36" Northern Pike - 3D Printed Cuda Clone (It Flies & STL's are Posted!)

rockyboy

Skill Collector
Mentor
Elevons installed, control rods hooked up, motor on, and one vertical stabilizer almost done right. %@$ printer / slicer didn't close in the tip top of the stabilizer. So I need to run another 4 hour print to fix it, or find some way to get happy with / glue it over.

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rockyboy

Skill Collector
Mentor
Aaaannd here she is - a whole plane!

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95% ready for flight - still need to get the hatch magnets (delivery later this week) and build a little foam pocket for the batteries to sit in (don't want them blasting out through the nose on my first landing).

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Looks pretty neat in the sun - great internal webbing design!

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Sort of crappy 3D printing though... oh well. The lesson here is buy good filament kiddies.

For my first 3D printed plane I'm satisfied enough to go fly her - who knows, might only last one flight! :ROFLMAO:
 

chris398mx

Master member
Aaaannd here she is - a whole plane!

View attachment 168843

95% ready for flight - still need to get the hatch magnets (delivery later this week) and build a little foam pocket for the batteries to sit in (don't want them blasting out through the nose on my first landing).

View attachment 168844

Looks pretty neat in the sun - great internal webbing design!

View attachment 168842

Sort of crappy 3D printing though... oh well. The lesson here is buy good filament kiddies.

For my first 3D printed plane I'm satisfied enough to go fly her - who knows, might only last one flight! :ROFLMAO:
Mine only lasted about 30 seconds on her maiden until I looked down at the transmitter to try to trim her out. when i looked back at the plane i had lost orientation and down she went into a 1000 pieces. I think it would have flown great if i could have gotten it trimmed out. Good luck.
 

rockyboy

Skill Collector
Mentor
Mine only lasted about 30 seconds on her maiden until I looked down at the transmitter to try to trim her out. when i looked back at the plane i had lost orientation and down she went into a 1000 pieces. I think it would have flown great if i could have gotten it trimmed out. Good luck.

Thanks - I hope that if it doesn't fly well, at least I can get a spectacular crash out of it too! :D
 

ereynoso

New member
Thanks - I hope that if it doesn't fly well, at least I can get a spectacular crash out of it too! :D
Hi rockyboy! any news on your maiden flight? I'm currently finishing printing one of those beauties. Can you please tell me what motor/ESC/Bat you have installed? I'm still searching the right powerplant to buy.

Thanks!
 

rockyboy

Skill Collector
Mentor
Hi rockyboy! any news on your maiden flight? I'm currently finishing printing one of those beauties. Can you please tell me what motor/ESC/Bat you have installed? I'm still searching the right powerplant to buy.

Thanks!

I'm running a 7x5 prop, CF-2812 1543kv with a 30 amp esc (overkill, but poor airflow means oversize this baby) and a pair of 3s1300 batteries jammed way up in the nose for balance. However I have no idea if this is going to be a good setup - it should push at a 1:1 thrust ratio, and it came off a wrecked flying wing of about the same size, but she hasn't been in the air yet.

My local RC fields are open again, but covid cases continue to climb around here, and I'm not interested in bringing this deadly disease home to a pair of high-risk people I love. So for the next few months (maybe 6 or 9 - when a viable vaccine or treatment is available) I'm limiting trips away from home to essentials. This is certainly a time where living in a rural area with more places to fly without people would be awesome - but the good side of living in a major metro area is I can get almost everything we need delivered.
 

jorjacho3

New member
any help on my slicer. i don’t know why is not slicing with out the inner reenforce
 

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whackflyer

Master member
any help on my slicer. i don’t know why is not slicing with out the inner reenforce
What printer are you using? On my Ender 3 profile the supports didn't print either, so I switched all my print settings and bed size, print head settings etc over to a Prusa MK2 profile, then everything worked perfectly. I'll quote a couple of old posts that may help you.
Here is a video about how to fix the error message you are getting.

I couldn't get the cura profile to see the thin wall items either so here is what i did. I am using 4.2.1 and haven't updated for fear of it not working again.
I installed a Prusa MK2 printer into cura and used localfiend's profile for that printer, but to make that work, i had to change the settings for the printer back to my ender 3 for build plate and height, plus the settings for the print head. ( i just copied them from the ender 3 settings already in cura) then Ialso had to change some of the print settings for retraction and other ender 3 specific items to get good prints.

If you go this route and want my profile I built up, i can send it to you. I know this sounds like a lot, but it was't that bad. This was the only way I could get Cura to see the inner structures of the wings and print them.

Good luck
Good news! I got it working. Changed my ender 3 settings over to a prusa mk2, then imported @localfiend new cura 4.4 profile. I had some problems with oozing and stringing, so I had to goof with retraction settings for a while, but I just started a fuselage piece and it appears to be doing great!
 

