Motor smoked and ESC bad........

[Rcflier1966]

I recently decided to get back into rc flying.
I have flown glow engines in the past and after watching flite test videos, I wanted to give electric a try. But so far my experience has not been encouraging. I ordered the stomp & ski value bundle with
EMAX GT2215/10 1100kv motor with 10x4.5 props
30A ESC with XT60 connector and 3.5 mm bullet connectors
Plus Tattu 3 cell 1800 mAh battery

I had scratch built a nutball, so I put these electrics on this plane.
I had 4 flights with less than 20 secs each on it when the motor smoked.
I ordered a replacement motor (FT Radial 2212B 1050kV)
I decided to bench test the setup before installing
Connected the motor to the ESC and connected the battery to the ESC. AS SOON AS THE BATTERY WAS CONNECTED THE NEW MOTOR SMOKED.
It seems that the ESC is fried. I am very discouraged and don't want to spend any more money until I can get some advice, answers........
As far as I can tell there should be nothing wrong with the set up.
Note the motor screws did not go into the windings and the back shaft on the first motor had plenty of clearance to prevent overloading the motor.

Any help will be greatly appreciated

 

[Mr NCT]

Wow, that's frustrating and especially on your first electric set up. I suspect your ESC went bad for some reason and smoked your first motor and then smoked the replacement motor. Physical damage to the esc from a crash? Bare spots on the output leads shorted together? Weak esc right out of the box? Your guess is as good as mine. I bought a higher end esc (not from here) that gave up on it's second power up. When I emailed the vendor the response was that it was OBVIOUSLY something I'd done wrong. If it had been my first esc and motor I might have believed them. They did mail me another, by the way.
Bad escs do happen, don't give up. I've had 1 bad out of a dozen. If you're sure it wasn't damaged or shorted out contact the store and see what they say.

 

[Shurik-1960]

This 256W motor: 26-30 A in load. I have such an engine running perfectly with a 40A turnigy. Everything can be repaired: rewind the motor, open the heat shrink and solder the burnt keys. Only the right hands and desire are needed. If you like experiments, buy a wattmeter and you will always know what will burn first: an engine or a voltage regulator. Yes, I use a screw for this 9050 motor.

 

[quorneng]

Rcflier1966
Depending on which web site you look at the EMAX GT2215/10 1100kv is rated for 18A for 30 seconds.
It is possible that you over loaded the motor so it smoked and created an internal short circuit. This in turn would then very likely fry the ESC.
Unlucky for the ESC failed to 'short circuit' but it can happen. It would then smoke any motor that was connected to it.

As has been mentioned a Watt meter used in the bench test would tell you straight away how close you were running to either the motor or the ESC to its limit. A Watt meter gives a 'real time' reading so if you see the Amps climbing towards the limit you stop before anything get damaged.

For electrics to fly well they have to be run quite close to their specification limits so checking what is actually happening is important.

 

[Shurik-1960]

The wattmeter allows you to select the optimal propeller for the motor-regulator-battery group. You want a big propeller-put and see the current consumption.You will immediately know whether you can do it or not.

 

[Rcflier1966]

Thanks for the suggestions. I have a lot to learn about Brushless Electric RC.
I will post updates later

 

[Shurik-1960]

https://aliexpress.ru/item/10050048...l=1007.38956.333894.0&pvid=23bdfee3-d9f3-4592 -b570-cdcca2eb95ca&_t=gps-id :пcOrderDetail,scm-url:1007.38956.333894.0,pvid:23bdfee3-d9f3-4592-b570-cdcca2eb95ca,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238112%231997&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A% 2212000030754012744 %22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%2228956%22%7D&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21RUB%211014.08%21689.61%21%21%21%21%21%4021165ff816804963104985886ecb9b%2112000030754012744%21rec%21RU%21130257306&sku_id=12000030754012744
an inexpensive solution to all your problems.

 

[MicroMan75]

I did this myself when I first started flying. I had a 20A ESC on a motor that should have had at least a 30A ESC. Now I go with 40A ESC on just about ALL of my builds. Have not had a problem since. I also learned that not all ESCs are created equal. You can expect to get what you pay for if you purchase a cheap one.

 

[Rcflier1966]

UPDATE:
I contacted Flite Test and sent the bad components back.
They determined the ESC went bad and fried the motors.
A BIG "THANK YOU" to Eddie and Josh!
They replaced both motors and upgraded the ESC to a 40 amp.
I also purchased a watt meter and an electronic "Smoke Stopper"
As for now, I set the throttle limit on the radio to about 12 amps at full throttle.
I'm gonna play conservative for a while

 

[Mr NCT]

UPDATE:
I contacted Flite Test and sent the bad components back.
They determined the ESC went bad and fried the motors.
A BIG "THANK YOU" to Eddie and Josh!
They replaced both motors and upgraded the ESC to a 40 amp.
I also purchased a watt meter and an electronic "Smoke Stopper"
As for now, I set the throttle limit on the radio to about 12 amps at full throttle.
I'm gonna play conservative for a while

That's really good to hear. The FT crew comes through again.

 

[ldharris84]

UPDATE:
I contacted Flite Test and sent the bad components back.
They determined the ESC went bad and fried the motors.
A BIG "THANK YOU" to Eddie and Josh!
They replaced both motors and upgraded the ESC to a 40 amp.
I also purchased a watt meter and an electronic "Smoke Stopper"
As for now, I set the throttle limit on the radio to about 12 amps at full throttle.
I'm gonna play conservative for a while

I wasn't as lucky as you. See this thread I started today.

BAD ESC - Fried 4 receivers