jipp's first 250 fpv racer style build thread. lets rock.

[jipp]

This will be a build thread dedicated to learning how to build and fly a ZMR250. There will be a lot of firsts for me in this thread. I hope by posting everything and anything, others will be able to build a 250 size quad and have confidence in knowing they too can build one.

I will make mistakes, and do stupid things along the way im sure.. so I am gonna lean on the forum for help from time to time ( i will do my best to educate my self the best i can.. but the FT is a great resource so it would be stupid not to take advantage of it ), if you see something that could be done in a better way ( even if its cosmetic, im a little OCD about clean lines if possible; as a first build i will not beat my self up to bad about neatness. even if neatness usually means top shelf performance,etc.. less things to break, easier to debug, in general its just a good thing to strive for i think) so please speak up and throw opinions, ideas my way even if you have not tried them but thought on your next build it would be the better way to do it. I have zero problems with being corrected as long as you back it up with lots of technical jargon so we can all become just a little bit more intelligent.

To me FT is all about learning, and advancing the hobby of RC. With the aid of the internet we can form new friendships that have never been technically possible in the past. Can you imagine what telsa would of done with the technology, unfortunately, i can not.. but im sure he would of blown our minds. this is great point in time we live in from a technology stand point, heck even in medical and other sciences too.

so lets make some new friends, and lets get started on our first build. our first build will be a 250 size quad with a budget everyone should be able to afford over a few months. We will be using quality parts, I just sourced them from the web, and ebay looking for the best deal available. I sourced for them from the best deal i could find. im disable these days.. so funds do not come as easy as they once use too.. but the same could be said about a man or a women with a new family, so we all can benefit from a little creative accounting, and if we have to save so be it. however, even on a shoe string budget we all should be able to build and fly a good quality multirotor. with this also comes creativity. and iv always been the type of guy who would rather learn how to build something than buy it.. but do not be fooled.. this is NEVER cheaper, its always more expensive..its how i have always approached all my hobby's.

well with all that out of the way lets get on with the build. and see what kind of adventure this ZM250 Carbon fiber air frame will bring is over the next few months as we learn to build and fly it. lets get on with the project shall we...


On March 8th I ordered a ZMR250 FPV Carbon Fiber Frame from ebay for 139.00 with free shipping.
The kit arrived on Saint Patric's day March 17th ( this just happens to be my late grandmas birthday, in 1922 she was born in Ireland on the 17th.. i do not normally name things, you know cars, guitars, etc.... but i see some kind of Irish thing going on with this build maybe.. .. i guess my Irish ancestors were looking out for me.. ); It arrived exactly on the date the shipping label said it would. thats pretty quick i think considering it came from china. Here are some specs of the kit.

The specs of this project.
1 x QAV 250mm quadcopter CF frame

1 x CC3D flight controller

4 x Emax MT 1806 2280KV motor ( 2x CW + 2x CCW )

4 x Emax Simonk 12A ESC

8 x 5030 5x3" Gemfan propeller ( 4x CW + 4x CCW ) ( 2 random color,4pcs per color )

1 x XT60 plug

1x Gift Package (Accessories)


SPECS!

1: ZMR250 Carbon Fiber Frame.

QAV 250mm ARF CF frame ( they are calling it a QAV air frame, so im not sure if i should be referring to it as ZMR, or QAV.. hell its my build maybe ill just call it a Clover Leaf Quad 250. you know CLQ250.. its as good as anything else i guess.. )

- Wheelbase: 250mm
- Machine arm 3.0mm



Emax simonk 12A ESC

- Constant Current: 12A
- Input Voltage: 1-3 cell Lipo
- BEC: Yes
- BEC Output: 5V/1A
- PWM: 8 KHz
- Size: 22mm x 17mm x 7mm
- Weight: approx. 8g per one



Emax MT1806 2280KV motor:





CC3D flight controller

Fit for multi-rotor craft, helicopters, as well as fixed wing aircraft.



