Balsa USA Bristol M-1 Kit

[OliverW]

Could be. I gave up glo/gas years ago and went all electric, but this Hellcat project came along for a magazine and required I use the Evo 15cc engine. I was a little nervous since it's probably been ten years since my last gas engine, but followed the break-in routine to the letter and it was just flawless. Another club member sold his Evo 20 because he said he never had anything but trouble with it. I don't know why. Maybe I just got lucky, but I sure liked that engine...then I converted it to 6S electric ;-)

I love my Evo 10gx to bits and pieces.

 

[Ggimlick]

This is where I am today, since I’m not using CA, it’s a bit of a slow slog right not setting the former pieces and waiting for them to dry enough to do some more. The ABS spinner also showed up from Sarik Hobbies in the UK and it looks pretty good. The backplate and dome are pretty stiff, but I’ll epoxy the backplate to a piece of ply just because...but it might be okay as is. I’ll feel better with ply though.

 

[Ryan O.]

I rough shaped mine before joining them and finished sanding the shape once joined. Don’t remember now if the manual said to do that or not. I wanted to download the newest manual to see what has changed, but BUSA doesn’t let you download digital manuals. I was too cheap to order a print version and pay shipping. I really appreciate companies that let you download a manual before buying a kit.

The new manual is almost exactly the same, just with the option for shear webbing on the spar, and a 2-piece cowl which is slightly longer than the original so that it could have a Four Stroke glow engine. I could send you images of the changed parts if you want.

 

[Ryan O.]

This is where I am today, since I’m not using CA, it’s a bit of a slow slog right not setting the former pieces and waiting for them to dry enough to do some more. The ABS spinner also showed up from Sarik Hobbies in the UK and it looks pretty good. The backplate and dome are pretty stiff, but I’ll epoxy the backplate to a piece of ply just because...but it might be okay as is. I’ll feel better with ply though.
View attachment 170382 View attachment 170383 View attachment 170384

That's looking really clean. Are you doing the little windows on this one? Also, to avoid getting irritant from CA I leave the window wide open, and when I use thin CA I glue it, check allignment, and then leave the area until it airs out. I'm trying to stay as safe as possible with CA.

 

[Ggimlick]

The new manual is almost exactly the same, just with the option for shear webbing on the spar, and a 2-piece cowl which is slightly longer than the original so that it could have a Four Stroke glow engine. I could send you images of the changed parts if you want.

I appreciate it, but if that’s all the change, it’s not necessary thanks. Mine has the two piece cowl and sheer webbing although the webbing isn’t mentioned in the manual. Sounds like they upgraded some items then did a manual later.

 

[Ggimlick]

That's looking really clean. Are you doing the little windows on this one? Also, to avoid getting irritant from CA I leave the window wide open, and when I use thin CA I glue it, check allignment, and then leave the area until it airs out. I'm trying to stay as safe as possible with CA.

Thanks. Yes, it will have the look downs thru the wings. Sounds like you’re being smart with the CA. It’s amazing it gasses off as long as it does. When I do use CA, I do the same except I have to wear a respirator and then leave, I miss CA

 

[Joker 53150]

Good thing you didn't pick up that Kalt gas engine from Ebay. It was delivered today and right away I noticed the exhaust port was crooked. Upon further inspection there was a big crack in the head, probably from a crash that jammed the muffler hard enough to crack the head. The rest of the engine appears fine, but I'm starting a claim with the seller who sold it as "Good clean carb and Engine is in good shape. Should run nice on the right plane." If I can find a replacement head it'll probably be worth the re-build time, and the Pitts style exhaust will work fine on one of my 1/4 scale Cubs. Ideally the seller will just refund part of the sale price and I'll be ok with that. I really hate it when people mis-represent items for sale....

Update: the seller offered to refund my $20 shipping or to take it back and refund the total. I'm keeping and taking the $20 refund it in hopes that I can find a replacement head. If nothing else, the Pitts style exhaust will make it all worth the trouble.

 

[Ggimlick]

That's looking really clean.

Well, this should change your mind ;-) I realized when I drilled the wing mounting holes, i screwed the measurement up so they’re not centered. Crap....I don’t know how I missed a 1/4 inch, but I sure did. It’ll bother me forever.

<EDIT> Okay, it bothered me too much so I took it apart, doweled the mis-drilled hole, filled the sheeting in and redrilled the whole thing. Once it's painted, the different tone balsa won't show and the holes are now correct. Maybe I can sleep now ;-)

Here's a couple tips though...not that my error gives much confidence in my abilities. Rather than sheet the top of the cockpit the way they describe and using triangular pieces to fill in, I took a carrier sheet and grabbed the top profile of the wing rib from it. I sanded it to fit the beveled contour and cut the sheeting using that as a template. That way I didn’t have to do a lot of filler pieces.

When you get to the tail, it has you glue the vertical stab in place, then shape the two triangular filler blocks to shape. I did it their way and it’s a pain. I think an easier way would be to use a 1/4” spacer where the stab would go, then tack glue the blocks in place. This would let you carve/plane the blocks to shape without the stab being in the way. Their way forces you to carve, check it, carve more, check it, sand, check it, etc. I’d rather tack it in and carve to shape, then remove, glue the vert stab and then the pre-shaped blocks.

just a thought...

