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Tip Of The Spear

moret

Well-known member
#61
Yea I ran the a similar set up on the original Spear with a 3536 1200Kv and a 9x6 prop. The only difference on the 80% Spear was an 8x6. Plus the fact I made it an AET set up with the tail section hoping to stabilize it. Didn't work out for me. I am happy it worked out for you but unfortunately I won't be making a third. I will be moving into a different wing, haven't decided if it's the Versa because it's a tractor or the Goblin yet. What I am looking for is a good cam platform, and honestly I don't want the Versa because the prop is out front.
you can make the Versa wing as a tractor or as a pusher. Take a look at the build vedio
Mine just happens to be a tractor and I fly it with a "C" pack V2 and either a 3 or 4 S with a 9 X 4.7
If it was a pusher I would think you would need a lot of weight up front to get CG
 

BATTLEAXE

Well-known member
#62
That's what I am finding with the pusher wings is the do take a lot of weight to stabilize them somewhat. I have been looking at the Goblin and I think I might want to try that. I might upscale for a larger motor but the will see. I also have a few other build in mind before I return to the wing idea, I haven't decided yet
 

Tench745

Well-known member
#63
Most wings designed to be a pusher will have more sweep, moving the wing area aft, putting the center of lift closer to the existing CG. Of all the FT flying wings the Versa has the least sweep, so it is most susceptible to tail-heaviness in a pusher configuration
 

BATTLEAXE

Well-known member
#65
These are images I pulled off a google search for the punisher skull, here are some of the ones I got...
punisher outline 2 v2.jpg punisher outline 2 v3.jpg punisher outline 2.jpg
I just print them off, tape them to some card stock like a cereal box, cut them out with a hobby knife and use them as a stensil over and over again. Hope this helps
 

kilroy07

Well-known member
#70

BATTLEAXE

Well-known member
#71
On the fuse I peeped the paper off the outside and laminated poster board on, then clear packing tape over top to seal it from moisture. The wing and fins are black DTFB with packing tape over top
I think I would have pancaked it in at the beginning!
I think scaling it up helped it fly more stable, moving the CG back was a good option. You should try it since you were wondering if you could fly it. Let me know if it works for you
 

BATTLEAXE

Well-known member
#73
Well look at this its been over 10 months since there has been any action here. And look the last post was about the same plane I am about to play around with for my winter wing... THE GOBLIN!!

I remember how much fun I had with the last one so I decided to build another. This time it is upscaled to just 110% to handle the 2212 1400 on an 8" prop...
We
20201026_215100.jpg

Went with a similar color scheme to the last one, except this is all white on the bottom with a black stripe on the right wing. The last one was water proofed with packing tape, which made for a slippery plane to hand launch in the winter, so this is painted. Paint is what has sealed it as well so there is no polyurethane. The nose is covered from the bottom around the front and over the top in poster board for durability with belly landings in the farmers fiels of snow. Then once painted orange it is covered in packing tape for skid and scratch protection.
20201026_215352.jpg

I moved the Vstabs out to just inside the elevons. This eliminates that annoying little section that always gets bent trying to instal the vstabs plus move them out to clear a perfectly good APC 8x45 MR prop. For the most part because I am going for durability over the winter i do have all of the bottom of the airframe taped off, and pretty much sealed up against the elements. Other then the nose coming off the only other spot where moisture could get in would be the wing tips and the hole where the motor wires tuck into the fuse. Both of which can easily be remedied.
20201026_215503.jpg

The battery bay area is pretty clean, not much going on for the electronics, no FC or FPV. The receiver is a FlySky basic 6ch no telemetry kinda unit. I haven't tried it yet but fingers crossed. The Velcro straps are doubled up depending on the battery I am using, with a 2200 3s it still needed a little nose weight so 28g's of AA batteries glued to the front are helping to balance. Once this was done though i looked into the nose and now I figure i could cut the whole front panel off and let the battery hang into the nose further. I will try it this way and see what happens, if i need to change it i will. I figure this would be the weight of a camera anyway.
20201026_215517.jpg

The underside is where the battery parks, you can see what I was sayin earlier about removing the front panel, but that's a story for later. The straps will hold up to a 2200 4s so there should be some fast runs on this little guy in the near future.

Stay tuned for the maiden...
 

The Hangar

Well-known member
#74
Well look at this its been over 10 months since there has been any action here. And look the last post was about the same plane I am about to play around with for my winter wing... THE GOBLIN!!

