They should be pretty cheap down south near the coast where you are. Shipping is what got me.
It was as much as the container.
Thurmond
Idea: The Flyplotter
- Thread starter JasonEricAnderson
- Start date
They should be pretty cheap down south near the coast where you are. Shipping is what got me.
It was as much as the container.
Thurmond
JasonEricAnderson
Senior Member
Found some little steppers in my Ecycle drawers, I think these are from a printer. Nothing to impressive but it will get me something to play around and test with.
Great idea!
I lucked into 2, 11" x 17" plotters (Roland DXY-800 and DXY-1100) about a year ago that I'm working up the gumption to convert into laser cutters. I just need to figure out the diode and driver for 3-6mm Depron. I've already figured out how to use the pen up/down solenoid as on/off for the laser.
I think you've just inspired me. Thanks!
Cheers!
Randall
I lucked into 2, 11" x 17" plotters (Roland DXY-800 and DXY-1100) about a year ago that I'm working up the gumption to convert into laser cutters. I just need to figure out the diode and driver for 3-6mm Depron. I've already figured out how to use the pen up/down solenoid as on/off for the laser.
I think you've just inspired me. Thanks!
Cheers!
Randall
I have had my eye on this laser module:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170766785592
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/180781956730
Thurmond
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170766785592
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/180781956730
Thurmond
I like that those are all-in-one units. I could get a couple first-surface mirrors to reflect the beam. I was looking at this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/180950109519
but I'd need to cool it and have wires on the boom.
I'd rather just get a couple of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380171994697
and one of the units you suggested for a much cleaner setup.
On both of the plotters, I could put the module where the pen tray is. Now to wait for my hobby fund to be replenished and build a ventilated case.
Thanks Thurmond!
Cheers!
Randall
http://www.ebay.com/itm/180950109519
but I'd need to cool it and have wires on the boom.
I'd rather just get a couple of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380171994697
and one of the units you suggested for a much cleaner setup.
On both of the plotters, I could put the module where the pen tray is. Now to wait for my hobby fund to be replenished and build a ventilated case.
Thanks Thurmond!
Cheers!
Randall
I've been thinking along the same lines. I finally found a plotter and have been very happy with it. But it's not a pen plotter like I lusted after years ago and it doesn't have an open paper path so I can't plot directly to foamboard which was my initial hope. Still it beats the heck out of printing on 8x10 paper!
Have you looked at the RAMPS board for reprap? I know even HK sells them now for about $20 you'd still have to add stepper controller but HK has those too at a good price (<$10) I've been pricing bits to build a reprap of some form for a few years and HK's prices are about the same as what I've seen on ebay. You'd still need an arduino mega but those can be hand for about $16 now (I think I paid $17 delivered to my door off of ebay from a US seller on my last one.)
Anyway going with something like RAMPS over a generic motor driver might work out better since it's designed specifically around this kind of motion control rather than just controlling motors. Basically there's nothing new or groundbreaking here so why not leverage the work that's already been done is what I'm thinking. Plus then if you decide to go from a plotter to a 3D printer you've got the electronics
The mega board that wound up as my first multi controller was actually originally purchased for a reprap - but I still can't bring myself to buy (and have had no luck finding) the rods and bearings at prices I'm willing to pay. (the reprap Simpson and Wally have had me really excited since they get rid of those expensive bits and look cooler...but they're still a bit too experimental.)
Have you looked at the RAMPS board for reprap? I know even HK sells them now for about $20 you'd still have to add stepper controller but HK has those too at a good price (<$10) I've been pricing bits to build a reprap of some form for a few years and HK's prices are about the same as what I've seen on ebay. You'd still need an arduino mega but those can be hand for about $16 now (I think I paid $17 delivered to my door off of ebay from a US seller on my last one.)
Anyway going with something like RAMPS over a generic motor driver might work out better since it's designed specifically around this kind of motion control rather than just controlling motors. Basically there's nothing new or groundbreaking here so why not leverage the work that's already been done is what I'm thinking. Plus then if you decide to go from a plotter to a 3D printer you've got the electronics
The mega board that wound up as my first multi controller was actually originally purchased for a reprap - but I still can't bring myself to buy (and have had no luck finding) the rods and bearings at prices I'm willing to pay. (the reprap Simpson and Wally have had me really excited since they get rid of those expensive bits and look cooler...but they're still a bit too experimental.)
