My FT Simple Storch should arrive tomorrow! Tips or Pointers?!

Landon

New member
I should be receiving my Speed Build kit for the FT Simple Storch tomorrow, as well as my new Tran/Receiv. and I should be ready to fly after the build! Before I start, what tips/pointers do you all have to a first time builder, first time flier and a very hyped up 16 year old!?
 

pressalltheknobs

Posted a thousand or more times
Take it slow and make sure you build it right. Don't take short cuts until you know what you are doing. Pay attention to the build videos and make sure you understand the step before you commit to glue.
 

Craftydan

Hostage Taker of Quads
Staff member
Moderator
Mentor
Dry fit. Dry fit. Dry fit.

Before you put any glue in a seam, make sure it's folded the right way and the fold is clean -- check the channels are clear and all the bevels are cut all the way to the paper hinge.

. . . and drop by dollar tree and pick up 3-4 sheets of DTFB, then trace out the parts on the clean board. If you mess something up or *when* you crash and damage something, these will become your spare parts.

Also, consider doing something to waterproof it. DTFB isn't a high grade material, and will eventually warp and delaminate over time. It doesn't need to be done right away (and if you fly like many of us, the plane may not last lone enough to matter) but snow/rain/drizzle/BAD humidity will do nasty things to the paper. My go-to for waterproofing is the oil-based minwax polyurethane -- wipe on with a rag, wipe off with a rag, let it dry overnight. It stinks and I wear gloves and old clothes, but the planes become MUCH more durable (to anything but high-speed vertical landings ;) )
 

kulens

Member
Also, consider doing something to waterproof it. My go-to for waterproofing is the oil-based minwax polyurethane -- wipe on with a rag, wipe off with a rag, let it dry overnight.

As I'm from Europe and don't have access to DTFB, I'm using foam board without a layer of paper. Will a layer of varnish (like minwax) make the foam better protected? I've used tape to cover my scratch builds, but I might want to paint my next builds instead of using color tape. The only thing I'm afraid of is that the foam will have small holes and marks at the edges from landings etc.
 

Capt_Beavis

Posted a thousand or more times
watch the video many times. The hardest parts of the build are the wings and the gear in my opinion. For the wings, make sure your glue gun is hot, has a few stick with another handy, and take the time to let it set properly.
 

pressalltheknobs

Posted a thousand or more times
As I'm from Europe and don't have access to DTFB, I'm using foam board without a layer of paper. Will a layer of varnish (like minwax) make the foam better protected? I've used tape to cover my scratch builds, but I might want to paint my next builds instead of using color tape. The only thing I'm afraid of is that the foam will have small holes and marks at the edges from landings etc.

http://www.flitetest.com/articles/waterproofing-your-airplane
 
I'd recommend tracing out the speed build pieces to posterboard so you have a quick template to create a new piece if you mess something up or it breaks during a crash. It's much easier than printing out paper plans and rebuilding the piece that way.

I had no choice since my speed build kit came with the foam damaged too greatly to use.

I also recommend you get more plywood or buy the simple elements reinforcement disks to use where you use skewers to hold the wing down and for the power pod.

The wing can always benefit from a CF spar along with the foam boxed one you build. An alternative to a CF spar is wrapping the wing in a skin (tons of tape or something like laminating is good). A laminated wing will be extremely durable and very unlikely to fold assuming you built the wing well with the stock parts.

I've laminated the entire plane.

Can't tell you much more myself. Just finishing off my scratch built storch today.
 
In the build video it mentions sealing all the exposed edges with hot glue. I'd recommend doing it especially all the leading edges of tail section, sides of the wing and nose. Adding tape to the leading edges and hinges (ailerons, elevators etc) is also a good idea. This will help with crashes and if you make any cut through mistakes when cutting the hinges. I put traditional flaps on my storch. It takes two extra servos and an extra wye harness. They allow you to slow things down when you are learning to land. Makes landing a little less stressful. They work great for takeoff as well. Although they aren't really necessary for this plane.