5030 5x3" CW CCW propeller







im still amazing at the shipping.. and being delivered on the day/date i was given. i was just assuming i had another week after that date.
anyhow, its a carbon fiber 250 FPV frame.. nothing special. looks like i maybe able to run 6x3 props? but only comes with 5x3. i will buy box of 5x3 props to learn on.. as my skill level goes up.. ill try a larger props.


i will post some of my own pictures later today.. cant find my SD card for my camera.. anyhow.. i tried to clean this up to make it a useful build thread. so look for more pictures and some thoughts about going forward. ill be asking for some pointers to lead me in the right direction.. but for now this is a much better post than yesterdays pathetic attempt at showing some excitement. i am truly excited to get started on this build and learn to fly a larger 250 multirotor.. heck i found my sell flying my blade nano in the dark dis morning. it was really hard with the only source of light was the binding red or blue light. after i hovered a few battery's i came in dis morning and i added 4LED lights. after my battery's are charge will go out and see if that helps. i hope everyone is having a great morning. its pretty painful for me.. so i just trying to do things to take my mind off it.. like redoing this thread and adding LED to the blade nano QX.

chris.

 

[ExperimentalRC]

The ZMR250 frame is able to run 6 inch props stock, but you should probably stick to 5 inch props when you are learning. Since 5 inch props are smaller its harder to break them. You'll also be able to drop down much faster, but the advantages of the 6 inch props outweigh the disadvantages when you are more experienced.

 

[quadsview]

Go you, I look forward to seeing your build. Is it real carbon fiber?

 

[jipp]

Go you, I look forward to seeing your build. Is it real carbon fiber?

yeah, its carbon fiber. i email and ask before hand before i purchased.. the guy even spoke perfect English. i cleaned up the thread to make it more of a build thread that i hope others will be able to learn from in the future after i have moved onto other builds.. as it seems this is the perfect frame for ones first build. ..
i will add more pictures of the frame, and all the parts etc.. later this morning. i need to find my SD card first...
and go from there on how to approach the build.

chris.

 

[Epitaph]

OCD?? You've seen me with my builds and I like to have things neat and I wasn't happy with the lighting on the Diatone frame because the wiring didn't come out neat hehehehe

I'll help out in what I can... one thing, those ESCs you put them down as being SimonK. They are called the "Simon Series", but evidently that doesn't mean they run SimonK, according to testers on RCGroups. Not to worry though, because it turns out they are running a version of BLHeli!! So you're not losing out on anything in that sense!!!

I think it's a good choice of frame... Bruce Simpson from RCModelReviews has been complaining about that the arms delaminate and that they snap along the holes and things like that... but he also happens to be the ONLY one that complains about the ZMR250, and also the ONLY one that complains also about the Diatone frames, saying they are all "crap" (direct quote). In this sense, seeing the results the rest of the world has with them in comparison with Bruce, I think the only thing that is "crap" is the way he treats them in the air, and I would be curious to see how those non-recorded flights go to end up in that state, you know, the odd forest jumping out of the middle of nowhere 50 times in one battery...

So all I can really say on that aspect of things is "GO GET 'EM TIGER!!!"

 

[jipp]

The ZMR250 frame is able to run 6 inch props stock, but you should probably stick to 5 inch props when you are learning. Since 5 inch props are smaller its harder to break them. You'll also be able to drop down much faster, but the advantages of the 6 inch props outweigh the disadvantages when you are more experienced.

ok, thanks.. he calls it a QAV frame.. i think im just gonna call it CLQ250. as it arrived on saint patrics day, im irish.. so clover leaf quad 250 size frame is as good as any, eh. laughs.. serious tho, thanks for the tips on props i like i can go larger at a later date.. for now i will get a box of them cheap 5x3 gemfans that break by looking at them. seems ill have to spend about 80 bucks on props, wonder how many box's till i can fly and not break a prop every single flight. lol

well i will post pictures of the frame and other bits and what not and see if we cant figure out a plan of attack for this build. i clean up my original post to hopefully make it easier to use as a build along in the future or as a resource.. as it seems the 250 is a good cheap option for someone wanting to get into multirotors, i think it will be a good first build airframe. i can only imagine a few others will be inspired to build from my thread.. because lets be honest if i can build one anyone can.. and thats just the truth.