JasonEricAnderson
Senior Member
That is a really good idea. I hadn't thought of using a 3d Printer board for the controller. I don't know why I didn't, just thought they would be more expensive than just running it via a shield or breakout board. I've been wanting to take the plunge with 3D Printing as well. I saw a Printrbot Simple in person a few weeks ago and that's where I got the idea to us Kevlar cord first for my travel. That will be less expensive and easier to work with than belts or screw drives. Just brainstorming here:
Parts
Tools
Cutting wood: I don't have a table saw but I should be able to cut what I need between my circular saw, router, dremel knockoff, and Japanese wood saw.
Cutting Metal: Hacksaw, files, dremel knockoff
Electronics: The usual, soldering iron, solder, flux, snips, strippers, (heh,)
I don't see anything to tricky in the physical construction, the hard part will be figuring out a Gcode interrupter and how to get the work flow going from Inkscape -> GCode -> Motor/Servo Control.
Parts
- Two matched steppers
- Motor controler (3D printer controler or shield)
- Good quality MDF
- Aluminum angle for the travel rails
- Glide bearings for the travel rails
- Bolts, nuts, washers
- Kevlar cord for travel
- Small servo
- Hook up wire
- Ribbon cable
- Power supply (PC?? plenty of these laying around)
- Arduino (Uno for testing) Mega for final
- built in bubble levels
- Adjustable feet
Tools
Cutting wood: I don't have a table saw but I should be able to cut what I need between my circular saw, router, dremel knockoff, and Japanese wood saw.
Cutting Metal: Hacksaw, files, dremel knockoff
Electronics: The usual, soldering iron, solder, flux, snips, strippers, (heh,
)I don't see anything to tricky in the physical construction, the hard part will be figuring out a Gcode interrupter and how to get the work flow going from Inkscape -> GCode -> Motor/Servo Control.
@randall_l Remember that IR requires special reflectors and lenses for collimation, usually thin film gold for the mirrors since it is near a perfect IR reflector.
@JEA my original ShapeOko CNC uses a Arduino Uno and a Stepper motor driver shield with Pololu drivers attached and cost me about $75 to build including the Uno. It can handle 4 axis's.
Thurmond
@JEA my original ShapeOko CNC uses a Arduino Uno and a Stepper motor driver shield with Pololu drivers attached and cost me about $75 to build including the Uno. It can handle 4 axis's.
Thurmond
Last edited:
JasonEricAnderson
Senior Member
No worries man. We're all here to help each other.
peddiparth
Member
I am working on the same problem you are trying to solve.
Since I scratch built my own 3D printer based on the Prusa i2 model, I know the problems with 2D XY gantry you are trying to build. And the biggest problem is scale. You are fixed to the size of the X and Y axes you build. If you want to increase the size, you have to break the printer/plotter down, and re-build.
That is why I approached the problem from a different angle. I am working on a solution similar to a Drawbot. Something similar to the one described here http://makerblock.com/2012/01/wanna-make-a-drawbot/ but with custom software that parses and draws straight/curved lines from either a pdf or scaled from a pic.
I have solved the XY motion problem with 2 stepper motors, pen holder, servo, Arduino clone and motor shield. I am currently working on the Processing code that will feed the information to Arduino.
Since I scratch built my own 3D printer based on the Prusa i2 model, I know the problems with 2D XY gantry you are trying to build. And the biggest problem is scale. You are fixed to the size of the X and Y axes you build. If you want to increase the size, you have to break the printer/plotter down, and re-build.
That is why I approached the problem from a different angle. I am working on a solution similar to a Drawbot. Something similar to the one described here http://makerblock.com/2012/01/wanna-make-a-drawbot/ but with custom software that parses and draws straight/curved lines from either a pdf or scaled from a pic.
I have solved the XY motion problem with 2 stepper motors, pen holder, servo, Arduino clone and motor shield. I am currently working on the Processing code that will feed the information to Arduino.
Dude! I have what I believe are the exact same motors you have! I got them from a pair of old printers, namely a Canon InkJet BC something... I have two of each. I was able to program my Arduino and set up a simple circuit for them - they run on 24 volts or something like that. If you still have the printer check for a driver inside it... I salvaged my 2 drivers.
