Diving in the deep end - check my parts

[anammox]

This is a cross post from /r/multicopterbuilds.

Budget: around $1000
Type of multi: 210-250 class acro quad
Purpose: FPV racing, freestyle, fun
DIY build
Experience: flying hubsan h107d fpv regularly outside and inside for a couple months
USA

Parts list

Sorry it's a little disorganized.. it reflects how I'm feeling right now about the process of learning and making my first part list. You'll see I have some parts already.

My goal is to invest enough now that I am somewhat prepared for repairs and future builds. I already know I want to build a 180 class, then a pico/micro quad, and I want to get a fixed wing. From what i have been reading I tried to "future proof" my parts. I want this first quad to either evolve into a better quad once I have more experience with flying and rebuilding, or to be dismantled and repurposed for the same. I don't want to have my beginner quad on a shelf collecting dust. That said, it would be nice to reduce the total cost as it currently stands ($1100).

Please comment on the parts I've chosen, as well as whether you would have chosen a different option that I listed, or one I haven't listed at all. I did not specify vendors because so many are out of stock of some of these parts. I need to be more comfortable with my choices before I can start identifying where I'll be buying everything.

I'll be updating the parts list as I receive comments and narrow things down. Thanks in advance for your input! I've learned so much from everyone already.

I haven't settled on dom v3 or quanam v2 yet. might have an opportunity to try on goggles this weekend to help decide.

 

[Topdawg]

I think you have a good grasp on the parts that you have picked out. The only recommendations I could give you would be to consider your frame. At 125 the frame you have picked out, QAV-R, is a great frame, an I could not recommend it enough. However, it is an expensive frame. One that is usually purchased as a second or third frame. Not always the case, but most people go with a cheaper frame. In the 180 class I could argue that you may get more bang for your buck on a budget than with that frame. So I would say thisone to try.Or you could try the Martian, which is an alien chinese knockoff. This is the Martian which has the added bonus of a PDB. Both of these options would save you almost a hundred dollars. For a first frame you could fly these and really get to a point of feeling comfortable, and than when you want to upgrade your frame you can use all the other electronics from it.

 

[anammox]

I think you have a good grasp on the parts that you have picked out....

That's funny I was just reading jipp's post about a new martian 5" frame. Not sure if I like the other one you linked - I am not a fan of unibody frame if I may be breaking arms.

Thanks for the suggestions. The reason I had expensive frames was because someone convinced me I should support the local suppliers vs the chinese knockoffs. But you're right, I could save $100.

 

[Richmond2000]

That's funny I was just reading jipp's post about a new martian 5" frame. Not sure if I like the other one you linked - I am not a fan of unibody frame if I may be breaking arms.

Thanks for the suggestions. The reason I had expensive frames was because someone convinced me I should support the local suppliers vs the chinese knockoffs. But you're right, I could save $100.

the actual alien is a BIT less than the QAV EX if you get one of the "seconds"
to me the Alien having the 4 arms wedged together SHOULD make them stronger as the weak link is where it is mounted in a NON unibody design

you could also get the support the locals AND save almost $100 dollars and look at the VERSAcopter 2.0 it has a PDB with POLOLU pinups on it and looks quite strong now in the V2.0

I have gone the Martian route BUT am trying to NOT buy parts / electronics from overseas

 

[anammox]

the actual alien is a BIT less than the QAV EX if you get one of the "seconds"
to me the Alien having the 4 arms wedged together SHOULD make them stronger as the weak link is where it is mounted in a NON unibody design

you could also get the support the locals AND save almost $100 dollars and look at the VERSAcopter 2.0 it has a PDB with POLOLU pinups on it and looks quite strong now in the V2.0

I have gone the Martian route BUT am trying to NOT buy parts / electronics from overseas

how much more expensive does it get to buy NA vs International?

 

[Topdawg]

Hey Anammox, I just thought of this also. If you want the best of both worlds, supporting local yet a little cheaper, you can try Armattan Productions. What Armattan quads has done, is they made a production line that people can send in custom designed items. Armattan than fabricates them. With Armattan productions you are buying from Armattan, but the design is from us as consumers, the designers also set the cost, so you would be supporting the designer by buying from them. Check it out here.Also I don't know if you got my message about what kind of connectors are on your batteries. I have an extra CC3D flight board and some JST connectors, XT60 connectors, and a buzzer, I might be able to send you if you wanted to go that route. Send me a PM we will discuss details. Maybe just cover shipping and we can see if we can get you into the quadcopter scene a little cheaper.

 

[anammox]

Hey Anammox, I just thought of this also. If you want the best of both worlds, ...

thanks for the suggestion, and thanks for offering your FC, that's generous of you. I dont mean to sound u grateful but I'd rather you gave it to someone who might benefit more from it than me. I have a healthy budget set aside for this whole project so any savings I may pursue would be where I simply don't need to spend more on a component.

batteries will have xt60 connectors.

so armattan productions is different than armattan quads?

 

[Topdawg]

Yep Armattan productions is user designs that they have sent in. Where Armattan Quads is their own design. Granted with the armattan quads you have a lifetime warranty, and with productions you do not, but you would be supporting local designers by buying from them. Its actually a pretty good setup. I have been toying with the idea to design a camera mount for my XJ470 and sending it over to them to cut. I hear their prices are quite reasonable. But that is off topic

 

[anammox]

i am now leaning towards a standard zmr 250 frame with 6 inch props, but not really sure of the esc/motor combo to use in order to get decent flight times and high speed.

