BAD SPAD (35.5cc home built S.P.A.D.) specs/info/plans.

OK, i have completed several more flights and found the following things: it does not climb quite as good as i thought, but the it is 30 degrees Fahrenheit warmer. i also think that i am over propping my engine and with a flatter pitch prop, i would get more thrust. this plane flies very slow so I'm going for the most static thrust and aren't worry about the prop unloading in flight. other than that i have found that my flaperons do not do quite as much as i hoped, but i have to experiment with them more. also BAD SPAD flies so slow that flaps are not necessary. i did several landings and always overshot my mark, but they where all pretty good with a couple slight bounces, which only happened because i was to fast and the wing still was flying, so when my mains touched, the tail continued down and increased the angle of attack thus causing the plane to become airborne again.
 

PBernett

Junior Member
I just started looking at this site and I have a lot of experience with coroplast. I added some pictures of a Pitts biplane I built and flew with a homelite 25cc weed wacker engine.. I also got a 64cc chainsaw engine that I converted and flew a large plane with unlimited vertical. I would suggest you lose the pvc fuselage and just build a fuselage with 4mm coroplast. It is lighter and stronger than the PVC post material you are using. I have a coroplast plane that I never flew with a 33 cc homelite chainsaw engine conversion. I have added the pictures for the 6' wing I built. I am happy to share some of the techniques I used. I stopped flying about 10 years ago when I crashed my large 64cc plane. I am going to get back into it again. I think coroplast is a great material and can be used to create planes that look like ones on this site and are almost indestructible. I'm glad to see others using coroplast and converting gasoline engines. Here are the pictures.

Paul
 

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nice plane!!! i thought about losing the gutter pipe fuselage, but stayed with it out of simplicity's sake. i was going to go coro fuse and model it to look like a beaver or super cub but like the ease of coro.
 

BobK

Banned
I haven't had a chance to go see what size my engines are, but even if they are smaller I can downsize a bit. The last coro plane I built I used gutter pipe just on the main front fuse then coro (just a basic square fuse) for the rest, I hated coro because I didn't know how to work with it, I have used it for some other things since and have learned a bit more. It was only a .40 sized plane and came out quite heavy so I cut lightening holes and used the sign vinyl I mentioned earlier to cover the holes which worked great, and the vinyl is tough so I think it would work well to lighten a bigger plane if need be. The last time I went dumpster diving for sign vinyl I scored on a bunch of chrome..always thought a chrome Mustang was in the future someday :)
 

BobK

Banned
Sweet vid..that thing is just so dang cool! It's nice to see another cold weather flyer, I was out the other morning it was -7, wasn't bad but the fingers get numb pretty quick :)

A Super Cub or Beaver would be neat but that stick look just looks mean lol
 

PBernett

Junior Member
Your video was great. I'm not sure I have a place to fly the giant scale planes anymore.

I do have an advantage when working with coroplast because I live in Northern VA and Harbor Sales is in Baltimore. They deliver 4'x8' sheets of coro to my house for free. I'm paying less than $10/sheet. I build my wings from 2mm coro, even the largest wings are built with 2mm and they are more than strong enough. Have a .28 engine sized coro plane that comes in at 3lbs and has a 46" wing span. It has unlimited vertical. My point is that you can build very light with coro and not have to cut lightening holes even though that is not a bad technique. I'm thinking about starting a thread showing my coro building techniques. There is a myth out there that you need to flash the coro for glue to stick. I have never done that and never had any problems. The three glues that work well with coro are weldwood contact cement, gorrilla glue, and goop. I use them all but for different applications. The contact cement is the same stuff you use for formica counter tops and I use that to glue two pieces of coro together. I use goop to do the same but mainly for gussets when putting my tail feathers together, meaning the elevator and rudder. I use the gorrilla glue to glue pink or blue foam to coro.
 

BobK

Banned
Nice that you can get the thinner coro I haven't worked with that, only thing I have found around here is sign shops but I admit I haven't looked very hard. I had a couple sheets..built a couple planes then got out of fuel planes altogether. First plane I did flash but then realized it didn't have to be, the last thing I made with coro was an airboat for on the snow and I found that hot glue works great also.
 
I just order the 2mm from the local sign shop. I have a 4x8 sheet in the garage right now. I am building slope gliders from the Coro since it's much more durable than DTFB. My DTFB slopers have been great, but it doesn't take too many hard landings to thrash the foam board, even when it's completely covered in packing tape. Honestly, durability is the biggest drawback to DTFB.

