Twitchity Hex - Oh boy, here we go again!

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
Mentor
Well, as some of you may have already seen Twitchity and Cranial teamed up to surprise me for Christmas with one of Twitchitys Hex frames and PDB. To say I'm blown away by this gift is a massive understatement. I feel truly unworthy of this amazing frame!

So...the least I can to do to repay them is of course to provide some feedback and document it as I have my other builds!

Since I wasn't expecting this I don't yet have any plans on how I'm going to build it out...but more on that in a moment. First let's take a look at this frame.

I didn't do any "unboxing" photos since I didn't know what I was unboxing :D But the frame came very securely packed as everything else Twitchity has sent me always arrives. Pieces were wrapped individually or in pairs and the wrapped packages were taped together to keep it all from bouncing around in shipment - top notch!

First thing I did was lay it all out to see just what I had received:

10878459_10152451143106805_323781870_o.jpg

I noticed that Twitchity has upgraded the hardware from stainless to aluminum since he posted about the CF edition of this frame.

The thicknesses of some of the parts have been revised since that post and the matte finish CF intrigued me enough I had to bust out the calipers and take a few measurements.

Bottom Frame: 1.5mm (varied from 1.27 to 1.35 depending on where I measured it but I'm guessing it's sold as 1.5mm sheet)
Top Frame: 1.5mm (varied from 1.30 to 1.44 - I won't actually be using this piece due to the PDB replacing it.)
Cage Plate: 1mm (varied from 0.80 to 0.94)
Mobius Mount: 1mm (pretty consistently 0.84)
Board Cam mount: 1.5mm (pretty consistently 1.35)
Board Cam mount elimination plate: 1.5mm (I assume that's what this is intended for. It came in at 1.43 consistently)
Arms: 4mm (Most very consistent at 3.85 though one came in at 3.70)

Now keep in mind my calipers are $10 cheapies from harbor freight so don't take these as absolute measurements. Overall though the consistency of the CF is WAY better than the G10/CF hybrid material used in my emax FPV 250 frame which varied far more across pieces and much more from piece to piece.

My past experience with CF frames is somewhat limited. I helped my friend build his warp but he had already done all the finishing on the CF as recommended by Soma - though he did have some spare arms I got to feel to see what it was like as shipped. I also have the emax FPV 250 I already mentioned which is a G10/CF hybrid material where the bulk of it is G10 with thin CF laminates over the top.

The finish on this out of the package blows either of them away. The CF on the warp is fantastic but it does require finishing as the edges are almost razor sharp (I actually tried to shave a few hairs on my arm with one of the arms just for giggles - which is how I know that they're only almost razor sharp :D) The hybrid material used on the emax frame left my hands raw and itchy after handling it and even wearing gloves while finishing it my hands got tore up from the sharp edges.

Twitch says his only trick on this stuff is to rub it on his jeans after cutting it with a diamond bit in his CNC. So I'm guessing it's something about this particular CF and his CNC setup that results in such remarkable out of the box finish. Or he's got some magical jeans...but I'm betting it's his CNC setup and the material ;) I'm still going to give this a quick once over in the sink with some 400 or 600 grit sandpaper - but you could probably get away with skipping it if you were careful to avoid edges when routing wires. I love the smooth edge CF gets when properly finished though and don't want to worry about any wires getting scraped so I'll spend a half hour to an hour cleaning things up.

The CF itself is very unique in appearance and is hard to capture in an image or describe. It's not really matte, but it's not quite semi-gloss:

10860626_10152451142626805_1061899756_o.jpg

10860628_10152451142801805_1862877391_o.jpg

Under magnification the weave looks beautiful, and a quick check with my multimeter confirmed that it is indeed conductive across the cut edges. However I had a VERY hard time getting a reading across the faces. It took some serious scraping to a reading - far more than it took with the warp CF or the emax hybrid material. So whatever it is the manufacturer does to give it the matte appearance seems to insulate it quite well. Since the cut edges are still conductive though I'd still suggest all the usual CF precautions.

It was all I could do to put off trying to assemble it...but the mail came midday an I had a lot of work for my job to finish. Finally Friday evening on my wife's lunch break I was able to steal enough time to just barely pull off a quick test assembly:

10876818_10152451564246805_1606296180_o.jpg

Everything went together perfect first try. The tolerances are tight and there's no slop...but there's no interference either. On the warp a few screws were kind of tight and difficult to get in and the emax a few things seemed just slightly off but pulled together when assembled. This is remarkably accurate machining for some guy in his garage!