 

[Ryan O.]

I realized I forgot to post an update in a while, even though I've made quite some progress, sorry😅 New update tomorrow hopefully!

 

[Ryan O.]

Well, this should change your mind ;-) I realized when I drilled the wing mounting holes, i screwed the measurement up so they’re not centered. Crap....I don’t know how I missed a 1/4 inch, but I sure did. It’ll bother me forever.

<EDIT> Okay, it bothered me too much so I took it apart, doweled the mis-drilled hole, filled the sheeting in and redrilled the whole thing. Once it's painted, the different tone balsa won't show and the holes are now correct. Maybe I can sleep now ;-) View attachment 171090

Here's a couple tips though...not that my error gives much confidence in my abilities. Rather than sheet the top of the cockpit the way they describe and using triangular pieces to fill in, I took a carrier sheet and grabbed the top profile of the wing rib from it. I sanded it to fit the beveled contour and cut the sheeting using that as a template. That way I didn’t have to do a lot of filler pieces.

When you get to the tail, it has you glue the vertical stab in place, then shape the two triangular filler blocks to shape. I did it their way and it’s a pain. I think an easier way would be to use a 1/4” spacer where the stab would go, then tack glue the blocks in place. This would let you carve/plane the blocks to shape without the stab being in the way. Their way forces you to carve, check it, carve more, check it, sand, check it, etc. I’d rather tack it in and carve to shape, then remove, glue the vert stab and then the pre-shaped blocks.

just a thought...
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Did you use epoxy, CA, or wood glue to attatch the V-stab? I'm thinking of using wood glue to save weight, and maybe carve some lightening holes in the tail fillers.

 

[Ggimlick]

Did you use epoxy, CA, or wood glue to attatch the V-stab? I'm thinking of using wood glue to save weight, and maybe carve some lightening holes in the tail fillers.

i used SIG Super Weld and Superphatic for everything.

 

[Ryan O.]

Vstab assembly begins tomorrow.

 

[Ryan O.]

Yesterday I finished everything I could without the covering. Once the Planetex and the adhesive and waterproofing for it arrives I’ll be able to finish the plane (minus the wheels) I also need to figure out a way to get the ignition module to the engine. I may try to get the bulk of it on the firewall and run all the wires through a hole to the receiver. I’ll be using 1 Flite Test standard servo for the elevator and the Miuzei servos for the rest (all metal gear) I’m gonna need a new motor mount since the screws for the other one are actually in the Stick 40, so I’ll get those at Hobbytown. I’ll 3D print the pilot in a few weeks once the printer is running again as well.

 

[Ggimlick]

Looking good! Mine has been stalled for some time now, it’s just too darn hot out in the shop to work right now. Hopefully it’ll change soon and I'll find some motivation. Here’s where it stands now. View attachment 177648

 

[Ryan O.]

Looking good! Mine has been stalled for some time now, it’s just too darn hot out in the shop to work right now. Hopefully it’ll change soon and I'll find some motivation. Here’s where it stands now. View attachment 177648

What will you be covering yours with? I’m using Planetex

 

[Ggimlick]

What will you be covering yours with? I’m using Planetex

I'm using light sailplane cloth left from another project, it’s the same as Koverall. Attaching it with Modpodge and then filling it with modpodge and painted with thinned latex paint. Guy Faucet showed me this technique as a non-toxic method since I’m allergic to everything now it seems.

 

[speedbirdted]

I'm using light sailplane cloth left from another project, it’s the same as Koverall. Attaching it with Modpodge and then filling it with modpodge and painted with thinned latex paint. Guy Faucet showed me this technique as a non-toxic method since I’m allergic to everything now it seems.

If you plan on using either gas or nitro power with latex paint you need to seal it up real well, as the exhaust from both will rapidly destroy it. I learned this the hard way. You can use either dope (do like 2-3 coats to make sure you don't have any holes) OR if they still make Poly-Tone in clear (which I'm not sure they do) you can just use that instead. Polycrilic also works, though I've never tried it and I would assume it would be much heavier.

 

[Ggimlick]

If you plan on using either gas or nitro power with latex paint you need to seal it up real well, as the exhaust from both will rapidly destroy it. I learned this the hard way.

True enough, I remember that from my gooey days, but I've been all electric for most of the last 25 years so it won't be a problem. The only time I stray is if I think I might sell a plane to someone who will repower it with glo/gas. This is all for me though so it won't be a problem. Thanks for the reminder though as someone reading this might not be aware of the problem.

 

[Ryan O.]

I started the 25+ hour print of the pilot. I modified printer for even higher detail than before. One upgrade is a reverse bowden setup which really helps reduce artifacting on prints with low extrusion rates. This may not be the last pilot I print, since I’m still tuning the ultra high detail setting on my Prusa for my 1/64 scale Falcon Heavy rocket. The pilot is the most British looking one I could find, and it’s from Thingiverse. I’ll paint it with acrylic from Hobby Lobby or Hobbytown. I’ve found that some Hobby Lobby acrylics partly wash off in rain, so I’ll do some testing.

 

[Ryan O.]

I got a motor mount at a swap meet, but I still haven't found a muffler. I also got a telemaster for $50, and a set of skis.