I have flashed and not flashed, I can't really tell the difference.... I use hot glue, goop, and CA on the Coro.
 
hot glue is great, i used it for a little 3D/hard to fly electric i built. however, it gets cold fast when applying it. furthermore, it gets brittle in the cold (i fly in temps from 70F to -20F), colder is not really workable. cold hands are a problem, but i made a bit of a cover to keep the wind off my hands. i also fly with this leather gloves which work good, but rob a slight amount of stick control/feel. i have used finger gloves with OK results, but would want only the thumbs and index fingers exposed. with all fingers exposed the pinkies get cold really fast. i have had many flights with extremely cold/painful fingers. i like the chrome mustang idea, or maybe a scale looking zenith? i want to build one of those out of coro, or the real thing, but a model would be a lot cheaper. like i may have said, i can not get 2mm except by the case of 25. i read a bunch about gluing coro, and use CA no flashing, and have had great results! about not having space to fly, she don't take much space to climb out. i loved the unlimited vertical i had with my spad 3d (R.I.P.). thanks, Alaska is very pretty! i thought about lightening with holes and tape, but loved the idea of vinyl, i might have to try that. or even with out the holes that bird needs some color! hard to see in Alaska's no sun grey on grey flat light winter. i like the cold weather for air density! iv also left the fuel powered spectrum except with gas, i tried nitro, but got burned real bad, debating throwing away my nitro engine.
 

MrClean

Well-known member
Looks like it's flying good. I haven't looked at your plans yet but hopefully you have your ski's on there too, right?

Here's video from SPADFest 2011 in Slater, MO. Just to give you all a little look at some other spad planes. Nice thing about gas AND especially your induced ignition version that doesn't need a spark battery, you can fly for a Looong time on what is right now a 1.59 gallon of 2 stroke fuel. I flew my rear end off one summer on gas and went through almost 3 gallons.

Anyways, in this video you'll see my Red USS in the intro of the video along with my buddies Focker and my other buddies Pattern plane and this other guy I knows big pink foam flying wing and then there's my other buddies, well, just watch. It'll be summer again before you know it.


 

BobK

Banned
Nice video, seems the Spad planes have died out a little over the years..I sure have seen quite a few very nice looking and flying planes made out of sign material :)

You never know what you are going to find when dumpster diving for vinyl, I had to hide my chrome because everyone wanted to steal some when they came over lol

vinyl.JPG
 

MrClean

Well-known member
Ya, we've been busy with life and the new level of BNF airplanes and quad copters makes building, (which I don't have any time for) kind of a lost talent? I moved in May last year and just getting the house up to where we want it AND laying out a new garden and such has left little time to finish my hobby room downstairs. I've needed to finish the wiring (a garage with only one electrical outlet and that is the one over the garage door opener? Come on! And all the other old time spad guys have had a case of the life gets in the way. I spend most my time playing Grandpa.
Things change BUT I've been playing model airplanes since before gradeschool and flying RC since 78. I did manage to get out and fly my FMA razor today. Ran it right into the neighbors tree skimming the ground, gonna have to Epoxy a wing.
It's good to see folks playing but hey, 2011 was a really busy year at Slater, that's only 4 SPADfests ago. 2012 was busy at Newton as was 2013. 2014 was at Council Bluffs and then last year was back to Newton.

Don't know where it is this year. Looking for a spot with volunteers.
 
i started building spad this summer and could not find much in the large size i wanted, looking around now though there are lots of chainsaw spads. i am just working on a spad motor glider. using 4mm on the wings, arrows for the fuse and a electric motor. using gutter pipe for the motor mount. hope it works out, but i have my doubts. the wing started good but the rest is a little sketchy. I'll see... here is where I'd kill for some 2mm.
 

MrClean

Well-known member
Russ's trainer like thing would be good for you. It uses blue fan fold (or pink depending on if you go to the pow or Lowe's) I don't know what you do for 2 mill in Alaska. You're farther north than my Canadian buddies that made it to Newton two years in a row.

Russ's TTP Trainer type plane http://spadworld.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17878&highlight=russs+trainer
Quite a bit smaller then what it sounds like you're donig BUT good for indoor and outdoor calm wind flying.