NOOB Nation..Building Towards Flitefest 2023

[Yankee2003]

The fuselage was put together following the build video. The following modifications were taken from various posts on the forums. They might not be exactly like the ideas on the forum, but none of these ideas are mine. The top former idea is from Battleaxe and the bottom fuselage cutouts idea came from Tench745. The bottom hatch/cover seemed to show up in multiple posts.

Bottom hatch.

Top forward former…to be shaped/former to fit poster board decking…🤞

Bottom chord “lightening hole” aft. The forward hole I put in to help seat the power pod when I put it in. I am not doing a removable wing and the ability to seat the power pod into the slots of the top fuselage is going to be difficult. The slot will allow me to push up and seat the power pod before I slide the wing in. I have decided to glue the power pod in since keeping it swappable once the wing is on doesn’t seem plausible.
Hope this helps if you haven’t built one of these before.

 

[FoamyDM]

but I seal edges of the slot cut through with the Titebond.

are these edges of the cut-through in the fuselage for the wing, or for a control horn? just trying to clarify. also you said there were two items to get a good ironed trailing edge... the iron depicted...which other item a good tip I'll have to try, on the titebond glued edges.

 

[Yankee2003]

are these edges of the cut-through in the fuselage for the wing, or for a control horn? just trying to clarify. also you said there were two items to get a good ironed trailing edge... the iron depicted...which other item a good tip I'll have to try, on the titebond glued edges.

I was referring to the cut through of the aileron from the wing.
You might be referring to the two coats of very…very..thin Titebond on the exposed foam edges.

 

[Yankee2003]

Canopies….as I mentioned at the outset….without molding plastic canopies, and not owning a 3D printer…this is a personal obstace for me.
There is a Flite Test article that addresses the canopy for this particular aircraft. It has a downloadable plan to use so I thought I would try it out.

I have made one change that I hope is Useful. I follow the printout with the exception of the poster board template. For the poster board I am going to use foam board. My hope is to get a depth of material to sand therefore creating a smoother paintable surface. I haven’t seen where this has been done, and if it has, I include it here to show my work for the inexperienced builders like myself.

The foam board in place of the poster board has the paper removed from both sides and rolled out to crush it to a thinner more workable substution.

Then carve, tape and fit as well as possible (first attempt).

So far ….so good.

 

[Yankee2003]

This is my first Nickel on the subject (2¢ doesn't very far any more)
This video convinced me to get started as I reviewed the costs (at the time) and found them accurate but not the best start.

I submit Walmart has Big mats for less than the Art stores, and... you don't need a large one to start... or one at all (cardboard) Adtech Glue Gun has overheated my glue for years. Glue stick from Walmart are the best price for bulk (technically there are glue guns, and glue sticks (small and low temp) at the Dollar Tree. This would be for the "let me see if I want to spend *real* money on this" pricing. Landscaping wire for Pushrods (stolen are free but 100 are $10, Dental floss/picks for horns ($1). (or free un-loaded Gift cards. (or used ones. beware, there are paper ones now) Tape... Dollar tree has Short rolls of thin 3m packing tape... for a get-in project maybe. Needle nose Pliers, electronics screw and ball-hex set. (helpful)
Lastly, and this is the budget buster the TX Rx combo. (for entry seem to be Hands down the FlySky I6x $60 gets you in.
Batteries. $10 for the Tx, $20/25 for a 2200 3s.
So it mostly comes down to Motor ESC prop setup (orange 2212 1400kv with 8x6($) or Better yet APC9x4.5 ($$) are super inexpensive but limited (3S). To Begin and learn with, my opinion they are perfect. ...or step up to a bigger motor (less likely to overheat) for a *little* more
View attachment 228821 View attachment 228820

crud, sorry, did I jump the gun. It is something I always struggle with when enticing lookers to try it for themselves.

Lastly I have heard a number of Plans concerns. some plane plans (if chosen carefully) do not need printing. @jkennedy has a number of pictures on his, the one sheet no waste wing plans are measurement based. so, not needed on all models. Master build... yeah you need the plans printed, (or a kit leftover mask)

all this to say... I think you can do it.
Flightfest 2023. The clock is ticking…..

