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Multirotor help!

#24
Wait, a flight controller is the same as a reciever? Right?
no, flight controller in short is the brain of the quad. receiver\ RX. is a separate component, usually, that receives commands from the transmitter and relays it to the flight controller\ FC.
as to your post about motors, i'd stay away from the 2700kv, way to fast for newer pilot. 2400kv would be better imo.

the matek brand in general is pretty solid stuff, they have real good documentation\ wiring diagrams and such on their website.

my 2 bits
dave
 
#26
the racestar stuff can be hit or miss, never used any of it personally. but if i were going to try racestar i would feel more secure buying it from RDQ.
personally like spedix esc's, there a little more $$ but they have been solid for me.

those last two VTX's in your list are intended for, i beleive, for micro size quads, they would do the job, but have 20x20 and 16x16 hole patterns
the AKK i've heard good things about. RDQ has their mach series vtx's that are good and not over $$ .

if i was going to cut corners i'd do it with the video gear starting out and spend a little more on the stuff that keeps it the air.

and another 2 bits

dave
 
#28
no, not on that particular one, that one would require a separate PDB. they have the F405 ctr and F722se are both AIO (all in one) boards.
AIO boards have larger solder pads usually 2 of them at each corner where the ESC's connect directly to the FC
i prefer AIO's with individual esc's out on the arms.
 

FDS

Well-known member
#30
4:1 ESC’s do work, but they have the disadvantage of if you hit something and a motor shorts the ESC (common when learning) then you kill the whole 4 in 1 not just a single $10 esc. I would use separate ones for your first build.
I have only used T motor LF40’s or Racerstar 2306/2400. The T motors were vastly better. Can’t comment on the ones you linked, not tried them. Cheap motors are less efficient, heavier and not as powerful as more expensive ones, so that’s a consideration.
The Matek board is fairly easy to set up, my one flew well.
 
#31
OK so this is the final list of parts for the quadcopter. It will probably be a few months before i can get them. I am first getting a 3d printer, an upgrade for it, and some filament. Then after i do some more yard-work and babysitting (BTW if you need someone to do ANYTHING for money thats legal close to Colorado Springs please DM me) I am going to get a FT dart with electronics and battery. THEN i can get the quad parts and batteries.

Frame: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chameleon-...m1ef3f69fb5:g:lgsAAOSw6tNbWEW0&frcectupt=true

Receiver: https://www.horizonhobby.com/spektrum-dsmx-quad-race-receiver-with-diversity-p-spm464

AIO Flight Controller: https://www.racedayquads.com/collec...ght-f4-flight-controller-aio-bff4-by-fpvmodel

ESC's: https://www.racedayquads.com/collec...cts/spedix-30a-esc-hv-3-6s-dshot-600-blheli_s

Motors: https://www.racedayquads.com/products/dys-samguk-motor-2206-2700kv
I am gonna get the 2700kv ones only because i can run it on a lower throttle setting to make up for the higher KV, but i want to have a very powerful and fast quad.

Props: https://www.banggood.com/10-Pairs-GEPRC-5040-V2-5-Inch-3-Blade-Propeller-Transparent-Color-For-RC-Multirotor-FPV-Racing-Drone-p-1169484.html?utm_campaign=5635792_1001216&utm_content=1081&p=CG24181822629201506N&ID=515406&cur_warehouse=USA

VTX: https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-TX...=1081&p=CG24181822629201506N&cur_warehouse=CN
So i assume when you get the camera you strip the JST plug and then solder them to the AIO Flight Controller?

Camera: I am gonna use this on my FT dart that i build and if they are good, i will use them for the quad.
https://www.banggood.com/JJA-CM1200...181822629201506N&ID=22444070&cur_warehouse=CN
If they don't work well then i will use a runcam mini swift 2.

As far as batteries do you think it would work to get one of each of these?

3S: I am gonna get one of these: https://www.racedayquads.com/collec...po-battery-pack-w-xt60-plug-for-2-and-3-quads

For a 4s battery which one of these should i get?
https://www.racedayquads.com/collec...75c-fpv-racing-battery-for-3-and-4-quads-xt60

https://www.racedayquads.com/collec...hl-g-plus-1300mah-14-8v-4s-100c-li-po-battery

I am gonna also get liftoff to help me learn. I have a dx6e so how do i connect it to my computer? Thx
 

FDS

Well-known member
#33
Antennae can help signal reception , but what increases range is power output of the VTX. You will want a pair of antennae, one for the VTX and one for the receiver and the cloverleaf/mushroom type ones are pretty good. If your goggles have two aerials then it’s useful to have one patch (a narrow but focused signal path) and one mushroom/pagoda (a wide donut signal path) to maximise reception.
The quad antenna should be small and fairly robust, since it will get crashed.
I have the Eachine 58xx series VTX on one of my quads, it’s been really good. I run it at 500mW. You can tune the power setting through Betaflight and by using the button on the board.
 
