B-17 Build Log

EDinCT

Member
Now that the design part of this is done I figured its time to start fresh with a build thread in case anyone wants to follow along.

The concept here was to make something a little different yet still be fairly easy to build. I also wanted to teach myself how to use CAD. In order to simplify things, the plane is based around the power pod concept and has a mostly square fuselage. Definitely not going to be the prettiest B-17, but if this works I will redesign her to have more of a B-17 look. I am using just a small amount of 1/8" plywood in order to give my Landing gear something solid to mount to, but other than that, it is all DTFB.

For motors I will be using the power pack B setup from the Flite Test store (plus two additional motors and ESC's.) There will be two servos for each elevator using a radio mix to control. I was debating on doing differential thrust and no rudder, but with FOUR motors, Im afraid I'd rip the wing off. Although I designed it to have a removable wing, I also incorporated a removable nose fro quick access to the battery. (assuming my CG allows me to put the battery up front... fingers crossed.)

I designed the plane in Sketchup using this 3 view drawing:

boeing_b-17.jpg

After many many changes, I decided this would be how the prototype will look:

Plane 1.jpg
Plane 2.jpg

Next up was laying everything out in groups of 20x30 so all the parts could be cut. I made a set of plans but Im making small corrections as I go so they aren't what I would call a final product yet.

Parts.jpg

Here are the plans: View attachment B-17 REV B.pdf

After cutting all the parts I started to build the wing. First up are the nacelles and power pods. pretty straight forward, just have to realize that each one is slightly different so labeling is a must to keep them organized and together as groups.
Wing 1.jpg
Wing 2.jpg
(That big piece is the Lower nose... I was curious to see how it would look size wise)

To build the wing panels, first step is to join the lower inner and outer panels. (I decided not to glue the upper pieces together and fold them over individually. That worked for me..)
The main spar is in four pieces- the joint for the fwd spar is offset by about 5 inches from the joint of the rear spar. So that way when they are glued together it makes a very strong piece. I glued all four pieces together with white gorilla glue and on the panel at the same time so I could make sure everything was straight. Same with the center spar. The short center spar is perpendicular to the centerline so I can use a joiner when both wing halves are assembled together.

Wing 3.jpg

Wing 4.jpg

Wing 6.jpg

Before folding the upper wing over the landing gear mounts inside the wing need to be glued in. No, my ply isn't pretty, but nobody will ever see it again. Its also very important
at this point to use a pin and poke a few holes through the nacelle cut out reference marks so that once the wing is folded over you will know where to cut the openings. I also marked the top of the spar where the nacelles go so I wouldn't put glue in that area.

Wing 5.jpg

I folded the inner wing top over first using a piece of aluminum bracket clamped to the table to help me allign the top and bottom. also note that the trailing edge has to hang off the table since it sits lower than the bottom of the wing. Once that was glued down I folded over the outer panel. I was happy to find that everything lined up perfect.

Wing 7.jpg

Next step is to carefully cut out the openings for the nacelles to slide into. Since its always better cut a little small and make it bigger if you have to, I made the opening slightly smaller than my reference pin holes. Then using a sanding block I cleaned the openings up a little at a time until they are just right. Here you can see the hole I made in the spar to pass the wires through.

Wing 8.jpg

And I finally get to see the work pay off. The nacelles slide right in and lock into the spar as I designed them to. I won't glue them in until after the wing halves are joined and the wiring is done. Im pretty happy with how it looks. Im thinking I might go back to the design and add flaps, although it should be pretty easy to cut them in to the finished wing. Im still working on getting the cowl design just right. I think the slight bit of roundness helps the look.

Wing 10.jpg
Wing 9.jpg

So far so good. Im really happy with how its coming out so far.
Before I build the other wing half I am going to build the fuse to see if the wing will fit.
 

Ketchup

4s mini mustang
Wow, I can’t do ANYTHING in ketchup wait sorry sketchup:D so my dad is going to help me figure it out, but you are already designing b-17s with it. Nice job
 

EDinCT

Member
Thanks all.

Hit a bit of a setback. Wing didn’t fit the fuse opening. So I Had to go back to the drawing board and fix that. And while I was at it I decided to lengthen the mid section and doubler so that the fuse split wasn’t in the middle of the wing opening. As an added bonus, lengthening the distance from wing to tail I’m hoping may improve flying characteristics a bit as well. Cutting new foam pieces tonight.
 

EDinCT

Member
Back on track...

After moving things around a bit and adding a few inches to the fuse, the finished product should look something like this:

Plane 3.jpg

Once all the new parts were cut I got started on making the doubler first. The tail, mid section, and nose are all built around this piece. (at least that what I'm thinking is the best plan..)

Fuse 1.jpg

I used the battery tray to get the angle right on the forward folds first before folding the sides.

