ithink2020
Member
I'm just starting out. Well, again, but been away for 25+ years and never soloed..successfully... So, what is something(s) you would have liked to know, when you were just starting out?
What is something would have liked to known starting out?
- Thread starter ithink2020
- Start date
what is the least expensive way to get into the hobby, to find out if you enjoy it, and learn to fly.
i went through some expensive rtf's because i had no clue until i found rcgroups. and even then, there are so many opinions as to how to go about getting started.
unfortunately, many roads lead to the same destination, and until you get there, you don't know which would have been best for you.
i could easily have saved a thousand dollars, and still be where i am today, after 18 months.
even then, there are many shiny alluring airplanes that i am still attracted to, but shouldn't buy.
for me, knowing what i know now, i probably should have started with a hobbyzone sport cub abd dx6e tx, or maybe an eflite umx turbo timber.
spectrum safe/as3x makes learning and flying so much easier, and crashes much more preventable.
the best thing would have been an instructor, but covid has prevented that so far.
i went through some expensive rtf's because i had no clue until i found rcgroups. and even then, there are so many opinions as to how to go about getting started.
unfortunately, many roads lead to the same destination, and until you get there, you don't know which would have been best for you.
i could easily have saved a thousand dollars, and still be where i am today, after 18 months.
even then, there are many shiny alluring airplanes that i am still attracted to, but shouldn't buy.
for me, knowing what i know now, i probably should have started with a hobbyzone sport cub abd dx6e tx, or maybe an eflite umx turbo timber.
spectrum safe/as3x makes learning and flying so much easier, and crashes much more preventable.
the best thing would have been an instructor, but covid has prevented that so far.
Bricks
Master member
Get and use a good simulator before anything else. The last time I had flown RC was using rubberband actuators and a transmitter with one button. If you have a club near by go there and talk to the people there about equipment what they use, they may even have a club plane you can fly with an instructor. Buying equipment that others there use will make that part of the learning experience much easier.
Bisco has some good recommendations for the first plane My first plane getting back in to the hobby was Horizons Sport Cub S, I new I wanted Spektrum transmitter so went on RC groups and purchased a used DX6 gen 2, that served me for 2 years until I wanted to add extra capabilities, sold the DX6 for what I paid for it and bought a used DX9. Most all of my equipment and planes I have purchased used as it saves a ton of money. The peripherals such as servos and receivers etc I have purchased new.
One of the reasons I chose Spektrum was there customer service and reliability, even those I purchased my transmitters used if I had a problem Spektrum has never charged me except postage to them for a repair.
Bisco has some good recommendations for the first plane My first plane getting back in to the hobby was Horizons Sport Cub S, I new I wanted Spektrum transmitter so went on RC groups and purchased a used DX6 gen 2, that served me for 2 years until I wanted to add extra capabilities, sold the DX6 for what I paid for it and bought a used DX9. Most all of my equipment and planes I have purchased used as it saves a ton of money. The peripherals such as servos and receivers etc I have purchased new.
One of the reasons I chose Spektrum was there customer service and reliability, even those I purchased my transmitters used if I had a problem Spektrum has never charged me except postage to them for a repair.
SSgt Duramax
Junior Member
I dont know about initially starting the hobby. My first true rc plane was a hobbyzone (i think) 3ch trainer with a brushed motor and nicd batteries.
As far as scratch building foam planes, things like how to make good cuts with a razor, the proper way to do templates and plans, and the alternatives to hot glue and when to use them would have resulted in less planes hitting the scrap pile as fast.
As far as scratch building foam planes, things like how to make good cuts with a razor, the proper way to do templates and plans, and the alternatives to hot glue and when to use them would have resulted in less planes hitting the scrap pile as fast.
Monte.C
...
There were 1000 things I learned the hard way, but I don't know if I would change any of it. At the risk of sounding corny, the only right way to do it was to take the journey.
Oh - One thing. I should never have bought that expensive hot glue gun. A cheap one would be fine. Every other glue available beats hot glue for me.
Oh - One thing. I should never have bought that expensive hot glue gun. A cheap one would be fine. Every other glue available beats hot glue for me.
+1 on the simulator, +1 on the cheap hot glue gun.
There are 2 ways to go, build a plane from scratch or buy a plane, ready to fly. Each has pros and cons, there is no right answer, it’s what works for you. RTF is more expensive but it much faster. Building your own is cheaper but takes more time. For some cash is tight, for others, no free time.
Building your own will teach you the skills needed to repair your plane. You will cash, everyone does. Your plane will eventually need repairs.
If you have a local flying club, join it. They will be able to give you a tremendous amount of help. If there is a fly-in near you, go to it. If you can, come to a Flite Fest.
There are 2 ways to go, build a plane from scratch or buy a plane, ready to fly. Each has pros and cons, there is no right answer, it’s what works for you. RTF is more expensive but it much faster. Building your own is cheaper but takes more time. For some cash is tight, for others, no free time.
Building your own will teach you the skills needed to repair your plane. You will cash, everyone does. Your plane will eventually need repairs.
