36" Northern Pike - 3D Printed Cuda Clone (It Flies & STL's are Posted!)

Peketronics

Junior Member
Hello, i`m printing rigth now with an flsun Q5 with the cura settings file for petg and things look good. Any ways, this will be my first printed build. I wonder if there is a build blog video for this very model? :)
Tnx
 

SSgt Duramax

Junior Member
Hello, i`m printing rigth now with an flsun Q5 with the cura settings file for petg and things look good. Any ways, this will be my first printed build. I wonder if there is a build blog video for this very model? :)
Tnx
He has instructions earlier in this thread. The only real "odd" thing about the build was running the really long ESC wires to the motor all the way back there, and the arrow spar. Other than that, it is pretty straight forward just glueing the pieces together.
 

Peketronics

Junior Member
He has instructions earlier in this thread. The only real "odd" thing about the build was running the really long ESC wires to the motor all the way back there, and the arrow spar. Other than that, it is pretty straight forward just glueing the pieces together.
Yes i`ve read everything already, just was looking for a build vid :)
Tnx
 

TheGreatest_06

New member
Also make sure that you are getting a good "squish" on the first layer. If your nozzle is not close enough to the buildplate, it might extrude the filament too far of the buildplate resulting in the walls and the internal structure not connecting. Try adjusting your bed screws so that your printer's nozzle is closer than you usuallyhave it and see if that works. That seemed to be the problem with mine.

Printed almost entire left side of wing results are same in all of them...
 

Peketronics

Junior Member
I did consider using diamonds. The big issue is that they don't have the same amount of weight removing potential and every gram behind the CG counts big time on a printed plane. If your circles aren't perfect, don't sweat it. Most of the strength comes from the skin and the dovetail joint. The circles in the wings become less and less important for anything other than keeping surface tension as you move up the wing.



I did it that way primarily to add strength to the glue joint. Doubled perimeters mate up much better than single lines. However after printing a bunch of these and seeing how strong the plane is, I may upload a version without the supports for those that want to flip it and print upside down.
Are they available now without support? i had to print it standing cause would not fit in my print bed and also ruins my prints when removing the support.. :( is it possible to remove it my self in tinkercad? just in case you are busy, tinkercad is where my skill level is at rigth now.. :)
 

TheGreatest_06

New member
I seem to be running into issues as well. All the parts were printing well but, over the span of two prints, the print quality of the internal structure is now somehow completely ruined. There seems to be stringing everywhere and the parts are not printing at all. I know it is not a software issure but a hardware one. I have printed the part using the g code created from my settings before and it came out flawlessly. However, when I go to print the same g code now, it is way way worse. I have attached pictures below. In terms of hardware, I have tried switching SD Cards, tightned eccentric nuts on X/Y/Z carriages, tensioned belts, changed nozzle, checked extruder for a blockage (there was none), changed extruder motor with a replacement but nothing seems to be working as of yet. All of the parts I try to print now are trash. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Peketronics

Junior Member
I seem to be running into issues as well. All the parts were printing well but, over the span of two prints, the print quality of the internal structure is now somehow completely ruined. There seems to be stringing everywhere and the parts are not printing at all. I know it is not a software issure but a hardware one. I have printed the part using the g code created from my settings before and it came out flawlessly. However, when I go to print the same g code now, it is way way worse. I have attached pictures below. In terms of hardware, I have tried switching SD Cards, tightned eccentric nuts on X/Y/Z carriages, tensioned belts, changed nozzle, checked extruder for a blockage (there was none), changed extruder motor with a replacement but nothing seems to be working as of yet. All of the parts I try to print now are trash. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
What settings are you using? printer? slicer? material?
 

