FT Simple Storch - BUILD

[Andre]

Awesome.

So what are you dropping? Diapers?

BTW your nose looks a little beat up!

 

[earthsciteach]

Yeah, about that… I assembled it without the build vid (beta kit). There was no wood reinforcement in the spar. Folded the wings when I pulled out of a dive. Crunch. Rebuilt and still flies great!

 

[Andre]

Sweet. Yeah even my 48" Cub will fly again. It's nose has been taken off 2-3 times now.

 

[earthsciteach]

Ha! My HZ Super Cub has been in more pieces more times than I can count!

 

[SP0NZ]

Yeah, about that… I assembled it without the build vid (beta kit). There was no wood reinforcement in the spar. Folded the wings when I pulled out of a dive. Crunch. Rebuilt and still flies great!

It took a tremendous amount of patience for me to not put mine together before the build video came out. I took it out of the package about a dozen times since Flite Fest and contemplated putting it together. I'm glad I waited. There are several reference marks noticeably missing from the beta kit that I would have missed. How in the world did you figure out the gear without the build video???

 

[Ron B]

hey teach
I like your decals

 

[earthsciteach]

Thanks, Ron. They aren't really decals, but are simply printed on regular copy paper and glued on with Elmer's. The Baby Bomber graphic was done by a friend of mine. The tail graphic is clip art I found on the web.

 

[Biff45452]

On the store page for the Storch it has this motor as an option. How do you hold a prop onto a threaded shaft like that? Also it looks really long, do you have to cut it?

 

[Craftydan]

On the store page for the Storch it has this motor as an option. How do you hold a prop onto a threaded shaft like that?

Lock nuts and washers, but use two pairs -- one below and one beneath. There's a know quirk in that motor that if you tighten a prop agains the bell, it can casue the set-screw on the shaft to slip and the bearings will wear out quickly from it. Alternitively people have put on a retaining nut (not pulled tight ) and looped zipties around each prop blade and through the vent holes on the bell. that seems to work pretty well as a high-power prop-saver.

Also it looks really long, do you have to cut it?

Only if you like straight motor shafts. In a crash the extra length beceoms a nice lever-arm in bending the shaft. For that motor most people will cut off the excess using a dremle and a cutoff wheel, or any grinder, but you'll want to tape over the vents or stick the motor shaft through a rubber glove/baggie to keep any metal filings from getting into the magnets in the bell.

 

[Biff45452]

Lock nuts and washers, but use two pairs -- one below and one beneath. There's a know quirk in that motor that if you tighten a prop agains the bell, it can casue the set-screw on the shaft to slip and the bearings will wear out quickly from it. Alternitively people have put on a retaining nut (not pulled tight ) and looped zipties around each prop blade and through the vent holes on the bell. that seems to work pretty well as a high-power prop-saver.

So the top and bottom nuts and washers just clamp the prop with friction?

 

[roversgonemad]

A few have commented on the layout of the plans. I always get mine printed at a local print shop and they didn't even have a printer that could accommodate the size. We had to print them in two strips and I will have to tape them together. Since they are cutting these form 20x30 foam board, I don't see any reason they can't configure them such that they will fit on standard size sheets. This giant 55x60 something layout is not very good. Love the planes, don't like the new plans layouts....

 

[Craftydan]

So the top and bottom nuts and washers just clamp the prop with friction?

Yup. as long as your prop spacer fits the shaft so it stays centered, the two washers should squeeze in tight enough that the prop is not going to slip. this will happen long before the pressure damages the prop hub.

 

[mjmccarron]

I use an old gift card, chopped into 4 and drilled out, to reinforce my power pod and fuse's skewer holes. The added surface area really helps distribute the load, and it's thin enough for minimal interference with the power pod's removal.

I use square pieces of tongue depressors. I just cut 3/4" squares and drill them for the BBQ skewers.

 

[HeatFlyer]

I try to line up the most important lines and let everything else fall in place. It worked fine for the FT P-51 and it flies like a dream!

 

[HeatFlyer]

A few have commented on the layout of the plans. I always get mine printed at a local print shop and they didn't even have a printer that could accommodate the size. We had to print them in two strips and I will have to tape them together. Since they are cutting these form 20x30 foam board, I don't see any reason they can't configure them such that they will fit on standard size sheets. This giant 55x60 something layout is not very good. Love the planes, don't like the new plans layouts....

Have you tried the tiled plans?

 

[roversgonemad]

I have not tried the Storch tiled plans, but I have built enough planes form tiled plans to know that I don't like taping together pieces of paper... As it stands, I have one seam to tape and that's fine. In the future if they don't fit on a standard sheet, I'll download the software recommended by willsonman and rearrange them myself. Not a big deal, I do appreciate what FT does for RC. The FT Old Fogey was my first RC plane in almost thirty years. It was FT and their zany videos that got me back into this hobby! Now I am solidly addicted and still love building and flying their planes. This Storch will be a fun plane. I am not getting down on them, I guess I probably shouldn't have said anything...

 

[Corbarrad]

I remember downloading a plan from somewhere once that only had the important details printed in full size, fited to A4.
The big pieces with the long straight just had the measurements written down next to a scaled down drawing of the part.
That way you could, for example draw the straight part of the wing directly onto foamboard and then use the A4 template to finish up your wingtip.
I thouggt it was pretty clever...

 

[HeatFlyer]

I have not tried the Storch tiled plans, but I have built enough planes form tiled plans to know that I don't like taping together pieces of paper... As it stands, I have one seam to tape and that's fine. In the future if they don't fit on a standard sheet, I'll download the software recommended by willsonman and rearrange them myself. Not a big deal, I do appreciate what FT does for RC. The FT Old Fogey was my first RC plane in almost thirty years. It was FT and their zany videos that got me back into this hobby! Now I am solidly addicted and still love building and flying their planes. This Storch will be a fun plane. I am not getting down on them, I guess I probably shouldn't have said anything...

Why do you think you should not have said anything? If you dislike something that is ok You obviously have many years of R/C experience and your comment may just help someone that does not have access to a printer. FT has given me the confidence to scratch build for the first time in my years of R/C. In my opinion FT has so much more for R/C flight than anyone could imagine. I have plans in my mind for a Dollar Tree foam board B-17 as a winter project. If something bugs you please don't keep it to yourself, it may just keep someone in the hobby!

 

[HeatFlyer]

FPV Storch

I have a go-pro and all the FPV items I need, does anyone think the Storch would make a decent FPV platform?

 

[brian79cj]

-This plane looks awesome. I have it almost done. What do you guys think about Emax GT2215-09 1180KV 2.25 lbs thrust for the Storch? What size prop? I got this motor from Lazertoys for a Duster.