Anybody else scratch building tonight?

MaxTheFliteFreak

Active member
Technichally not a scratch build, but a foam/balsa kit. I am dipping my toes into DLG gliders and bought this Big Vick 1 mter DLG from Hyperflight for around 400₪ or 70ish US dollars. The build was straight forward and pretty easy, yet it took around a month to complete as I only worked on it a little bit at a time. It only has rudder and elevator, which is a little too basic for me so I plan on adding flaperons in the future. Looking forward to the maiden!

Here is a log of pictures I took during the build:
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And the finished product.

Good day and happy flying!
 

checkerboardflyer

Well-known member
For ply to ply joints I like to use a bit of balsa triangle stock to give whatever glue you're using some actual surface area to bond to.

How To - Foam Board Triangle Stock
Every so often you need to have some triangle stock to reinforce something. It may be a landing gear plate, firewall, or tail surfaces. I have been using balsa triangle stock, but I found a way to make triangle stock using foam board. More tips on my blog: https://foamboardflyers.com

foamboard triangle stock how to.jpg
 

Off-topic jes

Elite member
do you htink itll fly wiht foamboard but without the paper? also what powwer setup? I would love to build this as somethign to bring with me to fly literrally everywhere!
Thank you all so much for the encouraging post. I think this will fly without the paper on the foam board. In fact, this didn’t even come with paper on the foam bored. This is just average airplane Depron it’s made for ultralight indoor flyers usually but if you build them up a little heavier, they fly
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around outside. I’m using this is the power system. My motor and battery are on the way.
 

Shurik-1960

Well-known member
A beautifully and neatly made model will always fly !!! I don't understand many who make crude models.I also make models from depron in size up to 1.5 meters. I want to make a model for flying in a 2-meter span this summer. Have a good flight .We are waiting for the video of the flyby.
 

mastermalpass

Elite member
Thought I’d share this with the FT group today. This is my first micro bipe View attachment 233386 View attachment 233387 View attachment 233388 View attachment 233389 should be getting the all the electronics for in about a month I’m going to use the horizon, hobby micro brick.

😯 A little Albatross... And it's beautifully modelled!

Can you do me a favour when you maiden it (which I am looking forward to the video of, of course)? Fly it straight and level a few times, but at various speeds and let me know how much the lift varies on those undercambered wings.

I'm doing an Albatross of my own and according to the blueprint, the real one had undercambered wings. But I find undercamber tends to make the lift really sensitive to changes in airspeed and I can't seem to trim out the pitch like I can with other airfoils. So I'm thinking I will clad over the undercamber with acetate sheet, which (with a lick of paint) will hide all the formers, mounts and wiring as well as reduce the lift sensitivity & induced drag. But if the undercamber turns out to make for a nice flyer, then I'll stay scale. :)
 

cyclone3350

Master member
Thank you all so much for the encouraging post. I think this will fly without the paper on the foam board. In fact, this didn’t even come with paper on the foam bored. This is just average airplane Depron it’s made for ultralight indoor flyers usually but if you build them up a little heavier, they fly View attachment 233393 View attachment 233394 View attachment 233395 View attachment 233396 View attachment 233397 View attachment 233398 around outside. I’m using this is the power system. My motor and battery are on the way.

Very nicely done. I made a micro Jenny and a Spad XIII using the same construction method and materials. They flew very well on a 3 channel set up. If U R using a 1s brushless motor, just keep it under 2 oz AUW & it should fly just fine.
 

Shurik-1960

Well-known member
My practice of manufacturing a profiled thin wing. 1. I cut out a profiled wing from foam-a master model. 2. I glue 2 blanks 2 mm thick on the master model for the load of bags with shot. 3. The glued wing is ground down to 2 mm, forming a wing profile. The last trick: in the center of the wing blank, I lay a double-sided tape inside - this is a flexible spar. The wing turns out to be profiled and strong at the break!!
 
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MaxTheFliteFreak

Active member
My new hobby is already 1 year old: I am converting Chinese throwing gliders into radio-controlled ones.I have 7 models in total. Here is an example. I want to create a theme for remaking into paws, freely floating and FPV.


Whether one admits it or not, everybody has at some stage modified and R/C-ified a cheap chinese chuck glider.