I remember how much fun I had with the last one so I decided to build another. This time it is upscaled to just 110% to handle the 2212 1400 on an 8" prop...
We View attachment 181784
Went with a similar color scheme to the last one, except this is all white on the bottom with a black stripe on the right wing. The last one was water proofed with packing tape, which made for a slippery plane to hand launch in the winter, so this is painted. Paint is what has sealed it as well so there is no polyurethane. The nose is covered from the bottom around the front and over the top in poster board for durability with belly landings in the farmers fiels of snow. Then once painted orange it is covered in packing tape for skid and scratch protection.
View attachment 181785
I moved the Vstabs out to just inside the elevons. This eliminates that annoying little section that always gets bent trying to instal the vstabs plus move them out to clear a perfectly good APC 8x45 MR prop. For the most part because I am going for durability over the winter i do have all of the bottom of the airframe taped off, and pretty much sealed up against the elements. Other then the nose coming off the only other spot where moisture could get in would be the wing tips and the hole where the motor wires tuck into the fuse. Both of which can easily be remedied.
View attachment 181786
The battery bay area is pretty clean, not much going on for the electronics, no FC or FPV. The receiver is a FlySky basic 6ch no telemetry kinda unit. I haven't tried it yet but fingers crossed. The Velcro straps are doubled up depending on the battery I am using, with a 2200 3s it still needed a little nose weight so 28g's of AA batteries glued to the front are helping to balance. Once this was done though i looked into the nose and now I figure i could cut the whole front panel off and let the battery hang into the nose further. I will try it this way and see what happens, if i need to change it i will. I figure this would be the weight of a camera anyway. View attachment 181787
The underside is where the battery parks, you can see what I was sayin earlier about removing the front panel, but that's a story for later. The straps will hold up to a 2200 4s so there should be some fast runs on this little guy in the near future.

Stay tuned for the maiden...
Awesome - looking forward to the maiden! That reminds me - I want to make a 6s goblin at some point... :devilish:
 

Tench745

Well-known member
#75
That's not a goblin, that is clearly a toucan! Just needs some googly eyes.
Well look at this its been over 10 months since there has been any action here. And look the last post was about the same plane I am about to play around with for my winter wing... THE GOBLIN!!

I remember how much fun I had with the last one so I decided to build another. This time it is upscaled to just 110% to handle the 2212 1400 on an 8" prop...
We View attachment 181784
Stay tuned for the maiden...
 

BATTLEAXE

Well-known member
#78
I put 7 batts through the Goblin today, 1 of them was 4s.

Last night i made some of the changes i said I was going to by moving the control rods down on the servo arm, two holes down was the last hole on the inside. Cut the throws in half, I went for it and tried it out. First batt launched expectedly a little out of whack, had to re-trim mostly the elevator but there was some aileron as well. A couple laps later we are tracking like an arrow.

I forgot to mention I also took out the weights i had in it to balance and cut the front panel i installed so the battery could hang into the space inside the nose about an inch in a half. All said and done I got it to balance better and save 30 G's in weight, got it down to 590 grams AUW with a 2200 3s. In this first flight i did find that the full throttle rates were really anemic now, full stick over and the roll was so slow, like a lazy warbird. I ended up landing a couple times anyway adjusting other stuff so i eliminated the dynamic rates all together and go with full deflection all the time. Worked so much better.

It was such a nice day that i couldn't just go out for one session so there was an afternoon flight. Another couple batts, one being the 4s. That one scared the crap out of me, got a speed wobble at one point. I flew it out but i think the 4s will have to wait on that one at this point, However i do remember that my first Goblin last year was faster. Back to the hangar...

I received my watt meter in the mail today, so i thought I would do some tests. On 3s with the 8x45 prop i got 19 amps at 220 watts, same prop on 4s was 27 amps at 395 watts. Looking back i used a 9x6 on the 130% Goblin, so I pulled out a 8x6 and tried that. On 3s we are looking at 23 amps at 280 watts... butter zone. Ok now I have to fly this

Back out for a third time and armed with two 3s 2200's I go out to dial this thing in. The faster prop forced me to change the throttle/elevator trim some but other then that it is a predictable well rounded plank. Just what I was going for. Keep an eye open for some more video from this guy, I am looking into onboard cams

I
 

Wildthing

Well-known member
#79
I put 7 batts through the Goblin today, 1 of them was 4s.

Last night i made some of the changes i said I was going to by moving the control rods down on the servo arm, two holes down was the last hole on the inside. Cut the throws in half, I went for it and tried it out. First batt launched expectedly a little out of whack, had to re-trim mostly the elevator but there was some aileron as well. A couple laps later we are tracking like an arrow.

I forgot to mention I also took out the weights i had in it to balance and cut the front panel i installed so the battery could hang into the space inside the nose about an inch in a half. All said and done I got it to balance better and save 30 G's in weight, got it down to 590 grams AUW with a 2200 3s. In this first flight i did find that the full throttle rates were really anemic now, full stick over and the roll was so slow, like a lazy warbird. I ended up landing a couple times anyway adjusting other stuff so i eliminated the dynamic rates all together and go with full deflection all the time. Worked so much better.

It was such a nice day that i couldn't just go out for one session so there was an afternoon flight. Another couple batts, one being the 4s. That one scared the crap out of me, got a speed wobble at one point. I flew it out but i think the 4s will have to wait on that one at this point, However i do remember that my first Goblin last year was faster. Back to the hangar...

I received my watt meter in the mail today, so i thought I would do some tests. On 3s with the 8x45 prop i got 19 amps at 220 watts, same prop on 4s was 27 amps at 395 watts. Looking back i used a 9x6 on the 130% Goblin, so I pulled out a 8x6 and tried that. On 3s we are looking at 23 amps at 280 watts... butter zone. Ok now I have to fly this

Back out for a third time and armed with two 3s 2200's I go out to dial this thing in. The faster prop forced me to change the throttle/elevator trim some but other then that it is a predictable well rounded plank. Just what I was going for. Keep an eye open for some more video from this guy, I am looking into onboard cams

I
It's about time you got a watt meter, so much info available for a cheap tool.