Safest Way to Bind Rx and general installation of RX.

[Mode 1]

Hi All.

Like many, im back in the hobby and am trying to get my head around this electric world. After fearing I may have baked a RX already during the binding process I thought i'd consult some help. We have built 2 Bloody Wonders (v3) running on the C power pack. My batteries are Venom 2200 3S and My ESC are BLHeli 30A. I've used both Orange and Spektrum rx's. To bind i've connected the battery to ESC and everything to my Rx. By this process am I potentially putting components at risk? Is there a simple, proper way (or special battery) to use for binding to prevent baking my electronics?

I also just took delivery of a new QX7 and X4R receivers and would provide them with a long, happy life

Also, as I've suffered 3 brownouts, I'm wondering what the best practices are for installing esc, rx etc..


Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, all.

Dave

 

[DamoRC]

After fearing I may have baked a RX already during the binding process I thought i'd consult some help.

Hey Dave, and welcome. The binding process you described should be fine. There is no need to have a special binding battery. It might be valuable for us to determine why you think you have baked an Rx during binding so more information on that specific problem would be helpful to determine if there is something systematically wrong with what you are doing.

The only time I have baked an Rx was when the Battery Elimination Circuit (BEC) on my ESC was faulty (or got shorted out) and instead of delivering the 5V expected by the Rx, it let loose the full 12 volts, which fried the Rx releasing the magic smoke.

Can you describe this issue in a little more detail?

DamoRC

 

[Mode 1]

Hey Dave, and welcome. The binding process you described should be fine. There is no need to have a special binding battery. It might be valuable for us to determine why you think you have baked an Rx during binding so more information on that specific problem would be helpful to determine if there is something systematically wrong with what you are doing.

The only time I have baked an Rx was when the Battery Elimination Circuit (BEC) on my ESC was faulty (or got shorted out) and instead of delivering the 5V expected by the Rx, it let loose the full 12 volts, which fried the Rx releasing the magic smoke.

Can you describe this issue in a little more details?

DamoRC

Damo,
Thanks for the reply. In that particular situation as I was attempting the bind process. Initially, I had a bind but I was getting a contast buzz / shaking in my control surfaces. I shut everything down and when I powered back up I added the battery and all servo throws maxed out and that was the last the RX did anything. I can't even get the light to come on. That particular RX was the Orange R610 V2.

My brown-outs were using the Spektrum AR610.

 

[Mode 1]

in addition. What are the rules for Antenna placement of the Rx? On these Frsky X4r's they have 2, equal length antennas. All the manual says (under range check) is the antennas should be separated and not touching the ground.

 

[pressalltheknobs]

The dual antennas on FrSky receivers should be mounted so that the exposed ends are at 90 degrees to each other. The exposed ends are the actual antenna. The rest of the wire is just the antenna lead and the orientation of that is not critical. Try not to kink it though. Smooth curves are best.

You should try to arrange them so that at least one antenna is "visible" to the TX at all times whatever the attitude of the aircraft. The idea of two is that they switch if one gets shadowed. The idea of 90 degrees is that one antenna will always align better with the TX. Actually visible is best but if you want to hide the antennas inside make sure they are not masked by something RF absorbing (eg motors, battery, metal of carbon fiber shells etc.)

You get the best signal if the RX antenna is parallel to the TX antenna. You get the worst signal if both the TX and RX are end on to each other. Therefore you should arrange your TX antenna so that that the side of it faces the receiver. Generally horizontally to the side is the best for Line of Site (LOS) fight line type flying where you tend to turn the TX to face the airplane. For FPV where you tend to fly at low altitude around your self a vertical TX antenna may work best. You can arrange the RX antennas on the type of model accordingly, maintaining the 90degrees between the two RX antennas.

 

[pressalltheknobs]

Using the BEC in the ESC is perfectly fine for binding the RX so long as the ESC/BEC is in good working order. Get a voltmeter to check stuff.

FrSky RXs can handle up to 10v. BECs in ESCs are usually 5v.

 

[Mode 1]

Using the BEC in the ESC is perfectly fine for binding the RX so long as the ESC/BEC is in good working order. Get a voltmeter to check stuff.

FrSky RXs can handle up to 10v. BECs in ESCs are usually 5v.

Press - thanks for the reply. After reconfiguring the electronics per the above advice we went flying yesterday and it was fabulous. Multiple flights with no issues at all. I used velcro to keep my esc and receiver in place as far away from one another as possible. Routed one RX antenna inside the power pod facing forward and the other antenna taped and going out the back of the power pod.


Dave

 

[pressalltheknobs]

hmm... one forward and one back sounds like 180 degrees. 90 degrees is at right angles making an L. It's probably not critical in open land for short range with a foam plane. One along the fuselage and one along a wing is one way. One either side whisker style but angled back so they make an L is another.

 

[Mode 1]

You are correct. I thought about poking a hole in the fuse and running it out the side towards the wing or can I simply arrange the end of the antenna at 90 degrees in that small space of the power pod?