CuberGuy

New member
Trying to get this plane wired up. Is there a diagram somewhere for a plane (like the Northern Pike) that only has a motor and ailerons? All the instructions I'm finding have the ailerons on one channel, and rudder and elevators on other channels. If I just follow the usual method and hook up the ailerons on a single channel, ignoring the rudder and elevators, then will the ailerons still work for adjusting altitude? Or is there a different way of wiring them up?
 

whackflyer

Master member
Trying to get this plane wired up. Is there a diagram somewhere for a plane (like the Northern Pike) that only has a motor and ailerons? All the instructions I'm finding have the ailerons on one channel, and rudder and elevators on other channels. If I just follow the usual method and hook up the ailerons on a single channel, ignoring the rudder and elevators, then will the ailerons still work for adjusting altitude? Or is there a different way of wiring them up?
What brand of TX are you using? You'll have to plug one servo into the elevator port, and one into the aileron port, then select the elevon wing type in your transmitter. After that you can go about setting up throws, D/R and expo like usual.
 

Grauwulf

Member
Trying to get this plane wired up. Is there a diagram somewhere for a plane (like the Northern Pike) that only has a motor and ailerons? All the instructions I'm finding have the ailerons on one channel, and rudder and elevators on other channels. If I just follow the usual method and hook up the ailerons on a single channel, ignoring the rudder and elevators, then will the ailerons still work for adjusting altitude? Or is there a different way of wiring them up?

You will need to set it up to work as a delta wing setup with elevons. What radio are you using?
 

localfiend

I like 3D printers...
Mentor
Working on a new variant. Way easier to build, every part keys together. Electronics can wait until the end of the build, no need to thread wires.

20201118_123504.jpg


It's also modular and pinned together. If you bust a V-Stab, Wing, rear motor section, or front fuselage, you can quickly and easily replace it.

Best part is, thanks to the new foaming filaments like LW-PLA and LW-ASA it's a lot lighter than the previous version.

A little 2204, or even an 1806 motor should work now.

Should also still be printable with normal PLA without issue. I will need to do a test print with PETG to make sure things work out. Weight with standard filaments will be double the LW stuff, but that's still a bit lighter than the first version.
 
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chris398mx

Master member
Working on a new variant. Way easier to build, every part keys together. Electronics can wait until the end of the build, no need to thread wires.

View attachment 183575

It's also modular and pinned together. If you bust a V-Stab, Wing, rear motor section, or front fuselage, you can quickly and easily replace it.

Best part is, thanks to the new foaming filaments like LW-PLA and LW-ASA it's less than half the weight of the previous version. That's at exactly the same size. I'm still tweaking as I print and assemble the prototype, but so far, it's only needed 275 grams of filament for the whole plane. This means even better flight characteristics, easier launching (I think wingtip launching will be possible), and larger motor range.

A little 2204, or even an 1806 motor should work now.

Should also still be printable with normal PLA without issue. I will need to do a test print with PETG to make sure things work out. Weight with standard filaments will be double the LW stuff, but that's still lighter than the first version.

Sounds great!! Keep us posted.
 

localfiend

I like 3D printers...
Mentor
Hah! I'm a moron.
biggrin.gif
It is heavier than I thought. Had an error in my excel spreadsheet and for some reason it didn't click with me the way the numbers were adding up until I took some printed parts to the scale. I was halving the weights of a bunch of totals that shouldn't have been. That's what I get for copying and pasting spreadsheets from a twin plane.
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It'l be a good bit heavier than I was thinking. Still a lighter plane than the original in the end, but not anywhere close to what I was thinking. Gonna re-work and do some optimizing.
 

Matagami Designs

Master member
So I'm trying this as my 1st 3d printed plane since I have an extra roll of PLA . I was using the v1 PLA gcode from thingiverse but there is a good bit of stringing although workable. not really sure how to slice these correctly in cura and when I try to import the profile I get this error:

1607227483275.png


I believe it has to do with which version of cura i am using? any Ideas? Also i only see a profile in the downloads for PETG i am assuming its the same profile and i will just tweak the temperatures?
 

Wildthing

Legendary member
So I'm trying this as my 1st 3d printed plane since I have an extra roll of PLA . I was using the v1 PLA gcode from thingiverse but there is a good bit of stringing although workable. not really sure how to slice these correctly in cura and when I try to import the profile I get this error:

View attachment 185459

I believe it has to do with which version of cura i am using? any Ideas? Also i only see a profile in the downloads for PETG i am assuming its the same profile and i will just tweak the temperatures?
Revert back or install an older Cura, quality types are named different so it doesn't know what to do.
 

whackflyer

Master member
So I'm trying this as my 1st 3d printed plane since I have an extra roll of PLA . I was using the v1 PLA gcode from thingiverse but there is a good bit of stringing although workable. not really sure how to slice these correctly in cura and when I try to import the profile I get this error:

View attachment 185459

I believe it has to do with which version of cura i am using? any Ideas? Also i only see a profile in the downloads for PETG i am assuming its the same profile and i will just tweak the temperatures?
Hey just a heads up, I think you'll have to change your bed and print head settings over to a Prusa i3 profile so it will print the internal supports for this plane. For some reason they won't show up on a Creality profile. Just copy your bed dimensions, Z height, and print head settings and put them in a Prusa i3 profile. Sounds, confusing, but I think you can do it.
 

Matagami Designs

Master member
Only a few more pieces left to print. I think my room needs better ventilation. Probably not good when you can basicly taste CA in the air. :sick:

Will I need reflex on this model seems the airfoil almost has it built in?

I was planning on using a grayson 2212-06 2200kv I had laying around for this but now that its half way built I am not so sure. Especially since it dosent appear to be rated for 4s. Think this motor will have enough on tap at 3s? I'm not trying to break any speed records...
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