Here's how I bow outlines. I make a template from the plans, out of dollar tree foam board (paper removed). Be sure the shape is size of the inside of the desired outline and if you are bowing thicker sections you can use two layers of foam board. I never use sticks thicker than 1/16" or you risk kinking. I have a 4 foot long 1 inch PVC tube, with a cap, that I use for soaking. I always try to leave at least 2 inches extra on each end. For really light planes, two strips works and if you want it beefier, you can use 3 or even 4. I line up the sticks and use medium CA to glue one end of the sticks together. You don't need more than about a half inch bonded. I also try to select wood that is not too hard; really hard balsa is more prone to kinking and cracking. I soak the wood for at least 30 minutes, and I start with hot water. At the 30 minute mark I pull the sticks and check pliability. If they still seem resistant to bending, I give then another 15 minutes. If after an hour they are still stiff, I break out the Windex with ammonia. A shot of ammonia on the outside of each strip does wonders. Also, be sure the form is extended past the shape so you have a place initially tape the sticks to the foam. Tape the bonded end first since the sticks need to slide on each other as you bend them around the form. I'll usually pull one layer around at a time and tape the opposite end. Then, with the other sticks not bent yet, I put a thin layer of wood glue (I use Titebond II) on the stick previously bowed. The next stick is then pulled over the first stick and I remove the tape from the end and tape down both layers together. I repeat this until all layers are bent. As I pull the last layer around I really work to get rid of any gaps between the wood and add additional strips of tape as I go, to firmly hold the strips together, and to the foam. The fact that the wood is wet gives a little more open time on the glue and you can work the part a little more. Now, here's the cool part, or rather the hot part. I know it seems like this is time consuming, but once you get the hang of it goes pretty quick. Back to the hot part. I take the form, with the wood taped down, and put it in the microwave (when the wife isn't looking), and nuke it for about 10 seconds, let it cool, repeat until the wood is dry. Unless the section is really thick, it usually takes around a minute to get it dry and ready to remove from the form. If you nuke it too long, the foam melts to the wood and it's a real pain to get it off the foam. I'll snap some pictures of a some finished parts and edit this post to add them.
EDIT: These are the tail feathers for an Arctic Tern, build from the old RCM plans. Notice that these are SIX layers thick. This is one of the first things I bowed. Yes, it's been this way for years.... These pieces were actually bowed around pins on the table. This was before I discovered the foam method. The pins leave dents, where the foam and tape method leaves no marks. These tail feathers are REALLY over built. knowing what I know now about bowing, I probably would have adjusted my form to use half as many layers on both the horizontal and the rudder. This arrangement is stout, a Masonry Bavarian Outhouse comes to mind....
Also of note, the horizontal and elevator were bent in one piece and they sawed apart after the internal framing was added.
This close up shows the dents from the pins.
The Arctic Tern was an old glow design, so it's pretty overbuilt for electric. I have it almost all framed out, but kind of ran out of steam when I started to realize how fast it was going to have to fly... I'll probably still finish it, but I am also building another one, using the RCM plans for the basic outline, but framing it as a lighter stick frame more suitable to electric power.
In contrast, here are the tail feathers for the Cessna 195 I am building for the forum BBA.
The 195 is a larger plane, but will weigh much less and fly much slower.