Correction "FliteFest" and you are right. it sounds slow now tick...tick...tick, but soon it will be, "tick tick tick." but you have the ARCN Support. Good topic, and I will encourage those listening, and reading this to add to this, where they can.[/QUOTE]

Revisiting this post I am interested in comparable substitutions for the ignorant (I am including myself). What are people using as a viable substitution for each power pack/ model series? Is there an advantage in price, shipping, quality? Is there a go to source..say Amazon or Buddy RC because they offer free shipping?
I know you and Joe went over motors, escs, etc… But maybe a quick survey amongst the Noobs will reveal a pattern that can be recommended for Flite Test aircraft. There are a lot of ideas but they can get lost in the fog of the discord/forum. Might it be worth a podcast subject? I know that I would benefit from a sourcing guideline. Breaking it down to “good enough”…”cheap but dependable”…”swappable and reusable for several builds”.
Having been in engineering like yourself, I do like building good reference material, even if it is stored in the grey matter database.
A suggestion…use it or not. Maybe I should take my own advice and do it for myself. It does sound like useable content though….
Thanks for interacting brother, I do appreciate you.

 

[FoamyDM]

Revisiting this post I am interested in comparable substitutions for the ignorant (I am including myself). What are people using as a viable substitution for each power pack/ model series? Is there an advantage in price, shipping, quality? Is there a go to source..say Amazon or Buddy RC because they offer free shipping?
I know you and Joe went over motors, escs, etc… But maybe a quick survey amongst the Noobs will reveal a pattern that can be recommended for Flite Test aircraft. There are a lot of ideas but they can get lost in the fog of the discord/forum. Might it be worth a podcast subject? I know that I would benefit from a sourcing guideline. Breaking it down to “good enough”…”cheap but dependable”…”swappable and reusable for several builds”.

The ARCN podcast Motors Episode 5 is a packed episode and while it has something Noobs and Experienced RCers alike to learn from, it is dense. and long. In the Crossover Episode with the RC Plan Lab Podcast, Ron and Tom were trying to understand teh Letter classification we used... while there is much nuance, the A/F-pack swing 5" props. B-packs wing 8" (8x6) and the C-packs swing a 10" prop. up to 4S. look for a motor than can do that and you should be OK. The motors chosen my FT were chosen because they were VERY efficient and the best $ to donuts for the weight and umph.

I have heard Sunnysky V3 are not ones you will be disappointed with . select for the prop. and hone by ESCs you have.
Orange Cans are VERY inexpensive, but the are restricted to 3S operation. as the windings will overheat and burn on a 4S, they are not designed to handle the Voltages at the currents used.

These are mostly quadcopter motors design for efficiency for the prop size. look there for alternates.

There is more, regarding torque and airflow needs for safe operation (ask me how I know.)
I am with you I would like to know what everyones Favorite substitute motor is for the different packs.

Having been in engineering like yourself, I do like building good reference material, even if it is stored in the grey matter database.
A suggestion…use it or not. Maybe I should take my own advice and do it for myself. It does sound like useable content though….
Thanks for interacting brother, I do appreciate you.

I love the way you are tackling this thread. it is a teach-n-learn Build Log. A try-as-we-go method, or an updated **unofficial** Spitfire build thread incorporating many of the Improvements presented across the build threads work trying.
I can say the canopy is great and is a PERFECT spot for AIO FPV system. So easy to build 2 Canopies, 1 traditional, 1 FPV.

 

[Yankee2003]

Last post of the day.
A quick sanding of the canopy and sealing with Modge Podge because my wife had some on hand. I think any sealer would do..maybe even wood glue, minwax or a spray craft varnish….


Seemed to work out okay. But again..use what you have to seal the foam.

oh…I forgot….if you are going to go light…..let’s start finding every opportunity to lighten up our add ons.