10856430_10152451563896805_366396656_o.jpg

I did run into a minor issue during assembly trying to keep all 18 of those screws in! A bit of painters tape on them held them in place. But if Twitchity does a V4 I'd love to see him do something more like the emax frame where the cage mounts to the top plate and there are holes in the bottom plate to access the screws for the cage. That setup makes it possible to run "naked" without the cage and makes assembly much easier. At a minimum I'd suggest adding holes at the end of the battery strap slots so the FC mount screws are accessible...mainly because I'd like to be able to snug them up from time to time after having the FC come loose on my emax :D

10855932_10152451563301805_623105647_o.jpg

I didn't take time to weight individual pieces, when I take it apart for actual assembly I'll do so if there's interest. According to Twitchity's thread the original CF prototype came in at 246g with the thicker plates and SS hardware. So it seems he's shaved 40g off of this frame with the changes. That doesn't sound like a lot, but to put it in perspective my mobius weights in at 39g - so he's basically shaved off the weight of a mobius so this frame with mobius should weight about the same as the original without. Not bad and even without fully tightening up the nuts this frame is SOLID and I have no doubts it will take me some serious effort to find any weaknesses in it :D

My only major concern is the bobbins for the mobius mount. I'm not convinced they'll really be beneficial. Given the light weight of the Mobius they seem too stiff to really give any benefit. Even on my emax with really soft ball style silicone dampeners I don't see much if any benefit from them. With or without I seem to get the same minimal jello. So I can't really see these stiffer bobbins giving much benefit. My other concern is that in crashes with the emax I almost always knock the mobius mount loose - which helps absorb some of the impact the mobius experiences. On here with the bobbins mounted on studs I won't have to worry as much about loosing the mobius - but I am a bit more concerned about damaging it in a crash. Drilling for ball dampeners will be tricky since the holes will have to be recentered - and I don't have a drill press anymore, so I won't be making that change anytime too soon.

Overall I'm blown away by this frame. It's easily on a par with the warp as far as quality and I can't wait to get some gear on it and get it in the air. Which means I need to make some decisions about what to put on it!

My first choice is Cobra 2204's with KISS esc's - like Cranial set the original Twitchity Hex up with. I'm just not sure I can swing it with my budget. I could pull the KISS's cranial sent me off my Twitchity quad and with the two spares he sent I'd have enough for this. I just kind of hate to pull them off of there since they finally solved the issues I had with that quad.

I've been very happy with the emax ESC's on the emax FPV 250 and they're also one of the lowest cost ESC's I'd consider. They come with a modified version of blheli on them...but for this I'd want to flash the latest blheli and use regen which their modified version doesn't include. And since they're silabs chips flashing them is a bit different than what I've done before and they can't be modified through the signal wire after flashing due to memory limits on the silabs chips.

The ZTW Spider ESC's I've heard a lot of good things about lately. They're almost as small as the KISS and use AVR chips so flashing them and being able to program through the signal wire is the same as on my BS and F20 ESC's. They don't have BEC's on them unlike the emax esc's...but I already have a spare pololu regulator on hand and the PDB is setup for that so no BEC isn't a big deal. The ZTW's are also about the same price (actually a little bit cheaper from most sources - about $4 less for 6 esc's which about covers the cost of a pololu!) as the emax so they really appeal to my budget.

What I will probably do is get a set of ZTW's for the quad and devote all 6 of my KISS to this hex. Then in a few months when I can save up the money get more KISS for the quad - unless the ZTW's with BLheli really blow me away ;)

So that leaves a question of motors. I REALLY want to run 2204's on here. I loved the SunnySky's on my friends warp, but I've heard so many great things about the Cobras I'd really like to give them a try. And most reputable sellers are still charging a bit more for the Sunny's than the Cobras. Emax also has some 2204's that are an even cheaper option I'm tempted by since I've been very happy with the 1806 emax motors on my emax FPV 250. Though I'm still a bit concerned about the long term durability of the emax motors.

But with Christmas this week I just don't have the budget for any parts for at least another week or two. So I've got time to think this over and would love to hear any thoughts or suggestions. Cranial has already made a VERY strong case for going with Cobras and ZTW's - but I'm leaning towards Cobras and KISS - other than the fact that it will probably take me an extra month or more to save up that much.

