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Folger Tech 2020 Prusa i3 Build Log

markyoe

Senior Member
#22
OK. I followed your directions.I checked both thermistors and they both read 105.6kOhms. They are OK right? If they are OK, is there any way to check my ramps? Maybe it is a problem with the firmware?
 
#25
Are you getting a MINTEMP/MAXTEMP error when you power on? You get a MINTEMP error with an open circuit and a MAXTEMP on a short circuit. Since you already checked the thermistor and got resistance, it could be something on the RAMPS board (bad trace or solder joint) or even the Arduino Mega.

You can try changing the thermistor pin for the hot end by modifying the firmware (if you are using Marlin, it is pins.h). Since you are only using the two heaters (bed/hot end) you should have an open slot to move to.

I would keep in touch with Folger Tech since they seem to be responding to you.
 

markyoe

Senior Member
#26
Are you getting a MINTEMP/MAXTEMP error when you power on? You get a MINTEMP error with an open circuit and a MAXTEMP on a short circuit. Since you already checked the thermistor and got resistance, it could be something on the RAMPS board (bad trace or solder joint) or even the Arduino Mega.

You can try changing the thermistor pin for the hot end by modifying the firmware (if you are using Marlin, it is pins.h). Since you are only using the two heaters (bed/hot end) you should have an open slot to move to.

I would keep in touch with Folger Tech since they seem to be responding to you.
It showed a MAXTEMPS error. Do I change the firmware through the Arduino software or Repetier Host?
 
#27
I have always used the arduino software to modify the firmware, so I am not sure what Repetier Host is capable of.

In pins.h you probably have lines that look like this for Motherboard 33. It is absolutely critical you find the pin listings for motherboard 33.

Code:
  #define TEMP_0_PIN         13   // ANALOG NUMBERING
  #define TEMP_1_PIN         15   // ANALOG NUMBERING
Temp 0 is for your hot end and Temp 1 is for the heated bed. Change the 13 to 14 and plug in your thermistor to the next port in the RAMPS. Or, if your heated bed is listed as 14, change 13 to 15. Upload the firmware and you should be good to go.
 
#29
In the arduino software, it compiles all the files and uploads the entire firmware image. You don't have to do anything special. Just hit the upload button.

Before you do this, please confirm you are using Marlin.
 
Last edited:
#31
You want to open the Marlin_RAMPS_EPCOS_i38.ino file in the Arduino IDE. That is the best way to edit and then upload Marlin.

Starting at line 378 of pins.h, you should have changed this:

Code:
#define TEMP_0_PIN         13   // ANALOG NUMBERING
#define TEMP_1_PIN         15   // ANALOG NUMBERING
#define TEMP_2_PIN         -1   // ANALOG NUMBERING
#define HEATER_BED_PIN     8    // BED
#define TEMP_BED_PIN       14   // ANALOG NUMBERING
to this:

Code:
#define TEMP_0_PIN         15   // ANALOG NUMBERING
#define TEMP_1_PIN         -1   // ANALOG NUMBERING
#define TEMP_2_PIN         -1   // ANALOG NUMBERING
#define HEATER_BED_PIN     8    // BED
#define TEMP_BED_PIN       14   // ANALOG NUMBERING
And then move the Hot End thermistor connection to the last thermistor connector.

One thing I noticed is that the source they provided doesn't include some of the libraries often required to compile Marlin. The U8glib library being one of them. Your LCD controller won't work without it.

I have Arduino IDE version 1.0.5-r2 installed and the firmware compiles just fine. You can download it here: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/OldSoftwareReleases#1.0.x

After it is installed, you will need to have the U8glib library installed so you can use the LCD. See this page: http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Full_Graphic_Smart_Controller

and this page:

https://code.google.com/p/u8glib/wiki/u8glib

Installing the library is simple. Just put the folder in your "Libraries" folder or import it using the Arduino IDE. Restart the Arduino IDE and you should be good to go.

I hope this helps. You really want to have this installed and be somewhat comfortable with editing the Configuration.h file. You can make some good changes to the firmware which you won't see in the changes allowed by the Repetier Host software.
 

Balu

Lurker
Staff member
Admin
Moderator
#32
Wilsonb: And you simply upload the Firmware with the arduino software over USB? That's something I have to figure out for my TinyBoy too.

I'm not sure if I want to add the display though. I've been running a Raspberry Pi with OctoPi so I can remotely control my printer :). I could add a touch display to the pi, but that didn't work on the first try.
 
#33
Yeah, connect the board to your computer via usb. If you have connection problems, it is critical to check the COM port and board type (both are options in the sofrware). The required drivers are typically installed with the printer control software or the arduino software.

This can all be a little intimidating at first, but there is a ton of information all over to help with even the most obscure errors.
 

markyoe

Senior Member
#37
Let's see some pictures of the prints!
Ok.....just a couple. I need to save some for Part 3. :)

Here are a couple pictures of my third print. The first and second were accidentally really small but pretty good.

The first is of the top of the print.

cCK-hl0WlonpCf2NgTo0RVI8kivUO4pk8t7EciAyYyo.jpg

This is of the bottom of the print. It wasn't warped, I just wasn't patient.

meYrSgAK8b4xZ5R7YvmTWDKPtQ7pmyEHzYnqUguahIc.jpg

The bottom of the print started pretty good but it got worse as it continued. All the prints since then have been really spider web-like and thin.

Any suggestions?
 
#38
This is the most frustrating and rewarding part of a 3D printer. Buckle up!

Things to check:

  • Verify your extrusion rate is correct. Do you actually extrude 25 mm of plastic when you enter the command to do so?
  • Slow down the printer to see if maybe it is printing too fast for your hot end to keep up.
  • Verify that the filament diameter is correct in the slicing software.
  • Since you are using Repetier Host, check to make sure that the hot end temperature is consistent through the print.


For the speed, it may just be that the infill speed is too fast for the printer, so check to make sure that isn't set much higher than the other settings.

Are you using Slic3r or Cura with Repetier? Also, did Folger Tech provide a recommended profile for the printer or a configuration file?
 

markyoe

Senior Member
#39
I am using Slic3r with Repetier. Folger Tech provided a configuration file for PLA and ABS. I am using the PLA one. Yes the temperature of the hot end is consistent. I need to check the other things though.