Scratch built P40 with Rasterize skins

[a_bibo]

Here is my scratch built Flite Test P40 with Rasterize skins. I added LED lights. Maiden didn’t go so well due to issues with Lemon stabilizer plus receiver. In fairness, the diversity antennas may have got wire or battery interference and may even have touch each other. The landing gear did cave in when trying to land. I have now beefed up the land gear with a bunch more hot glue. Per the receiver, I put the antennas in some stir sticks and ensured they are positioned opposite of each other. I hope to do maiden #2 soon.

I do need to give extra credit where due. Thanks to Flite Test for making the plans available for scratch building. I heard on FB today that Flite Test is teasing us with pre-skinned speed build kits in the future. Secondly, thanks to Rasterize for making such awesome skins. I have made a few of his skinned planes. I would shake his hand if I could. Job well done.

 

[AussieBison]

looks great! What was the process like of applying the skin? Did you have to use special kind of paper? And peel off paper from Foam board?

 

[a_bibo]

looks great! What was the process like of applying the skin? Did you have to use special kind of paper? And peel off paper from Foam board?

The process is fairly simple. I print the skins using “poster” tile setting in the PDF print settings. I print on 120g HP Presentation Glossy paper. I than take the printed paper parts and use Elmers spray adhesive to glue onto Adams Readyboard with paper peeled on both sides. I than cut out the part. Last step is to glue on the Flite Test plans on the other side of the skinned foam piece so I know how to fold and built per the Flite Test build video.

At the very end of the build I do spray a few coats of semi gloss polyurethane to help with moisture resistance plus it makes the printed skins look way vibrant.

 

[Ratcheeroo]

Here is my scratch built Flite Test P40 with Rasterize skins. I added LED lights. Maiden didn’t go so well due to issues with Lemon stabilizer plus receiver. In fairness, the diversity antennas may have got wire or battery interference and may even have touch each other. The landing gear did cave in when trying to land. I have now beefed up the land gear with a bunch more hot glue. Per the receiver, I put the antennas in some stir sticks and ensured they are positioned opposite of each other. I hope to do maiden #2 soon.

I do need to give extra credit where due. Thanks to Flite Test for making the plans available for scratch building. I heard on FB today that Flite Test is teasing us with pre-skinned speed build kits in the future. Secondly, thanks to Rasterize for making such awesome skins. I have made a few of his skinned planes. I would shake his hand if I could. Job well done.

Nice job! I put navigation lights on mine too

 

[AussieBison]

The process is fairly simple. I print the skins using “poster” tile setting in the PDF print settings. I print on 120g HP Presentation Glossy paper. I than take the printed paper parts and use Elmers spray adhesive to glue onto Adams Readyboard with paper peeled on both sides. I than cut out the part. Last step is to glue on the Flite Test plans on the other side of the skinned foam piece so I know how to fold and built per the Flite Test build video.

At the very end of the build I do spray a few coats of semi gloss polyurethane to help with moisture resistance plus it makes the printed skins look way vibrant.

awesome! Thanks. Looks really cool, do post flight pictures / videos

 

[Rasterize]

Wow! Outstanding build! The semi-gloss polyurethane really makes it pop! I'm curious about your flight performance with the 120gsm coated paper and would love to hear a flight report when you get around to it. Usually, I use a 75 or 90 gsm uncoated for weight savings. I then use a satin polycrylic spray but I'm really digging your semi-gloss choice. Again, marvelous job, and thanks for the kind words. Clear skies!

 

[Rasterize]

[QUOTE="... I heard on FB today that Flite Test is teasing us with pre-skinned speed build kits in the future. " [/QUOTE]
Oh, it's no tease.

 

[AussieBison]

[QUOTE="... I heard on FB today that Flite Test is teasing us with pre-skinned speed build kits in the future. "

Oh, it's no tease. [/QUOTE]
we have an insider

 

[Taildragger]

[QUOTE="... I heard on FB today that Flite Test is teasing us with pre-skinned speed build kits in the future. "

Oh, it's no tease. [/QUOTE]
you might want to fix that quote bracket

 

[dr-squared]

First post here. I just had to comment that these plans and skins worked great on this, my first ever FT style plane. Maiden soon, came in AUW of 8.8 oz. Thanks for a great resource and all your work, It was printed on an Office Depot arch 26x30 26 lb paper sheet for $5.84. Will spraying acrylic clear add much weight?

