Same here!
Scale Build-Off - Dare FW-190
- Thread starter willsonman
- Start date
Same here!
ScottyWarpNine
Mostly Harmless
Glad to see it got there in one piece!
Ok, so after attempting to do some sanding on the base, its just not going to work. I would have to hand-file/sand the thing to get it smooth enough to where I would use it. Using a dremel is a no-go as even at the slowest setting too much heat is generated and it starts to melt. Even if I were to coat it in epoxy it will still be a LOT of work.
Unfortunately this means that I do not think I will be able to use these parts.
Unfortunately this means that I do not think I will be able to use these parts.
A coat of Bondo (or other filler) wouldn't work to fill the voids and give you a better surface to sand?
The issue there is weight. Bondo is HEAVY stuff. Additional weight there will make the motor less efficient. Also, the practicality of sanding the fan blades... yeah, more work than I am willing.
Did you try acetone to smooth it? You could start just putting it in a container with some acetone at the bottom - even the fumes will help smooth 3D prints. Then if you need to really work some areas get some acetone on an applicator of some kind and really soften it up.
Just thinking that instead of trying to remove material maybe you can gently reform what's already there.
Just thinking that instead of trying to remove material maybe you can gently reform what's already there.
ScottyWarpNine
Mostly Harmless
I think your only option is to use Shapeways. It's not going to be cheap, but the SLS process is stronger and smoother than traditional FDM printing.
ScottyWarpNine
Mostly Harmless
Acetone smoothing only works with ABS. PLA, which is what I use, is not effected by acetone at all.
wilsonb
New member
You could try a person from 3dhubs.com. It may be cheaper than shapeways.
They have "Hubs" that are certified HD because they have industrial machines instead of the desktop units Scotty and I use. I did a quick quote with your file and came up with a price range of 75-200 bucks for the parts. Not sure if you are looking to spend that much!
They have "Hubs" that are certified HD because they have industrial machines instead of the desktop units Scotty and I use. I did a quick quote with your file and came up with a price range of 75-200 bucks for the parts. Not sure if you are looking to spend that much!
Well, the guy I know who printed the radiators for my SE5a does great work. I did not have to sand those at all and we are talking walls less than a mm thick. He has quoted me at $30 for the job so I think I'll go with him.
Unfortunately it is too thin and brittle for that.
During the holiday I was able to recruit my son to clean up the garage a bit. This left a very lonely workbench. What better way to make it feel better than to add some balsa dust?
I glued on the leading edge balsa for both wings. On the left wing I also cut out the aileron and added the balsa trim to the cavity and the aileron itself. I went further and added the pre-formed wing tip. The right wing still needs the aileron and wing tip but it went remarkably well on the left so I don't think it will be too much effort to get that done soon.
Since I will be doing retracts on this bird, I also glued up the retract mounting plates. I've not decided whether or not to do the split flaps but I am leaning towards doing them. Rather than use G10 or another material, I think I may just cut them out and apply epoxy to stiffen things up. I have some flat pin hinges that will work nicely for this. The servo channels need to be melted out of the foam cores using a metal rod that is heated up. I need to cut out the servo locations before I do this so I can do just one run of this technique.
I took time to also examine the fuselage parts. The top forward part of the fuselage is foam sheeted with balsa. Due to the age of the kit the balsa had become separated from the foam so I applied wood glue and placed the part back into its foam bed and applied pressure for the glue to cure. It should be solid now and worry-free down the road.
After working on this airplane a bit I do have concerns about weight and the amount of scale details I want to include. I think that I may include a retractable tail wheel if I can figure out a good way to use an e-tract I have in my parts bin. Lots of planning there to make it happen but something I need to think about.
I glued on the leading edge balsa for both wings. On the left wing I also cut out the aileron and added the balsa trim to the cavity and the aileron itself. I went further and added the pre-formed wing tip. The right wing still needs the aileron and wing tip but it went remarkably well on the left so I don't think it will be too much effort to get that done soon.
