chris398mx
Master member
Wow that is some crazy detail!!! mind sharing your CAD or STL files?
3D printing for the rest of us
- Thread starter buzzbomb
- Start date
That’s next week’s project actually! I’ve started watching the assembly vids already.
I just need to order my rails yet. It will be my fall/winter build project. Can't wait to have that tool in my arsenal. The SP0NZ Skunkwerks will be in full swing then!
I only have the 9 Cylinder posted so far (Legacy). But all my files can be found here...
https://www.thingiverse.com/sp0nz/designs
buzzbomb
I know nothing!
Brilliant! That's a glorious set of parts!https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?resources/p-38-printed-parts.151/
Ahem! I have designed a few things but this one takes the cake.
buzzbomb
I know nothing!
Nice!
buzzbomb
I know nothing!
Beautiful! Great prints all around!
OliverW
Legendary member
You should plan a build around some of those radial motor mounts!
"Corpse"
Legendary member
I saw the OG gremlins back there, can you print the frames out of delrin filament?
quorneng
Master member
chris398mx or anyone else.
Here are the STL files for the 9 cylinder as fitted to my AN2.
They were all printed using CURA 4.6 in PLA on my Anet A8 using a 0.4 mm nozzle and a wall thickness of 0.25 mm and a layer height of 0.15 or 0.1 mm as appropriate.
Each file will need to be orientated on the bed to suit printing but support is only required for 9cylCaseNose. To save weight I used no fill either.
You will need 18 off of Cylinder1b and 9 off of each Cylhead1b, PushRodBase, PushRodL and PushRodS. With the 2 parts of the crankcase and the exhaust ring giving a total of 57 parts.
I don't remember the print time but it was a good many hours and gluing it all together took some time too!
Have fun.
Here are the STL files for the 9 cylinder as fitted to my AN2.
They were all printed using CURA 4.6 in PLA on my Anet A8 using a 0.4 mm nozzle and a wall thickness of 0.25 mm and a layer height of 0.15 or 0.1 mm as appropriate.
Each file will need to be orientated on the bed to suit printing but support is only required for 9cylCaseNose. To save weight I used no fill either.
You will need 18 off of Cylinder1b and 9 off of each Cylhead1b, PushRodBase, PushRodL and PushRodS. With the 2 parts of the crankcase and the exhaust ring giving a total of 57 parts.
I don't remember the print time but it was a good many hours and gluing it all together took some time too!
Have fun.
buzzbomb
I know nothing!
Perhaps the coolest thing about 3D printing and FT style planes is doing repairs on the fly.
The last hard touch down tore off the landing skid, and peeled the front landing gear back on my Storch. There wasn't a lot left to glue to, to repair the bottom plate. 5 minutes in Tinkercad and here we go.
The holes on the side not only reduce weight, they allow for more surface to glue to. I don't think that landing gear will be peeling back again.
This is my Mustang. The tail has succumbed to hangar rash. I'd previously designed a tail support for another plane. All I had to do was print a couple and my tail is ninety degrees again.
Back to the Storch. The grass wrapped around the tail skid. That's why there was so much damage to the landing gear. I didn't design this one, just downloaded it. There's probably lots of better ways to repair a skid, but darn this was easy!
Here's the link for that one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1833405
I'm repairing planes to fly on Monday, hopefully. There's more to come.
The last hard touch down tore off the landing skid, and peeled the front landing gear back on my Storch. There wasn't a lot left to glue to, to repair the bottom plate. 5 minutes in Tinkercad and here we go.
The holes on the side not only reduce weight, they allow for more surface to glue to. I don't think that landing gear will be peeling back again.
This is my Mustang. The tail has succumbed to hangar rash. I'd previously designed a tail support for another plane. All I had to do was print a couple and my tail is ninety degrees again.
Back to the Storch. The grass wrapped around the tail skid. That's why there was so much damage to the landing gear. I didn't design this one, just downloaded it. There's probably lots of better ways to repair a skid, but darn this was easy!
Here's the link for that one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1833405
I'm repairing planes to fly on Monday, hopefully. There's more to come.
buzzbomb
I know nothing!
Then we've got the purely aesthetic. Here's my cockpit on my Spitfire:
Not looking good. However I made that plane before I had a 3D printer. So, nasty looking cockpit? Let's kick things up a notch.
That is one sexy piece of equipment! Here it is installed.
No way to argue with that! It's currently the best looking part of the plane. Here's the file: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3755549
Not looking good. However I made that plane before I had a 3D printer. So, nasty looking cockpit? Let's kick things up a notch.
That is one sexy piece of equipment! Here it is installed.
No way to argue with that! It's currently the best looking part of the plane. Here's the file: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3755549
buzzbomb
I know nothing!
Then you've got to print one of these. You don't know how loose those nuts are, until you've got a way to tighten them. I was pretty surprised.
I thought the tool was way too tall, so I dropped half of it below the build plate in Cura. Worked wonderfully. Here's the file: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3625842
I thought the tool was way too tall, so I dropped half of it below the build plate in Cura. Worked wonderfully. Here's the file: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3625842
I have a handful of things on thingiverse that have been designed as needed. My profile is@ https://www.thingiverse.com/litterbug/designs
Most of the things I have done using OpenSCAD and I have included the .scad files as well
Cheers!
LitterBug
Most of the things I have done using OpenSCAD and I have included the .scad files as well
Cheers!
LitterBug
mrjdstewart
Legendary member
my latest 3D design and print. rear portion of the tube took 21hrs.
still need to finish belly pod, sand down leading edges, wing tips, and add front wheels. running a 12 blade, 70mm EDF, 60A ESC on 4S-1300 (hopefully).
design needs some work but i'm gonna see what we can do with this one since i already printed it. thinking about calling it the "Mike Wazowski."
laters,
me
still need to finish belly pod, sand down leading edges, wing tips, and add front wheels. running a 12 blade, 70mm EDF, 60A ESC on 4S-1300 (hopefully).
design needs some work but i'm gonna see what we can do with this one since i already printed it. thinking about calling it the "Mike Wazowski."
laters,
me
Captain Video
Well-known member
This thread is really cool but I have a question.
I have an Ender 3 Pro.
Can I just use regular glass for the print bed or should it be tempered or something i have not considered?
I have been using the textured sticky Ender print surface but I hear glass works better.
Thoughts, Ideas?
Your input is greatly appreciated.
I have an Ender 3 Pro.
Can I just use regular glass for the print bed or should it be tempered or something i have not considered?
I have been using the textured sticky Ender print surface but I hear glass works better.
Thoughts, Ideas?
Your input is greatly appreciated.
I have been using PEI on my older printers and have started down the path of getting a PEI sheet for the Monoprice MP10. I've used glass, built-tak, blue tape, glue on tape, etc... and for me, PEI has worked the best. I finally was able to get replacement build plates for the MP10, and will rip the original build-tak tape off the original build plate and replace it with PEI. The original build-tak that was on my MP MiniV2 was actually TOO sticky. I did an extended print with PET-G, and could not get the tape off the print... Needless to say, ruined print, and ruined tape. LOL.
Cheers!
LB
buzzbomb
I know nothing!
Thanks! I especially like the foamboard hole reinforcers. I'll be making use of those!
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