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Pumpkin drop event

Seahunter's FT Bushwacker

Seahunter

Active member
#1
This is my FT Bushwacker. It's pictures are in my hanger in the media section. I tried to post pictures of it in an old thread, but just noticed that it's not there, so here it is again. I bought a FT kit of the Bushwacker right after Peter designed it. It sat under my workbench for a long time before I started the build. Since it was made of the old white DTFB and I was having problems with the paper falling off of the white board from the morning dew, I traced the parts onto the new water resistant board which I had just bought a box of 50 sheets from FT, cut them out and gave the white ones to my neighbor and flying, building partner. I also downloaded a set of plans for backup. Since I did not like the foam wheels that came with the kit, I bought a set of Timber wheels for it. They were not cheap, around 18.00 for the timber wheels. No problem on the CG. I also modified the tail and put the timber steerable tailwheel on as our club has a paved runway, I am happy with the timber wheels, I would not change my choice. They work great on grass, dirt whatever. I also bought the timber replacement landing gear, it's still in the box, too heavy for the Bushwacker. I used the tailwheel wire from the set, but a cheaper tailwheel is available with spring coiled pre-bent tailwheel from http://www.airborne-models.com. I put a 3 axis gyro in it for windy days, also programed in flaperons. It has a "C" pack in it. I plan to add removable slats later to see how slow can I get it to go. The timber wheels measure about 4 1/4".
I painted it with Krylon white spray cans after sanding it thoroughly and cleaning with rubbing alcohol, The checkerboard and black stripes are cut from top flite or monocote vinyl trim sheets, I cut the stripes on my monocote smart stripe machine, a picture of it's in my Guillows Cherokee thread build in balsa builders and breakers. The purple stripe on the front is colored packing tape. The decals were made and sized on my printer and applied with Mod-podge. The AMA decal on the wing was sent buy AMA. the bushwacker logo on the side was made in windows notepad using Script MT, bold oblique font and printing it out. Then cut around lettering and coat it with mod-podge and let dry, careful with that step as mod podge will smear the printer ink. Let dry, then put on with mod podge. You can apply FT logos the same way. Sticks well on paint, sometimes will slip on tape and vinyl. I noticed that James Whomsley also uses this method for decals as he covered it in a recent video. I like passing on methods and talking builds etc. please contact me anytime. Also check out http://www.airfieldmodels.com, Paul k Johnson owns the site. Membership is free and he has loads of information, tips etc. great site!
















P4150212.JPG P4150210.JPG P4150207.JPG P4150208.JPG P4150206.JPG
 
#2
This is my FT Bushwacker. It's pictures are in my hanger in the media section. I tried to post pictures of it in an old thread, but just noticed that it's not there, so here it is again. I bought a FT kit of the Bushwacker right after Peter designed it. It sat under my workbench for a long time before I started the build. Since it was made of the old white DTFB and I was having problems with the paper falling off of the white board from the morning dew, I traced the parts onto the new water resistant board which I had just bought a box of 50 sheets from FT, cut them out and gave the white ones to my neighbor and flying, building partner. I also downloaded a set of plans for backup. Since I did not like the foam wheels that came with the kit, I bought a set of Timber wheels for it. They were not cheap, around 18.00 for the timber wheels. No problem on the CG. I also modified the tail and put the timber steerable tailwheel on as our club has a paved runway, I am happy with the timber wheels, I would not change my choice. They work great on grass, dirt whatever. I also bought the timber replacement landing gear, it's still in the box, too heavy for the Bushwacker. I used the tailwheel wire from the set, but a cheaper tailwheel is available with spring coiled pre-bent tailwheel from http://www.airborne-models.com. I put a 3 axis gyro in it for windy days, also programed in flaperons. It has a "C" pack in it. I plan to add removable slats later to see how slow can I get it to go. The timber wheels measure about 4 1/4".
I painted it with Krylon white spray cans after sanding it thoroughly and cleaning with rubbing alcohol, The checkerboard and black stripes are cut from top flite or monocote vinyl trim sheets, I cut the stripes on my monocote smart stripe machine, a picture of it's in my Guillows Cherokee thread build in balsa builders and breakers. The purple stripe on the front is colored packing tape. The decals were made and sized on my printer and applied with Mod-podge. The AMA decal on the wing was sent buy AMA. the bushwacker logo on the side was made in windows notepad using Script MT, bold oblique font and printing it out. Then cut around lettering and coat it with mod-podge and let dry, careful with that step as mod podge will smear the printer ink. Let dry, then put on with mod podge. You can apply FT logos the same way. Sticks well on paint, sometimes will slip on tape and vinyl. I noticed that James Whomsley also uses this method for decals as he covered it in a recent video. I like passing on methods and talking builds etc. please contact me anytime. Also check out http://www.airfieldmodels.com, Paul k Johnson owns the site. Membership is free and he has loads of information, tips etc. great site!
















View attachment 122052 View attachment 122053 View attachment 122055 View attachment 122056 View attachment 122057
Do you think this motor would work well with it?
https://www.banggood.com/Racerstar-...RCgB&ID=521310&cur_warehouse=CN#jsReviewsWrap
 

Seahunter

Active member
#3
I am not familiar with that particular motor, it's listed as a 2216 motor and since I am using an e-max 2215/09 with a 30A ESC and a 10 x 4.5 prop with a 3S battery @ 11.1V getting good performance, I think it probably would work. The majority of my FT planes are powered with FT store motors and I have never had any problems with them. You might direct that question to Hai-Lee as he is great with matching up airframes with the proper power combos.
Fred
 

Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
#4
#6
@Seahunter Thanks for the vote of confidence!
As for the motor selected it cannot swing the big prop, it is Ok for props up to 9 x 4.5 on 3S and 8 x 6 on 4S. It has sufficient power capacity otherwise so if you can handle using the smaller prop I would say go for it!