Basically the driver allows you to control the ons and offs of the 24v line with the 5v data line from the Arduino.
I got a small program running but only a simple one - select number of steps and direction and execute.
I felt so successful when I managed to get them to work. I wanted to make a CNC like you, but my research turned up a big investment was required which I didn't have. Still don't.
If you need my pair of motors, I could donate them but I don't know how much it would cost to ship them...
peddiparth
Member
And then I find this link that has plans, and code for free.. http://www.carloratti.com/project/openwall/ Someone has already solved this problem. All we have to do is customize it to our own situations.
For more info on cnc check out www.cnczone.com, www.probotix.com has parts kits and quite a few good links and other info. www.hobbycnc.com has some good info and parts. You can get linear bearings from a number of places, here's a few I have looked into, Berg, Reid Supply, Quality Bearings & Components. I hope some of this info is helpful.
peddiparth
Member
I forgot to mention that I switched from motor shield to pololu stepper drivers. I could not figure out how to simultaneously drive both steppers together to achieve a straight line.
My concept of building on what already exists and avoiding rediscovering the wheel is going well. I like the Arduino code of the open wall project. It only needs a slight modification for running the pololu drivers. Going to tackle the Processing portion shortly.
The way I envision this working, is as follows:
1. Drawing in PDF converted to SVG. Or use inkscape to draw SVG.
2. SVG uploaded to Processing.
3. Select the portion of the SVG you want to draw to the foam board.
4. Calibration of Processing at runtime for the machine setup.
5. Start the drawing process to foam board.
6. Have the ability to pause drawing or re-do previous steps in case the ink runs out or does not get drawn properly.
Future idea:
Since there is already a project to control inkjet printer cartridges using arduino (5 pins only), I should be able to eventually use cartridges instead of a pen.
My concept of building on what already exists and avoiding rediscovering the wheel is going well. I like the Arduino code of the open wall project. It only needs a slight modification for running the pololu drivers. Going to tackle the Processing portion shortly.
The way I envision this working, is as follows:
1. Drawing in PDF converted to SVG. Or use inkscape to draw SVG.
2. SVG uploaded to Processing.
3. Select the portion of the SVG you want to draw to the foam board.
4. Calibration of Processing at runtime for the machine setup.
5. Start the drawing process to foam board.
6. Have the ability to pause drawing or re-do previous steps in case the ink runs out or does not get drawn properly.
Future idea:
Since there is already a project to control inkjet printer cartridges using arduino (5 pins only), I should be able to eventually use cartridges instead of a pen.
JasonEricAnderson
Senior Member
I got this back in my head. I don't know if I've mentioned it but I am NOT an engineer so anyone who is and can offer ideas or point out flaws please DO!
I'd been thinking of this as a CNC router table kind of design with a carriage that moves in both X and Y
But the more I got to thinking about it, and how paper plotters and inkjets work, I realized it might be better to approach it with a tractor feed for one of the axis that would pull the DTFB along.
In the second design there would be wheels that would grip the DTFB on both sides of the carriage to allow it to pull the material past the drawing line if needed. This arrangement would eliminate a whole set of rails and bearings. I can see a need to put some rollers or something in the DTFB channel to keep the material from dragging with friction but this arrangement seems much more K.I.S.S.
I'd been thinking of this as a CNC router table kind of design with a carriage that moves in both X and Y
But the more I got to thinking about it, and how paper plotters and inkjets work, I realized it might be better to approach it with a tractor feed for one of the axis that would pull the DTFB along.
In the second design there would be wheels that would grip the DTFB on both sides of the carriage to allow it to pull the material past the drawing line if needed. This arrangement would eliminate a whole set of rails and bearings. I can see a need to put some rollers or something in the DTFB channel to keep the material from dragging with friction but this arrangement seems much more K.I.S.S.
Looks like the PhlatPrinter concept.
http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/original-phlatprinter.95/
Thurmond
http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/original-phlatprinter.95/
Thurmond
JasonEricAnderson
Senior Member
That does look like a cool machine. I'm not thinking of having this do the cutting. That would be handy but I want the Flyplotter to be quiet and just "print" plans onto the foam board.
More doodling of the tractor roller idea
Similar threads