 

[Ratcheeroo]

First post here. I just had to comment that these plans and skins worked great on this, my first ever FT style plane. Maiden soon, came in AUW of 8.8 oz. Thanks for a great resource and all your work, It was printed on an Office Depot arch 26x30 26 lb paper sheet for $5.84. Will spraying acrylic clear add much weight?

Great job! you'll be good to give it a spray

 

[Rasterize]

First post here. I just had to comment that these plans and skins worked great on this, my first ever FT style plane. Maiden soon, came in AUW of 8.8 oz. Thanks for a great resource and all your work, It was printed on an Office Depot arch 26x30 26 lb paper sheet for $5.84. Will spraying acrylic clear add much weight?

Great job on the build! I print on 20lbs Bond (75 gsm). It is uncoated so I always hit it with some minwax polycrylic spray after assembly. Tips on skiing planes: After gluing the skin to the foam, I always roll the flat skinned piece with a rubber roller to make sure the paper makes firm contact with the foam. I then wait for 24 hrs to make sure the glue is dry (3M 77 spray) before building. Yeah, waiting sucks but you want it stuck and stuck good! You could start building sooner, but always give the glue time to dry before spraying with polycrylic as it can weaken the glue if it soaks through the paper (remember, uncoated in my case) and the glue is not dry. Should not add much weight if you only do a couple of light coats to make the surface more water-resistant. Good luck!

 

[Matthewdupreez]

has anyone tried using wood glue/ gorrila glue to adhere the plans to the foam??
also... any problems with tiled skins, and the paper "stretching" and at the tape it is wrinkly...

 

[dr-squared]

Thanks Ras and Rat. I'll be incorporating that advice on my next build...with your skins naturally. I did not wait 24 hours after gluing the skins (with Elmers spray glue...it was on hand, don't laugh) and i had a few corner lift ups but Beacon foamboard adhesive saved me. My build isn't to the same level as the OP's, but damn, it was fun doing the build knowing the materials were essentially disposable if I screwed up...I did!.

To answer Matthew, I tried all manner of stitching up the tiles. I've given up taping (although it works fine) and I now prefer to glue and line up the tiles one at a time on the back side of the foam with the precut skins...like doing wallpaper. ..easier for me. As far as adhesives, I reckon anything that sticks it to the foam is good. I find spraying a product faster and more even, again. for me. II it was all I had, I'd make it work, it did on balsa builds if thinned. I honestly don't think there's necessarily a best way, just dive in and keep cutting and gluing and, voila, an airplane appears...lol!

Cheers to all foamboard fabricators, I am a convert, no more $50 kits or $120 arfs for me,

Dan

 

[Matthewdupreez]

To answer Matthew, I tried all manner of stitching up the tiles. I've given up taping (although it works fine) and I now prefer to glue and line up the tiles one at a time on the back side of the foam with the precut skins...like doing wallpaper. ..easier for me. As far as adhesives, I reckon anything that sticks it to the foam is good. I find spraying a product faster and more even, again. for me. II it was all I had, I'd make it work, it did on balsa builds if thinned. I honestly don't think there's necessarily a best way, just dive in and keep cutting and gluing and, voila, an airplane appears...lol!

Dan

thanks... i was thinking of doing the same thing

 

[a_bibo]

First post here. I just had to comment that these plans and skins worked great on this, my first ever FT style plane. Maiden soon, came in AUW of 8.8 oz. Thanks for a great resource and all your work, It was printed on an Office Depot arch 26x30 26 lb paper sheet for $5.84. Will spraying acrylic clear add much weight?

Hello there. So I have been flying my P40 for the summer now. I used also used 26 lb paper and also sprayed 2 coats of semi gloss polyurethane. If flies great. However, landings are a bit hot because of the weight. I recommend some spray sealer because the paper on the foam will peel off even from humidity never mind damp grass.

On another note, my landing gear has had to be fixed many times. I built exactly per the FT instructions. They are just not beefy enough. I have probably added way more hot glue on the fixed landing gear than the weight of the heavy paper and polyurethane combined. Fortunately it still flies just fine.