Fuse 2.jpg
Fuse 3.jpg

The wing hold down dowel cuts through the mid section and the doubler. the hole is placed so that the dowel will be sitting just below and touching the battery tray. I designed in a small 1/16" notch in the tray so that I can glue a small square of 1/16" ply to the doubler to strengthen the foam in this area. There are two additional ply squares at the rear dowel location as well.

Fuse 4.jpg

Now the mid-section goes together. First the sides get folded up onto the base. Before folding the top over though, this section will be joined with the doubler.

Fuse 5.jpg

By doing it this way, I can use gorilla glue and align the two parts perfectly and clamp them to let dry. The drill and tape dispenser are adding a little weight to the bottom to help clamp the two bottom pieces together. (I'm also using some scrap foam here so the clamps don't mess up the side of the fuse.)

Fuse 6.jpg

By the time I'm done typing this the glue should be just about set and I can get back to work.
 

EDinCT

Member
Once the glue was set on the mid section and the doubler, I folded the top over. I slid the nose on and used some pins to keep everything tight and square as the glue dries.

Fuse 7.jpg

With that set aside to let the glue dry, its time to move on to building the rear lower fuse. Here are the parts.

Fuse 8.jpg

Former 5's main purpose in life is to help me get the front nice and square as I'm folding it so it will slide on to the doubler easily. It also adds some strength so as I close up the rear pieces, everything stays straight. (I did make a mistake here. The slots for the former were supposed to be score cuts so the paper would remain on the outside, but I accidentally set the cut depth to 6mm. No big deal.)

fuse 9.jpg
fuse 10.jpg

Once that was done I checked the fit and its nice and snug. I pulled the exposed paper off the doubler to help get the best glue joint. Im using white Gorilla glue on this as well. Once I had everything glued together I used a piece of angle aluminum under the back to help support it. I think I will let this sit overnight to ensure its fully dry before moving on to the next step.

fuse 11.jpg
fuse 12.jpg

Wow this thing is bigger than I imagined it would be.
 

EDinCT

Member
For the next step I installed the mid-section fuse top. I was a little worried about how these top pieces (rear, mid, and nose) would turn out but everything came out great. Sketchup ROCKS. I did have to sand a little bit of the sides of each former, so I will probably go back to the plans and remove a 1/16" from the side of each one.

I cut 45 degree bevels on the score lines and at the edges. using the formers I put a small amount of glue in the creases and held it in place to hold the shape. at this point I also installed the formers and sanded them just a bit to get everything to fit.
Fuse 13.jpg
Fuse 14.jpg

From the outside it looks good, but I did sand a little to much on one former. Not worried about it.

Fuse 15.jpg
 

EDinCT

Member
Next I did the nose. So many creases on this piece that I was dreading it. But careful 45 degree bevels on each edge and it folded better than I expected.

Fuse 16.jpg
Fuse 17.jpg
Fuse 18.jpg
 

EDinCT

Member
Before doing the rear fuse top, I wanted to see how my canopy turned out. This part is in two sections- one part on the nose and one part on the mid section. Im not going to put the mid section piece on until after I'm finished fitting the wing. (easier to lay upside down on the bench.

Again, 45 degree bevel cuts. Had to do a touch of sanding on the front bottom edges to get all the edges to join. although it came out per design, Im not super happy with the look. I think it might be too tall.

Fuse 22.jpg
Fuse 23.jpg
Fuse 24.jpg
 

EDinCT

Member
Finally the rear fuse top. This part is tricky because the fin passes through it, and then the main fuse body before interlocking with the stab. So it has to go on just right to keep everything aligned. This is where Im really starting to see the results of spending so much time in the design because everything lined up perfect.

First the bevel cuts and pre shaping.

Fuse 19.jpg

Because I already removed the foam from the stab cutout, I put some scrap in the holes to keep from crushing this area when applying pressure to the top. I also put a piece of scrap in the fin hole to help me line it up. I also cut a hole to pass the rudder servo wire.

Fuse 20.jpg

And the end result. Very happy with how it came out. I used a piece of tape on all the edges just to seal it up.

Fuse 21.jpg
 

EDinCT

Member
Nice Progress!

DamoRC

Thanks! Im glad someone is following along!

Tonight I cut out the "belly pan" and was able to slide half a wing in for the first time to get an idea of what its starting to look like. All the pieces here are just kind of propped up together, but nonetheless give a good idea of how its coming out. Im happy.

Fuse 25.jpg

Fuse 26.jpg

One thing I noticed is that the stab is too flimsy. I guess that should be expected since its 28" wide and only a single sheet of foam. Im looking for a length of carbon fiber rod that I can embed in the foam to act as a spar. Unfortunately I don't have any laying around so I'll have to go shopping. But I know I can't leave it like that. I don't think it will last long no matter how gently I fly it.
 