If you have a local flying club, join it. They will be able to give you a tremendous amount of help. If there is a fly-in near you, go to it. If you can, come to a Flite Fest.
FlamingRCAirplanes
Elite member
The most important thing I wish I had known was to make a trainer. The first plane was the ft speedster. No go No good.
But the FT TT was where it is at! And the FT commuter
But the FT TT was where it is at! And the FT commuter
Monte.C
...
Oh that's it! I had to learn that it's not anywhere near as precious as you think. Start with a gentle plane. Trainer doesn't mean it's kids' stuff, personally I enjoy gentle fliers as much as anything else. But your first plane will probably crash several times and be repaired several times until it's too wrinkled to be worth repairing when you've got another, different plane in your sights. Here it is:
It's just a toy you made from craft supplies. Every part of it is recoverable/reusable except for $2 worth of foamboard. If you have fun you'll build another. And then another. And...
Every new build for me is done better than the earlier ones AND every design is simpler. Go figure.
FlamingRCAirplanes
Elite member
And the ft commuter does not look bad! It is beautiful!
SSgt Duramax
Junior Member
Yeah, i think you were the one who turned me on to the white gorilla glue. That must have saved me 7 times on my A6m.There were 1000 things I learned the hard way, but I don't know if I would change any of it. At the risk of sounding corny, the only right way to do it was to take the journey.
Oh - One thing. I should never have bought that expensive hot glue gun. A cheap one would be fine. Every other glue available beats hot glue for me.
Matthewdupreez
Legendary member
I wish I had known that you shouldn't stress.... You will crash, just go and fly, have fun...
Don't procrastinate with the excuse... But I might crash!!
Don't procrastinate with the excuse... But I might crash!!
Monte.C
...
Hey! Sounds good.
ithink2020
Member
What Glue do you use/recommend?Every other glue available beats hot glue for me.
What is the difference between white gorilla glue and hot glue?
Crashing is Part of the Hobby. If you let it, learn to let the Crashing be part of your fun in the Hobby.
Find someone in your area to fly with (much more fun).
Listen to podcasts - the weekly/bi-weekly stories will help you come back to it
Honestly determine a budget. (my start was ~$20-35/mo) As stated by others; getting a simulator will save you 4x $ in planes you DON'T crash right away. Phoenix 6.0i (abandonware and Free) or Real Flight (current version, ~$100) + Transmitter.
The transmitter you need for the Hobby anyway so most transmitters at ~$120+ are good transmitters. the $50+ ones are great starters. I would spend less. (I did. it wasn't worth it)
If you want RTF - go with the AeroScout: it is just a smart start. (upgrade to a DX6e) it will get you in the air, and keep you flying. It is in the simulator, the 6E is 6 channel and will be all you need as you learn.
Glues /Adhesives -
Gorilla Glue is an expanding polyurethane product, Water activated, it's set time is longer than some. and it expands slightly, so pressure during the cure period (24hr) is recommended.
Hot Glue is a melted rubberized Thermoplastic. Quick working time 10-20 seconds, 2 minute finish. 2nd degree burn hot, and can be heavy.
Polyvinyl Acetate-PVA (white Glue is great on Paper products, it has a lot of moisture and a long set time. (24 hrs). Water proof when dry.
Aliphatic resin - Great for wood and paper products. Longer set time, (15m-1hr) 24 hr full cure
CA (superglue is CA)- Near instant set time, Seconds - full cure is an hour, Kicker speeds that 10x. it is not a gap filler, and it is brittle.
Foam Tack - A rubber Cement / contact Adhesive - This is foam Safe. Like all Rubber cements, Apply to both surfaces, let it tack (10-30s)and then press and hold for 15-25s and you can move on. The full cure is 24hrs. (just build a full day before you fly.)
Epoxy - 2 parts - A+B in the prescribed ratio. mix thoroughly. set your time... and go. Heat accelerates the set time. and the reaction happening is exothermic slightly so a big cup will set quicker than a shallow pan. It is strong, Durable and a little flexible. I find it messy, and a pain to clean up from.
Me - I build with DTFB and I use Hot Glue mostly. I have the scars to prove it.
Find someone in your area to fly with (much more fun).
Listen to podcasts - the weekly/bi-weekly stories will help you come back to it
Honestly determine a budget. (my start was ~$20-35/mo) As stated by others; getting a simulator will save you 4x $ in planes you DON'T crash right away. Phoenix 6.0i (abandonware and Free) or Real Flight (current version, ~$100) + Transmitter.
The transmitter you need for the Hobby anyway so most transmitters at ~$120+ are good transmitters. the $50+ ones are great starters. I would spend less. (I did. it wasn't worth it)
If you want RTF - go with the AeroScout: it is just a smart start. (upgrade to a DX6e) it will get you in the air, and keep you flying. It is in the simulator, the 6E is 6 channel and will be all you need as you learn.
Glues /Adhesives -
Gorilla Glue is an expanding polyurethane product, Water activated, it's set time is longer than some. and it expands slightly, so pressure during the cure period (24hr) is recommended.
