thing. I didn't like the nylon pushrods that sig provided and the 2-56 steel rod pieces they wanted you to glue into the nylon pushtube on each end didn't fit tightly and I was not going to trust that setup in flight! So, I took a chapter out of my past build with the Great Planes Taylorcraft and used longer 2-56 threaded rod I had lying around, and cut the nylon pushtube up in little pieces, then used ca to glue some of the pieces on the 2-56 rod so it will slide easiely inside the outer pushtube casing. It works great and will be reliable now.
On the left is the nylon pushtube sig wants you to use, on the right is my modification which is much more reliable.
Elevator servo mounted and linkage centered nicely in the pushtube, also moving very freely.
On the left is the nylon pushtube sig wants you to use, on the right is my modification which is much more reliable.
Elevator servo mounted and linkage centered nicely in the pushtube, also moving very freely.
nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
I finally got around to finish soldering and connected everything up to test, and my design works awesome. I wish Sig did a better job here on the instructions, but thanks to some experience I figured out my own path. Hopefully these posts will help some poor soul when they come accross this part of the build.
Look closely at the pictures in the previous post and you will see that the rods are off center a bit, there is a reason for this and you will see as the servo arms go to full deflection the rods got to the other side of the outer tube. That way it all stays nice and smooth throughout the entire range of travel.
Look closely at the pictures in the previous post and you will see that the rods are off center a bit, there is a reason for this and you will see as the servo arms go to full deflection the rods got to the other side of the outer tube. That way it all stays nice and smooth throughout the entire range of travel.
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nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
COVERING STARTED
I did it, amongst everything else that keeps me busy, I started the covering process. Starting with the tail control surfaces to get warmed up I will move on to the fuse next. Checkerboard on the elevator and rudder is just simply lined up straight, I did ponder on doing the diagonal mounting but it made me think to much.
I did it, amongst everything else that keeps me busy, I started the covering process. Starting with the tail control surfaces to get warmed up I will move on to the fuse next. Checkerboard on the elevator and rudder is just simply lined up straight, I did ponder on doing the diagonal mounting but it made me think to much.
nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
I finished the minor fill on the fuse last night and will sand today then start the covering process. I plan on Yellow sides and top, checkerboard bottom and checkerboard or black head rest part. The wings and empennage will be black on the bottom and yellow on top with checkerboard wingtips on the bottom. Not trying to go too crazy on the checkerboard, but I think it will look cool on this plane and it makes it really easy to see orientation, plus not many Hog builders seem to use it.
I really like how the Ultracote is working so far, easy to use. This is only my second covering job, so I'm not sure how to do the fuse yet, maybe bottom first, then sides, then top last, or try to do the top and sides as one piece?
I really like how the Ultracote is working so far, easy to use. This is only my second covering job, so I'm not sure how to do the fuse yet, maybe bottom first, then sides, then top last, or try to do the top and sides as one piece?
The general rule is start at the bottom/rear of the plane and work up/forward. This makes the seams harder to see as you overlap the covering and also makes it less likely a loose seam will grab air and billow open. Sometimes that's far easier said than done. 
Silverdog
Member
What size are the checker's? Pictures and my old eyes deceive me. I'd never get it right, makes my head hurt thinking about it. Was thinking checker's on the Lil' Poke, but now I think I'll go with stripes. Your build was awesome and I'm sure your covering will be the same. Looking forward to more!
That pattern makes me feel like I've been drinking!
It's hard to tell in the picture, but make sure you leave enough overhang for the side sheeting to overlap the bottom a little bit. This helps avoid tiny gaps you'll get if you dry and butt-join the sheets together. Plus the sheet sticks better to itself than it does balsa so you end up with a nice tight envelope of covering around the plane when you're done.
It's hard to tell in the picture, but make sure you leave enough overhang for the side sheeting to overlap the bottom a little bit. This helps avoid tiny gaps you'll get if you dry and butt-join the sheets together. Plus the sheet sticks better to itself than it does balsa so you end up with a nice tight envelope of covering around the plane when you're done.
nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
1/2" squares, and I did overlap about 1/8", so it will test my covering skills to join the yellow covering to the bottom, but I didn't want to much as it might show through. This Ultracote is really precise and easy to use, I love it so far. I really wanted easy orientation vision and this scheme will make that a sure thing.
