Warning......Heads-Up on the GOOP

naejer

Junior Member
Would like to share an incident that came upon me regarding a 3 cell 2200mA Lipo and because of trying to tweak or improve on something nearly had serious consequence but fortunately was caught in time !

For several years now I have been utilizing Shoe Goo… ( same as Amazing Goop, E-6000, etc…) to effect various gluing jobs where weight is of no concern …durable and most importantly not brittle…. since it was a good electrical dielectric I had utilized it over the years on several projects to prevent wiring harness from breaking off thru flexing/movement on cct boards, etc… I always preferred these goop glues over RTV because of their strength and that the bulk of RTVs being sold will corrode electrical components quickly due to the off gassing of acetic acid (from the web….”curing agents for RTVs with Acetoxy and Oxime are harmful to electronic components…. whereas RTVs utilizing Alkoxy and Acetone should only be utilized for potting electronics). Never had a problem till now……..

Two years ago I had squirted a little over a pea size amount of Shoe Goo into the opening of where the balancing and main power leads exits the cell. Because this particular cell’s construction, I was afraid that the balancing leads would eventually fall off over time and thus they required potting for additional strength …..hence the squirt of glue goop in the opening…..over the years this battery had performed flawlessly in my multi-copters and heli until I came to utilize it few days ago and discovered that one of the cells was giving me fluctuating voltages on the balancing leads yet the main power lead reading was OK ( I always check prior to flight and before charging)

Pealing back the protective tape to take a look…. I was shocked to discover that 3 of the balancing leads and the + main lead were severely corroded and one balancing lead had just fallen off…..I was surprised because I had never seen this anywhere else where I had utilized goop near electrical components but this was my first time on a Lipo….and to my surprise the glue was easy to peal off because it had broken down!

These goop glues all have perchloroethylene (dry cleaning fluid) in their mix and thus I started surfing the net for possible clues as to what might have occurred …….here is a link to an Occupational Health Guide for Perchloroethylene being a strong oxidizer in regards to certain elements….and what caught my eye was the mentioning of lithium ……also i heard that it was corrosive towards aluminum ( this cell's balancing connector wires)

From now on for me these glue goops are not coming anywhere near anything remotely electrical and I am lucky it was discovered on the ground vice in the air via a battery shorting out!
 

rcspaceflight

creator of virtual planes
Do you know if hot glue would work without issue? I think recommending a good glue to use will really finish the thread off.
 

RAM

Posted a thousand or more times
I was thinking of using plumbers putty, not for adhesion but as an insulation on my connectors. My son suggested using the putty electricians use for wire feedthru's. Not sure if they are similar compounds.

For my esc's I used red insulation varnish per this video:
 

naejer

Junior Member
I was thinking of using plumbers putty, not for adhesion but as an insulation on my connectors. My son suggested using the putty electricians use for wire feedthru's. Not sure if they are similar compounds.
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Be careful RAM when utilizing putties or epoxies due to some having conductive additives such as metallic fine powders....thus not a good idea in close proximity to electrical components/connectors

Rej
 
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naejer

Junior Member
Hot glue is widely used for this purpose, but I can't say whether it will hold up long term.

Ya.....hot glue is what I normally utilize in addition to the heat shrink at the ends where power leads are soldered to the main battery connector; however, hot glue is not the best at times when you want a wiring harness to be also anchored to a PC board because in short time the glue joint breaks away from the smooth surface. I did salvage sbj battery mentioned in first post by cleaning away corrosion, installed new balancing leads and this time added liberal dose of hot glue.

Here are some Dow Corning RTVs that are non-corrosive, I just have to select the ones that are not too flexible and do not have ridiculous lengthy curing time.....

738 electrical sealant (more expensive because of MIL spec standards )

739 plastic adhesive

748 non-corrosive sealant

832 multi-surface adhesive sealant

Rej
 

SteevyT

Senior Member
How about Liquid Electrical Tape or Plastidip?

Both are ridiculously hard to peel off of anything once coated.