The other big question is what to do for a flight controller. I do have a Flip Pro on hand...and I am planning on building this out as a FPV rig (I'll need to pick up another VTX but I have a spare camera on hand already) which means I'll want an OSD and GPS as well. I don't need them...but a GPS is cheap to add and I like being able to keep an eye on my pack voltage and get hints towards finding my way home with an OSD. The Flip pro would work...but seems a little low class for this frame.

I don't want to run Naze again. If I was just building it for LOS and acro then I'd be ok with a Naze acro. But being a full FPV hex I want better GPS and serial than Naze can provide.

A flyingF4 won't fit so as much as I'm enjoying it on my knuckle that's out :D

I may give a Sparky a try...but the memory limit has me a bit concerned. Quanton is really appealing...but the form factor would present some mounting issues since this frame is setup for a 36x36 board like a Naze. Sparky2 is what I'm dying for but it's not out yet...and I doubt I could talk Peabody into letting me beta test one :D

The new BrainFPV is really calling to me other than it's price. But if I can swing it I think it's what I'll go with as other than the lack of an integrated telemetry radio it has everything I want in a high end FC for an FPV rig.

So stay tuned, progress will probably be slow due to my budget limitations - but this is the time of year when my budget isn't quite as limiting. (And I just found out from our dogs vet today that they're going to switch her to a different arthritis medication that's substantially cheaper than the one she's on now which is costing me $70 a month - so that may help boost my budget a bit!) In the meantime I'd love to hear any thoughts or ideas on motors/ESC's/FC that the community may have! I'll leave this with a final outside glamour shot:

10864115_10152454799666805_374642774_o.jpg
 

x0054

Senior Member
I am back after a month of being away from the hobby, really miss the flying, just too much stuff going on. But I logged in to do a little update on my slow Foldy 2 progress, and saw your post. That's a really beautiful hex! I wanted to chime in on the Cobra 2204 motors, those were the motors on my Foldy 1 quad, the one that when on a voyage of self discovery.

I had the motors on my 250mm H Quad first, and then on the Foldy quad. I have a very mixed opinion about those motors. On the plus side, they were very powerful and very quick. However, after about a month of running them, about 12 flights or so, with only a few very minor crashes all 4 motors developed quite a bit of sloop in the bearings. About 0.8-1mm vertically, and noticeable but probably less then .2mm horizontally. I contacted Cobra and their response was not encouraging. They basically told me that they never had such complaints from any other customers, so.... I must be imagining things.

That being said, I never actually had a problem with the motors, though the quad did fly away, so who knows, maybe more serious problems would have developed later on, or maybe they would have worked just fine for a very long time. I must say though that my cheep no name motors on my Tricopter still have 0 sloop, and my 1804 Emax motors are also mostly sloop free after many, many flights (one has been slightly damaged in a hard crash).

I may have just gotten a bad batch, and I don't want to say anything bad about the Cobra company, because, like I mentioned, the motors never actually let me down, and were very well designed. But the progressive increase of the play in the bearings did bother me quite a bit.

- Bogdan
 

cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding face plant!
Mentor
I'm pretty excited to see what you do with this. I love my hex.

Me too!

Actually, all the giving started with Twitchity here. He then set me up with a tricopter I had been drooling over. That freed up some cash for some other toys and a lump of coal!

As far as being unworthy, jhitesma, I'm sure you will rise to the occasion.

I think you should let Peabody see this thread and that copter and let him decide who beta tests the Sparky2. I am really hoping to see a few boards other than KK2s, Flips and Naze32s go into some copters and have been following TAU and the Sparky2 vicariously through you for a month or so now.

The way this copter is built and assembled, the booms support the plates by penetrating deeply into the center of the copter. Once assembled, it makes wiring tight without the PDB, but I think I could use my copter as a lever to lift my truck. :)
 

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
Mentor
I think you should let Peabody see this thread and that copter and let him decide who beta tests the Sparky2. I am really hoping to see a few boards other than KK2s, Flips and Naze32s go into some copters and have been following TAU and the Sparky2 vicariously through you for a month or so now.

