Anybody else scratch building tonight?

mastermalpass

Master member
Looks really good mate I like the idea! do you think it’s going to be strong enough? If you nose dive on landing looks like a pretty thin cross-section there I’m not sure tell me how it goes. I’d be interested in building something similar.

Thank you! I am pretty happy with the resulting appearance too. It’s strong enough to handle gusts and G forces, sure! Nose diving, no. The narrow fuse as you’ve spotted is also tightly packed - none of it is likely to flex on impact and so something will have to break. So my aim with this one is similar to my aim with most of my planes: try not to nose-dive into the ground! 😂

My comment earlier about cylindrical fuselages being durable in crashes is actually the point at which I realised you can design fuselages to be durable - I never expected my Bipes or Su-26 to handle impacts as well they do and so only recently thought; “hey, y’know, I whack these all the time and they never break, how have I managed that?”. Hell, the HalfPipe was designed specifically to take crashes and even then I was surprised to see it handle head-on bumps.
 

Shurik-1960

Well-known member
I think that there is an unfortunate design of the battery seat on the face - the first place of rupture with a more or less rigid landing. I see no point in making such a large cutout in the fuselage, weakening its design. It would be easier to make a hatch along the width of the battery, and side walls in the fuselage to hold the battery. On almost all of my models, I practice making a battery compartment to fit the size of the battery. I didn't see the point in covering the bottom of the wing. Sheathed with 3mm foam would be the most optimal from an engineering point of view, a few grams of weight would not harm the structure. This is purely my opinion based on the experience of gluing and using more than 100 models.An example is an easy and successful aerobatic 3D model of a Puff in a file. The cutout for the battery is made along the wing axis when installing the engine and regulator to accurately hit the recommended CG.
 

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Off-topic jes

Elite member
I’ve been building this little model currently I don’t know how it’s possible because the numbers don’t add up but when I put it on the scale it says it’s 0.76 g good enough for me I’m going to form the propeller tonight and hopefully take it out for a little flying tomorrow the model came out at just over a singular Gram so far it looks pretty good.
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dberg97

Active member
My neighbor provided an 80mm EDF and the rest of the electronics and told me to “build something with canards”. I settled on a Eurofighter Typhoon. It’s a FT Mater Series inspired hybrid with some 3D printed parts all of my own design. With a 6s 5000mAh battery it came in just under 3000g, but it flies beautifully.
 

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L Edge

Master member
My neighbor provided an 80mm EDF and the rest of the electronics and told me to “build something with canards”. I settled on a Eurofighter Typhoon. It’s a FT Mater Series inspired hybrid with some 3D printed parts all of my own design. With a 6s 5000mAh battery it came in just under 3000g, but it flies beautifully.
Any video?
 

skymaster

Elite member
My neighbor provided an 80mm EDF and the rest of the electronics and told me to “build something with canards”. I settled on a Eurofighter Typhoon. It’s a FT Mater Series inspired hybrid with some 3D printed parts all of my own design. With a 6s 5000mAh battery it came in just under 3000g, but it flies beautifully.
love it . could it be possible to round up the exhaust toward the inside
 

mastermalpass

Master member
I think that there is an unfortunate design of the battery seat on the face - the first place of rupture with a more or less rigid landing. I see no point in making such a large cutout in the fuselage, weakening its design. It would be easier to make a hatch along the width of the battery, and side walls in the fuselage to hold the battery. On almost all of my models, I practice making a battery compartment to fit the size of the battery. I didn't see the point in covering the bottom of the wing. Sheathed with 3mm foam would be the most optimal from an engineering point of view, a few grams of weight would not harm the structure. This is purely my opinion based on the experience of gluing and using more than 100 models.An example is an easy and successful aerobatic 3D model of a Puff in a file. The cutout for the battery is made along the wing axis when installing the engine and regulator to accurately hit the recommended CG.

I get where you’re coming from but I am glad I did decide to choose an approach where I lift away so much of the fuse.

Y’see, I went to maiden it again on Saturday and err… Turns out a 5x4 prop on 2S isn’t enough power to get it off the ground! 😂 I sanded the heck out of the battery cover to make more space inside so now I can fit my 800mAh 3S in there.

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I’ve also changed the 5x4 2-blade for a Dalprop 5x4.5 3-blade (what my racing quad uses). These changes do bring the weight up to a dodgy 365g though. Think I might have crammed too many bells and whistles into a 540mm wiingspan. 😅
 

skymaster

Elite member
Working on a custom version of the FT mini Arrow. 1m wingspan, blunt nose and fairings.
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It remains to cut and glue the stabilizers and place the electronics.
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And here is the design I made for it. Above the top view and below the bottom view
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you wouldn't happen to be the same guy as this fellow, cause you got the same idea. if you have access to a 3d printer you could print the center part from here.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3902539and the winglets only from this fellow dont forget to give some love.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3033273
 

Off-topic jes

Elite member
Tonight I’ve been working on this Tom thumb it’s originally a diesel power free flight model with one of those tiny little Cox engines on it. Unfortunately I do not own any of those so I’m going to do electric free flight with a timer and small battery. it’s coming along pretty good. I’m going to cover it tomorrow and I enjoyed the build.
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