once i can find my SD card ill get some better pictures up and we can start this build thread.
for now ill take my pain meds, and wait for the battery's to my blade nano qx to charge up, i added LED little while ago so i can fly at 3am in the morning when my leg hurts so much i cant sleep.. at least i can fly when its dead calm. so much wind last few days and the nano no likes wind i have found out. LOL, anyhow, i need to ice my leg down now. .

rock on.
chris.

 

[Epitaph]

One way to be sure it is carbon fibre on arrival is if you get for example one of the arms, sand a small piece on 2 sides of it, so that you can get to the fibres behind the "varnish", then use a multimeter to test continuity between those 2 points. If you get some continuity (with resistance of course), then it's carbon fibre.

 

[jipp]

OCD?? You've seen me with my builds and I like to have things neat and I wasn't happy with the lighting on the Diatone frame because the wiring didn't come out neat hehehehe

I'll help out in what I can... one thing, those ESCs you put them down as being SimonK. They are called the "Simon Series", but evidently that doesn't mean they run SimonK, according to testers on RCGroups. Not to worry though, because it turns out they are running a version of BLHeli!! So you're not losing out on anything in that sense!!!

I think it's a good choice of frame... Bruce Simpson from RCModelReviews has been complaining about that the arms delaminate and that they snap along the holes and things like that... but he also happens to be the ONLY one that complains about the ZMR250, and also the ONLY one that complains also about the Diatone frames, saying they are all "crap" (direct quote). In this sense, seeing the results the rest of the world has with them in comparison with Bruce, I think the only thing that is "crap" is the way he treats them in the air, and I would be curious to see how those non-recorded flights go to end up in that state, you know, the odd forest jumping out of the middle of nowhere 50 times in one battery...

So all I can really say on that aspect of things is "GO GET 'EM TIGER!!!"

good morning, yeah you do have a thing for neatness. heh. thanks for correcting the SImon thing. i knew that was the firmware, and they are Emax brand ESC. but for my first build on a budget. ill be ok even if i do break a arm. and you are right iv seen how bruce flys.. he is pretty rough. lol. much rougher than ill be for a while, as im still learning to fly. yeah, one person out of a large group. if they were really bad, i think we would here more complaints.. i have zero illusions about this carbon being as good as what blackout uses.. but its not a 150.00 either.. so yeah. if this air frame helps people get into multirotors so be it.

chris.

 

[Epitaph]

One thing Bruce does mention in one of his videos is of a guy on Ebay that makes replacement arms that are of (according to him) better quality, that ammounting to him saying "not crap". Might be an idea to scan through his video where he is holding his ZMR and talking about it, I think it's one where he talks about the delaminating, and if the other guy has them at a reasonable price, keep a hold of his contact in case you are unfortunate and have a bad experience with them, that way you can fix it up nice without having to go all out on a new frame.

And one thing to think of... if the ZMR is so "crap", then why does he keep on using it?? He usually ditches other "crap" things, especially considering how many miniquads that guy has to choose from (maybe I should make a Youtube channel saying everything is "crap", if that means I get free miniquads in the post all the time... not to mention t-shirts!!!)!!!

 

[Epitaph]

One thing I was thinking of, and actually was considering the other day, those landing gear that the ZMR comes with ARE a little "crap", but you have those 2 holes just before you reach the motor mount. Now, what about, get some longish M3 screws, like 15mm or something like that, put that through one of those holes per arm, then on the bottom screw on those "big fat thumb" replacement stick ends that you can get for the transmitter, which are M3 also... they would make for perfect landing gear, and you can even put one colour on the back and another on the front!!

http://www.banggood.com/Transmitter-Umbrella-Metal-Rocker-For-Futaba-Walkera-WFLY-FLYSKY-JR-p-910496.html

 

[cranialrectosis]

Way to go, Jipp. I am looking forward to this build and have been for a while.