I think you gave Balu some ideas:
https://twitter.com/balu/status/546707626391011328

The more I think about it though the more I'm thinking the BrainFPV board may be a better choice for this. I'm absolutely in love with the Sparky2 and would gladly trade my first born for the chance to test one (Heck the way she's acting been the past month I'd probably trade her for a KK2. Ok...maybe two KK2's :D )

Seriously tough I do love the Sparky2 but the big thing I love about it is the integrated RFM22B with the potential for LRS control and telemetry. But...my openLRS gave me another problem this morning (didn't get to fly the FPV rig as a result) and for an FPV hex an integrated high performance OSD appeals to me more than an integrated telemetry radio.

Telemetry would be nice, but OSD is a higher priority in my book. I could always add an OSD to a Sparky2...but then that's one more piece to wire up and it was adding the OSD that took the wiring on my emax from "nice and clean" to "a rat would move it it's so messy" :cool:

The way this copter is built and assembled, the booms support the plates by penetrating deeply into the center of the copter. Once assembled, it makes wiring tight without the PDB, but I think I could use my copter as a lever to lift my truck. :)

Yes, it's VERY strong. But I'm not talking about changing how the booms mount. Just how the top cage mounts. The top cage mounts don't really add that much strength - their screws just go into the nylon standoffs. It's the screws that mount the arms that give it most of it's strength. I think mounting the top cage so it only bolts to the top plate instead of both plates would only cost an insignificant amount of strength but would ease the assembly considerably and make it easier to take the cage off for maintenance.

With the PDB the tight wiring isn't an issue :D But I can see how it would be tricky to fit it all in without that! I think this is one thing the design on the emax frame does really well. The aluminum spacers on the arms give lots of room in that bottom section (enough I was able to mount the ESC's in there) and it's still very strong.

Again - not criticizing Twitchity's design...it's super strong and I'd be shocked if someone could manage to do more than break an arm. And even that I suspect will take a pretty impressive series of hard crashes. Just a few thoughts on things he may want to consider if he does another revision. Simply making the 8 holes on the bottom plate that the cage attaches to large enough to clear the head of the cage screws would let him eliminate the 8 plastic spacers and make assembly much easier without really compromising strength very much.

I'll try and do some partial assembly photos to demonstrate what I'm talking about over the next few days, I think that will make it more clear.
 

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
Mentor
Me too!

Actually, all the giving started with Twitchity here. He then set me up with a tricopter I had been drooling over. That freed up some cash for some other toys and a lump of coal!

As far as being unworthy, jhitesma, I'm sure you will rise to the occasion.

Well, I'm going to keep the giving going. Passing along my original beta twitchity quad parts, PDB V1 and BS12 ESC's to a co-worker who's been wanting to get into multis. He'll just have to buy motors and an RX - maybe a FC (I offered him my afromini or Flip Pro but he's favoring an acro Naze.) Of course he has to buy himself a real TX first...he's been wanting to for over a year to go with his mini FP heli's...but hasn't pulled the trigger. And I figure this way I also gain someone to fly with :D

You guys have to be careful with this praise though, I'm a humble guy by nature and still think you're giving me too much credit...but you're making it tough to keep that level of humility :eek:
 

califrag

Senior Member
Nice! I'm eager to see your build. Mine has been on hold due to motor RMA and the replacements being OOS. Twitchity is a really extraordinary person.
 

Twitchity

Senior Member
I appreciate the feedback you've provided on the frame, jhitesma. I'll be revising the design so you can access the front FC bolts from the bottom side of the frame when it's fully assembled. As for the bolts for the standoffs, I wanted them to go through both plates to further increase the rigidity of the frame. With how far the arms protrude into the center of the frame, this may have been a little overkill.

I measured the CF when I got the shipment in and according to my caliper it was within .05mm of the intended thickness. I think the key to having the edges come off the CNC so nice is due to the fact that I cut .5mm deep for each cut. The bits I'm using with my machine seem to work the best at this setting so I've stuck with it.

I'll be interested to hear your input on the Mobius mount and what can be done to help reduce jello in the video some more. I know Code modified the mount and used antivibration balls and noticed a decrease in the jello he was getting in his footage. Ultimately there isn't a lot of room on this thing once everything is said and done.

Keep the updates coming! That's the first time I've seen the hex assembled with the PDB. And thank you for the kind words, califrag. Did your new PDB show up in the mail yet?
 

x0054

Senior Member
Twitchity, vibration isolation is all about the mass. If you can figure out how to combine the battery and the camera mount as a single mass, and place isolators for both of them, you will get really good results, I think. That's the idea behind the setup on the Foldy quad. The first one was jello free. The second one I have yet to test, we shell see.
 