The Flite Test article canopy….👍.
I have purposely gone fast to see if it was a viable option. The next Spitfire will definitely have this. I only spent about an hour and a half…
at the same time cleaning my bathroom…dry time is down time…and to get this result….wow. A testament to the author of the article for sure.
I could easily spend more time with fitment…but all I need on this build is a pathway to success. Plenty of time for refinement.
Time to clean up the edges of the fuselage…seal what I can seal..and get ready for the tail assembly.
Let’s move on….

 

[Yankee2003]

The ARCN podcast Motors Episode 5 is a packed episode and while it has something Noobs and Experienced RCers alike to learn from, it is dense. and long. In the Crossover Episode with the RC Plan Lab Podcast, Ron and Tom were trying to understand teh Letter classification we used... while there is much nuance, the A/F-pack swing 5" props. B-packs wing 8" (8x6) and the C-packs swing a 10" prop. up to 4S. look for a motor than can do that and you should be OK. The motors chosen my FT were chosen because they were VERY efficient and the best $ to donuts for the weight and umph.

I have heard Sunnysky V3 are not ones you will be disappointed with . select for the prop. and hone by ESCs you have.
Orange Cans are VERY inexpensive, but the are restricted to 3S operation. as the windings will overheat and burn on a 4S, they are not designed to handle the Voltages at the currents used.

These are mostly quadcopter motors design for efficiency for the prop size. look there for alternates.

There is more, regarding torque and airflow needs for safe operation (ask me how I know.)
I am with you I would like to know what everyones Favorite substitute motor is for the different packs.


I love the way you are tackling this thread. it is a teach-n-learn Build Log. A try-as-we-go method, or an updated **unofficial** Spitfire build thread incorporating many of the Improvements presented across the build threads work trying.
I can say the canopy is great and is a PERFECT spot for AIO FPV system. So easy to build 2 Canopies, 1 traditional, 1 FPV.

Thanks brother…my hope is that anyone can start on this journey by following my mistakes and my successes. God willing it all ends with a really cool Master Series Spitfire that anyone can build by just following along. I know a hundred Spitfires have been built here, I‘m not stupid…so it will be overlooked by the most experienced….but I believe that it might be encouraging to see that it only takes a bit of time and a few easy builds to get the results of the forum veterans. Start today….start over….it’s okay.
It will be all the better if some of those veterans show…by pictures…by description….the methods they use to achieve the different stages of building and finishing these types of aircraft. I will also be showing some of the methods that forum users have so generously shared already that I am anxious to try.
Sure …I am naive and a little “Sunshine and Lollipops”…but I am also patient, tolerant and inclusive. If someone is on the fence…just start…or watch..or ask…but get started if this is something you want to do. I’ll be here…moving forward..with an easy entry to a awesome community.

 

[FoamyDM]

It will be all the better if some of those veterans show…by pictures…by description….the methods they use to achieve the different stages of building and finishing these types of aircraft. I will also be showing some of the methods that forum users have so generously shared already that I am anxious to try.

I try to write up detail build logs of all my projects. incase someone want to follow and stand on my shoulder so we can go higher together.

Good work @Yankee2003 I look forward to updates here.

 

[Yankee2003]

Okay…full disclosure….my ideas ….often times….not great. As it is said around here….”same ole used to be”.
I found out after building the power pod, battery hatch….that the ability to use the swappable part of a power pod doesn’t work very well with permanently attached wings, which I prefer. Forget easy battery access. So….two steps back. Start over and this time make the wings removable.
Glad I traced out those parts way back at the beginning.

Now that I have paid my stupid tax, I have caught back up.

 

[Yankee2003]

I have also attached the tail surfaces. Easy…no drama.
I embedded some yard flag wire to stiffen up the horizontal and vertical surfaces. An idea that was shared on The Aviation Noob podcast discord. Thank you my friends.

9DFFBA08-9C62-40D3-85DC-2D836CCA8343.jpeg 9AF4461B-AF81-4881-BC93-51A2FB31BFEB.jpeg 4F5F1084-61ED-48F9-B0A9-2A40255D321D.jpeg

Yard flags I bought at Lowes for $9. Looks like a years supply. I hope to use them as pushrods as well, but don’t know how that will work with the 9g servo arms. Insert your experience and constructive advice here.
I know….weight…weight…weight.
But this is about learning and improving. The benefit is hit and miss…I’m not above starting over again if I learn something valuable.
Perhaps this is a good time to put my order in for a new SBK…🤔.