See chart below:

View attachment 125170

Have fun!
What about the motor makes it not good for having a large prop and what are the benefits of having a large prop? Should I go with a smaller motor?
 

Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
#7
What about the motor makes it not good for having a large prop and what are the benefits of having a large prop? Should I go with a smaller motor?
A larger prop can push a lot of air and is normally much greater in diameter than the planes fuselage.

You can use a smaller prop but if too small the fuselage will interfere with the propeller driven air and can reduce effect thrust and hence the ability to fly or at least fly relatively fast.

A large prop can push a huge amount of air at low Kv and If the large Dia prop is a paddle blade SF prop It can produce a huge amount of thrust at zero airspeed, (Take off, 3D, and extreme STOL),

Ultimately the prop choice is definitely yours! Just do not over prop the motor or you could need to replace the motor or ESC in a rather short time due to over-current damage!

Have fun!
 
#8
I am not familiar with that particular motor, it's listed as a 2216 motor and since I am using an e-max 2215/09 with a 30A ESC and a 10 x 4.5 prop with a 3S battery @ 11.1V getting good performance, I think it probably would work. The majority of my FT planes are powered with FT store motors and I have never had any problems with them. You might direct that question to Hai-Lee as he is great with matching up airframes with the proper power combos.
Fred
Does it 3D well with the 3s?
 

Seahunter

Active member
#9
I'm not an accomplished 3-D flyer, more like a bold intermediate flyer, I get some high alpha`s and some lazy tail stands, but lacks the power to do a fast vertical, I've never put a 4S in it. I normally fly scale patterns, being very conservative with my airplanes as I tend to put way too much work in them and a wipe out would be hard to take. I'm now 82 yrs old and enjoy just flying around our CCW pattern and doing touch and go's on our paved runway. Fred
 
#10
Approximately how long was the longest piece of push rod you used in this build? I'm just trying to plan how long I need to buy them. Also what do you use for push rods and what diameter?
Thanks
 

Seahunter

Active member
#11
Approximately how long was the longest piece of push rod you used in this build? I'm just trying to plan how long I need to buy them. Also what do you use for push rods and what diameter?
Thanks
Sorry to be so long answering you on this one, but my wife was involved in a serious vehicle accident and I have been with her at the hospital. We are home now and she is ok. I can't remember the details on the push rods, but I will get the plane down from its hanger on the wall tomorrow and get that info for you. Fred
 
#12
Sorry to be so long answering you on this one, but my wife was involved in a serious vehicle accident and I have been with her at the hospital. We are home now and she is ok. I can't remember the details on the push rods, but I will get the plane down from its hanger on the wall tomorrow and get that info for you. Fred
Oh I am very sorry for your wife, I hope she gets well soon. And really don't mind or trouble yourself with this, I'll try to figure it out myself.
 

Seahunter

Active member
#13
Approximately how long was the longest piece of push rod you used in this build? I'm just trying to plan how long I need to buy them. Also what do you use for push rods and what diameter?
Thanks
I usually buy the 8 pack of 23" push rods for 8.99and the 8 pack of 16.5" push rods for 6.99 from the FT store so I have plenty on hand for scratch builds. The 23 " will fit both standard and mini frames, just cut to length and save short pieces for ailerons, flaps etc.. On a long rod in a large airframe like the bushwacker, check for the rod bending on full travel both directions, if its bending, put a guide on the rod where its bending. Hot glue a coffee stirrer onto a scrap of foam to make your guide.
 

rockyboy

Skill Collector
Mentor
#14
Best wishes for a full and speedy recovery to your family Fred. I know traumatic events have a big impact on the entire family, and hope you're all able to pull through this soon.
 

Keno

Active member
#15
Sorry to be so long answering you on this one, but my wife was involved in a serious vehicle accident and I have been with her at the hospital. We are home now and she is ok. I can't remember the details on the push rods, but I will get the plane down from its hanger on the wall tomorrow and get that info for you. Fred
Fred, Our Family sends you and yours best wishes and prayers for complete and fast recovery, Ken
 

Seahunter

Active member
#17
Approximately how long was the longest piece of push rod you used in this build? I'm just trying to plan how long I need to buy them. Also what do you use for push rods and what diameter?
Thanks
I forgot to mention the flexible push rod trick using a zip tie as shown in some of the FT build videos, simply put the zip tie around the push rod where you are seeing the bending, a common thing with the lighter thinner wire, cinch the zip tie leaving it loose enough to move freely, push it through the foam at that point , cut it off on the backside and a dab of hot glue on the back will hold it. Zoom in on the rudder and horizontal stabilizer in the above pictures of my bushwacker and you will see I reinforced them using a zip tie. You can use the lighter wire diameters and save weight this way. Better method than the coffee stirrers as you can put them on after the hook up is made. Fred
 
#18
I forgot to mention the flexible push rod trick using a zip tie as shown in some of the FT build videos, simply put the zip tie around the push rod where you are seeing the bending, a common thing with the lighter thinner wire, cinch the zip tie leaving it loose enough to move freely, push it through the foam at that point , cut it off on the backside and a dab of hot glue on the back will hold it. Zoom in on the rudder and horizontal stabilizer in the above pictures of my bushwacker and you will see I reinforced them using a zip tie. You can use the lighter wire diameters and save weight this way. Better method than the coffee stirrers as you can put them on after the hook up is made. Fred
Thank you Fred for the advice and again best wishes for a fast and complete recovery for the family.