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
Mentor
So I warned progress would be slow on this one. There should be some progress tomorrow as apparently Cranial wants me to move faster and a box with some "motivation" (or should I say motorvation) is here in town and scheduled for delivery tomorrow. I don't have tomorrow off :( but it's not a huge loss since I still haven't made any progress on the question of FC and ESC's. That isn't to say I haven't been giving them a lot of thought.

On the FC front I'm really wanting to go with the Brain...just not sure if I'm willing to wait until I can afford it :) So I may go with something else to get in the air initially. Not in a huge rush though due to the ESC situation.

As for ESC's...I think I'm settled that I'm going to take the KISS from the quad and the 2 spares and run them on here. So the real question is what kind of ESC's to get for the quad. Eventually I plan on replacing the KISS with more KISS...but again the budget won't let that happen right away so I need to find a compromise.

So I've been doing a lot of reading and thinking about ESC's. There's a project to put oneshot on blHeli ESC's. It's still in very early stages but it looks like it's coming together. However AVR based ESC's aren't as well suited to it because they generally have the input wired to the wrong pin. On some you can rewire them to use a different pin, and the afros already use the pin needed for good oneshot - so it's a real mixed bag. On the Silabs based ESC's this isn't an issue - they are all wired in a way that works well with oneshot. However due to memory limitations the SiLabs chips don't support 1-wire programming which is the tool I made myself for flashing and modifying my AVR based blheli ESC's. I don't have a toolstick for flashing silabs chips (though I could make one out of a spare arduino board) but even then to make changes to them and reflash you have to add a programming header.

Oneshot may make a difference, but without a good comp pwm/regenerative/damped light (depending on who's name you choose) it doesn't really matter all that much. And not many ESC's other than the KISS will do that. Now I don't plan on going 4S so that helps a little as most of the problems seem to be when people push things to super high KV's on 4S. So I'm looking for an ESC that will do damped light on blheli and has the input wired so it will work with oneshot.

I've been fairly happy with the emax 12a "SimonSeries" esc's that actually run blheli (I was initially wary of them due to the misbranding and re-use of OS software without acknowledgement - but emax did the right thing and shared their code back to blheli so I no longer have any reservations about them.) They're also cheap (<$9 delivered) and should run the oneshot code fairly well I'd expect. But I'd have to deal with the silabs flashing interface.

The ZTW spiders have also caught my eye and I believe Cranial is hoping I choose them as he just bought some. They have a drawback of being opto so no BEC - but I have a spare pololu on hand so for me it's not a big deal, heck the quad where they're going already has a pololu installed. They're cheaper than the emax and even smaller. I've also heard good reports about their performance with blHeli and damped light. But...then oneshot came to BL - and I don't know yet if the ZTW's are wired correctly for oneshot or can be rewired if not. So I'm waiting to hear how that pans out.

The new 12a multistar v2's are also somewhat tempting - but are silabs again and I think I'd rather stick with the emax if I stick silabs.

The rotorgeeks 12a's are also fairly tempting...but considerably more expensive and silabs based - though they do have a programming header added already which is nice.

The other intersting option are the Argonaut 20a's. http://www.rctimer.com/product-1179.html Again a silabs blheli design but with a somewhat unique form factor. The guy doing the blheli oneshot just got these going with it and it looks promising. They're also reasonably priced and I've heard favorable things about them in damped mode. They are a little "fat" for the quad though.

I'm leaning towards the emax at this point if they end up working with oneshot. It will finally give me an excuse to dive into flashing silabs chips and maybe I'll even decide to upgrade the firmware on the ones in my FPV quad as a result.

Then again if the ZTW turn out to be oneshot capable I'd rather go with them.

Thankfully I'm still a few weeks away from being able to make a decision financially so I can sit back and watch to see how the oneshot project does for now.

Sure will feel pressured to get going on it though once there are motors on those arms!
 

cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding face plant!
Mentor
My ZTW purchase was to play with them on the Tri-copter.

I still need to rebuild my carbon fiber hex with the PDB.

Take your time. I got plenty of copters to build/crash/fly. :cool:
 

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
Mentor
Well I finally grabbed the latest verison of blHeli which has more details on the ZTW's and Emax.

The emax are off my list now, they don't support damped light and have slow fets. So they probably won't give any major performance improvement with updated firmware. They fly fairly well, but without any possibility of damped light they're off my list.

