Some Tail Section Questions

[Dazzy]

Seeking some clarification.

Instructions say sand and cut V2 and V3 until the front edge has an inverted "V" shape as shown.
Referring to the left part of the image:

Should I sand V3 green section to a V shape?
What if anything should I do with the trailing section in blue?

Should I sand V2 green section to a V shape?
What if anything should I do with the trailing section in purple?

Theres more...

Instructions say According to 1:1 map, make tail and horizontal and sand them until smooth. Trim the edge to a rounded shape and sand.
Referring to the right part of the image:

What edges by color if any should I trim and then sand?

Thanks Darryl

 

[Turbojoe]

V2 should have the GREEN LINE "inverted V" or two 45 degree angles meeting in the middle to create a bevel. Sand the rest of the edges to a rounded aerodynamic shape. H2 should have the PINK LINE "inverted V" as well. Sand the rest to a rounded shape too. I've included a .pdf page from the C.G. Eaglet 50 build manual that shows how the hinge line bevel should look. If you make a center line mark as shown you can sand the bevel with a sanding block. You don't have to have the tool they show (though it works great!). I'm in a massive hurry to get out the door or I'd try to find something better for you. I'm sure someone else will pop in soon with even more clarification for you.

Joe

 

[Merv]

I agree with @Turbojoe, the inverted V is referring to a bevel.

Here is the idea:
Round the LE of the vertical & horizontal stabilizers. The parts that don’t move.
Taper the TE of the rudder & elevator. The parts that move.
Bevel the hinge line on the rudder & elevator.

The points of the bevels & tapers should be in the middle. You don’t want them to be lopsided. Draw a pencil line down the middle, then cut/sand to the line. The bevel should be 45 degrees per half. Tapers can be as sharp as you like, something between 3/4 to 1 inch is a good start.

 

[Dazzy]

V2 should have the GREEN LINE "inverted V" or two 45 degree angles meeting in the middle to create a bevel. Sand the rest of the edges to a rounded aerodynamic shape. H2 should have the PINK LINE "inverted V" as well. Sand the rest to a rounded shape too. I've included a .pdf page from the C.G. Eaglet 50 build manual that shows how the hinge line bevel should look. If you make a center line mark as shown you can sand the bevel with a sanding block. You don't have to have the tool they show (though it works great!). I'm in a massive hurry to get out the door or I'd try to find something better for you. I'm sure someone else will pop in soon with even more clarification for you.

Joe

Thanks Joe for those tips and the pdf file, the instruction manual that Im using is sometimes okay and at other times mostly useless due to the low quality black and white photographs.

I agree with @Turbojoe, the inverted V is referring to a bevel.

Here is the idea:
Round the LE of the vertical & horizontal stabilizers. The parts that don’t move.
Taper the TE of the rudder & elevator. The parts that move.
Bevel the hinge line on the rudder & elevator.

The points of the bevels & tapers should be in the middle. You don’t want them to be lopsided. Draw a pencil line down the middle, then cut/sand to the line. The bevel should be 45 degrees per half. Tapers can be as sharp as you like, something between 3/4 to 1 inch is a good start.

Thanks Merve for your tech ideas here too.

 

[Dazzy]

The instructions say:

Referring to top image here.
According to 1:1 map, use a hobby knife to cut hinge holes

The holes appear to be there, am I missing anything here?

The top image also shows the hinges in place, but this step has been left out.

What can I use as a substitute for the missing hinges?
How can I fix them to the fixed and moving rudder and flaps?

Next problem...

The instructions say:
Check tail gear size to make a mark on the rudder.
According to the mark, drill a 2mm hole and cut a slot for the tail gear to be put into.

See the tail wheel clip.jpg, the flat plate with the 2 drilled holes is fitted parallel to the rear underside of the fuselage, therefore I assume that vertical shaft that travels through that flat plate is notched into the lower part of the rudder and then slotted into the rudder also. see Fitting the clip.jpg

Is this the best way to fix the tail wheel assy?

 

[Dazzy]

In my Super Flying Model J3 Cub Build 1st post, I posted an image of the plan and after reviewing that image I think Ive worked out howto attach the the tail wheel clip. Im thinking that if I create a thin slot in the lower part of the rudder the same width as the clip diameter vertically from the bottom and then create a 2nd slot horizontally across the lower portion of the rudder, then glue in place and that might solve my fixing method?

 

[TooJung2Die]

Referring to top image here.
According to 1:1 map, use a hobby knife to cut hinge holes

The instructions say hinge holes but the correct translation is hinge slots. Joe's Eaglet 50 PDF shows a good technique for manually cutting hinge slots. Use CA glue to attach the hinge material. Commercial CA hinges are thin plastic strips with a rough surface for the CA glue to grab. Insert the hinge in the slot and apply a drop of CA on both sides of the hinge at the slot. The CA wicks along the surface of the hinge and into the balsa slot. The kit should've included the hinges. I make my own CA hinges from Tyvek cloth. It is very flexible and impossible to tear. I get it from mailing pouches at the post office (free) and I scavenged a piece of Tyvek exterior siding wrap from a building site for even stronger hinges. One square foot of the stuff is enough for hundreds of hinges.

Im thinking that if I create a thin slot in the lower part of the rudder the same width as the clip diameter vertically from the bottom and then create a 2nd slot horizontally across the lower portion of the rudder, then glue in place and that might solve my fixing method?

You have the right idea for the tail wheel. Instead of cutting a horizontal slot in the rudder for the horizontal wire, drill a horizontal 2mm hole. It'll be stronger than a horizontal slot and invisible. Looks like the balsa is thick enough to drill. This is one of those times you want to use epoxy.
Jon

 

[Dazzy]

@TooJung2Die , hey Jon thanks for taking the time to explain here what the instructions have messed up. Awesome.
Darryl

Edit: Just did a google search for Joes eaglet 50 pdf but I didnt find it. Can you find the link?

Got it now, thanks mate.

 

[TooJung2Die]

Edit: Just did a google search for Joes eaglet 50 pdf but I didnt find it. Can you find the link?

It's the file Joe posted above, Post #2 😊 You found it? I recognize those instructions from the Apollo I got from SF Models. It was just an ARF kit but even then they couldn't have made it harder to understand if they tried. 🤢 I don't think anyone sells SF Models in the USA. I feel fortunate to have stumbled across one.

 

[Dazzy]

Besides missing parts like all the fuselage windows, awful instructions, missing detail on the plan the builds going slowly and well enough that I can figure out most steps. Will make a number of posts in the coming days on the now completed fuselage and tail section in the Simple Flying Model J3Cub Build.