I figured I should start with a true 250 and focus on speed build so that when I want to build a second quad I can go with a 180 or 210 and focus more on agility. Then I would have 2 quads with more unique flight characteristics that I can appreciate for their more pronounced differences. The original build was in the middle which would have ended up leaving me with no choice but to add both a 180 and a 250 to the fleet, resulting in 3 quads and additional unnecessary expenses.

Any recommendations?

 

[airhawk]

Hey Anammox,
so you have a very nice list setup but for a reliable frame i would look at the nighthawk 250 or zmr the Maritain is great but they're a few options in your price range also the martian is semi new and has some things to prove still but if you like it go for it but i see you are looking into the zmr. So as a first quad your goals seem very reasonable just a good handling freestyle quad if freestyle is a heavy interest of your i would look into tri blades they make all the difference in freestyle especially if you turn the rates up.Now for your first battery it doesn't really matter but once you start looking for upgraded look at the c rating thats how much power is given at a time(in a nutshell).Also one last thing i dont know what mode you've flown on until now but unless you program your flight controller to do otherwise the default is on acro mode(which mean your quad will not level if you let off the sticks)
Hope this helps
-Airhawk

 

[Topdawg]

I still enjoy my ZMR250, so its not a bad choice. If you are planning to run 6" props for speed I would recommend the DYS 2205 2100kv motors. Banggood has them. Not a bad motor and not too expensive. However, if that is the case I would recommend also that you go with a 30 amp ESC as those motors can be power hungry with a 6045 prop. Rumor has it though, that you can get a pretty decent speed out of it. So if looking for speed, run 4s and 2100kv motor. Just my 2 cents worth, and I expect change when giving that 2 cents.

 

[anammox]

I still enjoy my ZMR250, so its not a bad choice. If you are planning to run 6" props for speed I would recommend the DYS 2205 2100kv motors. Banggood has them. Not a bad motor and not too expensive. However, if that is the case I would recommend also that you go with a 30 amp ESC as those motors can be power hungry with a 6045 prop. Rumor has it though, that you can get a pretty decent speed out of it. So if looking for speed, run 4s and 2100kv motor. Just my 2 cents worth, and I expect change when giving that 2 cents.

OK. So I had just finished putting this together as my almost final build. Is it wrong for me to keep the same rs2205 2300kv motors I had on my 5" build? What will it change if I go with the dys 2100kv motors, besides saving me $5 per motor?

 

[airhawk]

OK. So I had just finished putting this together as my almost final build. Is it wrong for me to keep the same rs2205 2300kv motors I had on my 5" build? What will it change if I go with the dys 2100kv motors, besides saving me $5 per motor?
View attachment 66862

that 20 dollars could go to props and batteries they shouldn't be too much of a difference between the two

 

[Topdawg]

Honestly, the 2300 kv motors on 4s are better suited for 5" props. Where as the 2100kv motors are better suited for 4s and 6" props. So it all boils down to what do you want to run. If I remember correctly, a prop that has the same pitch but is one inch bigger in diameter will have a higher speed, where as increasing the pitch gives you more thrust. It really all depends on what you want.

 

[anammox]

That sounds right, and I am looking for speed on this 250. You said earlier to run 30A esc's with the dys 2205 2100kv motors, but when I found them on banggood, this is the chart that comes with them - max 21A with 6" props. Do you still think I need 30A ESC's?



From what I understand (and I'm a noob so correct me if I'm wrong), I could use some EMAX BLHELI 20A esc's that are rate for a burst amperage of 25A. Am I missing something? Are there any other reasons I may want higher rated ESCs anyway?

 

[Topdawg]

That sounds right, and I am looking for speed on this 250. You said earlier to run 30A esc's with the dys 2205 2100kv motors, but when I found them on banggood, this is the chart that comes with them - max 21A with 6" props. Do you still think I need 30A ESC's?

View attachment 66934

From what I understand (and I'm a noob so correct me if I'm wrong), I could use some EMAX BLHELI 20A esc's that are rate for a burst amperage of 25A. Am I missing something? Are there any other reasons I may want higher rated ESCs anyway?

View attachment 66935

Honestly it is all personal preference. I prefer to have a large safety margin. If max is 21 than I would go with 30 amp max. The extra headspace will give you a safety margin and allow the ESC to run cooler. The 20 amp if ran at close to the max of 20 amps will generate more heat. This may cause premature failure. However, the counter argument is that usually you don't see max draw and the ESC usually sees some max air movement to help cool the ESC.

 

[anammox]

Can anyone explain how I should size my pololu 5v regulator? I am not sure how many amps it should be capable of providing...

 

[Flat4]

Can anyone explain how I should size my pololu 5v regulator? I am not sure how many amps it should be capable of providing...

Really depends on how much you plan on running off of it. Judging by your parts list, I think your flight controller and receiver will be the only components needing 5v, neither of which will draw a ton of current. The x4r only pulls 100ma, I can't find anything on the sp racing fc consumption though. You would probably be fine with .5 amp pololu, but you may want to get a 1 amp just to be safe.

 

[Garret234]

I know this is a small item and you may have mentioned it in your parts list... A prop balancer. They are pretty easy to find and to use.

 

[PsyBorg]

Have you thought about lights at all? I know an all black Veresa screwed me up for orientation without then. Specially the first few days. That was when I had my worst crash to date. If you think you may put lighting on I would look at something that puts out 2 amps on the BEC's as they can pull a lot of current if you are using the normal 32 leds they can program.