FT Slow Stick S250

This Stuff I Do

New member
Hey all.
Seems like folks are posting builds here so here goes. I'm fairly new to the hobby and, like many others, I found it very annoying to have to adjust all the components to balance. I'm not sure I'll use the battery/motor combo shown, which would throw off the balance. Currently drastically under-powered. Also I'm kind of weird about making things permanent in my projects. My solution, which seems to work very well, was to modify the parts to add M3 screw clamps. This lets you move the parts around easily as needed, then clamp them down in place. I was surprised what light screw pressure was required to lock the parts in place. Just had to snug them down gently. No glue except on the foamy bits. The flex in the clamps also allow the parts to fit nicely onto arrow shafts of slightly different diameter. I'm printing SLA so mods like this might not work well in FDM. YMMV.


WingBack (Large).PNG

Wing back
  • Lengthened and fattened the little rubberband grabbies. Also beveled the rear edges to not cut the rubber band.
  • Down-facing M3 screw clamp
  • Fillets! "You get a fillet! You get a fillet! Everybody gets FILLETS!!!!!" Sharp internal corners make stress cracks, which was a concern in SLA. Turned out not to be a problem but it's a little prettier.

WingFront (Large).PNG

Wing Front, the "star of the show"
  • Beveled, bigger rubberband grabbies.
  • M3 clamp offset to allow use of original landing gear holes.
  • Fillets, fillets and more fillets

TailWire (Large).PNG

Tail wire:
  • Thickened a bit to fit width of typical M3 screw head
  • Clamp
ServoHolder4ch (Large).PNG

4ch servo holder:
  • Clamp on only one side. Might be good to add a little slit to the other loop to let it 'flex' around different shaft sizes.
  • Fillets
  • My 5g servos didn't fit so I had to use 3.7g. What's the deal with that?

ESC Holder (Large).PNG

Holder:
  • Clamp
  • Fillet
  • Would also benefit from a flexure slit on the fixed side

20231012_104411 (Large).jpg

Ailerons, naturally.

20231012_104223 (Large).jpg

I'm like, 90% sure the little Blue Wonder isn't gonna' cut it. I didn't use the printed motor mount because:
1) I don't like how it looks
2) It's an arrow. Make it an arrowhead. So I turned that on the lathe. Particularly well suited for this 'hole'-mounted motor type. Blue Loctite.
  • Printed wheels also visible. Haven't secured those yet.
  • Gyro, because I'm a coward

20231012_104259 (Large).jpg


  • 'Wing rear' and 'Tail Wire' parts, clamped in place.
I'm using 3/32 TIG wire for the gear. Not sure if that's going to cut it.
MIG wire driving rudder/elevator. I think I'll probably replace that or put it inside a tube.
 

Captain Video

Well-known member
Trying so hard not to build one......


I may have to see if we have any arrows at work. We don't usually carry them but will occasionally get some in on return. If we have some.... I am building! Will print enough parts for combat at the field.....

LB
Ok. I'm in! How about the feild behind the middle school near my house. I will coordinate with my sons see if they are up for it.
 

skymaster

Elite member
Hey all.
Seems like folks are posting builds here so here goes. I'm fairly new to the hobby and, like many others, I found it very annoying to have to adjust all the components to balance. I'm not sure I'll use the battery/motor combo shown, which would throw off the balance. Currently drastically under-powered. Also I'm kind of weird about making things permanent in my projects. My solution, which seems to work very well, was to modify the parts to add M3 screw clamps. This lets you move the parts around easily as needed, then clamp them down in place. I was surprised what light screw pressure was required to lock the parts in place. Just had to snug them down gently. No glue except on the foamy bits. The flex in the clamps also allow the parts to fit nicely onto arrow shafts of slightly different diameter. I'm printing SLA so mods like this might not work well in FDM. YMMV.


View attachment 240431
Wing back
  • Lengthened and fattened the little rubberband grabbies. Also beveled the rear edges to not cut the rubber band.
  • Down-facing M3 screw clamp
  • Fillets! "You get a fillet! You get a fillet! Everybody gets FILLETS!!!!!" Sharp internal corners make stress cracks, which was a concern in SLA. Turned out not to be a problem but it's a little prettier.

View attachment 240432
Wing Front, the "star of the show"
  • Beveled, bigger rubberband grabbies.
  • M3 clamp offset to allow use of original landing gear holes.
  • Fillets, fillets and more fillets

View attachment 240433
Tail wire:
  • Thickened a bit to fit width of typical M3 screw head
  • Clamp
View attachment 240434
4ch servo holder:
  • Clamp on only one side. Might be good to add a little slit to the other loop to let it 'flex' around different shaft sizes.
  • Fillets
  • My 5g servos didn't fit so I had to use 3.7g. What's the deal with that?