The ZTW's do support damped light, they lack temperature protection and low voltage detection - both of which are a liability in a multi so don't affect me. They don't sound any better than the bs20's on my knuckle - but I've been happy with their performance on there. So the ZTW's are up a notch in my consideration. Just have to figure out if they're oneshot capable or not.

I'm still looking for better details on the argonauts and their performance. I'm not in a big rush to jump to siLabs since I'm more comfortable with avr - but I could flash one of my arduinos to use as a programmer, and the silabs support hooking up up to 8 ESC's at once making it easy to make sure your settings are consistent on a multi.

Anyway, the motors DID arrive today and I gave them a quick test fit. Turns out I only had one arm flipped - easy enough to fix when this comes apart for finishing and full assembly.

10912724_10152497372976805_253461491_o.jpg

Fun story. Google goggles identified this photo as having to do with "Tron":
10907176_10152497372646805_1845569835_o.jpg

I'll try and get the finishing on the carbon done the next few days. I'm not in a big rush as I've been talking to Twitchity and there may be a few changes coming to the arms on this build - nothing set yet but unless I have everything ready to go on the build I'm not in a big rush to spend time in the sink with the arms and the wet/dry ;)

These motors are beautiful and I can't wait to power them up. So there's a chance I may get antsy the next few days and since I'm taking the KISS from the quad anyway I may also grab the nano off there until I can get a permanent board for this. The quad is coming apart again anyway as I got some a new arm to replace the one that burned - but we're also working on a bit of a change there as well ;)
 

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
Mentor
Decided to start on this tonight, or at least get it apart so I can sand the arms tomorrow. Since I've decided to strip the quad for it's ESC's I may as well borrow the FC as well and that gives me what I need to get it airborn. CranialR did challenge me to build it convertible style and try it out in full sport mode before building it up for full FPV. I don't want to get too crazy with it so I don't plan on keeping it convertible very long...but...what the heck let's get the bench messy while I wait to figure out what ESC's I'm going to order for the quad.

Something struck me as odd though...I thought the cobra motors were all black...and they had looked all black as I installed them on the quad - though I did so in a rush while feverish and with poor lighting. But that photo above the base looked...slightly green.

Hmmm.

Took a closer look at the motors and realized some were black and some were green:
10909215_10152503407891805_1924992029_o.jpg

With them all off again it was obvious that 2 were black bases while 4 were green:
10909534_10152503940356805_1803299932_o.jpg

Since these were a gift I'm not sure if they were all ordered at the same time. The boxes all looked identical at first glance - but when I looked closer I saw they had what appear to be date codes. But that doesn't line up with the color discrepancy as only one was dated 12.05.2014 while the other 5 were dated 1.09.2014. So 5 from one manufacturing batch and one from antother but 4 of one color and 2 of another:
10901518_10152503940516805_40821048_o.jpg


Looking at the boxes again now I see that the designation has changed and apparently they dropped the "28 KV-" part and shortened it down to just "CM2204/2300" on the newer boxes. None of this is a big deal, the color discrepancy doesn't bother me as I barely noticed it in the first place. I'll just try and remember to put the two black ones in positions that make it look like they're there on purpose ;)

What does worry me a little is one of the black ones has a bit of axial play. Not much, I can't even measure it with my calipers. I'll try and rig something with a dial indicator tomorrow to get an exact measurement on it. It's less play than any of my DYS motors and no worse than the worst of my emax. What's odd is I don't see any setscrew on the bell so I'm not sure how the bell could be adjusted to remove the play. (Yep - seems the shaft is not considered replaceable on this latest design: http://rotorgeeks.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=149)


Anyway, it's all apart now:
10901329_10152503940691805_156208188_o.jpg

I also had a look at the PDB as CranialR and Twitchity had both asked me if I thought the same problem I experienced on the quad was present here. My initial thought was that no - it wasn't going to be an issue because of the mounting being inverted - but with a caveat that until I took it apart again and took a closer look I couldn't say for sure.

Well, having taken it apart and taken a closer look...it's actually worse :(

There are vias directly under arms - and those are places where damage to the solder mask is more likely to occur :( There are also traces that pass under the arms - again creating areas that the solder mask could wear at an accelerated rate. And the gaps around the holes are undersized just like on the quad boards. So yes - if you have one of these PDB's you need to take extra care to make sure your frame stays electrically isolated. I'll be posting some more in depth ideas on this soon - just need to get my thoughts together on just how I'm going to approach it. Doing a good job finishing the arms so they're less likely to scratch the solder mask if they move is definitely the first step. I'm just not sure exactly what I'll be using for insulation between the arms and the PDB - and I'd like to do something under the screw heads as well, but again not sure what yet.