Peketronics

Junior Member
I seem to be running into issues as well. All the parts were printing well but, over the span of two prints, the print quality of the internal structure is now somehow completely ruined. There seems to be stringing everywhere and the parts are not printing at all. I know it is not a software issure but a hardware one. I have printed the part using the g code created from my settings before and it came out flawlessly. However, when I go to print the same g code now, it is way way worse. I have attached pictures below. In terms of hardware, I have tried switching SD Cards, tightned eccentric nuts on X/Y/Z carriages, tensioned belts, changed nozzle, checked extruder for a blockage (there was none), changed extruder motor with a replacement but nothing seems to be working as of yet. All of the parts I try to print now are trash. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
This are the settings i`m using in my delta printer, i`m having great prints. give them a try. Download the file and change the file extension to .curaprofile
 

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TheGreatest_06

New member
My cura settings are in post 664. Printer is ender 3 with direct drive attachment, solutech natural clear pla 1.75mm. What I was trying to say in my previous post is that I don't think that the problem is with the software. The prints started to detriorate over the span of two prints with the same settings, same filament, same printer, etc. I also tried printing with gcodes i had previously sliced that worked great. The same exact gcodes now don't print as well leading me to think there is something mechanically wrong.
 
Question on the elevon hinge wire, what material did you use? i am guessing that the lighter the material the better so was thinking aluminium or does it really not matter? I live in the UK so trying to find a good place to purchase the correct length, for some reason it all comes in 12 inch lengths which is not very helpful lol.
 

RedStone120

New member
Really nice looking plane. I printed the right wing section 6 and it didn't have any of the supports. Is that just the design or is my slicer not working? I'm using Cura.
 

bortek

New member
Is there a build manual available such that one can follow to build this plane ? I looked through the first pages and some post mention that it would have been available "in the future" but I cannot see it.
 

bortek

New member
Hi guys

I need some help to troubleshoot my build. I cannot get Pike airborne and I think I do not have enough thrust or my CG is way off. I tried to öaunch it twice but it just does not fly up and instead falls down.

Here re my findings together with some pics. From reading up in the forum I understand that I need 1:1 throttle:weight ratio to get Pike airborne and fly vertically. My build weights (all up weight) 1355g. I use Emax Eco II 2400kv motor with BLheli ESC (20) and 4S (2200mAh, 40-50C).

Tested with tri pror 6045L and regular bi prop 6040BN. The throttle I get on max pwm signal from the controller is 500-600g. I am measuring throttle using a weight on the table and plane standing and pushing on it vertically down. Now if this method is correct or not you tella me. But it should be IMO.

My CG is seen on the pics but it is close to the point where it should be according to the markings on the wings. I had to move the battery back a lot to get the CG to that point otherwise the nose was too heavy.

I even tested throttle of my quadcopter arm with a different motor and the same battery and got approx the same throttle rate ~517g.

But something is not right and I think it must be the not enough throttle. Any suggestions is much appreciated.
 

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FlyerInStyle

Elite member
Hi guys

I need some help to troubleshoot my build. I cannot get Pike airborne and I think I do not have enough thrust or my CG is way off. I tried to öaunch it twice but it just does not fly up and instead falls down.

Here re my findings together with some pics. From reading up in the forum I understand that I need 1:1 throttle:weight ratio to get Pike airborne and fly vertically. My build weights (all up weight) 1355g. I use Emax Eco II 2400kv motor with BLheli ESC (20) and 4S (2200mAh, 40-50C).

Tested with tri pror 6045L and regular bi prop 6040BN. The throttle I get on max pwm signal from the controller is 500-600g. I am measuring throttle using a weight on the table and plane standing and pushing on it vertically down. Now if this method is correct or not you tella me. But it should be IMO.

My CG is seen on the pics but it is close to the point where it should be according to the markings on the wings. I had to move the battery back a lot to get the CG to that point otherwise the nose was too heavy.

I even tested throttle of my quadcopter arm with a different motor and the same battery and got approx the same throttle rate ~517g.

But something is not right and I think it must be the not enough throttle. Any suggestions is much appreciated.
what material did you print it in? also a 20a esc is signifantly limited for htat motor, try a 30 or if you want to go crazy wiht it a 40a one and you will sea significant power ncrease, adn also dont forget to calibrate the esc