View attachment 240435
Holder:
  • Clamp
  • Fillet
  • Would also benefit from a flexure slit on the fixed side

View attachment 240436
Ailerons, naturally.

View attachment 240437
I'm like, 90% sure the little Blue Wonder isn't gonna' cut it. I didn't use the printed motor mount because:
1) I don't like how it looks
2) It's an arrow. Make it an arrowhead. So I turned that on the lathe. Particularly well suited for this 'hole'-mounted motor type. Blue Loctite.
  • Printed wheels also visible. Haven't secured those yet.
  • Gyro, because I'm a coward

View attachment 240438

  • 'Wing rear' and 'Tail Wire' parts, clamped in place.
I'm using 3/32 TIG wire for the gear. Not sure if that's going to cut it.
MIG wire driving rudder/elevator. I think I'll probably replace that or put it inside a tube.
would it not work if you drill a hole in the original pieces to keep them in place
 

Flying Farm Kid

Active member
Like a set-screw? Could work.
Hey all.
Seems like folks are posting builds here so here goes. I'm fairly new to the hobby and, like many others, I found it very annoying to have to adjust all the components to balance. I'm not sure I'll use the battery/motor combo shown, which would throw off the balance. Currently drastically under-powered. Also I'm kind of weird about making things permanent in my projects. My solution, which seems to work very well, was to modify the parts to add M3 screw clamps. This lets you move the parts around easily as needed, then clamp them down in place. I was surprised what light screw pressure was required to lock the parts in place. Just had to snug them down gently. No glue except on the foamy bits. The flex in the clamps also allow the parts to fit nicely onto arrow shafts of slightly different diameter. I'm printing SLA so mods like this might not work well in FDM. YMMV.


View attachment 240431
Wing back
  • Lengthened and fattened the little rubberband grabbies. Also beveled the rear edges to not cut the rubber band.
  • Down-facing M3 screw clamp
  • Fillets! "You get a fillet! You get a fillet! Everybody gets FILLETS!!!!!" Sharp internal corners make stress cracks, which was a concern in SLA. Turned out not to be a problem but it's a little prettier.

View attachment 240432
Wing Front, the "star of the show"
  • Beveled, bigger rubberband grabbies.
  • M3 clamp offset to allow use of original landing gear holes.
  • Fillets, fillets and more fillets

View attachment 240433
Tail wire:
  • Thickened a bit to fit width of typical M3 screw head
  • Clamp
View attachment 240434
4ch servo holder:
  • Clamp on only one side. Might be good to add a little slit to the other loop to let it 'flex' around different shaft sizes.
  • Fillets
  • My 5g servos didn't fit so I had to use 3.7g. What's the deal with that?

View attachment 240435
Holder:
  • Clamp
  • Fillet
  • Would also benefit from a flexure slit on the fixed side

View attachment 240436
Ailerons, naturally.

View attachment 240437
I'm like, 90% sure the little Blue Wonder isn't gonna' cut it. I didn't use the printed motor mount because:
1) I don't like how it looks
2) It's an arrow. Make it an arrowhead. So I turned that on the lathe. Particularly well suited for this 'hole'-mounted motor type. Blue Loctite.
  • Printed wheels also visible. Haven't secured those yet.
  • Gyro, because I'm a coward

View attachment 240438

  • 'Wing rear' and 'Tail Wire' parts, clamped in place.
I'm using 3/32 TIG wire for the gear. Not sure if that's going to cut it.
MIG wire driving rudder/elevator. I think I'll probably replace that or put it inside a tube.
This is a great idea thanks for sharing!
 

Piotrsko

Master member
They make a super jumbo. It a "Breezy" variant. The hang gliders have one too but I don't know it's name
 

kilroy07

Legendary member
would it not work if you drill a hole in the original pieces to keep them in place
Model a hole in the 3D part, then add one of those brass hot melt insert nuts and you're golden.
(Too late for my first build... but I want to take #2 into the ultra-ultra light realm.)
 

redozbris

New member
Hello All

First time builder from Australia, thought I would throw in some information about the wings for those in the future, the foam board that I've managed to find locally (5mm Thick, white paper both sides) doesn't like to bend in the same way that I've noticed that others have been bending, so I've found some ways to make my attempts work (I've made three Nut Balls, Two Flyers and now one and a Half slow sticks, none of them I've managed to get flying, I get time in the evenings, but not during the day due to work, but hopefully some time this weekend to try them out, if I can figure out the CG Issues (but I am going to try the 'glide/chuck tests first, so hopefully this will make me a little more confident that we wont destroy them!)

I am going to be using 8x6E Props on a 2208 Motor, with a 20A ESC with a 4 Chan FS2A with either a 2S or 3S 500Mah Battery (what I have on hand)

I took the information from a previous post from Soareyes on June 28 2023, and have done some changes myself.