Since I will be doing retracts on this bird, I also glued up the retract mounting plates. I've not decided whether or not to do the split flaps but I am leaning towards doing them. Rather than use G10 or another material, I think I may just cut them out and apply epoxy to stiffen things up. I have some flat pin hinges that will work nicely for this. The servo channels need to be melted out of the foam cores using a metal rod that is heated up. I need to cut out the servo locations before I do this so I can do just one run of this technique.
I took time to also examine the fuselage parts. The top forward part of the fuselage is foam sheeted with balsa. Due to the age of the kit the balsa had become separated from the foam so I applied wood glue and placed the part back into its foam bed and applied pressure for the glue to cure. It should be solid now and worry-free down the road.
After working on this airplane a bit I do have concerns about weight and the amount of scale details I want to include. I think that I may include a retractable tail wheel if I can figure out a good way to use an e-tract I have in my parts bin. Lots of planning there to make it happen but something I need to think about.
Attachments
Got the aileron tips laminated (two layers) and the left aileron is all glued up. I cut out the right aileron as well. I faced the same issue with the balsa de-laminating from the foam core so I glued that up to set overnight. Its chilly out so dry times are much longer in the garage.
I looked up some scale drawings of the 190 to figure out the flap location. If I work it right, I think I can make all the linkages for the flaps an internal affair. I could use torque rods and have one central servo in the wing root or embed the servo in the wing with an access hatch. No decision yet but either way is the same amount of work.
I looked up some scale drawings of the 190 to figure out the flap location. If I work it right, I think I can make all the linkages for the flaps an internal affair. I could use torque rods and have one central servo in the wing root or embed the servo in the wing with an access hatch. No decision yet but either way is the same amount of work.
Got the right aileron trimmed out last night. I took the left wing and drew out the lines for the split flap. I cut the balsa piece away and removed the foam. I inserted some balsa at the root up against the foam core. After looking at many reference pictures on the interwebs, I've decided that it is an easy affair to make the linkage internal for the flaps. The scale reinforcements will be sufficient to strengthen the flap as well as the internal structure on the wing. It will be some work but will be worth it for scale landings.
I wanted to show the flap slot as it is fully framed out. So, see the pictures below. I checked on the glue this morning for the work on the right wing yesterday and the glue was mostly set.
Then I realized I had made a mistake. On the right wing, my measurement for cutting the aileron out was 1cm too long. A minor fix. I will correct this and make it right. A little balsa block on the wing and trim the aileron to fit. I can use a new piece of balsa for the flap itself as the piece that I will cut out will be too small.
MEASURE TWICE PEOPLE!!
Then I realized I had made a mistake. On the right wing, my measurement for cutting the aileron out was 1cm too long. A minor fix. I will correct this and make it right. A little balsa block on the wing and trim the aileron to fit. I can use a new piece of balsa for the flap itself as the piece that I will cut out will be too small.
MEASURE TWICE PEOPLE!!
Attachments
Right aileron has been re-cut and end capped to fix being too long. Big balsa block has been inserted and I will have to crave it out with the dremel when I cut the cavity for the flap.
In the meantime I cut the areas in the wings for the retract mounting plates. I will have to bore a hole for the air lines, no biggie as I need to do one for the aileron and flap servos. That will be next.
In the meantime I cut the areas in the wings for the retract mounting plates. I will have to bore a hole for the air lines, no biggie as I need to do one for the aileron and flap servos. That will be next.
Got the aileron and flap fixed and cut the second flap away. Second flap bay needs trim but glue is drying there so I should be able to get on that tomorrow. Both gear mounts are in and trim pieces installed. The flaps can be trimmed up/stiffened using bits of balsa scrap I have around. The flap bay in the wing will require a bit more work on the trim pieces as they are more scalloped but should be fairly easy to do.
I'm trying... while I may only have a few minutes here and there, having an idea of where to go next as you build helps make that little bit of time more effective.
