T-Richard
Active member
go for full size simple soarer... it is very similar and beginner friendly
FT Tiny Trainer - BUILD
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go for full size simple soarer... it is very similar and beginner friendly
Hey.
It would fly at 100% too. But it might be a little heavy, needing more speed to stay up. Go for 150% if you want something slow to poke around the sky with.
Just remember that if you blow the plans up 150% all the places where you remove foam for a fold will be to big, so cut them narrow. Better to have to widen the gap rather then fill it in.
/Dews.
My First Build!
I've watched Flite Test for ages, and finally built my first aircraft! I did a scratch build of this Tiny Trainer over the last few days and just finished it today. I am so glad to have finally made my own aircraft! However it's rainy and windy today, so I can't fly it yet. It's the most frustrating feeling ever!
A few changes I had to make:
- Push rods weren't long enough so the servos are mounted further back, had to cut more of a hole to access them
- Couldn't use laser cut plywood, so control horns and firewall are made out of a cut up gift card
- The motor and power system I have is bigger than this was designed for so I had to cut away more of the firewall for the wires and had to shove everything further back in the plane
- The battery I had was too big so I mounted it on top of the plane and cut a hole there for the wires to come through
Once I get a chance to fly it I'll throw up some photos and let you know how it went!
I've watched Flite Test for ages, and finally built my first aircraft! I did a scratch build of this Tiny Trainer over the last few days and just finished it today. I am so glad to have finally made my own aircraft! However it's rainy and windy today, so I can't fly it yet. It's the most frustrating feeling ever!
A few changes I had to make:
- Push rods weren't long enough so the servos are mounted further back, had to cut more of a hole to access them
- Couldn't use laser cut plywood, so control horns and firewall are made out of a cut up gift card
- The motor and power system I have is bigger than this was designed for so I had to cut away more of the firewall for the wires and had to shove everything further back in the plane
- The battery I had was too big so I mounted it on top of the plane and cut a hole there for the wires to come through
Once I get a chance to fly it I'll throw up some photos and let you know how it went!
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I don't know if it's an option for you guys, but you could potentially use thicker foam board, that way the holes can scale up too. I have different sizes of foam board available where I bought it from. Can't remember what the sizes where though.
3mm depron should be fine for strength -- all the major parts are folded and glued into tube-ish shapes, except the tail feathers.
I'm not convinced about durability for 3mm, but if you cover the sheet with packing tape it should be more than durable enough . . . and 3mm + tape should come out VERY light and floaty.
I'm not convinced about durability for 3mm, but if you cover the sheet with packing tape it should be more than durable enough . . . and 3mm + tape should come out VERY light and floaty.
mad_milchmann
New member
ah good to know. I was also thinking about using 3mm foamboard since the stuff we can get here in Germany is quite a bit heavier than the dollartree stuff.
now I feel more safe in doing so
insomaniac45
Member
3mm depron does not have the rigidity of 5mm, it is very flexible, so you may have to laminate 2 sheets together for areas that will require both rigidity and strength.
Christopher14
Driftin' with the wind...
A 5x3 on 3s will give adequate power. On 2s it would be (in my opinion) underpowered.
I have built many of the regular size FT planes with 3mm foamboard. (The swedish stuff, heavier and stiffer) at 70%. Wich shrinks all cut outs the right amount And let's me use a smaller motor/battery combo. So far I have not seen any problems caused by using 3mm. I have both taped it up and ran without Both works nice. For a plane I want to keep around for a longer time, I always tape.
Only like that if flying Mode 2, I learned to fly years ago in UK where nearly everyone used Mode 1 where Throttle and Aileron on Right stick, Rudder Elevator on Left. A lot easier for accurate flying as well I find as primary flying controls are separated in 4 channel.
With Mode 1 flying 3 channel Elevator on left with throttle Rudder on right.
On my Gamma 370 which I have both wings for (Standard 3 channel and Aileron 4 channel), I leave rudder servo connected to rudder channel for 4 channel use and have a switched mix to let my Aileron stick control it in 3 channel mode.
I then only need to connect aileron servo to Rx instead of fiddling swapping leads over.
Will do same for this Tiny Trainer.
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BridgeInspector
Flite Test Groupie
That looks nice! Well done sir!
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