how to print plans where there is only 1 half of wing?

Anton005

Member
Hi,
I've done a couple ft builds from scratch where I print the plans myself, all was good... Now I've run into a couple where they only give the plans for half of the wing and your supposed to somehow reverse the template to use on the other half. Is there a way to print a reversed copy? I mean I could stick it on to my foamboard backwards, but the marks will be on the inside. I don't understand why they started doing this???

Any help would be great.

Anton
 

JasonK

Participation Award Recipient
I haven't seen any FT plans that don't have both wings in them. you could just flip the paper over after cutting it out and cut out again if there truly isn't a second wing in the plans.
 

Anton005

Member
It's the ft explorer, first time I have seen that in any of the plans. I thought about that, but after I do the cuts for the bending creases on the airfoil my pattern comes off in many pieces.

If I can't figure out any other way I guess I'll have to piece it back together and put it on reverse. Actually thinking about it, re-taping it would be easy while it's stuck to the foam still.

Thanks,
Anton
 

AIRFORGE

Make It Fly!
Moderator
Hi,
I've done a couple ft builds from scratch where I print the plans myself, all was good... Now I've run into a couple where they only give the plans for half of the wing and your supposed to somehow reverse the template to use on the other half. Is there a way to print a reversed copy? I mean I could stick it on to my foamboard backwards, but the marks will be on the inside. I don't understand why they started doing this???

Any help would be great.

Anton
Maybe someone can upload a reversed wing file for you.(y)
 

JasonK

Participation Award Recipient
look at that... they don't have both wings in the plans... you can just flip it over.. there isn't any marking that would be hard to use with it flipped over.
 

Anton005

Member
look at that... they don't have both wings in the plans... you can just flip it over.. there isn't any marking that would be hard to use with it flipped over.
I have a hard enough time following the lines with my exacto when I can see them, if they are on the opposite side there is no way!:eek: and I was planning on using the black foam board.
 

Ratcheeroo

Legendary member
I have a hard enough time following the lines with my exacto when I can see them, if they are on the opposite side there is no way!:eek: and I was planning on using the black foam board.
I use black foam board , I print my plans full scale on a PET film and cut them out so that I can reuse without having to print again, and I can share with my buds. This is what I do - I cut notches on the pattern piece to indicate whatever mark I need to replicate when I flip over the pattern piece, here are a couple of pics of a simple example that should be close to your wing
IMG_20210430_155459694.jpg
IMG_20210430_155449444.jpg
 

Ratcheeroo

Legendary member
I use black foam board , I print my plans full scale on a PET film and cut them out so that I can reuse without having to print again, and I can share with my buds. This is what I do - I cut notches on the pattern piece to indicate whatever mark I need to replicate when I flip over the pattern piece, here are a couple of pics of a simple example that should be close to your wing View attachment 199373 View attachment 199374
and here's an example of something that has a servo placement and wind spar placement
IMG_20210430_164259747.jpg
 

Indy durtdigger

Elite member
I tape the templates to the foam board and trace the outline while marking where the cut lines are on the border. I remove the template and finish drawing all the lines on the foam board before cutting out, this way I can reuse the templates for repairs or rebuilds. In the case of the Explorer I marked where the very edge of lines needed to be on the back side of the template so I knew where to mark them when when it was flipped over.
 

Anton005

Member
Well I can tell you how not to do it now... I used the plans as normal, spray adhesive and stuck em to the foam, cut some of the lines, but tried to not cut all of them so it would somewhat stay together. Then I taped a bunch of it back together, sprayed the front (while it was still kind of attached, this was my mistake) and tried to get it off and flipped over onto the other foam board... it didn't go very well. I should have removed it from the board, then sprayed it. It kind of turned into a big sticky mess, but I did manage to get it sorted out.

The first flights with the aileron wing on the ft explorer went about as well... maybe not as well actually. I had to really fight to keep it from diving all the time. I tried giving it more up thrust on the motor, which helped a bit, but also seemed to make it fly a lot less efficient and I still had to fight to keep it from wanting to pitch down. It flew pretty good with the big floater polyhedral wing, I actually had the reverse problem, it always wanted to climb which I could deal with.

Anyway, thanks for the help, next time I'll just cut out the outline and use the pattern like that without cutting all the internal lines.

Anton
 

NovaScotiaMatt

New member
I've been building for about a year, even when the plans come with 2 wings I still only use one.

Instead of cutting along the crease lines I poke holes along it spaced every few inches using a pushpin. After removing the template you can use a straight edge to trace those line s, which leaves your original template in tact. You can then flip it for a mirror image and poke through the same holes used before. It works best on dark foam board but definitely still works on white.

Just don't poke all the way through, only the side you're going to score.

This was my first post on here I hope it was helpful!
 

Paracodespoder

Elite member
I've been building for about a year, even when the plans come with 2 wings I still only use one.

Instead of cutting along the crease lines I poke holes along it spaced every few inches using a pushpin. After removing the template you can use a straight edge to trace those line s, which leaves your original template in tact. You can then flip it for a mirror image and poke through the same holes used before. It works best on dark foam board but definitely still works on white.

Just don't poke all the way through, only the side you're going to score.

This was my first post on here I hope it was helpful!
This is exactly what I do as well, use it for fuselage parts and anything else that folds or creases
 

Ratcheeroo

Legendary member
Well I can tell you how not to do it now... I used the plans as normal, spray adhesive and stuck em to the foam, cut some of the lines, but tried to not cut all of them so it would somewhat stay together. Then I taped a bunch of it back together, sprayed the front (while it was still kind of attached, this was my mistake) and tried to get it off and flipped over onto the other foam board... it didn't go very well. I should have removed it from the board, then sprayed it. It kind of turned into a big sticky mess, but I did manage to get it sorted out.

The first flights with the aileron wing on the ft explorer went about as well... maybe not as well actually. I had to really fight to keep it from diving all the time. I tried giving it more up thrust on the motor, which helped a bit, but also seemed to make it fly a lot less efficient and I still had to fight to keep it from wanting to pitch down. It flew pretty good with the big floater polyhedral wing, I actually had the reverse problem, it always wanted to climb which I could deal with.

Anyway, thanks for the help, next time I'll just cut out the outline and use the pattern like that without cutting all the internal lines.

Anton
Thanks for even considering my suggestion, glad I took the time out to try and help you out, won't happen again