A question about glue

chickenhawk

Active member
I have always used my hot glue gun to build, but now moving on to large build. My question is about using a white glue to bond long spars together. I have seen people using white Gorilla glue ( not a big fan of the foaming part). What about some kind of wood working glue? Trying to keep the weight down and I'm not a speed builder so lots of time to glue things and let them dry over night.
 

The Hangar

Fly harder!
Mentor
I have always used my hot glue gun to build, but now moving on to large build. My question is about using a white glue to bond long spars together. I have seen people using white Gorilla glue ( not a big fan of the foaming part). What about some kind of wood working glue? Trying to keep the weight down and I'm not a speed builder so lots of time to glue things and let them dry over night.
Like @Merv said wood glue will work just fine. I myself am a huge fan of white gorilla glue. I find that the foaming properties help fill in any little cracks and imperfections in my cuts and creates a good strong bond.
 

PsyBorg

Wake up! Time to fly!
I use the white gorilla wood glue to edge all of my builds The bond will be far stronger then the actual foam. I tried to bond some light plywood to make a radio case once and the two pieces moved slightly during the cure process over night. When I went to separate the two the wood splintered before any bond was broken even though I learned the wood was slightly bowed which was why it moved in the first place. Even with a very poor structural bond it was very hard to separate.
 

CrshNBrn

Elite member
I'd second what all the previous folks have said. For the internals, (especially with those long wing spars on that Me-262) the foaming action comes in handy to fill in gaps. You can always use the clear (non-foaming) brand of Gorilla Glue if oozing is a problem.
 

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I'd second what all the previous folks have said. For the internals, (especially with those long wing spars on that Me-262) the foaming action comes in handy to fill in gaps. You can always use the clear (non-foaming) brand of Gorilla Glue if oozing is a problem.
Clear Gorilla Glue doesn't foam up?
 
No, it will fully cure in an hour or two.
Both forms of the glue sand very well.
The white is what I'm totally familiar with. I can count on it holding real well in a good 30 minutes, but yeah a good hour before I even think about sanding on it. Never used the clear, that's the one with double the stated cure time. (I just checked the specs.)

White does foam a lot, but you can figure out how to work with it. Now you got me intrigued about that clear one.
 

The Hangar

Fly harder!
Mentor
The white is what I'm totally familiar with. I can count on it holding real well in a good 30 minutes, but yeah a good hour before I even think about sanding on it. Never used the clear, that's the one with double the stated cure time. (I just checked the specs.)

White does foam a lot, but you can figure out how to work with it. Now you got me intrigued about that clear one.
Same, I’m stopping at the store to pick up some supplies for building this weekend so I may have to pick up a bottle of the clear stuff.
 

SSgt Duramax

Junior Member
I use locktite quick dry wood glue for the tail sections of my planes to keep weight down, and for times I can tolerate a longer dry time. I bought a thing of said gorilla glue above (white or clear, i forget) for science but haven't got around to using it yet.

Actually.... I can use it to repair a wing on my daughters plane I broke....
 

foamboardflyer

Active member
And you might have to report on your findings. ;)
I’ve used clear gorilla glue on one of my master series models and it worked pretty good, it’s similar to working with hot glue but you have to clamp it or tape it. For me it took about a hour or two to cure. but I prefer white GG because of its foaming property’s which in the long run you’re model ends up being liter (because you use less glue)
 

foamboardflyer

Active member
I’ve used clear gorilla glue on one of my master series models and it worked pretty good, it’s similar to working with hot glue but you have to clamp it or tape it. For me it took about a hour or two to cure. but I prefer white GG because of its foaming property’s which in the long run you’re model ends up being liter (because you use less glue)
If you don’t want the foaming from white gg clear works fine. I mostly use clear gg for gluing servos to plywood.
 

clolsonus

Well-known member
I see that if you ask 10 people their opinion on glue, you'll get 20 different answers! I really like "Bob Smith industries foam-cure" glue (similar to hobby-king mucelage glue, but doesn't smell like I just shortened my life by a year using it.) I built a 2 meter foamboard replacement wing for my skywalker and a FT goblin from plans and thought both turned out really nice. You apply the glue and seat the parts, then pull them back apart and let it sit for maybe 3-4 minutes and then things stick back together really well. It still takes a few hours to cure, but for many joints you can quickly move on to the next thing. I haven't looked closely but I'm pretty sure it is a whole lot lighter than hotglue as well. That said, hotglue is inexpensive, dries/cools super quick, and is pretty easy to work with ... so totally fine for many builds. I think of using the fancier glues when I want to take my time and do a more careful, longer term build. There are lots of good ways though ... I've never tried the white gorilla glue, so I can't say how it compares to the foam-cure glue I like.
 
I see that if you ask 10 people their opinion on glue, you'll get 20 different answers! I really like "Bob Smith industries foam-cure" glue (similar to hobby-king mucelage glue, but doesn't smell like I just shortened my life by a year using it.) I built a 2 meter foamboard replacement wing for my skywalker and a FT goblin from plans and thought both turned out really nice. You apply the glue and seat the parts, then pull them back apart and let it sit for maybe 3-4 minutes and then things stick back together really well. It still takes a few hours to cure, but for many joints you can quickly move on to the next thing. I haven't looked closely but I'm pretty sure it is a whole lot lighter than hotglue as well. That said, hotglue is inexpensive, dries/cools super quick, and is pretty easy to work with ... so totally fine for many builds. I think of using the fancier glues when I want to take my time and do a more careful, longer term build. There are lots of good ways though ... I've never tried the white gorilla glue, so I can't say how it compares to the foam-cure glue I like.

It's totally true that there's a right glue for every use, and I use a lot of them. I use BSI Foam-Cure the most by far. Really good stuff.
 

alan0043

Well-known member
Hi Guys,

I hope you guys don't mind if I throw in my 2 cents. :) I have not tried this idea myself. I comes from a guy that I have talked to several times. He likes to use contact glue. But he does not aloud the glue to dry on the separate pieces like you would do with contact glue in the normal way. Like putting down Formica on a counter top. He puts his parts together when the glue is still wet. He told me this method saves weight. I have never done it, so I can't say how it works. I would like to hear from you guys and see what you think. Good or bad is ok with me. :cool: