My thoughts exactly, the beeping every 2 seconds usually means they are getting an invalid signal Try setting the ESC protocol to PWM.
Drone Motor constant beeping can't calibrate
- Thread starter Woodiie
- Start date
My thoughts exactly, the beeping every 2 seconds usually means they are getting an invalid signal Try setting the ESC protocol to PWM.
Woodiie
New member
They are just running the default ONERSHOT125 protocoll. I had a very quick test DSHOT600, but none of the others ones.
Woodiie
New member
Woodiie
New member
After calibrating the ESCs(whcih worked this time), the motors seem to work well as far as I can tell. The motors correspond to the correct number when testing them on the motor tab, but I am unfamiliar with how they should act exactly when I input controls, I'll simply have to be very careful on the first flight and see what will happen.
Do you have any other things you know I should/need to configure for it before the first flight? I heard something about pitch angle which I needed to change on the tricopter for it to have any balance, but I am unsure.
Now the only problem that stands is that the servo is not responding. This makes sense so far though, because I have connected the servo data lead to the LED pin instead, because I read somewhere that the Kakute F4 V2 neeeded you to do this, since M4 did no support the servo protocoll or something along those lines. So now anyways, I need to configure the servo to use the LED pin. However, there is no SERVO resource in the resource list. Anything I am missing?
Do you have any other things you know I should/need to configure for it before the first flight? I heard something about pitch angle which I needed to change on the tricopter for it to have any balance, but I am unsure.
Now the only problem that stands is that the servo is not responding. This makes sense so far though, because I have connected the servo data lead to the LED pin instead, because I read somewhere that the Kakute F4 V2 neeeded you to do this, since M4 did no support the servo protocoll or something along those lines. So now anyways, I need to configure the servo to use the LED pin. However, there is no SERVO resource in the resource list. Anything I am missing?
Woodiie
New member
Sadly has not helped. Though I am certain it's certainly a step towards it.
After saving the new setting I pulled out the USB and ran the drone but the servo did not respond.
Did you arm the motors? On mine, the servo only moves when armed.
Woodiie
New member
Tried both armed and non armed. I can tell that the servo is not active what so ever, since I can move it freely when turned on. I assume there must be a connection issue in this case.
The wire diagram I draw earlier still holds if that is relevant. The servo is using LED, 5V and Ground.
It's possible you fried the servo by sending 5V to the signal pin. I'd check that with a servo tester or PWM Rx before digging into the other connections.
Woodiie
New member
I ran the servo using RWM Rx just now and it worked as expected, so at least nothing is broken.
I just looked at the pics of your connections, and I agree that they should be redone. It looks to me like you are leaving the soldering tip on for way too long. Small connections like that have to be done quickly at the correct temp. There are a bunch of soldering tutorials on YouTube, I'd recommend checking out some of them before you start reworking. I also noticed some solder blobs on the board that will cause problems, you'll need to clean that up as well.
Woodiie
New member
I'll go ahead and do some research and then do my best at cleaning up some(most) of the soldering. Thank you
FDS
Elite member
Get some copper clad board or practice boards, they are cheap enough, then practice on those not your FC. I don’t use more than a 25W iron with a needle point for FC work.
Tin the wire ends and the board first, then hold the wire on the pad and melt the solder with the iron,bars soon as it flows together, pull the iron. I use a separate flux for tinning.
Tin the wire ends and the board first, then hold the wire on the pad and melt the solder with the iron,bars soon as it flows together, pull the iron. I use a separate flux for tinning.
Woodiie
New member
After resoldering the servo wires, it did not work. But this time when I switched around yellow and orange, it worked. Turns out yellow is the angle info wire and orange is the actual datawire. Works fine right now, just need to calibrate some stuff.
Thank you all for the help and patience with me! A bit of a newbie, but I've learnt a lot at least.
Thank you all for the help and patience with me! A bit of a newbie, but I've learnt a lot at least.
MorningViewFPV
Active member
awesome