Still - if I'm feeling better tomorrow and have time to tackle it I may get this in the air or almost in the air. I'm not trying to rush it though so if I at least get the arms finished and ESC's wired up to the motors I'll be happy.
 

Quad

Senior Member
This is a beautiful build. The frame is amazing. Does Twitchity have a store front or is it word of mouth?
 

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
Mentor
He only does sales by request through email or PM at this time. Right now the frames are still more or less experimental and he's working to find reliable vendors on the materials - so the frames are custom cut per order right now.
 

cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding face plant!
Mentor
All motors but one were bought at the same time. All motors were bought from my favorite electronics shop, including the one-off but with a 90 day delay between orders. I can now see one green base on one motor on my G10 Hex. The other 5 are black. I have never noticed a difference in performance.

I found this which is relavant in an oddly irrelevant way:
http://blog.oscarliang.net/cobra-2204-32-1960kv-motor-review-mini-h-spider/

There were at one point green bases with tabs and without prop adapters from Cobra for planes. A Google photo search will show a few of those. The black bases without the tabs were made for multirotors. Then you and I have green bases without tabs too and I have no idea what that is about.

Kinda cool Cobra green tho. :)

I should have send you some stickers to go with them.



I believe Twitchity custom makes each frame to order. Email him if you are interested. I think he is away for a few days and I know he and jhitesma are experimenting with some new materials. Since he was 'born here', if he ever gets a storefront, I kinda hope it's FliteTest. :)
 

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
Mentor
All motors but one were bought at the same time. All motors were bought from my favorite electronics shop, including the one-off but with a 90 day delay between orders. I can now see one green base on one motor on my G10 Hex. The other 5 are black. I have never noticed a difference in performance.

It's a really subtle color difference and easy to miss ;) Doesn't bother or worry me, just found it kind of curious. I know the more OCD builders would go crazy if they got an order of motors and 2 were a slightly different color - but from arms length they look the same to me so in the air there's no difference and that's what really matters to me :D

I'm guessing the one ordered at a different time was the one with the different datestamp. Just wish I had been more careful inspecting them as they came out of the box so I could identify if that was the one that has the bit of axial play. They have individual serial numbers on them and support is done through the manufacturer so I'm a little tempted to see about sending the one with some play in to see if they want to address it. It's really not much play though and I'm pretty sure that after a few weeks of flying they'll all be about like that. Once I can get a better measurement on it we'll see if I feel it's worth bothering the manufacturer over or not.

There were at one point green bases with tabs and without prop adapters from Cobra for planes. A Google photo search will show a few of those. The black bases without the tabs were made for multirotors. Then you and I have green bases without tabs too and I have no idea what that is about.

I believe they still make the plane versions, I came across them several times while shopping around to see if there were any better deals on the Cobras. Seems that innov8tive who are the US distributor have a pretty good lock on the market and everyone sells the Cobras at the same fixed price so there's no real shopping around on them.

Kinda cool Cobra green tho. :)

Once I noticed it I did like it, just thought I was going crazy at first that they seemed to have changed color on me :D
 

Balu

Lurker
Staff member
Admin
Moderator
Jhitesma, how do you finish the arms? Just some sandpaper on the edges?
 

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
Mentor
Jhitesma, how do you finish the arms? Just some sandpaper on the edges?

Yes, 400 grit sandpaper under water to stop any dust from getting airborne. It's not that hard...just none of my sinks are at a convenient height so I hate doing it :)

Ended up going flying this afternoon instead of working on the hex. Gave the quad a last bashing before it comes apart to await new ESC's. It did great - even with a friend flying it for his first time with a "real" quad and both of us giving it some impressive crashes. We were just running some 5045 gemfans I found laying around and remarkably didn't even break one..bent the heck out of all of them but didn't actually break any :cool:

He did have a hard time with it when I forgot to set it back to the "easy" profile after showing off the kind of acrobatics it could do on my profile...but other than that he had a blast with his first taste of a real quad - and after seeing me crash at full speed a few times he wasn't as worried and started to have more fun ;)