New member!

[smiling albert]

How about this for an ESC??

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20AMP-20...a5cc3b3af:m:mKacTAOS8q7HySr-wZVSYkw:rk:1:pf:1

 

[FDS]

They are mostly designed for multi rotors and have no battery protection. Get a protected one if you can find it. Skywalker one here , worth paying the extra for one that’s not going to allow you to puff your pack.

 

[smiling albert]

Thanks
They only had a 40 A one available is that correct?

 

[FDS]

Here’s the 20A one.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hobbywin...042053?hash=item3fb810b405:g:f1MAAOSwdytavriO

Sorry, didn’t check the drop down menu. They sell those in lots of bricks and mortar model shops too.

 

[smiling albert]

Ordered all the bits,got 20 horns and 20 firewalls laser cut,so just about ready.
Thanks for all the help particularly FDS
Used 1.5 mm plywood,spot on for horns but still worried a little too thin for walls.
FDS said I’d be ok (but also thickness not critical) ,so....If stick 2 together would that be too thick?

 

[Hai-Lee]

Ordered all the bits,got 20 horns and 20 firewalls laser cut,so just about ready.
Used 1.5 mm plywood,spot on for horns but a little too thin for walls.
FDS said I’d be ok (but also thickness not critical) ,so....If stick 2 together would that be too thick?

As I use scrap 3mm plywood for my firewalls, (mini powerpods included), you will do fine!

Actually when fitting some of the slightly larger motors into the minis the extra thickness means that I can discard the "X" mount and mount the motor directly on the firewall and even countersink the screw holes so that the mounting screws are flush with the firewall on the inside of the powerpod.

Just what works for me!

Have fun!

 

[smiling albert]

Hi
FDS mentioned getting mounting screws for the motor at my local shop.
Are they special light weight ones for these kind of motors or will any screw do?

 

[buzzbomb]

Hi
FDS mentioned getting mounting screws for the motor at my local shop.
Are they special light weight ones for these kind of motors or will any screw do?

I will admit that I am guessing. But the weight of the size of screw we are talking is going to negligible regardless of what it is made of. I'd say if the screw fits, it'd be fine.

 

[FDS]

You don’t need aluminium or titanium ones. The mounting thread is M2. Get M2x6 screws. They will be short enough hopefully to not go through to touch the windings. Get some M2 washers as well.

 

[smiling albert]

Ok,stuck the plans together,sorry to sound daft but it is all supposed to fit on 1 sheet of FT foam board?
I guess it will if I cut round each piece of the plan slightly away from cutting lines ,glue it using my spray mount and then cut it out with scalpel.
Is that the correct way?

 

[buzzbomb]

Ok,stuck the plans together,sorry to sound daft but it is all supposed to fit on 1 sheet of FT foam board?
I guess it will if I cut round each piece of the plan slightly away from cutting lines ,glue it using my spray mount and then cut it out with scalpel.
Is that the correct way?

Just a few months ago, I was exactly where you are now. I explored many options and came up with a method that works for me. During that exploration, other members of our family chimed in with their methods, and I believe that between us we pretty well covered all the methods that work.

It's a little bit of reading, ignore where I go off topic, but here is that thread.

https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?threads/first-scratch-build.55846/page-13

 

[FDS]

I stick it down with the spray mount, cut all the parts out, peel the plan paper off, then assemble. I have no idea how many sheets it goes on. There’s no point in cutting twice by roughing out then cutting. If you want to reduce waste then do that on the paper plans only, then stick the roughed out parts to the foamboard.
I know some people like sticking it to card, cutting all that out to make templates, then doing the board but that makes twice the work.

 

[buzzbomb]

I stick it down with the spray mount, cut all the parts out, peel the plan paper off, then assemble. I have no idea how many sheets it goes on. There’s no point in cutting twice by roughing out then cutting. If you want to reduce waste then do that on the paper plans only, then stick the roughed out parts to the foamboard.
I know some people like sticking it to card, cutting all that out to make templates, then doing the board but that makes twice the work.

FDS! You're sounding a bit frisky! The "Just spray on the glue!" method didn't work for me. I build my planes in my bedroom and that method was just really messy and I like to be able to breathe.

The absolute fastest, most efficient route (outside of buying a speed build kit) would be having full-sized plans printed and spray glued onto the board. I can't do that in my bedroom. What I can do is print plans on cardstock. Cut them out. Pin, or tape them to the foamboard, trace the lines. Cut the foamboard.

 

[smiling albert]

Hi all
Up and running with the cutting,juniors do a grand job.
Couple of quick questions.
The motor that FDS reccommend has arrived .
Silly question but how do I remove the nose cone so I can thread the prop through the firewall ?
Also looks to be 4 screw holes in the back,do I use all 4 ?
Pictures attached for both

 

[smiling albert]

Hi all
Up and running with the cutting,juniors do a grand job.
Couple of quick questions.
The motor that FDS reccommend has arrived .
Silly question but how do I remove the nose cone so I can thread the prop through the firewall ?
Also looks to be 4 screw holes in the back,do I use all 4 ?
Pictures attached for both

Ok
Was a silly question,it screws off.
But other question ,do I need all 4 screws and also some little washers?

 

[FDS]

Motor mounts OUTSIDE the firewall, with the back against the wood, screws going through the back. The front bit with the prop mounted on SPINS ROUND (its an out runner) so unless you want the plane to spin don't put the prop shaft through the firewall.
I use two screws. You might need washers if the screws touch the insides of the motor. My TT needs washers, my SE5 did not need them.
You don't need to do anything with the motor until right at the end of the build, leave it in the box.

 

[smiling albert]

Ho
Thanks FDS
Will wait.
If you look at the picture of my motor it looks different from yours .
I don’t appear to have that shiny spacer between the motor and the firewall that the screw fits in?
Or am I being daft again?

 

[FDS]

That’s not a spacer, the firewall is 3d printed on that one.
The motor in that build is not the same either, the prop shaft screws onto the stator, the smaller 1806 doesn’t have a separate prop shaft, it’s all one unit.

 

[smiling albert]

Ok
Thanks ,so hopefully when I get some screws they’ll be long enough to reach throw the firewall and grip the motor?

 

[smiling albert]

BTW FDS mentioned
. You will also need some plastic tube for the TT to hold the control wires. A chupa chups lolly stick is the right size, treat the kids, save the sticks!
Is that the coffee stirring sticks mentioned in the video?I Take it plastic straws are too large?