Check out Soma's videos on how to build a WarpQuad.

He covers a bunch of the same issues you will be dealing with and he has a very clean build style. These should help you get a plan of attack for your 250.

Welcome to the party, Jipp! Please film the maiden.

 

[jhitesma]

Looks like a good start. I'd of course suggest going with Tau on that CC3D instead of OP

The emax ESC's are indeed running BLheli despite their name. I would suggest stick programming them to at least disable the low voltage cut out, but also to raise the PWM to it's highest setting and bump the motor timing to medium-high. That's how I run them with those motors and it makes for a nice package on 6x45 props. There's no real point in flashing a newer version of BLheli on them...you could...and you could gain oneshot. But they won't do damped light/regen so there's not a lot to be gained by adding oneshot.

The motors will handle 6045's in my experience. That's about all fly mine on. I wouldn't buy a bunch of those gemfan 5" props though. Nice thing about them being so soft is they bend and bounce back in crashes a lot so you actually break them less than you may expect given how weak they are. But the performance on better props is SO much better you'll want to upgrade pretty quickly.

 

[jipp]

hi guys, been a rough week. starting to feel better now. all i have done was take the parts out of the package and put them on my table and took a few photos.

here are some shots of the product. i find it quite amusing how all the parts say.. "for multirotors" i guess its big money to make sure all your parts are known for multirotors yeah. heh. i will keep in mind about touching the ESC.. but thats a ways away for now. i probably wont be able to do much till next month. i need to figure out what size screws etc i need to upgrade to aluminum.

also i agree the feet are cheap, and to low for my taste. i will need to come up with something better i think that is at least 3" tall heck i do not have any loctite either on hand.. so need to buy some blue stuff..

the motors come in a nice package and has a nice box.. i figured they be in zip lock bags or eggshell plastic which i hate, always end up cutting my hands up getting stuff out of that plastic welded stuff.

so i need to figure out what size bolts/screws/nuts i need are these pretty much standard? does someone sell a kit for aluminum upgrade?
i need to get some loctite.
i will need to source some parachute chord.
start thinking about taller legs.
i do have a lemon 6ch RX i can use. so i do not think i need to buy a new RX. i still need to buy a TX yet, and i need to get a battery charger yet.
not sure what i will need to plug the FC into the computer, hopefully its just a mini USB cable. im leaving the ESC, and the FC in its static protection plastic till im ready for it.

the kit was nice enough to come with nylon stand off for the FC and the Power Board.

im happy with the quality of what i got.. shipping was very fast.

since i wont be doing much until next month ( i do have some pedals im considering selling to fund this.. but i dunno, its just a hassle to sell things ).. here are some pictures of the actual parts i received.

also, ill take your advice on the gemfan blades. i will need to buy lots of props tho.. so i guess spending a 100.00 on props is not a great idea till one knows what kind of props are better for his flying. but i sure do like the sounds of having a box of props on hand and ready. heh. it will be nice once im flying, and the money goes into battery's and props. and not tools, parts, or other needed items to get into this hobby.


chris.

 

[jipp]

Way to go, Jipp. I am looking forward to this build and have been for a while.

Check out Soma's videos on how to build a WarpQuad.

He covers a bunch of the same issues you will be dealing with and he has a very clean build style. These should help you get a plan of attack for your 250.

Welcome to the party, Jipp! Please film the maiden.

thanks for the link, i will go check them out now. i will be sure to video the maiden. maybe 2 months out. we see what happens.

chris.

 

[jipp]

Looks like a good start. I'd of course suggest going with Tau on that CC3D instead of OP

The emax ESC's are indeed running BLheli despite their name. I would suggest stick programming them to at least disable the low voltage cut out, but also to raise the PWM to it's highest setting and bump the motor timing to medium-high. That's how I run them with those motors and it makes for a nice package on 6x45 props. There's no real point in flashing a newer version of BLheli on them...you could...and you could gain oneshot. But they won't do damped light/regen so there's not a lot to be gained by adding oneshot.

