I finished taping the plans and now I’m ready to start cutting one wing!
Slow And Steady Wins The Racer!!
- Thread starter BATTLEAXE
- Start date
CarolineTyler
Legendary member
Built one a while ago using Westboard foamboard so it heavier but it flies like it's on rails.
Didn't want to do the Planes© version so added pop bottle 'glass' and a too small 3D printed pilot.
Didn't want to do the Planes© version so added pop bottle 'glass' and a too small 3D printed pilot.
Last edited:
BATTLEAXE
Legendary member
Are you gonna have dihedral
BATTLEAXE
Legendary member
That looks awesome! You do some really clean builds. The purple really sets it off too. And no dings either, do you ever crash planes
Hmm, good question. I was gonna do stock, but how do you think it would do without dihedral? Are you going to skip it too?
CarolineTyler
Legendary member
Haven't crashed this one yet!!! I've since added some iron-on laminate film to the nose so when I land in the muddy winter field the muck just wipes offThat looks awesome! You do some really clean builds. The purple really sets it off too. And no dings either, do you ever crash planes
mayan
Legendary member
Sweet idea!Haven't crashed this one yet!!! I've since added some iron-on laminate film to the nose so when I land in the muddy winter field the muck just wipes off
BATTLEAXE
Legendary member
I know @Sero said he doesn't do any on his, and he has made a couple of them, he actually suggested not to do it. I think the dihedral looks cool like a warbird, but having a swept wing kinda acts like dihedral. If I do it might be half of what's stock at max. I would like to beef up the spar and this is done easiest without it. If you were gonna use 4s on it, I would suggest to beef it up in the spar and no dihedral. Actually the under camber in the tips will create the most lift so there is even more reason it's not needed
Ok, sounds good. I’ll eliminate the dihedral and do a big beefy spar!
BATTLEAXE
Legendary member
Smart lady. I might do removable landing gear like I use on the FT-3D. but I will be covering the bottom and the underside of the nose in packing tape after the paintHaven't crashed this one yet!!! I've since added some iron-on laminate film to the nose so when I land in the muddy winter field the muck just wipes off
Got both wings cut out! I’m gonna get the fuse done and then call it a night. I’ll be cutting the tail feathers out of hobby lobby foam board for extra strength!
Ok, done for tonight. I didn’t get the fuse cut out but it’s taped and ready for tomorrow.
I haven't built a FB plane for years, but I've always wanted a Racer.. Count me in
Grifflyer
WWII fanatic
Alright I'm just going to leave this here. I was going to build one but haven't gotten to it yet. https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?threads/ft-thresher.53660/
Sero
Elite member
Looking good guys!
I can't handle dihedral in high wing planes, it just feels weird to me. On low wing planes its fine. I believe that's to do with the fact that I didn't learn to fly RC on a trainer plane (first plane was the Bloody baron, then the Sportster) and went straight to 4 channel. I also can't stand 3 channel, I can do it it just feels weird and like I don't have full control. I did a lot of stick time in the simulator before any real flying.
So my point here is I'm a bit odd with dihedral, and I don't want you to have a bad experience because of what I did. That being said I bet you guys would be fine.
I eliminated it in my last build because I felt it would suit me fine and I wanted to be sure to eliminate dutch roll that I have experienced with this plane, but adding directional stability (ventral fin and dorsal extension) would probably be all I needed.I have noticed the plane doesn't track as straight with roll so constant adjustment are needed when flying straight.
It is easy to add some dihedral with an aluminum spar if you use Nerdnics technique. If you do keep the dihedral I probably would reduce it.
I can't handle dihedral in high wing planes, it just feels weird to me. On low wing planes its fine. I believe that's to do with the fact that I didn't learn to fly RC on a trainer plane (first plane was the Bloody baron, then the Sportster) and went straight to 4 channel. I also can't stand 3 channel, I can do it it just feels weird and like I don't have full control. I did a lot of stick time in the simulator before any real flying.
So my point here is I'm a bit odd with dihedral, and I don't want you to have a bad experience because of what I did. That being said I bet you guys would be fine.
I eliminated it in my last build because I felt it would suit me fine and I wanted to be sure to eliminate dutch roll that I have experienced with this plane, but adding directional stability (ventral fin and dorsal extension) would probably be all I needed.I have noticed the plane doesn't track as straight with roll so constant adjustment are needed when flying straight.
It is easy to add some dihedral with an aluminum spar if you use Nerdnics technique. If you do keep the dihedral I probably would reduce it.
@BATTLEAXE if you don’t win that 4s lipo, you should really buy one for the racer - I got one off amazon for under $20. I think you’ll be amazed by the difference - you thought your ft-22’s were fast...
BATTLEAXE
Legendary member
Have you flown anything with it yet, the Mustang maybe?@BATTLEAXE if you don’t win that 4s lipo, you should really buy one for the racer - I got one off amazon for under $20. I think you’ll be amazed by the difference - you thought your ft-22’s were fast...
Grifflyer
WWII fanatic
I think he's talking about the 4s he used in the Goblin.
I’ve used it in the bushwacker, Spitfire, and ft-3D. The spitfire was really where it shone - doing the low high speed passes (inverted too!). The battery is good, especially considering the price. There is one cell that is often slightly less charged (0.05 V) than the others, but when charging it’ll go back up to the 4.20 volts like the rest of the cells. That might have been a result of a pretty nasty crash I had with it though...
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