I cut everything out (for myself, I take the plans, print them out on a A1 Printer, and then lay them down on a sheet, and cut out a master set/Template) from the master set I created, once cut out from the reference template, I then do the score cuts and break along those cuts (the red dashed cuts), put some fibrerglass tape on the reverse side of the hinge (The length of the "cut"), I then do the bevel cuts (I find what works best for me is to put the ruler about 2-3mm behind the line and then cut along after the section has been folded back), I then run some hot glue over the "hinge" and run some scrap foam along it, making it nice and thin, and then put aside to let it dry.

For the Camber, I followed Soareyes procedure, but for me, I found that getting the bend is exceptionally difficult due to the material, so when I do for these kinds of bends, it take a blunt skewer and run it along the cuts in the wing so that it opens it up so it has somewhere to fold into, I built up a 25mm wide, by 350mm long , by 20mm high "spar", glued together, with painters tape on each end, I placed between the 3-4 cut, on the side of the cut, and then started to glue, gluing one cut at a time (Running enough glue to let it leak out a little, and then opening again, and then closing once more, to make sure the glue is distributed, then running a piece of scrap foam board along the cut to clean off the excess) then turning the wing over so the cuts are facing down, and the spar is support it, I simple push down on the leading edge, wait a few minutes until its cool and dry, and repeat, when you get to the 3-4 cut, and it needs to glue, I pulled the tape off, and just moved it a little forward, I found that I accidently glued the spar to the wing with the glue oozing out, It holds the camber described, and then I placed wide fiber tape along the cuts.

To Glue the two sections together, (as there is a slighly different cut in the middle, its not square to the wing, this allows the two to be put together to get dihedral) I loaded them into the front brace (the 3D Printed Brace) and with some painters tape, got it all square, pulled the brace out, turned it over to expose the underside of the wing (where the cuts are) opened up the center cut, and then ran hot glue along the center section, pushing it back together and waiting for it to dry, pulled of the painters tape, and ran fiber tape along the cut on the top and bottom, and this seems to make a truly strong joint.

The shaft is 82cm long, I only managed to find 8mm extruded Carbon rod in my area, I was looking at Arrows, but the price difference was substantial, I've redesigned the motor mount as again, I only had m2 screws with hex heads so they didnt fit in the model supplied, I found there was a 2 Degree right and down tilt to the mount which I built in again to the new mount.. I think I've just managed to make it heavier!

A photo for the sake of it, I have not figured out how to CG it all yet, my thoughts are find a place for the wing, and then balance the wing, and then make the model balance around the position of the wing, to me that would make sense. Please ignore the apprentice in the photos, its a super cheap market place purchase, that I got for a silly cheap price, it was crashed, and thought for the cost, may try my hand at fixing it (Tail is broken, nose wheel is broken, rudder servo is broken etc, and the tail section towards the tail feathers has a truly nasty crack through the foam that needs some more glue and supports)

Thanks!
 

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F4vet

New member
Was looking at the plans for the Slow Stick S250 as a possible school project, and couldn't find any info on the plans for the fuselage stick or assembly dimensions. Also there is a servo tray called 4 channel. I am assuming elevons with a rudder in the 4 channel setup? Thanks!
I am looking for the plans for the slow stick but haven't been able to find them. Can someone please post a link? Thanks
 

sunrise30

New member
Hi Aslanmonkey,

Thank you for writing down how you are balancing your plane. I talked to a friend of mind about putting the slow stick together and he told me to put the whole plane together with the tail glued on and the rest of the parts not to be glued yet and find the cg of the plane by moving the main wing back and forth. I like have great minds think alike. :) My understanding by doing this balancing method the arrow shaft does not need to be a certain length.
Worked great this way, balancing CG thanks.
 

sunrise30

New member
I just made mine yesterday with a 8mm carbon tube. my tube was only 800 mm long but it still flew great.
You can just watch the video and aproxamate the placement for now. This airframe is very forgiving so it should still fly fine.
Just mke sure that you make your landing gear long enough if you don't the mpter mount will end up braking.
I did redo my parts in tinkercad though which made them thinner.
This airplane flies fantastic though even just on 3 channel.
I hope to eventualy buy the corrrect diameter tube and rebuild it eventualy.
Hope this is helpful
Put mine together finally
 

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AIRFORGE

Elite member
I still haven’t found them. There were some others
Currently, it is the latest set of 13 plans. Are you a member, and logged in?
After you login, scroll down 'til you see the plans, and the Slow Stick S250 should be there. If you want to see all of the 13, you can click the large PLANS link and then you can sort them via the drop-down on the right. Currently, it will only show 12 per page.
 
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