The motors will handle 6045's in my experience. That's about all fly mine on. I wouldn't buy a bunch of those gemfan 5" props though. Nice thing about them being so soft is they bend and bounce back in crashes a lot so you actually break them less than you may expect given how weak they are. But the performance on better props is SO much better you'll want to upgrade pretty quickly.

thanks for the tip about not going over board with props yet. im glad this is documented, as i will be sure to give the ESC a little loving as you recommend. im aways from that point. unfortunately, leg has been giving me problems over the last few days.. the weather has not help. been rather cold here and wet.

i did buy this kit because i knew the tau would work with this board, also i plan on going BrainFPV down the road.
so I figure i may as well learn the basics of it now.. so this FC made the most logic. I could of went with a naze, but, whatever, i like what i saw int he auto tune videos.. ill dig deeper once i gat to that point. quite a few foot steps from running yet. or flying i guess it would be.

 

[jipp]

One thing I was thinking of, and actually was considering the other day, those landing gear that the ZMR comes with ARE a little "crap", but you have those 2 holes just before you reach the motor mount. Now, what about, get some longish M3 screws, like 15mm or something like that, put that through one of those holes per arm, then on the bottom screw on those "big fat thumb" replacement stick ends that you can get for the transmitter, which are M3 also... they would make for perfect landing gear, and you can even put one colour on the back and another on the front!!

http://www.banggood.com/Transmitter-Umbrella-Metal-Rocker-For-Futaba-Walkera-WFLY-FLYSKY-JR-p-910496.html

yeah, that could work. iv seen others use the aluminum stands off like that are used for the air frame used for feet. i thought that looked flimsy, but after seeing the product in my hand it should be strong enough.. add them for landing pads, could work well. im thinking i want at least 3" for the height to get it up and out of the rocks.

 

[jipp]

Question - im bored so i decided i could take the frame out, and assemble it to see how it fits together and get a better idea of
what im working with.. is it ok if i take say 600 grit sand paper to the edges of the carbon? and round the edges a bit. nothing extreme just enough to knock the sharp edge off. i think by doing this it will take damage better.. as a round edge will deflect its impact
better than say a sharp 90 degree edge with can splinter.
its funny seeing these 250s i thought they were bigger than they really are.. they are about 2 and half blade nano qx's lined up.
also the rubber that came for the camera mount is soft, should make for a good cushion. i also figured that would be much harder from what iv read.

i think i maybe able to do more than i originally thought.. ill see what i can do in the morning. i thinking i should be able to work on what needs to be solder etc. so I will play around with it in the morning.
chris.

 

[C0d3M0nk3y]

is it ok if i take say 600 grit sand paper to the edges of the carbon? and round the edges a bit. nothing extreme just enough to knock the sharp edge off.

A lot of manufacturers recommend doing this with 400 grit or so. 600 should be fine.

Make sure you do the sanding under running water so you don't have carbon dust floating around.

 

[jhitesma]

Not just OK but generally encouraged. Sharp edges can cut wires easily and CF is conductive so that means shorts. I would suggest starting with some files or 400grit before going to the 600. Even 400 goes kind of quick against CF. Just be sure to use wet/dry and do it under water. It doesn't have to be running, but it's easiest since you'll be changing it constantly otherwise. I'd also suggest wearing gloves.

I spent almost 2 hours doing my emax frame and that's with G10/CF hybrid material. Here's the last hour condensed into two minutes:

I've done a few other CF frames since then and I have to say don't skip the files. I have on the last few frames and it's made for a lot more work with the sandpaper and I still have sharper edges.

The frame I did with small needle files then sandpaper is wonderful to hold and silk smooth on every edge. My frames I skipped the files on - they're not sharp..but they're not silky smooth either.

 

[cranialrectosis]

The first build video from Soma for the WarpQuad that I linked to above walks through sanding and prepping carbon fiber.