Hot Glue is a melted rubberized Thermoplastic. Quick working time 10-20 seconds, 2 minute finish. 2nd degree burn hot, and can be heavy.
Polyvinyl Acetate-PVA (white Glue is great on Paper products, it has a lot of moisture and a long set time. (24 hrs). Water proof when dry.
Aliphatic resin - Great for wood and paper products. Longer set time, (15m-1hr) 24 hr full cure
CA (superglue is CA)- Near instant set time, Seconds - full cure is an hour, Kicker speeds that 10x. it is not a gap filler, and it is brittle.
Foam Tack - A rubber Cement / contact Adhesive - This is foam Safe. Like all Rubber cements, Apply to both surfaces, let it tack (10-30s)and then press and hold for 15-25s and you can move on. The full cure is 24hrs. (just build a full day before you fly.)
Epoxy - 2 parts - A+B in the prescribed ratio. mix thoroughly. set your time... and go. Heat accelerates the set time. and the reaction happening is exothermic slightly so a big cup will set quicker than a shallow pan. It is strong, Durable and a little flexible. I find it messy, and a pain to clean up from.
Me - I build with DTFB and I use Hot Glue mostly. I have the scars to prove it.
Monte.C
...
These are just my opinions, and I can't go too strongly in this direction. They don't really have cookies. It's all lies as a recruitment tactic. There are a lot of hot glue lovers, and more power to them. They're faster than I.
I don't like hot glue because it's a one shot deal. There's no room for adjustment, can't be as precise as I tend to try to be. And of course it's heavier. And I don't like getting burned.
There's a right glue for every purpose. Some of us love Beacon Foam-Tac or BSI Foam-Cure. The Beacon one is overpriced for me, considering they work the same and seem to have very similar properties. You completely control how much you use - which is very little - you have a working time of a short couple minutes tops, long enough to set things right but short enough that it'll seem like an instant bond once you learn how to use it. They both work like a rubber cement/contact cement. Foam-Cure is what I use most.
Before I discovered those (I'm not sure why these guys were trying to keep it a secret from me
) I learned about white GG. It's great, it cures hard, fills gaps real well. But it's a pretty long cure time and it foams/expands as it cures so you have to get real familiar with it to put it to best use. It might be best for a piece you want to set with weights on it to let it cure, then clean up the piece with a hobby blade and a sanding block after curing. You can use a drop of CA here & there to hold things in place while you're waiting for the GG to do what it does.I'm lately getting to know the clear GG, and I like it. I haven't really experienced any foaming/expansion yet. It takes double the cure time, maybe an hour. Still great for some things. Complete control over how much, positioning of pieces, etc.
I always have foam-safe CA within reach.
Mod Podge is cheaper than dirt, and it has some uses.
I think it's important to note: We don't need to use a 24 hour epoxy on a paper airplane.
F106DeltaDart
Elite member
I know this is a bit outside to normal realm around here, but I figured I'd share what the lessons that I wish I would have known entering in RC Helicopters..
- A quality model is worth the increased cost. Like most, I tried to start in CP helis with a cheap, used 450 flybarred clone helicopter. I spent more time and money then that model was ever worth trying to get it flying. Unlike airplanes, you can't just trim out a heli with poor components
- It's all in the setup! Take the time to learn how to mechanically setup and level out the swashplate and set up the tail rotor. A hastily setup model will never fly well. But if everything is centered, leveled, and balanced, helis generally fly quite well
- Quality equipment matters way more than in airplanes! Good servos and a good flybarless controller can make a world of difference in the handling qualities of a helicopter. If possible, reaching out to a local heli pilot or someone knowledgeable is a must to help balance that line of cost vs performance.
- If you are building a scale heli, ALWAYS test fly the mechanics before putting them in a fuselage. This isolates the expensive fuselage from any potential damages during flight controls tuning.
- Adhesives need to be tolerant of vibration. Normal epoxy or CA doesn't cut it for mounting wooden frames in a fiberglass fuselage. Hysol Aerospace grade epoxies tend to work well in this enviroment.
- A quality model is worth the increased cost. Like most, I tried to start in CP helis with a cheap, used 450 flybarred clone helicopter. I spent more time and money then that model was ever worth trying to get it flying. Unlike airplanes, you can't just trim out a heli with poor components
- It's all in the setup! Take the time to learn how to mechanically setup and level out the swashplate and set up the tail rotor. A hastily setup model will never fly well. But if everything is centered, leveled, and balanced, helis generally fly quite well
- Quality equipment matters way more than in airplanes! Good servos and a good flybarless controller can make a world of difference in the handling qualities of a helicopter. If possible, reaching out to a local heli pilot or someone knowledgeable is a must to help balance that line of cost vs performance.
- If you are building a scale heli, ALWAYS test fly the mechanics before putting them in a fuselage. This isolates the expensive fuselage from any potential damages during flight controls tuning.
- Adhesives need to be tolerant of vibration. Normal epoxy or CA doesn't cut it for mounting wooden frames in a fiberglass fuselage. Hysol Aerospace grade epoxies tend to work well in this enviroment.
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