#34
Ok and how does the quad attach to my computer for betaflight? Is betaflight free? Also how do i connect my DX6e to lifoff for practicing flying? If i get one 3s bat and one 4s which 4s would you get? Thanks
 

FDS

Well-known member
#36
Don’t buy 3s batteries for a 5”. Both Psyborg and I have already told you to buy 1500 mah 4s packs. Read people’s replies.
You should use an XT60 connector on the quad, you can buy ones pre soldered with tails like this one, shown as an example. The wiring diagram and Flight Controller have labels where to solder the main battery wire. It’s the big ass pads sticking out the side on the Matek board. There’s a capacitor to put over the pads too, make sure you get it the right way around as well. Make a Smoke Stopper as well, an in-line 3A mini blade fuse, that you put in the first time you fire up the quad, that will save you big money for not much in parts, lots of how to vids on YouTube for that.
The DXE is not a good transmitter IMO, especially not for multi rotor use. It has no screen or telemetry, both of which are very useful. I wouldn’t buy one. It also needs an app to change anything. Not worth spending on.
It will be harder to set up for sim since most quad pilots don’t use it you will have nobody to copy. It doesn’t have a Trainer port so you can’t hook it up with a cheap lead.
 

FDS

Well-known member
#37
Also it’s OK to not know stuff! I have to ask for help every day with this hobby, either here or by searching and watching/reading online guides etc and working it out! I am the wrong side of 40 and have been building stuff since I was 12.
You won’t know everything all the time, new stuff crops up every time you build or fly. I found it best to break everything down into stages, so first I learned about frames, what was good, what to avoid etc, then I bought and built my frame.
After that I learned about FC’s, then bought my FC and prepped all the pads (and did some soldering practice) Iwas going to use, worked out from the wiring diagram and other people’s builds. Plus learned how to clean up with IPA and check there were no shorts in my solder pads.
Then I learned about ESC’s and what to look for, bought those, hooked them up to my FC, soldered them to the pads prepared earlier.
Then I learned about transmitters and receivers, what would fit and what I could afford. Then I bought a TX and RX and added those to my build.
You get the picture. Slower building is cheaper and easier, you will make less mistakes and save money. New stuff comes out all the time, especially cameras and goggles, so buying them later will be better.
 
#38
I got liftoff and have been running it really well. I really enjoy it and it is very fun.

Back to the quad, If i get this camera and i have the Kylin 5" goggles does it matter if i get the NTSC or the PAL version?
https://www.banggood.com/JJA-CM1200...181822629201506N&ID=22444070&cur_warehouse=CN

As far as props go which set would you recommend that would give a good balance of power, speed, and efficiency?

https://www.banggood.com/10-Pairs-G...4181822629201506N&ID=515406&cur_warehouse=USA

https://www.banggood.com/2-Pair-DAL...custlinkid=237710&ID=515405&cur_warehouse=USA

https://www.banggood.com/2-Pairs-Da...704&custlinkid=237699&ID=224&cur_warehouse=CN

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H5FT7YV/?tag=lstir-20

Also if i get 4 of the previously linked motors than would i have to have too get two of the CW props and two CCW props? Or would i have to get two CW motors and two CCW motors? Thanks
 

FDS

Well-known member
#39
I would still buy a better camera. It doesn’t matter about NTSC/PAL, most goggles do both. You can just switch between them to see which works best.
The motors don’t matter on direction, many modern ones come with only CW threads and nylock nuts, it’s the thread direction that’s sided on cheaper ones. You can run them in either direction. If your motors are listed as Cw and CCW then you need two of each. You set the direction up before putting any props on, like this.
362F9786-4234-49BE-A969-C022D2D3961E.png
Props are sold in sets, 2 CW and 2CCW, you always need both as they match the above diagram of rotation.
Buy the 10 sets of props for your first flights, you are going to break lots. I run Dal Cyclone 5040 tri blades or Gemfan Flash 5152’s. You are not going to notice small changes in props for at least 3 months of flying, so don’t worry about that. Just make sure you have enough of the same make to cover breaking a few every couple of flights.
My advice is to still buy better gear in smaller batches. Build over a couple of months and end up with less compromises in your finished quad. My last build hit about $180 ish, which is cheap compared to some pre made.
 
#40
I would still buy a better camera. It doesn’t matter about NTSC/PAL, most goggles do both. You can just switch between them to see which works best.
The motors don’t matter on direction, many modern ones come with only CW threads and nylock nuts, it’s the thread direction that’s sided on cheaper ones. You can run them in either direction. If your motors are listed as Cw and CCW then you need two of each. You set the direction up before putting any props on, like this.
View attachment 131854
Props are sold in sets, 2 CW and 2CCW, you always need both as they match the above diagram of rotation.
Buy the 10 sets of props for your first flights, you are going to break lots. I run Dal Cyclone 5040 tri blades or Gemfan Flash 5152’s. You are not going to notice small changes in props for at least 3 months of flying, so don’t worry about that. Just make sure you have enough of the same make to cover breaking a few every couple of flights.
My advice is to still buy better gear in smaller batches. Build over a couple of months and end up with less compromises in your finished quad. My last build hit about $180 ish, which is cheap compared to some pre made.
Runcam micro swift it is! And ya, the build for this is still probably months or weeks away so thx!