Seahawk

New member
Love the build so far, can't wait to see the final product. I have a thing for the B-17 since my grandfather used to fly in one during WW2, and since I got into scratch building I have wanted to do one with foam board. I am really happy to see that you have taken on the challenge...keep it up!
 

EDinCT

Member
Thanks to all for the support!

Today I went to the local hobby shop and picked up a 4mm carbon fiber square tube. Its a little thinner than DTFB, but I think it will work just fine. I cut a channel down the width of the stab at just about the widest point and embedded the square tube in the foam with regular gorilla glue. (using some wax paper and a lot of weight to keep it flat while the glue dries.) We will see tomorrow how my idea worked once the glue is dry. I'm hoping the foaming action of the glue fills in any gaps.

Fuse 27.jpg

Fuse 28.jpg

Since I promised the wife I wouldn't spend another night in the basement, I spent some time here on the couch with the computer on my lap coming up with some templates for window decals and stencils for the bling to try and make it look something like this:
B17.jpg

Im going to try and cut the windows out of piece of Monokote Trim sheet I picked up today. I found perfectly sized stars and bars on Amazon as well as a good nose art decal. I guess I'm jumping ahead but oh well...

Untitled.jpg
 

mackaiver

Elite member
Now that the design part of this is done I figured its time to start fresh with a build thread in case anyone wants to follow along.

The concept here was to make something a little different yet still be fairly easy to build. I also wanted to teach myself how to use CAD. In order to simplify things, the plane is based around the power pod concept and has a mostly square fuselage. Definitely not going to be the prettiest B-17, but if this works I will redesign her to have more of a B-17 look. I am using just a small amount of 1/8" plywood in order to give my Landing gear something solid to mount to, but other than that, it is all DTFB.

For motors I will be using the power pack B setup from the Flite Test store (plus two additional motors and ESC's.) There will be two servos for each elevator using a radio mix to control. I was debating on doing differential thrust and no rudder, but with FOUR motors, Im afraid I'd rip the wing off. Although I designed it to have a removable wing, I also incorporated a removable nose fro quick access to the battery. (assuming my CG allows me to put the battery up front... fingers crossed.)

I designed the plane in Sketchup using this 3 view drawing:

View attachment 104842

After many many changes, I decided this would be how the prototype will look:

View attachment 104844
View attachment 104845

Next up was laying everything out in groups of 20x30 so all the parts could be cut. I made a set of plans but Im making small corrections as I go so they aren't what I would call a final product yet.

View attachment 104846

Here are the plans: View attachment 104847

After cutting all the parts I started to build the wing. First up are the nacelles and power pods. pretty straight forward, just have to realize that each one is slightly different so labeling is a must to keep them organized and together as groups.
View attachment 104848
View attachment 104849
(That big piece is the Lower nose... I was curious to see how it would look size wise)

To build the wing panels, first step is to join the lower inner and outer panels. (I decided not to glue the upper pieces together and fold them over individually. That worked for me..)
The main spar is in four pieces- the joint for the fwd spar is offset by about 5 inches from the joint of the rear spar. So that way when they are glued together it makes a very strong piece. I glued all four pieces together with white gorilla glue and on the panel at the same time so I could make sure everything was straight. Same with the center spar. The short center spar is perpendicular to the centerline so I can use a joiner when both wing halves are assembled together.

View attachment 104855

View attachment 104854

View attachment 104850

Before folding the upper wing over the landing gear mounts inside the wing need to be glued in. No, my ply isn't pretty, but nobody will ever see it again. Its also very important
at this point to use a pin and poke a few holes through the nacelle cut out reference marks so that once the wing is folded over you will know where to cut the openings. I also marked the top of the spar where the nacelles go so I wouldn't put glue in that area.

View attachment 104851

I folded the inner wing top over first using a piece of aluminum bracket clamped to the table to help me allign the top and bottom. also note that the trailing edge has to hang off the table since it sits lower than the bottom of the wing. Once that was glued down I folded over the outer panel. I was happy to find that everything lined up perfect.

View attachment 104852

Next step is to carefully cut out the openings for the nacelles to slide into. Since its always better cut a little small and make it bigger if you have to, I made the opening slightly smaller than my reference pin holes. Then using a sanding block I cleaned the openings up a little at a time until they are just right. Here you can see the hole I made in the spar to pass the wires through.

View attachment 104853

And I finally get to see the work pay off. The nacelles slide right in and lock into the spar as I designed them to. I won't glue them in until after the wing halves are joined and the wiring is done. Im pretty happy with how it looks. Im thinking I might go back to the design and add flaps, although it should be pretty easy to cut them in to the finished wing. Im still working on getting the cowl design just right. I think the slight bit of roundness helps the look.

View attachment 104856
View attachment 104857

So far so good. Im really happy with how its coming out so far.
Before I build the other wing half I am going to build the fuse to see if the wing will fit.
hey are all the parts in the plans or are they incomplete?