Painting tips??

[Hai-Lee]

Your question about the sanding on the exposed edges of the FB is answered in the affirmative!
I have a small block of XPS foam, (an offcut), that I have wrapped in a fine grained sandpaper which I use to sand all of the exposed edges of the foam board including hinge lines. I also use the same block to "Wipe" the knife blade to stop it grabbing and tearing the foam on big jobs. I used to spend a small fortune on new knives and blades and now I cannot remember the last time I bought replacement blades,

As for filling the edges I use the clear craft glue mentioned above but I wipe it on using my fingers, (did I mention that I am old school). on a few jobs where I want to resurrect the FB edge possible due to impact or hangar rash damage I cut 5mm strips of 1mm balsa and glue them to the resurrected edge, then sand and paint.

A while ago I used to cut an extra margin around the wing plan so that I was able to have a flap of paper to fold over the edges and glue to add a little extra strength and a smooth finish but just a wipe with glue did an equal job for me. It was also a little time consuming and messy!

Just what works for me!

Have fun!

 

[Jayrod0821@gmail]

I spray minwax with my hvlp gun then you can use any spray paint you want. I prefer rusolium x2.

 

[Grifflyer]

I spray minwax with my hvlp gun then you can use any spray paint you want. I prefer rusolium x2.

Spray on minwax never heard of that... isn't minwax kinda thick.

 

[Prowla]

Your question about the sanding on the exposed edges of the FB is answered in the affirmative!
I have a small block of XPS foam, (an offcut), that I have wrapped in a fine grained sandpaper which I use to sand all of the exposed edges of the foam board including hinge lines. I also use the same block to "Wipe" the knife blade to stop it grabbing and tearing the foam on big jobs. I used to spend a small fortune on new knives and blades and now I cannot remember the last time I bought replacement blades,

As for filling the edges I use the clear craft glue mentioned above but I wipe it on using my fingers, (did I mention that I am old school). on a few jobs where I want to resurrect the FB edge possible due to impact or hangar rash damage I cut 5mm strips of 1mm balsa and glue them to the resurrected edge, then sand and paint.

A while ago I used to cut an extra margin around the wing plan so that I was able to have a flap of paper to fold over the edges and glue to add a little extra strength and a smooth finish but just a wipe with glue did an equal job for me. It was also a little time consuming and messy!

Just what works for me!

Have fun!

awesome i'm deff going to have to try some of those ideas on my next one. i'm useing some black in my paint scheme so hoping to hide the worst of it

 

[Jayrod0821@gmail]

Spray on minwax never heard of that... isn't minwax kinda thick.

Not at all. Im a carpenter by trade and i use it when i spray cabinets. No thinning required. And adds very little weight. I do all my planes this way.

 

[skymaster]

you can try rubbing a beeswaxed candle on the edges to seal it. i have been experimenting with some stuff i coated my FT mighty miny arrow mega version 200% with a clear coating for belly landing . it came out kind of crappy, because i did not have enough time. this thing drys in like 9 minutes and it gets hard like a rock. and it did not eat the foam. the rip on pic one is where the crack on the foam was by the way i was repairing it, and came upon this chemical at work we were putting on some statues, so i decided to try it on my wing to repair. i was only supposed to put it on the crack. but i made a little to much and decide to do the under belly, i did not anticipate the drying time. that's why it came out so crappy. but is smooth and shiny .

 

[Forster]

whats good back again cub is primed and first coat is on. loving the colour. but i had another issue show up when i was painting that is with the sides of my foam core. (now givin my board may be cheaper quality or something i'm not to worryed) but some of the foam tore when i was cutting it out when my blade got a little dull these little pockets where crazy hard to fill with paint. do you guys sand or seal your edges with anything?? i thought about glue but it didn't look right and i don't think i want to start bondoing edges unless i start wire cutting and fiberglass molding.

Anytime I have that issue I stuff a little hot glue in the void and scrape it flush with a piece of scrap that matches the contour (i.e. I use an "L" shape to level out the glue on corners. I have been sealing the leading edges on my wings but I'm thinking about doing all the exposed edges.

 

[Jayrod0821@gmail]

Spray on minwax never heard of that... isn't minwax kinda thick.

For the edges i just use exterior wood glue.

 

[Grifflyer]

Not at all. Im a carpenter by trade and i use it when i spray cabinets. No thinning required. And adds very little weight. I do all my planes this way.

Oh cool, what do you use to spray it on? is it like an airbrush?

 

[Jayrod0821@gmail]

Oh cool, what do you use to spray it on? is it like an airbrush?

If you have a good one ya, but i use an hvlp (high volume low pressure) touch up gun. Like a gun you would use for painting a car. You can get one fairly cheap at harbor freight or hime depot.

 

[Jayrod0821@gmail]

Spray on minwax never heard of that... isn't minwax kinda thick.

What ever you do don't use minwax in a spray can. The propellant will eat the foam.

 

[mmitchellmoss]

Forgive my dumb question. I have been seeing lots of talk on here about using Minwax under your paint. Minwax has a lot of different products. Are we talking about a varnish/polyurethane type product? Thanks.

 

[Hai-Lee]

Yes it is the varnish. Oil based wipe on. Refrain from any aerosol varnishes unless you are certain that the propellant is foam safe!

Have fun!

 

[Forster]

Forgive my dumb question. I have been seeing lots of talk on here about using Minwax under your paint. Minwax has a lot of different products. Are we talking about a varnish/polyurethane type product? Thanks.

Oil based polyurethane. If you're using the water resistant foam, you'll still want to use it at the corners unless you seal with hot glue or tape. You'll also want to lightly sand the waterproof paper to give it some tooth.

 

[mmitchellmoss]

Awesome! That makes sense. Thanks for the quick response. I appreciate it.

 

[checkerboardflyer]

I made an easel from some PVC pipe. Works good for holding flat pieces like wings and control surfaces while painting. Used it to hold the wing on my FT Simple Scout while painting a scallop on the leading edge. I agree with previous posts about Rustoleum being a good choice. One more thing, the FT brown foam board is water resistant, but the poster board turtle decks are not as far as I know. So it makes sense to paint them as well either with color or clear coat. Use some double sided tape to hold them to the cardboard while painting. More tips at: https://foamboardflyers.com/