Slic3r 3Dlabpring P-47

I have been printing a 3Dlabprint Slic3r P-47. I have run into a rather vexing issue. I got a lot of print issues worked out with the fuselage pieces. The quality of the parts looks pretty good. Now, the problem is getting the wings to stay on the bed. The rear portion of the airfoil keeps pulling up. Only a portion of the section is losing adhesion. the main portion of the airfoil is staying tight to the bed, but the rear 1/4 to 1/3 is pulling off the bed, up to several millimeters at the rear of the airfoil. I believe it's a contraction issue, that seems obvious, but I am not sure how to control it. The problem it creates is that the glue surface is compromised, since there's a large gap at the rear of the section. My printer is a Makerfarm Pegasus 10. I have the filament at 200 C, and the bed at 70 C, as recommended by 3Dlabprint. I am going to try a print with a brim to see if the additional surface area will help it stay adhered, but based on what I am seeing, I am not confident this will solve it. I am wondering if anyone else has printed one of these planes and what settings they used to keep the wing sections tight to the bed.

EDIT: I am using eSun 1.75mm filament.

Edit2: just noticed I misspelled 3Dlabprint.... :eek:. And of course, it's the title and I can't edit it....

I did try a brim, 2 layers thick, the trailing edge still pulled up..... I am going to try a higher bed temperature next. If that fails, not sure where to go next. I will also map out my bed and see if it has temperature variations. If I see large temperature variations, I will look at reorienting the part so it's on more consistent temperature across the base of the part. I am wasting a lot of filament trying to solve this problem!
 
Last edited:
Pictures of what is happening. The gap is a result of the trailing edge pulling off the bed as it prints. The top surface is actually quite flat. The contraction is taken up in the part, leaving the top flat. I have gone through a lot of filament trying to fix this. Anything at this point will now just be guess and check, to see if I can make it go away.....

Top view
image.jpeg

Bottom view
image.jpeg
 

earthsciteach

Moderator
Moderator
I may be off base here, but I wonder how screen printing spray adhesive would work. That stuff has some serious stick!
 
I'll have to try the aqua net. I have some Suave that is a LOT more sticky than the Garnier recommended by Makerfarm. Don't know anything about screen printing adhesive, I'll have to look on Amazon.

I am wondering if higher bed temp will help... I've gone through almost an entire roll of filamant trying to get wing parts to print correctly. There's definitely a learning curve with 3D printing! I'll definitely go get some Aquanet.
 

rockyboy

Skill Collector
Mentor
The special thing about Aquanet isn't so much the 'sticky' level in general, but how the PVA compounds in it react so well with the PLA at temperatures up over 50c. I also tried the Garnier initially, and found it wasn't much better than blue painters tape. The Aquanet has made bed adhesion something I just don't even worry about anymore. It maintains a very tight bond when the bed heater is still on, but the bond becomes more brittle when cooled back to room temperature, such that often the very slight contraction of the PLA when cooled will be enough to break the piece free on it's own. I had a corner brace I printed last night pop free with a little 'snap' sound all by itself.
 

rockyboy

Skill Collector
Mentor
I may be off base here, but I wonder how screen printing spray adhesive would work. That stuff has some serious stick!

If it's a vinyl based product, it might work well - I've seen that to really be the key in the various hair sprays I've tried.
 

LitterBug

Techno Nut
Moderator
One other thing that I've found with the S3D_Factory files, is the wing parts are printed 2 perimiter shells for the first 2mm, then 1 for the remaining. The printing tutorial videos mention this as well.

Cheers!
LitterBug
 
Vinyl based! Why am I glad I don't use that stuff!? I know Aquanet is wicked good in a spud gun! The Suave was much more sticky than the Garnier, so if the Aquanet is even more sticky than the Suave, that might do it. I think I am also going to pump up the bed temp to 80, and leave it there. I had been printing the first layer hotter, and then dropping the temp, but maybe that was contributing to the issue...

Just checked the Suave, it's also vinyl based. I am going to up bed temperature.

EDIT: Just saw your posts. Tell me why to drop the temp? The first several layers were double. Until I upped the multiplier on the extruder, those layers were actually seperating when the parts would pull up.
 
Last edited:
I have a wing section printing right now! Bed at 50 C. I hedged my bets and put a big skirt on it just in case. Hopefully it will stay stuck this time.
 
Well, that didn't work.... Less than 1/3 through, and the trailing edge pulled up far more than any of the others by that point. Pictures attached.

Bottom
image.jpeg

Top
image.jpeg

Going to try hotter....
 
Good tip! Don't know why I hadn't found that thread before.... I actually searched, but sometimes RCG's search engine seems to miss things. Looks like several people have had similar issues. I am going to try a tweak on my z height to see if I flatten the first layer better.