 

[Yankee2003]

 

[Yankee2003]

One more thing…
I have decided to use packing tape to reinforce my hinges (I like to double bevel). This is in addition to the hot glue method used on the video.
I taped the wing leading edge prior to folding, the ailerons and the tail surfaces prior to installation. I then seat and sand them down with 220 sandpaper.

The result is more strength and a paintable surface. Sanding it really helps blend the tape in.



We’ll see at the painting stage.
On to the turtle deck…

 

[Yankee2003]

Turtle deck on. Tried a little filler and wood glue to soften the edge.
Not very happy with the result.



Glued on the canopy and gave it a overall quick shot of white primer.

Primer used.

 

[Yankee2003]

Going to finish installing the power pod and connecting the servos and paint.
The servos pushrods will be the yard flag wire. I am looking forward to see how that is going to work.
Then start the final paint.
Went out last night to fly/finish off my quick and dirty FT P-40. Darn if that thing didn’t fly about perfect. So it has four more flights on it.
I plan on using that to practice my hand launch technique until it is destroyed. I am starting to feel a connection to it.

 

[FoamyDM]

Glued on the canopy and gave it a overall quick shot of white primer.
View attachment 229590

Are you SURE you didn't just build a second one in White Foam?

 

[Yankee2003]

First off.
Yard flag wire for pushrods….so much better. Whoever first came up with this really came up with something great.


so much more rigid than standard FT pushrods. Plus they work nicely with the FT servo arms and control horns. You do need to make the holes slightly larger. I used pin vice but I have seen where others have taken a small piece of the wire and used it as a drill bit to make the holes the exact size required.
I know that the picture exposes my poor glueing and finishing skills. That will improve with time….I hope.

 

[Yankee2003]

The painting has begun. I promised I would be patient to allow paint to dry sufficiently to reduce tape pulling of the paint When masking off.
I am using house paint samples as planned. 3 for $12 at Lowes this month.



This is the photo I used to match colors. It is a lot harder than I imagined with the hundreds of shades available. But then again that is the beauty of using house paint in the first place.
The samples would be enough to paint several airframes so there is plenty to touch up if there is paint pull up.
The paint is very thick. I thinned it using Windex at about 50/50. I am using a dual action airbrush at 30 psi.


I should mention at this point that the paint is a satin finish. It sprays beautifully.
The rattle can white primer coat is really rough. Next time I will just spray a white base coat with the house paint.

 

[Yankee2003]

Fast forward a week to allow the colors to dry.
I am trying a masking technique that I learned from another person on the forum. He mentioned that he used blue painter’s tape on wax paper to create masking “ stickers”. Cut out the shape you want and peel off the blue tape from the wax paper and apply it to the airframe like a sticker. He said he did not have problems with any paint pulling up from them.



So far so good. The real test is painting and mask removal.
We’ll see how that goes.
Yes, that is a Bloody Baron in the picture. If I have to wait for paint to dry I can at lease build another plane.

 

[Mr NCT]

Fast forward a week to allow the colors to dry.
I am trying a masking technique that I learned from another person on the forum. He mentioned that he used blue painter’s tape on wax paper to create masking “ stickers”. Cut out the shape you want and peel off the blue tape from the wax paper and apply it to the airframe like a sticker. He said he did not have problems with any paint pulling up from them.
View attachment 230031
View attachment 230032
View attachment 230033
So far so good. The real test is painting and mask removal.
We’ll see how that goes.
Yes, that is a Bloody Baron in the picture. If I have to wait for paint to dry I can at lease build another plane.

Don't you absolutely love the unlimited color choices painting this way? I've had zero paint pull up using the samples over minwax coated foam board. Really interested to hear your experience using windex to thin with. Even using water I have drying times under 2 hours still be impervious to tape.